Hi!
Does anyone know where to buy the cherry switches for the brainbug mech? The ones registering up/down position, I cant seem to find it anywhere. In the manual it says: Limit switch (cherry #E33-90N) 180-5165-00 , but i get no git on that last part number.
Quoted from Edenecho:Hi!
Does anyone know where to buy the cherry switches for the brainbug mech? The ones registering up/down position, I cant seem to find it anywhere. In the manual it says: Limit switch (cherry #E33-90N) 180-5165-00 , but i get no git on that last part number.
Here is the switch available.
https://pinball-parts.shop/kategoriesuche/spielfeldteile/mikroschalter/29640/mikroschalter
Quoted from tamoore:Of all the games I've ever sold, I miss this one the most. What a great game!!!!!
I agree. I looked forever for a High end style..and never found.
I Just installed a pair of lighted flipper button I won at a tournament and a happy accident occurred.
I didn't re-adjust the left flipper switch and it was closed when I started a game. IMG_2509 (resized).JPG
So I adjusted the switch properly and held it in while starting and got "League Game Selected" so far when I destroyed bugs on the planet, if I got it into the "Arm Nukes" saucer on the left, it was a 4 ball multi-ball
So I tried the right flipper button held in while starting a game and got "Wizard Game Selected" IMG_2511 (resized).JPG two ball multi-ball on "Arm Nukes" saucer so far (same as standard game)
Nothing different on the 3'rd flipper button for the "Pinky flipper"
I wondering first if I should get another lighted button for 3'rd button
Next I'm wondering what differences in all the game modes
I've owned my game for years and never found these. Ill have to try "wizard game" and see what the differences are. Thanks!
Page 3 in the manual states:
"Starting League/Tournament Play
After credit is posted, while holding in the LEFT
FLIPPER BUTTON, press the START BUTTON.
League Play has now begun. The differences
between Normal Game Play and League/Tournament
Play are: There is no “auto-percentaging" (awarding
extra balls, specials, etc. to players with very low
scores on the second or third ball). Mystery Features
are awarded in a set order rather than random in
Normal Game Play. Percentage Game Features are
not automatically advanced as they are for the Regular Play Features.
Starting Pinball Wizard Play
After credit is posted while holding in the RIGHT
FLIPPER BUTTON, press the START BUTTON.
Pinball Wizard Play has now begun. The same as
League/Tournament Play, but oooooooh! so much gosh darn harder! "
... not very descriptive but who reads the manual anyways :p
Quoted from RedFlash:In the manual is a roller actuator shown.
I hope this helps.
My machine is currently not at home to take a picture.
Greetings from germany
Jürgen
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thank you. I'm sure sure if I can tell from the picture where it is supposed to sit
Quoted from ryandimx:Thank you. I'm sure sure if I can tell from the picture where it is supposed to sit
the actuator on that switch is supposed to be a roller , the one there looks like the switch above the pop bumpers for the left ramp
IMG_2515 (resized).JPGIMG_2516 (resized).JPGcorrect switch ( according to parts manual)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-06
wrong pic ..but of the ramp posted above :p
IMG_2517 (resized).JPG
Quoted from chas10e:the actuator on that switch is supposed to be a roller , the one there looks like the switch above the pop bumpers for the left ramp[quoted image][quoted image]
Thank you so much for those pictures. This game has so many hacks on it.
Quoted from CraigC:One of my favorites!
Questions: are the flashers in the pop bumper area used? Do not cycle in all flashers test.
Does anyone make a start game decal for the lockdown bar?
Thanks!![quoted image]
Do you mean the Red, Green, Yellow & Blue flashers ? They should should all flash in flash test mode.
The lenses can be challenging to remove then replace to access the #906 lamps but gets easier as you figure one out.
They are mostly just an aesthetic feature as opposed to an indicator lamp.
EDIT:
I first thought the start decal was something some operator installed for n00bs ....
but
Thanks, I figured out that first I had a bad tip 102 and then the LED flashers just weren’t working. It’s completely fine with the incandescent bulbs now.
Thanks on the sticker. This is a crazy low play SST, so I assumed it was factory? I might peel it off and see how it looks.
Thanks!!
