(Topic ID: 135980)

Do your LED preferences change between game era?

By Glarrownage

8 years ago


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    #1 8 years ago

    Do you have a different bulb preferences across different generations of your games? For example, what is your go to GI bulb for an EM vs. Early solid state vs. a DMD/modern game? I'm curious what everyones "go to" bulb is for the backbox, inserts, and GI across different generations of games. Feel free to copy and paste the following and insert your LED bulb choices.

    Modern DMD:
    Backbox -
    GI -
    Inserts -

    Early Solid State:
    Backbox -
    GI -
    Inserts -

    EM:
    Backbox -
    GI -
    Inserts -

    #2 8 years ago

    Modern DMD:

    Backbox - Twin 2835 Frosted...whats in all new Sterns, although those are clear
    GI -Twin 2835 Frosted, Op-Max when I want brighter.
    Inserts - Twin 2835 Frosted

    Early Solid State:

    Backbox - 2 LED Clear or 1 SMD 5050 Frosted, when I want brighter
    GI - 2 LED Clear or 1 SMD 5050 Frosted, when I want brighter
    Inserts -2 LED Clear or 1 SMD 5050 Frosted, when I want brighter

    EM:

    Backbox - Retro 6mm Clear Warm White .....2 LED Frosted when I want brighter
    GI - Retro 6mm Clear Warm White .....2 LED Frosted when I want brighter
    Inserts -Retro 6mm Clear Warm White.....2 LED Frosted when I want brighter

    #3 8 years ago
    Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

    Modern DMD:
    Backbox - Twin 2835 Frosted...whats in all new Sterns, although those are clear
    GI -Twin 2835 Frosted, Op-Max when I want brighter.
    Inserts - Twin 2835 Frosted
    Early Solid State:
    Backbox - 2 LED Clear or 1 SMD 5050 Frosted, when I want brighter
    GI - 2 LED Clear or 1 SMD 5050 Frosted, when I want brighter
    Inserts -2 LED Clear or 1 SMD 5050 Frosted, when I want brighter
    EM:
    Backbox - Retro 6mm Clear Warm White .....2 LED Frosted when I want brighter
    GI - Retro 6mm Clear Warm White .....2 LED Frosted when I want brighter
    Inserts -Retro 6mm Clear Warm White.....2 LED Frosted when I want brighter

    I was hoping you would respond! Interesting that you put frosted in the inserts of modern DMDs. What is the reason for that? I see you prefer the look of all original in your EMs, I have a feeling that will be the popular opinion for that era.

    #4 8 years ago

    Many Inserts in DMD games get frosted or scratched. Diffusing the bulb, helps hide those minor scratches.

    The second reason for me is old eyes! Clear Lens hurts my eyes a bit more.

    But thats just my taste.

    #5 8 years ago
    Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

    Many Inserts in DMD games get frosted or scratched. Diffusing the bulb, helps hide those minor scratches.

    Great info! I've never ever thought to try this, very cool.

    #6 8 years ago

    I made the huge mistake of doing up my Eight Ball with all LEDs. It just didn't work for me. I finally just yanked them all about a week ago. Incandescents just look right in there. Some games just look a lot better with real lights.

    #7 8 years ago
    Quoted from DaveH:

    I made the huge mistake of doing up my Eight Ball with all LEDs. It just didn't work for me. I finally just yanked them all about a week ago. Incandescents just look right in there. Some games just look a lot better with real lights.

    Yeah, I totally respect that. Some games do, with the color scheme of Eight Ball, I think you are right about that one.

    #8 8 years ago

    What is the advantage in using clear bulbs over frosted in early SS games? Would you include System 11's in that category?

    #9 8 years ago

    Brightness, only.

    In a "relative" manner, brightness can go from an incandescent to 50% brighter, 75% brighter, 100%...etc.

    SS games are generally, lighter screened games, and one can use whatever brightness they wish, even mixing.

    I personally like the 2 LEDs in clear for many games....these were used in the original release of AC/DC.

    But depending on the artwork, any "opinion" can change.
    Many times, I tackle a game thinking I know what would look best, and I am wrong,
    Other times, all bulbs work well, from single LEDs, up, because other variables come into play.

    Ambient lighting, a person wanting to play in the dark, a family member sensitive to LEDs.

    Finding ones comfort zone is important.

    I see DMD done with singles, and EMs done with very bright bulbs.
    I may personally not chose to do it that way, but respect that there are many different opinions and taste,

    My X-Men, is filled with every type pf bulb, from every vendor.....a Test Game I set up. No complaints, like 12 different types.

    So, as the Op is asking, the answer is really different for every game, for every person, and then the bulb choice by vendor,
    Our 2 LED. has a similar output to PBL shorter, 3 LED. I chose to add this for the ability to add a lens to this brightness,

    This slide bar, and images, may help someone decide.

    http://www.cometpinball.com/category-s/1825.htm

    One good way is look at a game thats been done over with LEDs, see what you like, and use the same bulb.
    Not bright enough?, go one bulb brighter....too bright? go one lower....

