(Topic ID: 52019)

Do You Want To Know More? SST Owners club; Past, Present and Future.


By tamoore

7 years ago



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  • 626 posts
  • 110 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by pinballinreno
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There are 626 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 13.
#601 37 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

They look great. I think it had some galaxies and planets...I have stern mirror blades but could get those too.
are sega blades same as stern?

Found them The old SST I bought 5 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinblades-on-machines-that-they-werent-designed-for

#602 35 days ago

I think they work better on SST rather than Star Trek!

#603 35 days ago

Those are pretty weak...

1 week later
#604 26 days ago

Well, I took everything off my playfield to clean my SST up. What do you guys do about the mylar parts? The pop bumper section is some custom shape. Do you just cut a new piece to match the shape? Or just remove the mylar and leave it like that? What do you recommend?

I will need to purchase mylar, what is the recommended place?

IMG_20200614_223558825 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#605 19 days ago

I ordered a large piece of mylar from Marco along with some other parts so I will try to make my own shape for the pop bumper mylar.

Now that I have my playfield torn down, I could use some recommendations on leds to put in it.
Can anyone offer any advise with this game? My understanding is that I need non-ghosting leds for the inserts.
Does the GI also need to be non-ghosting? It turns off at specific parts of the gameplay and I do not want to lose that effect. Has anyone tested this with LEDS? I want to get this part right as you have to tear down the playfield to get to all the gi lights for replacement.

I know it's personal taste, but any recommendations on specific colors? I'm thinking orange for the BUG rollover lanes, white for the rest of the GI, and color match the inserts. Also, that one bayonet flasher next to the hole up at the top of the playfield, what was that flasher used for? I can't remember and it was probably burnt out on the machine prior.

Any tips are welcome!

#606 19 days ago
Quoted from xamindar:

I ordered a large piece of mylar from Marco along with some other parts so I will try to make my own shape for the pop bumper mylar.
Now that I have my playfield torn down, I could use some recommendations on leds to put in it.
Can anyone offer any advise with this game? My understanding is that I need non-ghosting leds for the inserts.
Does the GI also need to be non-ghosting? It turns off at specific parts of the gameplay and I do not want to lose that effect. Has anyone tested this with LEDS? I want to get this part right as you have to tear down the playfield to get to all the gi lights for replacement.
I know it's personal taste, but any recommendations on specific colors? I'm thinking orange for the BUG rollover lanes, white for the rest of the GI, and color match the inserts. Also, that one bayonet flasher next to the hole up at the top of the playfield, what was that flasher used for? I can't remember and it was probably burnt out on the machine prior.
Any tips are welcome!

The orange LED's I have tried to use have always been much dimmer than all other colors. I personally would do all white. I never bother with non-ghosting, but a little ghosting doesn't bother me like it does some people. You can't go wrong using Comet LED's. If I remember right, I zip-tied a socket and bulb under the plastic directly to the left of the scoop as there isn't any illumination there from the factory.

#607 19 days ago

All white is a good suggestion. Colors didn’t look good to me on the BUG rollovers. You will want non-ghosting for the inserts on this game.

#608 18 days ago
Quoted from Electronmagic:

The orange LED's I have tried to use have always been much dimmer than all other colors.

Yeah that's what I keep reading. Looks like Comet recomends using pink leds under orange inserts. Weird, but worth a try I guess. As for the orange lane guides, I think I'll just go with warm white under those.

Quoted from Electronmagic:

I zip-tied a socket and bulb under the plastic directly to the left of the scoop as there isn't any illumination there from the factory.

Are you talking about the arm nukes/extra ball scoop on the far left? Or the main vuk in front of the pops? Looks to me like neither of those locations have any lights.
Also, the right ramp seems a little dark too if I recall correctly. Has anyone added anything to that?

Quoted from mattosborn:

Colors didn’t look good to me on the BUG rollovers.

Are you talking about the three clear inserts? Dang, I was thinking of trying blue or purple. Maybe cool white is best. At least the inserts are easy to change.

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll make a main GI order and some inserts that I know I want, then do the rest later when it's all put back together again.