Quoted from chas10e:Do you mean the Red, Green, Yellow & Blue flashers ? They should should all flash in flash test mode.
The lenses can be challenging to remove then replace to access the #906 lamps but gets easier as you figure one out.
They are mostly just an aesthetic feature as opposed to an indicator lamp.
EDIT:
I first thought the start decal was something some operator installed for n00bs ....
but
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/820-6177-00
Does anyone have a replacement Starship Troopers playfield available?
Added 12 months ago:* NEVERMIND * I ended up passing on this one.
I recently picked up the machine that is in the first set of images in the gallery here: https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/starship-troopers/gallery#&gid=1&pid=1. Probably the same one that was passed on by the above poster . I've got most everything worked out that wasn't working and all the missing bits back in there (took some things out too). However, I'm not sure how best to approach the damage on top of the led display inserts. Anyone have any thoughts? It's a shame, as the playfield is in good shape except for these two spots and the where the Super VUK lands the ball.
20230413_173314 (resized).jpgQuoted from khzevo:I recently picked up the machine that is in the first set of images in the gallery here: https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/starship-troopers/gallery#&gid=1&pid=1. Probably the same one that was passed on by the above poster . I've got most everything worked out that wasn't working and all the missing bits back in there (took some things out too). However, I'm not sure how best to approach the damage on top of the led display inserts. Anyone have any thoughts? It's a shame, as the playfield is in good shape except for these two spots and the where the Super VUK lands the ball.
[quoted image]
I've cleared small spots of playfields before with 2 part automotive clear, but those inserts have a translucent clear to partially obscure the bug counters, and I don't know how you would do that. Beyond my skill set, but maybe someone else could do something.
I've had mine for years with a cracked pop bumper cap. Looked for a replacement for a year and never found one, so I gave up and it doesn't bother me anymore. I'd say just play the game and enjoy it. It's a great game, and everything doesn't have to be perfect.
Quoted from khzevo:I recently picked up the machine that is in the first set of images in the gallery here: https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/starship-troopers/gallery#&gid=1&pid=1. Probably the same one that was passed on by the above poster . I've got most everything worked out that wasn't working and all the missing bits back in there (took some things out too). However, I'm not sure how best to approach the damage on top of the led display inserts. Anyone have any thoughts? It's a shame, as the playfield is in good shape except for these two spots and the where the Super VUK lands the ball.
[quoted image]
clean off all of the loose paint, touch it up with frosted window paint.
Test the look on a scrap piece of clear plastic or glass.
Brush or spray:
Quoted from Electronmagic:I've cleared small spots of playfields before with 2 part automotive clear, but those inserts have a translucent clear to partially obscure the bug counters, and I don't know how you would do that. Beyond my skill set, but maybe someone else could do something.
I've had mine for years with a cracked pop bumper cap. Looked for a replacement for a year and never found one, so I gave up and it doesn't bother me anymore. I'd say just play the game and enjoy it. It's a great game, and everything doesn't have to be perfect.
Yeah, I'm trying to do what I can without going crazy or letting cosmetics bother me. It plays fine at this point as it is.
Quoted from pinballinreno:clean off all of the loose paint, touch it up with frosted window paint.
Test the look on a scrap piece of clear plastic or glass.
Brush or spray:
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
Thanks for the tips! I'll give that a try in the next couple weeks.
FYI - I'm currently making a mod to help with speaker hum/buzz on this generation of boards (Sega / Stern Whitestar). I have a Simpsons Pinball Party, and the hum was bothering me. I ended up finding this pinside discussion (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-speaker-humbuzz-fixed) which describes how to make the mod and how they work. The first post on that page has a video showing the process. I have them on Simpson's and Ripley's and they help immensely. If you'd like a pair and don't have the time or tools to make them, I will ship a pair to your door for $22. If interested please direct message me as I'm not here often. Thank you
Quoted from khzevo:Thanks for the tips! I'll give that a try in the next couple weeks.
so, how did it go? I have a similar issue with mine.
1 (resized).jpg
I want to know more! Or rather, I need to know more
Made a separate topic for issues with the brain bug, if anyone want to chime In Id be super grateful!
