Mousin' Around!
Bally, 1989
Whirlwind
Williams, 1990The pop bumper skirt and body are white. I want to change them to yellow.
I looked at vid’s pop bumper rebuild guide.
Can I just unscrew the body and replace or is there no other way aside from cutting the wire leads, replace, resolder, etc...?
Quoted from Cmjb13:The pop bumper skirt and body are white. I want to change them to yellow.
I looked at vid’s pop bumper rebuild guide.
Can I just unscrew the body and replace or is there no other way aside from cutting the wire leads, replace, resolder, etc...?
I don't know of any other way. It seems like a lot but once you've done it you'll realize it's not so bad.
Today I’m cleaning the left plastic ramp.
I highly recommend Meguiar’s PlastX.
The bottom of the ramps has a blue framed plastic shield. Behind it on the right is an angled plastic piece. The left has some sort of odd metal bracket.
Can anyone confirm if the plastic ramp is supposed to be on just the right side and the left metal piece is normal?
Thanks
309695C2-0910-40E5-B8E9-039C51F5C019 (resized).jpegBC595403-40A2-461C-9A5B-B7FE950C71D9 (resized).jpegYeah, it seems crazy to have to take the whole damn thing apart to change the skirt, but that's what it takes. I did a pop on my Whirlwind a couple weeks ago, it wasn't real fun, but it wasn't terrible. I was lucky though because the bumper was midfield with nothing over it. I only took off as many parts as I needed to, and I actually used blue painters tape to keep as much of the under-playfield bits in place as I could.
I'd throw a towel down in the bottom of the cab if I were you. There are some tiny washers that can fall out from the bottom once you start unscrewing things, and they can get lost easy.
Quoted from DakotaMike:Yeah, it seems crazy to have to take the whole damn thing apart to change the skirt, but that's what it takes. I did a pop on my Whirlwind a couple weeks ago, it wasn't real fun, but it wasn't terrible. I was lucky though because the bumper was midfield with nothing over it. I only took off as many parts as I needed to, and I actually used blue painters tape to keep as much of the under-playfield bits in place as I could.
I'd throw a towel down in the bottom of the cab if I were you. There are some tiny washers that can fall out from the bottom once you start unscrewing things, and they can get lost easy.
It seems like too much work just to change the skirt.
According to the manual, the bumper base and body were white, while the skirt was yellow. I’ll likely just change the bumper caps to yellow.
Quoted from Cmjb13:It seems like too much work just to change the skirt.
According to the manual, the bumper base and body were white, while the skirt was yellow. I’ll likely just change the bumper caps to yellow.
Yeah, I don't blame you. The skirts were chipped to heck on my Mousin, but they still worked just fine, so I lived with them. Since my game was a beater, and since the ramps seemed like a pain to remove, it wasn't worth changing them for me.
I took another look at the battery holder. It looks like one of the battery holder terminals is corroded, so looks like a replacement may be in order.
Would this replacement work?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RBH073
Would I have to solder the wires from the new unit to the board or can leave the black wires on the board alone and somehow solder the black wires to the new battery holder wires?
Thanks.
battery_holder2 (resized).JPGboard (resized).JPGQuoted from Cmjb13:I took another look at the battery holder. It looks like one of the battery holder terminals is corroded, so looks like a replacement may be in order.
Would this replacement work?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RBH073
Would I have to solder the wires from the new unit to the board or can leave the black wires on the board alone and somehow solder the black wires to the new battery holder wires?
Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Yes, the battery holder linked will work. You do not need to remove the connections from the board. Just cut that off at the old battery holder, and attach to the wire on the new holder (observing +/-). You'll probably end up with more wire length than you need, but it shouldn't be an issue.
Quoted from djblouw:Yes, the battery holder linked will work. You do not need to remove the connections from the board. Just cut that off at the old battery holder, and attach to the wire on the new holder (observing +/-). You'll probably end up with more wire length than you need, but it shouldn't be an issue.
Can I use quick disconnects on the wires instead of soldering?
Also, does the pictures of the board and battery holder indicate which direction the batteries should be installed on the existing holder.
I confirmed from the battery holder manufacturer that there are markings.
Quoted from Cmjb13:Can I use quick disconnects on the wires instead of soldering?
Yes you can.
Quoted from Cmjb13:Also, does the pictures of the board and battery holder indicate which direction the batteries should be installed on the existing holder.
