Quoted from Blackbeard:If "works perfectly" means "jamming" a chunk of an exacto knife into the assembly and breaking it off to "fix" it, you've got a lot to learn. And your "ignoring" me screams lack of maturity and knowledge that you're giving lousy advice.
OP: Don't listen to Canea's "advice". This assembly and it's CORRECT fix will need to be done in a way that will allow you to power up the pin and test it once you've taken apart the assembly and cleaned it and/or added newer parts, etc. You cannot do this if you're cutting wires, resoldering to test.... then having to cut again, resolder.. etc. Just isn't plausible and is horrid advice.
Unless you wanna jam a piece of metal (ala Canea's approach) into the assembly that doesn't belong there to make it work, I'd suggest pulling out the playfield. Until you try it, you won't understand how much easier it is. I too was apprehensive in doing it. Glad I tried. It's sooo simple. Check out my link above. Same assembly... same position on pf.
I'm not sure you understood what Canea's problem was with the diverter. The problem he described was not with the mech itself, but he had slop in the diverter arm (on the ramp) due to wear. The hole in the arm was rounding out.
In lieu of replacing the arm (is this part even available?), what he did by jamming the exacto blade in is called "shimming" the arm. To me this is an acceptable repair. The arm could be welded or soldered, as another person did, which is also acceptable, but is more permanent and would need to be removed and cleaned up if a replacement part becomes available.
I rebuilt my diverter mech and it works fine. However, the hole in the diverter arm is out of round like Canea's which allows about 1/2" of play. I'm going to try Canea's method to shim the arm.