Doctor Who
Bally, 1992Some have gotten their kits and I know there are a lot of you still waiting. The replacement motors have arrived and Mark will be working on kits over the coming weeks. He expects to be completed before Christmas. People will get them as he finishes them based on their order in the queue.
Thanks,
-Al-
Quoted from Jasonba:kit arrived today, Now to install it
Cool! Just remember, getting the gap between the head and the body of the Dalek right takes time. I used a Dremel to flatten the lip inside there. Original Dalek motors usually have about a 1/2" gap between them and it looks terrible. You can adjust this one but it takes time and patience. You might want to move the light bar a bit as well. You don't have to, I think I did on one of the ones I installed.
Started to put it together today. My main trouble at the moment is the shape of the internal moulding (on the dalek body) is preventing it from sitting inside it further. After some persevering I think I've got the gap not too bad although the head is sitting a little too far forward and when I sit it in place, the dome doesn't quite fit in it's correct position as the eye stick of the Dalek sticks out too far.
It looks to me like your Dalek is a little deformed. The side view shows it is pointing down a bit. This is what I was talking about that time changes these things. I would move the light board up a bit so that the clear dome is flush with the front. I don't want to tell you that you should use some heat to try and fix the body because it could make it worse. I have done that before though. Also, use a Dremel sanding tool and grind down the lip. You should be able to get the head and body closer to each other even if the body isn't bolted to the mech (with the top nut).
As I say in the Documentation - This part really takes time.
-Al-
Tricky. Since your Dalek base is warped, I'd suggest shimming the position of the Dalek base to make the top of the Dalek base level, and also to adjust the height of the top of the Dalek base. That should help you as you work to close the gap between the top of the Dalek base and the bottom of the Dalek dome. You need a little bit of gap between those 2 parts to avoid too much friction when the Dalek dome rotates.
Darn no email yet from him yet. Hoping I am one so I can have it in and working for the 50th anniversary special. I plan to do the advanced screening of the movie in the theater! Glad to see things moving. Thank you very much for the update!
Quoted from awarner:It looks to me like your Dalek is a little deformed. The side view shows it is pointing down a bit. This is what I was talking about that time changes these things. I would move the light board up a bit so that the clear dome is flush with the front. I don't want to tell you that you should use some heat to try and fix the body because it could make it worse. I have done that before though. Also, use a Dremel sanding tool and grind down the lip. You should be able to get the head and body closer to each other even if the body isn't bolted to the mech (with the top nut).
As I say in the Documentation - This part really takes time.
-Al-
Yeah I think it is a lot outta shape as I had quite a bit of trouble even getting it to this point. It doesn't even really fit the mounting bolts on the base plate, the back two are ok but the front two are way off. I got the front two in by loosening them so they could go in at an angle. It took a lot of jiggling and twisting to even get the the assembly inside the Dalek body.
In regard to the dome not fitting correctly, it's not the light board in the way, it's the eye pointer thingy of the Dalek sticks out too far and the dome actually overhangs the edge of the backbox. Earlier in the thread Shimoda posted about the same issue with his, I think he said he had to extend the hole that the motor fits into to make it fit.
I'll get the Dremel out and make a few adjustments and see if I can get it to fit better.
Thanks for the advice guys 
Wish I had decided that I could live with owning another Doctor Who earlier lol... I know my friend got his kit in the other week, but hasn't installed it yet. Will be totally worth the wait, I've seen these in person twice now.
Quoted from Jasonba:Yeah I think it is a lot outta shape as I had quite a bit of trouble even getting it to this point. It doesn't even really fit the mounting bolts on the base plate, the back two are ok but the front two are way off. I got the front two in by loosening them so they could go in at an angle. It took a lot of jiggling and twisting to even get the the assembly inside the Dalek body.
In regard to the dome not fitting correctly, it's not the light board in the way, it's the eye pointer thingy of the Dalek sticks out too far and the dome actually overhangs the edge of the backbox. Earlier in the thread Shimoda posted about the same issue with his, I think he said he had to extend the hole that the motor fits into to make it fit.
I'll get the Dremel out and make a few adjustments and see if I can get it to fit better.
Thanks for the advice guys
Mark Wrote: "Would it help to angle the mechanism (and shaft) backwards? Might help move the stalk backwards away from the dome. The base looks pretty melted."
Ok, I ground down the lip quite a bit to get a bit more clearance and that helped it fit the base plate a bit better. I have managed to get the head & body looking a bit more even (I think) with about the same gap, which I am ok with. Tilting the mechanism backwards only made the gap at the front worse as the body is already tilting forward.
I still have the issue of the stalk preventing the dome being installed correctly, so I am going to have to extend the hole that the motor sits in to be able to shift the whole thing backwards.