I confirmed from the battery holder manufacturer that there are markings.
I don't see any markings. But based on your picture, with the Positive and Negative, you can see how the batteries should be put in. The one on the far right (in the picture) should have the flat end of the battery pointing up. then alternate the orientation for the next one, and then again after that.
But if I were you, I'd replace that one so you don't have to worry about it anymore.
Quoted from djblouw:Yes you can.
I don't see any markings. But based on your picture, with the Positive and Negative, you can see how the batteries should be put in. The one on the far right (in the picture) should have the flat end of the battery pointing up. then alternate the orientation for the next one, and then again after that.
But if I were you, I'd replace that one so you don't have to worry about it anymore.
Thanks for the information.
Am I correct in saying that I can power on the machine without the batteries installed, but I would have to set the settings for the machine each time and would lose the high scores?
Quoted from Cmjb13:Thanks for the information.
Am I correct in saying that I can power on the machine without the batteries installed, but I would have to set the settings for the machine each time and would lose the high scores?
Yes, that is correct. It will revert back to credit play, which means you'll have to insert coins, or trip the coin switch, to get credits in order to start the game. And all of the settings/scores will be erased each time.
Quoted from Cmjb13:Just got to replacing the lights.
The entire top backbox row top lights are out.
The 5 million top light was out, but a forceful wiggle got it working
I don’t see any broken traces on the top backbox row
Any ideas?
[quoted image]
What are you wiggling? Burned up GI connectors and pins is extremely common on system 11 games. They usually need repinned and replaced.
Quoted from grantopia:What are you wiggling? Burned up GI connectors and pins is extremely common on system 11 games. They usually need repinned and replaced.
The 5 million light was not lighting.
I wiggled the bulb while it was in the socket and it now lights. I had a similar issue with the Diner backbox
I traced the backbox wiring and I don’t see any burnt connections or loose wiring.
Is there a particular wire that controls just the top row of lights?
Could it possibly be a blown fuse?
Quoted from Cmjb13:The 5 million light was not lighting.
I wiggled the bulb while it was in the socket and it now lights. I had a similar issue with the Diner backbox
I traced the backbox wiring and I don’t see any burnt connections or loose wiring.
Is there a particular wire that controls just the top row of lights?
Could it possibly be a blown fuse?
Not a fuse. If you had a blown fuse it would never work, along with several other things. Sounds like you have a dirty or corroded lamp holder, super common. Sometimes all it takes is wiggling the thing around, maybe you dislodged a bit of dirt or rust. This tool is handy, chuck it in a drill and clean all the sockets when you shop the game out.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=lamp+cleaning
If that doesn't work you can sometimes fix the socket by bridging the base and the tab with some solder, search lamp socket repair or something.
Lastly, you could just replace the lamp socket.
Good luck!
I took another look tonight. The sockets were pretty clean. I noticed that the corner wire going to the top row was slightly off. A simple touch and it was totally separated.
A little bit of solder and the lights work!
186C437B-B541-4A7C-9B77-F0646D7C2DB8 (resized).jpeg3A8345B6-1BC9-4444-A5FC-FB060FF39991 (resized).jpegQuoted from Cmjb13:I took another look tonight. The sockets were pretty clean. I noticed that the corner wire going to the top row was slightly off. A simple touch and it was totally separated.
A little bit of solder and the lights work![quoted image][quoted image]
These type's of problems makes this hobby fun.
Rewarding to find the problems.
So I received the yellow pop bumper caps, but they don't fit. They don't fit at all and even if they did, the screwholes don't match (They are too far inward.)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8254-16
This is what was on the machine and does fit.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=a-3713-35
I'm thinking maybe it's possible the bumpers were replaced entirely at some point?
Quoted from Cmjb13:So I received the yellow pop bumper caps, but they don't fit. They don't fit at all and even if they did, the screwholes don't match (They are too far inward.)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8254-16
This is what was on the machine and does fit.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=a-3713-35
I'm thinking maybe it's possible the bumpers were replaced entirely at some point?
Must be, I have those exact clear yellow bumper caps on my game.