    Lastly, for added "flavor" there are fluted and faceted bulbs, that produce a Starburst pattern of light.

    We also will be releasing a New Product soon, titled MATRIX that universally will allow a quick connect method of adding light anywhere,
    in strips, pads, post lights, and more.

    Basically any color, any brightness, anywhere in your game.

    At that point it becomes purely individual taste.

    #10 8 years ago

    I like the retro clear warm white in early EM and SS inserts. I think they look closest to incandescents with the brightness about equal to a 44.

    I don't like frosted because they look like a glowing orb under translucent inserts. The clears, having the thin LED, can almost pull off the look of an incandescent filament.

    #11 8 years ago
    Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

    We also will be releasing a New Product soon, titled MATRIX that universally will allow a quick connect method of adding light anywhere,
    in strips, pads, post lights, and more.
    Basically any color, any brightness, anywhere in your game.

    Sounds really cool. Can't wait to check it out!

    #12 8 years ago

    I have led's in all my machines but Elvis (even an old Bally 6803). The retro smokey bar feel of the game is just cooler to me.
    Here's a pic with my Rollergames for comparison:

    image.jpgimage.jpg

    #13 8 years ago

    For the most part, my starting bulb is a Warm White 2LED frosted. I will then change color, brightness, etc.. based on the location of the individual bulb if I don't like it.

    #14 8 years ago

    Certainly, not just era but each individual game needs special treatment for style and color of LED's, I find the Comet LED strips to be indispensable. Oh no, how did that pic get in there?

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    #15 8 years ago

    I'm surprised how many people use similar types of LEDs across multiple generations of games. Just the backbox alone I go to different styles of bulbs across all three era's. Early solid states with a mirrored backglass throw light differently than a translite and I find that it needs a little more power than the modern games. Where as I wouldn't even think to put colored bulbs in the backbox of an EM. So for me, its very specific to pinball generation. I'm surprised that's not the case for others.

    #16 8 years ago

    I use different styles in one backbox. That is where you really have to be particular about your bulb choice. Sometimes I even mix with incandescents, depending on the look.

    Here's a thread I wrote on Xenon when I converted her to LEDs. The only thing I've changed since then is I put Comet sunlight clears in the GI. I should make a new video.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-with-comet-leds-and-custom-upgrades

    #17 8 years ago

    Yup, When we really want to focus on the art, I also will use as many different bulbs as the look needs.
    Here is Star Wars, done by committee, total, 11 different bulbs including a couple incandescent,
    But one needs a mess of bulbs to do this, so often just 2 or 3 types are used. Note, Yoda is a frosted green 6mm Retro...weird.

    Star_Wars_before.jpgStar_Wars_before.jpg

    Star_Wars.jpgStar_Wars.jpg

    #18 8 years ago

    That is absolutely gorgeous. It looks like a completely different translite. You know you've done it right when it looks just as nice in photos as it does in person....cameras tend to pick up LEDs that are spotting.

    #19 8 years ago

    Thanks to be passed to the 4 guys that tried every bulb, until they were happy! It took a bit over 2 hours to settle into this.

    By using depth of field, this looks like 3D in person.

    The bulbs behind Star Wars, is less bright then the bulbs in the characters around, but actually lights brighter because of the thinner
    White letters in the print.

    Ships in the background barely seen, know light nicely in the distance.....too bright, and it loses its depth.

    Fun stuff, but I am getting Lazy now to do again....

    Art

    #20 8 years ago

    So I just finished upgrading my Getaway HSII pin to LED's using Comet's. I went with Natural while 2835 Frosted in the backglass. I thin using one color in the backglass gives a uniform look instead of trying to match colors behind the translite. I used clear lens sunshine bulbs (these are awesome) 2835's in my GI and color matched clear lens 2835's in my inserts. I think my machine came out really nice. I made a YouTube video showing the before and after. Let me know what you think!

    #21 8 years ago

    This is all subject to change but for me, my current go to is as follows:

    Modern DMD:
    Backbox - Cointaker Super Premium Non-Ghosting (colored)
    GI - Cointaker Super Premium Frosted (colored)
    Inserts - Cointaker Super Premium Non-Ghosting (color matching inserts)

    Early Solid State:
    Backbox - Trying to figure this out currently
    GI - Comet Sunlight
    Inserts - Cointaker Premium (color matched to inserts)

    EM:
    Backbox - Cointaker Retros
    GI - Cointaker Retros
    Inserts - Cointaker Retros

    #22 8 years ago
    Quoted from BrewersArcade:

    So I just finished upgrading my Getaway HSII pin to LED's using Comet's. I went with Natural while 2835 Frosted in the backglass. I thin using one color in the backglass gives a uniform look instead of trying to match colors behind the translite. I used clear lens sunshine bulbs (these are awesome) 2835's in my GI and color matched clear lens 2835's in my inserts. I think my machine came out really nice. I made a YouTube video showing the before and after. Let me know what you think!
    » YouTube video

    Great video! I wish more people posted pinball stuff more often on youtube. Very cool before and after. Straight cool white does look good in the backbox. Thanks for the detail on the LED choices!

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