I decided to connect everything up and test it, so in test mode all was good but when I exited back to attract mode, the motor runs continuously, started a game and the motor still continues to run. Any suggestions on how I solve this?
Quoted from Jasonba:I decided to connect everything up and test it, so in test mode all was good but when I exited back to attract mode, the motor runs continuously, started a game and the motor still continues to run. Any suggestions on how I solve this?
We'd like to take this problem to e-mail, but, we'll update the forum with what the solution was. PM Sent.
Mark informed me last night that more kits are available. The lead time will be 6 weeks from when your order is received. I sent PMs to everyone I've had to turn down in the past couple of weeks. If anyone new is interested, send me a PM and I'll send the details.
Thanks,
Al
A little bit of bad news though. The price of the motors went up substantially. Any future purchases will be at a higher amount. This is the first price increase in 12 years! We tried to get a bulk discount, but it didn't help. If you got in at the old price, we are still honoring it. Thanks!
I fitted mine yesterday...it isnt difficult just time consuming. I found that by mounting the assembly to a scrap piece of wood makes it alot easier than trying to do it on the backbox or in your hands. I also drill a couple of holes through the scrap wood so I could get to the screws underneath that control the sideways position of the motor.
My dalek head is nearly square so I had no issue with this but I did need to dremel out some areas inside the body and also under the dome there is a "dimple" where the head bolt goes through.....dremel it off then the head sits down lower.
I found that the assembly sits further forward when mounted on the backbox so I moved it further back by enlarging the hole otherwise the dalek "eye stalk" sticking out the front will hit on the plastic cover
Quoted from Jasonba:I decided to connect everything up and test it, so in test mode all was good but when I exited back to attract mode, the motor runs continuously, started a game and the motor still continues to run. Any suggestions on how I solve this?
This was resolved via e-mails from Mark and Jasonba. The opto flag needed a little adjustment. All resolved.
Quoted from awarner:This was resolved via e-mails from Mark and Jasonba. The opto flag needed a little adjustment. All resolved.
Thanks for posting the update Al, I just need to mount it all properly now and I will post some pics when I'm done.
By the way Mark was very helpful and quick to respond.
Jason
I did not get an email, but I checked paypal and tracking says it will be here today!!!!!
I have to go pick up a crt for an arcade today, but very very excited to get it in before the 50th anniversary movie comes out this month. Thanks again and sorry if I was a pita, waiting is always the hardest part!
Quoted from cougtv:I did not get an email, but I checked paypal and tracking says it will be here today!!!!!
I have to go pick up a crt for an arcade today, but very very excited to get it in before the 50th anniversary movie comes out this month. Thanks again and sorry if I was a pita, waiting is always the hardest part!
You'll be happy when it's in. I still have the dome off and my cat loves to curl up with the Dalek...until multiball starts :^)
Hey Everyone! Good news and Bad news. The last 3 kits are being assembled and will be mailed. Well, the last 2 will be mailed. One kit remains unsold. I replied to a Pinside Mail requesting one, but as far as we can tell, he didn't purchase one. Anyway, one left and that's it for now. What that means is that we may make more in the future and we may not. This run was pretty big so it'll probably hold everyone for a while. PM me if you want the last kit!
Thanks to everyone that purchased and encouraged the project and we will be available for tech support if there are any problems.
-Al & Mark-
Quoted from awarner:One kit remains unsold. I replied to a Pinside Mail requesting one, but as far as we can tell, he didn't purchase one.
-Al & Mark-
think this is me you are talking about. I placed my order about an hour ago. hope that one was still available.
please let me know
Just finished putting it on. Went pretty smooth. Need to play with the base some more to get it aligned, but it works great.
BTW. The instructions mention that the fault count was reset by some mystery keystroke. The technique is documented in the manual. While in the test mode where you are staring at the number of wobble faults....hit the credit button. Resets back to zero. Page 1-19, 1-20
T. 13 Trap Door Test (T. 14 MPF test too)
The Dot Matrix display (left side) shows a side view of the trap door mechanism. The top line (right side)
identifies the two sub-tests. The second line indicates the current test mode. The third line shows the
"number of faults" or errors (from the feature audits). Note, pressing the credit button during this test
will clear the fault number (for easier detection of intermittent problems when cycled overnight). And
the fourth line is a status line, showing the current "moving" or "error" state.
faz
Quoted from pinball_faz:Just finished putting it on. Went pretty smooth. Need to play with the base some more to get it aligned, but it works great.