Hi All, I have a new to me Mousin Around and its in pretty good shape and all there. Pretty rad theme really from what I can tell so far. All original except a few LEDs added from previous owner. I was chasing a few switch error issues today and the errors still show a "diverter malfunction" along w switch 49 error. On coil test the diverter fires fine, but during a game Im not sure what the proper sequence is for when it activates during a game. (what triggers the diverter , switch, combination of switches?). Mine currently rests against the back of the playfield (not diverting)...it doesnt seem to move during a game. Any obvious places to start investigating would be appreciated. Just learning this machine thanks.
Quoted from BCpinhead:Hi All, I have a new to me Mousin Around and its in pretty good shape and all there. Pretty rad theme really from what I can tell so far. All original except a few LEDs added from previous owner. I was chasing a few switch error issues today and the errors still show a "diverter malfunction" along w switch 49 error. On coil test the diverter fires fine, but during a game Im not sure what the proper sequence is for when it activates during a game. (what triggers the diverter , switch, combination of switches?). Mine currently rests against the back of the playfield (not diverting)...it doesnt seem to move during a game. Any obvious places to start investigating would be appreciated. Just learning this machine thanks.
Can't speak to the wiring, but the mouse-hole diverter should be swung out and blocking the entrance to the mouse hole at the start of a game. That should be the normal default position. Then, once you collect all the "Cheese" letters, the diverter will open to allow access to the mouse hole. It will also open for jackpots and such during multi-ball.
Thank you Dakota Mike!! That really helps me as a starting point. I’ll go back and check fuses and wiring.
I’m reassembly the ramps after cleaning them. I have 2 of these brackets and I believe they go under the blue plastic square pieces near the flippers.
I’m not sure which one goes where and on which side.
Much appreciate any help
44B46243-460C-427A-AEAB-0713B6FAC219 (resized).jpeg8071A339-AD23-4ADE-9654-076AAC0BDB8D (resized).jpegQuoted from TractorDoc:I keep forgetting to "officially" join the club -- time to remedy that!
[quoted image] [quoted image]
Love the ramps on this game and I like cheese in general. . . . . . very happy to have it in the collection.
Decals and Cab look very nice. I love the left orbit shot myself, feels great when you hit it and the mouse yells "geronimoooooo!". The Mouse Hole shot is pretty nice too.
I noticed that after changing the playfield insert lights that they flicker badly.
I see there is an LED adapter kit, but is only compatible with machines made up to 1985?
Is there one made for Mousin that will work?
Sadly leaving the club. I wish I had room (and $$) for all of them!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/99696
Quoted from Cmjb13:I noticed that after changing the playfield insert lights that they flicker badly.
I see there is an LED adapter kit, but is only compatible with machines made up to 1985?
Is there one made for Mousin that will work?
I guess you need non-ghosting LEDs?
Quoted from DakotaMike:I guess you need non-ghosting LEDs?
I used non-ghosting LED's though I suspect the flickering would be just as bad with regular LED's. I'm not a pinball expert by any means, but if I'm noticing the flickering, it must be pretty bad. My Diner has the same non-ghosting LED's installed and I really don't notice any flickering. It's possible the flickering is worse on certain System 11's than others.
I did some digging and found a great board that eliminates the flickering right out of the box (though it can be tweaked with software). I can't recommend this board enough.
Quoted from Cmjb13:I used non-ghosting LED's though I suspect the flickering would be just as bad with regular LED's. I'm not a pinball expert by any means, but if I'm noticing the flickering, it must be pretty bad. My Diner has the same non-ghosting LED's installed and I really don't notice any flickering. It's possible the flickering is worse on certain System 11's than others.
I did some digging and found a great board that eliminates the flickering right out of the box (though it can be tweaked with software). I can't recommend this board enough.
http://www.ledocd.com/
I have the same board from Herg in my Mousin' Around.
It works flawlessly.
Quoted from Cmjb13:I’m reassembly the ramps after cleaning them. I have 2 of these brackets and I believe they go under the blue plastic square pieces near the flippers.
I’m not sure which one goes where and on which side.
Much appreciate any help
[quoted image][quoted image]
One of those goes on the end of each inlane ramp such that it rests against the post on the slingshot:
IMG_20200722_110918 (resized).jpgDoes anybody have any pictures of the center ramp switch bracket and the metal vertical ramp at the entrance? With measurements, maybe? I'm starting to think that I'm just going to have to make my own if I ever want to get my game fully operational.