#609 18 days ago
Quoted from xamindar:

Are you talking about the three clear inserts? Dang, I was thinking of trying blue or purple. Maybe cool white is best. At least the inserts are easy to change.

Yeah, I think I tried red and blue. Just wasn't able to see the letters well. Looked cleaner with white. Maybe you'll find something you like. When in doubt, I stick with the original color scheme of the game. Try not to color bomb. Be careful with purple... seen plenty of examples where people destroy the look of a game with those... freakin' Barney nightmare.

#610 18 days ago

haha yeah, I'm not a fan of the unicorn poop look. I'm still going to keep most, if not all, GI white. Also, when I see games that look like a police car with red and blue everywhere it just looks bad. I don't get why red and blue is so common.

On my stargate I left most of the G.I. white. Only put some purple under the lower lane guides and a red flasher under "Ra's Bracelet" for the explosion. I've been happy with that.

#611 18 days ago

I played around with colored LEDs under the planets, just so they were a little more distinct and different from each other. Turned out pretty good. Sorry, I don't have a pic to share.

I take that back. You can kinda see them in this video:

#612 18 days ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

I played around with colored LEDs under the planets, just so they were a little more distinct and different from each other. Turned out pretty good. Sorry, I don't have a pic to share.
I take that back. You can kinda see them in this video:

Very cool, I've been wanting to do exactly this. What parts did you use?

#613 18 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Very cool, I've been wanting to do exactly this. What parts did you use?

Are you talking about the colored bug counters? More details on those in this post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/do-you-want-to-know-more-sst-owners-club-past-present-and-future/page/9#post-3196656

A small run of those boards was made. I did not sell them, and I no longer have the game, so I can't supply any details. I do still have my original prototype, which was just a modified original board. So I could tell you what parts I used on that. The production boards used different parts.

#614 18 days ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

I played around with colored LEDs under the planets, just so they were a little more distinct and different from each other. Turned out pretty good. Sorry, I don't have a pic to share.
I take that back. You can kinda see them in this video:

I did the same thing to mine. I tried to match the color LED to the color of the planet to make them really pop. I think it looks better than just a white incandescent or LED.

#615 18 days ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Are you talking about the colored bug counters?

Sorry, yeah. I was talking about the colored counter numbers. That looks awesome.

#616 14 days ago

Was the brain bug soft when it was new?

I have a "NOS" brain bug to replace my old one but there is a metal bracket inside the old one that I can not understand how it got in there. It is too big to fit through that hole in the bottom unless the brain bug was squishy. Both of these brain bugs are hard solid plastic.
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#617 14 days ago
Quoted from xamindar:

Was the brain bug soft when it was new?
I have a "NOS" brain bug to replace my old one but there is a metal bracket inside the old one that I can not understand how it got in there. It is too big to fit through that hole in the bottom unless the brain bug was squishy. Both of these brain bugs are hard solid plastic.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Can you bend the metal inside to kind of make it into a 'C', then transfer it out of the old one, into the new one, then unbend enough to re-mount it? I don't own my SST anymore so don't know how tough that bracket is.

#618 14 days ago

No way I'm bending it, it's a good 3 millimeters thick. Looks like I'll just have to cut it out, then cut a slit in the new one so I can fit it through.

EDIT, dang, I got the same rivets for the ramp that is listed in the manual but they are too short. I guess they didn't use the ones listed in the manual. These plastic ramps are pretty thick.

#619 13 days ago

Does anyone know what these two holes are for next to the ball drop? Looks like they were there for a wire guide or screws at one point. I don't think anything was in them on mine.
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Added 12 days ago:

EDIT, found it, it's in the manual as 535-8148-00. Doesn't appear to be sold anywhere either.

#620 11 days ago
Quoted from xamindar:

Does anyone know what these two holes are for next to the ball drop? Looks like they were there for a wire guide or screws at one point. I don't think anything was in them on mine.

Added today: EDIT, found it, it's in the manual as 535-8148-00. Doesn't appear to be sold anywhere either.

