Anyone one have a spare pf in “decent” or better condition they are looking to sell?

I’d hate to be that guy, but did you check the manual? Page 2-26 shows which columns of the lamp matrix those go to. Check out each lamp in that column, and you should find the one missing wires.

So who outbid me for that populated pf on eBay?

I need a back panel if anyone has an extra. Mine is planked pretty bad.

Not really that tough (but pricey): ebay.com link: itm

Just the bracket can be 3d printed here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/FK8SWFXJB/wico-15-988200-u-ball-eater-bracket-u?optionId=82941984&li=shops

They ship flat (hence the expensive shipping costs). Not sure about thickness, but I could measure with calipers tomorrow.

Can someone check the back box and see if the back of it sits flush with the lower cab? I’m repairing the previous “repairs” performed in my machine, and want to make sure I get the fit up correct.

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Thanks! I’ll roughly match the overhang of my other pins (less than 1/8”). Does the inside bottom of the back box have these brackets, or was this a “repair”?

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I’m trying to take pics as I go. Fixing the bottom of the back box doesn’t seem as challenging as the lower cab. Right now I am gluing/clamping some questionable/delaminating plys at the bottom corner. Once that’s dry and clamps are off, I will confirm the measurements of the bottom panel. Looks to be 27-3/16 x 6-1/2.

I’m not trusting the layout of the bottom panel I ripped off, so I’ll template the holes from the brackets and hinges themselves. Once all that’s done, I’ll glue/nail in place. There as some hideous screw holes on the outside of the cab from the previous repair, so I plan to drill those larger and glue some dowels in. That not only fills the holes but strengthens the joint.

How many separate GI strings are on the PF? It seems like there are at least a few strings, but the manual only has one GI relay for the PF listed (controlled by Q9)?

It came out great! The only spot that didn't come out great is the big opening where all the wires pass through. I cut that with a jig saw, and no matter what I do with straight edges, that damn blade wanders on me! It was actually a pretty simple repair.

The last pic I have on my laptop is the collar that head sits on, just prior to glue up. I'll have to check my phone to see what else is on there...

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Can someone fill me in one a couple items in the code? I was causally playing a lot of Mousin and sort of just zoned out. The games started to just blend together, I locked what I though was the second ball (the other trap was down already) but instead of starting multi ball, the gi dimmed and played a call out “hey over here” and released a ball from the already down trap. Single ball play continued until I locked that ball. I was in a single player game. Was that ball left over from a previous game? I though the balls got dumped out at the end of the game.

Second question, what does spelling million do and how to light the million letter arrows at the ramps?

Ok, based on the above I must have been starting my games before it got around to dumping the ball.

As for the millions, once the arrows are lit, and the ramp gives you a “millions” letter, do they ramps stay lit for more letters? Or do you need to drop the three center targets again to relight the ramps?

To each their own, but I am surprised yours is so tough. Mine has no center pin and the smaller, regular sized, flippers and the balls still stay in play forever.

Since this board is basically just holding the switches, the diodes could be moved right to switch lugs, and the board could be replaced with a 3d printed bracket.

Any chance there is an adjustment to not lock the ball?

Mousin killed it at Pintastic.

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