Quoted from mystman12:One of those goes on the end of each inlane ramp such that it rests against the post on the slingshot:[quoted image]
Much obliged
Quoted from mystman12:Does anybody have any pictures of the center ramp switch bracket and the metal vertical ramp at the entrance? With measurements, maybe? I'm starting to think that I'm just going to have to make my own if I ever want to get my game fully operational.
Maybe this will help:
Quoted from Sonic:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-club-members-only/page/43#post-5772230
We've added to our lineup up MRS for ramps! Alongside the universal ramp MRS and the custom IJ ramp MRS shown above - click the link above to see the latest custom ramp MRS for Taxi!! You'll see it's a similar solution to IJ. Now available as a set for $50 plus shipping.
Matt & Dan
M&M Creations
What are the common settings for Mousin Around in tournaments? I assume no extra balls, what else?
I'd like to set up my game a little more challenging so as not to cheat myself with home settings that are sometimes too liberal.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:What are the common settings for Mousin Around in tournaments? I assume no extra balls, what else?
I'd like to set up my game a little more challenging so as not to cheat myself with home settings that are sometimes too liberal.
I think there is an unofficial tournament ROM floating around.
There are roms that remove the center ramp exploit. I just set mine to Hard and that keeps my scores down. You could set the Kick Back (off at the start of every ball) and Center Ramp (Up when locked and at the start of every ball with no target memeory) to Extra Hard to further your experience.
Settings (resized).png
Does anyone have a picture of under the apron and of the inlane guide/plastic setup? Picked up a mousin as a working project but missing few parts. Just want to make sure I order the correct parts and install correctly.
15962548091107330448085860482334 (resized).jpgIMG_20200729_204419655 (resized).jpgNOW SOLD - off to CA, USA
I sell the repro and modded versions of the ball eater brackets but do have 1 x NOS Ball Eater Assembly with the screws for $150AUD + postage
send a pm if interested
have some other rare things on my thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/latest-pinball-parts-mods-and-shirts-by-swinks/page/2#post-5775058
Hello! I just picked up a really really nice Mousin’ Around. Cabinet is bright with no fade and the playfield has virtually no wear. I’d never played it before I brought it home and, after half a dozen plays, I have to say I’m really impressed! Can’t wait to play it and learn the game more.
Quick question - Does anyone know if a replacement diverter is available for purchase anywhere? Mine works but it is a bit worn. I wouldn’t mind popping in a new one.
Thanks and I look forward to following the thread!
43F49B2C-D7BB-49B3-B2D1-CE2EC0F648C1 (resized).jpeg525918EF-B161-4AD6-8F37-6EBB3C99AB19 (resized).jpegQuoted from Krupps4:Hello! I just picked up a really really nice Mousin’ Around. Cabinet is bright with no fade and the playfield has virtually no wear. I’d never played it before I brought it home and, after half a dozen plays, I have to say I’m really impressed! Can’t wait to play it and learn the game more.
Quick question - Does anyone know if a replacement diverter is available for purchase anywhere? Mine works but it is a bit worn. I wouldn’t mind popping in a new one.
Thanks and I look forward to following the thread!
[quoted image][quoted image]
I disassembled and cleaned my diverter thoroughly when I bought my mousin’ and afterwards it has been flawless. There is a plastic “cog” that can get gummed up if someone put a lubricant on it. That could also be part of the problem but fixable after a good cleaning.
The shooter rod feels weaker than my Diner. Just feels like it doesn’t have much power
Would I need just a spring replacement to make it stronger?
Quoted from Cmjb13:The shooter rod feels weaker than my Diner. Just feels like it doesn’t have much power
Would I need just a spring replacement to make it stronger?
Yeah, it's mechanical so probably needs to be taken apart, cleaned, and springs replaced. PBResource has shooter asm parts for sale.
Quoted from swinks:I sell the repro and modded versions of the ball eater brackets but do have 1 x NOS Ball Eater Assembly with the screws for $150AUD + postage
send a pm if interested
have some other rare things on my thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/latest-pinball-parts-mods-and-shirts-by-swinks/page/2#post-5775058
[quoted image][quoted image]
PM Sent!
Still looking for a Swoosh ramp Ball gate with the cheese sticker on it on the upper right ramp. Got a Spare?? Please Pm me.
Thanks
Eric
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Long Valley, NJ
. . . very happy to have it in the collection.