You'll have to do what I did when I needed one of the Stern 'M'-shaped outlane guides for Avatar that nobody sold: Call Stern parts department, explain your situation, tell them it's not available anywhere, and hope you get someone cool enough to look for it. First person never got back to me, after a week I called again and new person put me on hold, and a few minutes later told me "Yeah, we got a TON of them!" because the part # was never put into the database for parts dealers to buy. He put it in the system, I told Terry at Pinball Life, and now it's available for $7 I told Marco too, but he put it up for $15

Hopefully Stern still uses/used the SST guide often and still has it in their system. It helps if you can find a newer Stern game that used the part too, I told the guy the outlane guide was on Metallica and that's how he found it.

Good Luck!

#621 11 days ago

I doubt any other machines use this part. It's kind of an odd shape to fit around the nearby posts.

I bought some "music wire" form a local hobby shop that matches the thickness and plan to just make one.....but it's too hard to bend with just the locking pliers I have. I might need to buy a vice and use a hammer to bend.

I kind of wonder what happened to the original....did the owner at the time find it in the bottom of the cabinet and think to himself "huh, that's a strange piece of metal", and then promptly tossed it in the garbage bin?

#622 10 days ago
Quoted from xamindar:

I doubt any other machines use this part. It's kind of an odd shape to fit around the nearby posts.
I bought some "music wire" form a local hobby shop that matches the thickness and plan to just make one.....but it's too hard to bend with just the locking pliers I have. I might need to buy a vice and use a hammer to bend.
I kind of wonder what happened to the original....did the owner at the time find it in the bottom of the cabinet and think to himself "huh, that's a strange piece of metal", and then promptly tossed it in the garbage bin?

all the guides on my Baby Pac Man were broken when I got it. I bent all new guides with this. All I did was screw it to a board and it worked great for me. Maybe it could help you out. It was pretty cheap as well under 12 bucks.

amazon.com link »

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1 week later
#623 2 days ago

Hey all, just joined the club. I took my playfield kind of apart so I could clean and wax everything. I'm noticing that in the middle of the playfield the trajectory of the ball will change suddenly. Maybe just needs to be waxed again?

Also It's giving me a switch 40 error in the tech menu. U trough Exit Hole. I played the game thoroughly and tested everything and everything seems to work fine. It says switch 40 is a DOTS switch. This is my first pin so I'm a bit of a noob.

#624 22 hours ago
Quoted from ProjektPat:

Hey all, just joined the club. I took my playfield kind of apart so I could clean and wax everything. I'm noticing that in the middle of the playfield the trajectory of the ball will change suddenly. Maybe just needs to be waxed again?
Also It's giving me a switch 40 error in the tech menu. U trough Exit Hole. I played the game thoroughly and tested everything and everything seems to work fine. It says switch 40 is a DOTS switch. This is my first pin so I'm a bit of a noob.

Welcome to the club!!
First about the ball changing trajectory. Is it over the brain bug area or over the planets? If it's over the planets you might have a raised insert or cupped insert. If it's over the brain bug that is sorta normal. At least it is with my pin. I have changed the brain bug plexi and upper metal frame and it didn't really help.

As for your switch 40, it could be a few things. A broken wire, a bad switch, or a bad diode on the switch. It doesn't do much that I know of and if it does more then what I state maybe someone can chime in. All I can tell it has ever done is it add some points when triggered and can also stop the hurry up timer in nuke mode but the pop bumpers will also stop the timer. The switch is in the drop down hole in the pop bumper area. If I get a switch fault if there are no broken wires, I just replace the switch. They are cheap enough and easy enough to replace. New Diode, new switch and done.

#625 10 hours ago
Quoted from xamindar:

I doubt any other machines use this part. It's kind of an odd shape to fit around the nearby posts.
I bought some "music wire" form a local hobby shop that matches the thickness and plan to just make one.....but it's too hard to bend with just the locking pliers I have. I might need to buy a vice and use a hammer to bend.
I kind of wonder what happened to the original....did the owner at the time find it in the bottom of the cabinet and think to himself "huh, that's a strange piece of metal", and then promptly tossed it in the garbage bin?

I found some shop pics online of that area with the guide, hope they help.

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#626 6 hours ago

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If anyone has a project or good restorable game they want to get rid of, let me know please.

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There are 626 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 13.

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