Have gone over and made most of my SST work, the last remaining issues are the brain bug and some autoplunging..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/starship-troopers-brain-bug-issues-1
New owner; have read the whole thread so here goes.
My game is properly leveled but:
* On plunging, I get about 0% "B", 40% "U" and 60% "G".
* A shot to the right orbit will almost always drain unless it is caught by the magnet.
I'm wondering if 0.0 degrees is really optimal. Any thoughts appreciated.
Quoted from archimandrite:New owner; have read the whole thread so here goes.
My game is properly leveled but:
* On plunging, I get about 0% "B", 40% "U" and 60% "G".
* A shot to the right orbit will almost always drain unless it is caught by the magnet.
I'm wondering if 0.0 degrees is really optimal. Any thoughts appreciated.
I'll be honest, I'm not sure what you're trying to describe here. What is at 0.0 degrees?
The standard skill shot never really involves any "skill" on SST because the magnet just grabs the ball and drops it.
Quoted from Electronmagic:I'll be honest, I'm not sure what you're trying to describe here. What is at 0.0 degrees?
The standard skill shot never really involves any "skill" on SST because the magnet just grabs the ball and drops it.
The side to side pitch. How do you measure yours?
Quoted from Electronmagic:The standard skill shot never really involves any "skill" on SST because the magnet just grabs the ball and drops it.
I usually go for the orbit skill shot. Hold the left flipper and plunge into the orbit hole, just past the B lane. It keeps the orbits lit for the rest of the ball.
Quoted from refried:I usually go for the orbit skill shot. Hold the left flipper and plunge into the orbit hole, just past the B lane. It keeps the orbits lit for the rest of the ball.
No disagreement. I just thought that the fact that the ball never rolls through the "B" lane might indicate a leveling issue.
I still haven't got around to it
I tested a few frosted spray paints on Plexiglas, didn't like the results I was seeing and parked the project for the summer. I'm waiting on some parts that will hopefully push me to pick this back up when they arrive (this year I hope).
Godzilla is calling. I'm gonna be selling my Sst.
Colordmd, titan rubber, LEDs (usually comet but might have some cointaker). Custom side art blades that were originally designed for me. Color bug counter display. Light mod inside brain bug.
Cabinet has wear and probably considered players condition. A couple cracked plastics but nothing major. Has had some board tunes ups with transistors and bridge rectifiers being replaced. Yellow powder coated legs.
Quoted from archimandrite:New owner; have read the whole thread so here goes.
My game is properly leveled but:
* On plunging, I get about 0% "B", 40% "U" and 60% "G".
* A shot to the right orbit will almost always drain unless it is caught by the magnet.
I'm wondering if 0.0 degrees is really optimal. Any thoughts appreciated.
One the first point, I've now gotten "B" twice in many, many plays. "G" is more like 80%.
On the second point, I put some tape on the ball guide. Issue solved, if not elegantly. Now I can opt for the ramp skill shot
Quoted from archimandrite:How is your Warrior bug attached? Mine was attached with black zip ties.
There should be a metal plate to screw into. Here is a post that shows what your missing.
Quoted from Lithonion:There should be a metal plate to screw into. Here is a post that shows what your missing.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/do-you-want-to-know-more-sst-owners-club-past-present-and-future/page/13#post-5718158
Thanks, but your link was for the brain bug.
Quoted from archimandrite:Thanks, but your link was for the brain bug.
Wow, don't I feel like an idiot. lol I just checked mine, it's zip tied in as well. As far as I know it's never been removed.
Quoted from Lithonion:Wow, don't I feel like an idiot. lol I just checked mine, it's zip tied in as well. As far as I know it's never been removed.
Thanks.
I'm thinking about the Pinsound shaker. Who's done it, and were you satisfied with the results? How hard is it to figure out a good set of cues?
Quoted from archimandrite:I'm thinking about the Pinsound shaker. Who's done it, and were you satisfied with the results? How hard is it to figure out a good set of cues?
My game has been in storage for 2 years and Ive never played it.
I cant wait to shop it out and add a pinsound, shaker and ColorDMD.
ITs gonna be EPIC!
If there are no built in shaker routines in the ROM, Ill make them!
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