Looking to buy a nice mousin' if anyone wants to sell. Also I have a nice wh20 and flintstones I'd trade.

Good question. I'd like to know the same.

Price check?

Super cool pemberton did that. Really been enjoying his designs. Riverboat, mousin, some of the best.

Jon you should start a new thread on redoing the decals! I love those kinda threads.

Jon

If you start a thread and label it something like "mousin cab restoration" you'll get guys posting that do this kinda work.

Here on this thread you won't get that kinda exposure.

That wood looks in good shape.

Check your manual for that diverter. I'm wondering if it uses that plastic "cam" piece that some others use. If so, it's time to get a new one. It's like a $6 part.

Edit: I checked mousin manual. Looks the same as police force's diverter mech.

This is the likely suspect: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8090

You'll need to pull up your playfield and pull the assembly out to inspect. Likely this cam needs replacing and or the spring that is attached to the cam needs tightening. Easy fixes.

First try cleaning the cam and associated parts. They'll probably be some oil grease and goop in there. Clean it off well. Add a touch of Teflon grease/oil. I used bike chain Teflon oil to my new cam. Fixed my police force diverter (same as mousin).

If that doesn't work, order a new cam, grease it with a drop of Teflon, and reinstall.

Check out this video too:

shows the assembly, etc.

Sorry Canea. I completely disagree with cutting wires here.

I had to pull my police force pf to access the mech. Here is a great link showing how:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/police-force-diverter-diagnosis

Pulling the pf really isn't a big deal, and there is a good amount of extra slack to the wiring harness to be able to lean the playfield against the side of the cab.

Don't start cutting wires, etc.. Pull the playfield. Remember, that you can't easily test the mech if you've cut wires!!!! Pulling the pf will allow you to test things AFTER you've made your repairs, as pf is still wired
If you've cut the wires, you now have to rewire/resolder things JUST to test. AND you may have not gotten the assembly fixed yet. (now you gotta cut wires again).

Moral of the story: don't cut wires. Pull pf.

Says the guy with a mech that still isn't working correctly.

Takes me literally 15 seconds to pull a system 11 pf and less time to put it back in place. You can't say the same

Cutting wires seems so drastic. And you cannot test with cut wires.

And you can test the mech all you want with your fingers, but as soon as it's powered up your results may vary. Been there done that.

If "works perfectly" means "jamming" a chunk of an exacto knife into the assembly and breaking it off to "fix" it, you've got a lot to learn. And your "ignoring" me screams lack of maturity and knowledge that you're giving lousy advice.

OP: Don't listen to Canea's "advice". This assembly and it's CORRECT fix will need to be done in a way that will allow you to power up the pin and test it once you've taken apart the assembly and cleaned it and/or added newer parts, etc. You cannot do this if you're cutting wires, resoldering to test.... then having to cut again, resolder.. etc. Just isn't plausible and is horrid advice.

Unless you wanna jam a piece of metal (ala Canea's approach) into the assembly that doesn't belong there to make it work, I'd suggest pulling out the playfield. Until you try it, you won't understand how much easier it is. I too was apprehensive in doing it. Glad I tried. It's sooo simple. Check out my link above. Same assembly... same position on pf.

Sweet video. Thanks for posting.

I've anyone is selling I've been looking for awhile!

Cmon. Someone sell!

Get in line

Here mousey mousey mousey. Blackbeard is looking for ya!

WTB!

Well I'm finally in!

Have a question regarding the shop/breakdown on this game. What's the scoop here? Hard? Easy? Some ramps look like their wiring will be tough to route back down into the pf upon reassembly.

Just wondering what everyone's 2 cents is on the shop out

I guess I'd like a starting point for the ramps. Like which ramp should be taken out first .. it's kinda hard to tell. I'm thinking the left side ramp

Right. I know about undoing connectors, but it seems like when putting ramps back on, the connectors will be difficult to weave back down under other ramps and then through the pf.

Pf is full Mylar which isn't bubbled, so not sure I want to risk pulling it. I'd like to clean the dirt lines on the perimeter of the Mylar though. Any thoughts on best way?

Super cool pin. Nothing beats the uniqueness of system 11 stuff.

So a couple questions for the experienced club members:

1. That back hole shot is tough to make. I think my flippers are strong enough, but that perhaps my back legs are too high. Thoughts? Anyone else have trouble with getting the power to make the shot? I'd say like it's 50% makeable, and just barely limps in.

2. Anyone remove mylar? Half tempted for the sole reason being the grime edge of the current mylar. The mylar on now is in great shape with very little bubbling.. but I hate that grime/dirt edge. Risk vs. reward. Anyone freeze it off without art pull?

Fun pin so far.

I'm debating doing it myself, as I've pulled mylar before, or having my guy do it who touches up and clears pfs. I just hate that nasty dirt edge mylar has.

My left side ramp wiggles too around the pops area as there is nothing really supporting it. I think it's just the way it's designed.

Also, where both ramps feed into the inlanes, they're just kinda sitting on the sling plastics. Is this correct? Seems like the designers should've clamped these ramps down better.

Cool. Was wondering if I was missing something.

And there is nothing supporting the ramp above the pop cap either?

ok. Mine is the same.

It's interesting because my eatpm has a ramp that kinda is wobbly too. Same era and manufacturer. Maybe they wanted some play in the ramps to prevent cracks? idk..

No sounds at power up. That's normal. Not even a knocker.

Check settings on the lockout having to do with the center drop target visor. That's what controls kickout.

Congrats!! Pics!!

Comet LEDs!

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

Your diverter isn't working correctly. It's a common issue on diverters that use the plastic cam. Police force has same issue. I believe if you read through this thread a few pages back (SEE PAGE 4 of this thread), you'll see where I gave instruction on fixing the issue. It's the same assembly as used in police force and will require you to pull out the pf. It's super easy to fix though, and a new cam is readily available.

The upper gate should activate when the ball runs the outter left orbit. It should open to allow the ball to travel to the right inlane. If it's not opening, report back and we'll fix it!

Also please read my fix here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/police-force-diverter-diagnosis
it's for the same assembly.

This is correct ^

Guys: I just ledded out my mousin, EXCEPT for the flashers (89s and 906s). I'm now not liking the clash between the incandescent flashers and the gorgeous comet leds everywhere else.

Has anyone ledded a mousin around's flashers without having to modify resistors, etc? I'd rather not have to cut off parts just to led flashers.

Anyone?

Thanks Woody.

Some system 11s need modifications done to the to allow for the use of flashers. However, I've read some do not.

This is one pin that really looks amazing with leds. Well, I'd say that about any pin.. if done right.

Pm sent on decals

One popped up on here for 2500 I think in Ohio.

Didn't come with decals, new displays or ball eater though.

no

I know it's off on a tangent, but any love from you guys for Road Kings?

I've had it months now and cannot stop playing it. I've owned most system 11s and RK is freakin awesome. It gets ZERO love.