BTW. The instructions mention that the fault count was reset by some mystery keystroke. The technique is documented in the manual. While in the test mode where you are staring at the number of wobble faults....hit the credit button. Resets back to zero. Page 1-19, 1-20
T. 13 Trap Door Test (T. 14 MPF test too)
The Dot Matrix display (left side) shows a side view of the trap door mechanism. The top line (right side)
identifies the two sub-tests. The second line indicates the current test mode. The third line shows the
"number of faults" or errors (from the feature audits). Note, pressing the credit button during this test
will clear the fault number (for easier detection of intermittent problems when cycled overnight). And
the fourth line is a status line, showing the current "moving" or "error" state.
faz
That's cool! The manual is pretty old. Funny how it still works though. Probably written with Word 2000. The device was made when my friend Mark asked me what I wanted for my Birthday and I told him "Make the Dalek on my Dotor Who move." He started it and eventually bought a game to develop it with (they were still $700 games then).
Anyway, it looks like we're at the end of another run. I'll confirm and update this thread.
Good news for anyone wanting a kit. 10 more available and will ship before Christmas if ordered this week. Send me a PM. The price is going up by because of material increases. Also, the opto board has to be re-developed because the opto we've been using for 10+ years. Contact me now if interested.
Al
Hmmm... I believe I threw $1 on the table ... that was much quicker to the next run 
I'm glad Mark's able to keep this going.
I really like having Test 15 available.
-----
As far as the new opto board... is it just newer tech or have their been any improvements to help with the "exact center" issue? I don't expect it will, but need to ask.
Thanks,
faz
Yeah. I am curious about this update. Will I regret ordering the "original"?
Or should I have waited to get this new version?
The 'magic' is in the mechanism...which is very original and provides a great motion. Overshooting center is hardly a point of regret. If you shelled out money for the "wobble-head-on-a-stick" servo (other design)...you should feel regret for that
faz
Arrived back from Florida yesterday, and mine finally arrived on the door step upon us getting back to the house. Looking forward to putting this (and my Dr. Who) back together.
Quoted from awarner:Good news for anyone wanting a kit. 10 more available and will ship before Christmas if ordered this week. Send me a PM. The price is going up by because of material increases. Also, the opto board has to be re-developed because the opto we've been using for 10+ years. Contact me now if interested.
Al
Oh snap. This is really hard to pass on. PM me the new price so I can make a decision, lol.
Quoted from Frax:Oh snap. This is really hard to pass on. PM me the new price so I can make a decision, lol.
So far, Mark has been eating the cost of the motor upgrade. I think the price hasn't changed yet. He's out of upper arms and that's a machined part. He's making more of them for this run.
The head overshooting center isn't caused by the opto; it's because the mech has no braking designed into it. The original sample games are the same way. The opto used on the board is NLA and the replacement part he found needs changes to the circuit to make it work. The results will be exactly the same, but the board will cost more to produce. There is no advantage to the new part other than it'll work. I think he has everything except the top mount he's making now and motors for this run. We're over 200 units with zero returns and no reported failures.
It looks like the orders have stopped so this project is now shelved. If anyone is waiting for your device, don't worry, you'll get it. We're not going to take any new orders going forward. Will we bring it back? I'd say probably. I'm guessing that if we get 10 or more people who want one, that we would make them next year. The price will be higher.
You saw this...right: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-doctor-who-dalek-topper-motor-kit
faz
Quoted from KenEberhardt:Great mod!
Is this kit still being available somewhere?
Can't google my way to anyone selling
Sadly, no. There is a less expensive little mod that you can order but it is not really tied to the game the same way, and is highly DIY
Quoted from KenEberhardt:Thanks for quick reply - but very sad news
Any further info on the less expensive DIY mod? Better than the frozen Dalek I guess
Check Pinside shops, I believe it’s avaiLable in the market. The seller is in the UK. He does not really offer tons of support but it’s a fairly simple mod to install
Thanks guys - correct, in the shop: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1059-pinballtoys/00627-doctor-who-motorise-your-static-dalek-topper-dw-wobble-head-
The one based on flashers, not "the real thing" for £100... Hmmm, would rather have the real thing...
Sorry for reviving the thread making false hope 
If you want to change the look of your game ... add ColorDMD! What a huge difference! Much more than the topper (but I love my moving Dalek head too )
faz
Purchased the Dalek Assembly kit from Pinballtoys. Have to build some brackets and wire harness, but no biggie!! There was a kit on eBay, but it sold for around $360.00. The Pinballtoy's kit was $128.00, including shipping. Wondering what the difference is between the original and the Pinballtoys kit. Seems to me the Pinballtoy kit moves when the lights get triggered for the Dalek, verses a mode? All that is needed is some movement to make me happy!! Glad to see this forum get raised from the dead!! I'll give an update on the install.
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