(Topic ID: 52019)

Do You Want To Know More? SST Owners club; Past, Present and Future.

By tamoore

8 years ago


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  • 750 posts
  • 121 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by SkyKing2301
  • Topic is favorited by 45 Pinsiders

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There are 750 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 15.
#451 5 years ago

I have an SST that has a weird issue with the red flashers. They don't work (flash) in test mode nor do they flash during game play. When grounding the driver transistor (Q25) during game play, they all light up. Any thoughts?

1 month later
#452 5 years ago

joined the club today. Needed a projectpin to fill a gap of a few months and found a decent looking SST which does need some TLC.

Major issue is however that the brainbug is missing . Also the small flipper isnt working (already checked fuse) but this is fixable. Lack of the brainbug is more worrying. Anyone has a spare he can miss?

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#453 5 years ago

Is the metal skirt that sits on the playfield around the brain bug replaceable ? Mines all bent.

#456 5 years ago

Work has begun. Tear down relatively simple. In 2 hours stripped and first cleaning done. Now polishing and waxing. Plastics cleaned to, men, they were dirty. At least this game gives you honor of your work

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#457 5 years ago

still such a GREAT game and severly under appreciated!

-1
#458 5 years ago

I have a SST on route. Lately, a ball will repeatedly get stuck in the far back right corner on the plastic above the right orbit. Anyone else having this and find a solution?

#459 5 years ago

http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/heat-vision/starship-troopers-reboot-works-943882

Saw there might be a SST reboot. Wouldn't it be cool to see a SST Vault Edition? What would you like to see added to a VE?

#460 5 years ago

Here is my newest mod. The sound has been really bugging me. I added the right channel amp to the board when I added the speaker light kit and you still could barely hear it. The only way you could hear any sound was put your ear on the speaker. I was already aware thanks to this thread the sounds where recorded in mono. But my OCD was kicking in and I had to fix it. In comes the idea of a tiny amp just on the one speaker. So I purchased a PAM8403 5V 2 channel amp rated for 4 Ohm speakers off ebay. It made a huge difference and I adjusted the one speaker to match the output of the left. I know it still is not true stereo but it sure sounds a whole lot better.

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#461 5 years ago

Has anyone cleaned up the live fire assault range mechanism before? I am thinking this probably needs a full tear down, cleaning, and painting. Any suggestions/tips from prior experienceonce the silver rods are cleaned and polished, doesn't any type of grease go on them? What about the screw drive mechanism?

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#462 5 years ago
Quoted from Soonerbrink:

Has anyone cleaned up the live fire assault range mechanism before? I am thinking this probably needs a full tear down, cleaning, and painting. Any suggestions/tips from prior experienceonce the silver rods are cleaned and polished, doesn't any type of grease go on them? What about the screw drive mechanism?

Tear down is pretty easy if you want to sand and paint it. Take the two C Clips off the front and slide the rods back. After you get the rods off remove the two lock nuts holding the worm gear motor and you can turn it by hand and spin the bug bracket off. Remove the little rubber stoppers if they are pliable. This should just leave you the frame. I don't have a tumbler or I would have put the rods in that. You should be ok with emery and a lube with Teflon on the rods and worm gear. This at Marco is what I like or if you have something else close that would work to.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-BL

#463 5 years ago

Installed a Pinitech NVRAM chip. No more batteries!! Just pulled the factory chip, installed this one and redid all my settings. Now to work on all the high scores again!

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#464 5 years ago
Quoted from Lithonion:

Tear down is pretty easy if you want to sand and paint it. Take the two C Clips off the front and slide the rods back. After you get the rods off remove the two lock nuts holding the worm gear motor and you can turn it by hand and spin the bug bracket off. Remove the little rubber stoppers if they are pliable. This should just leave you the frame. I don't have a tumbler or I would have put the rods in that. You should be ok with emery and a lube with Teflon on the rods and worm gear. This at Marco is what I like or if you have something else close that would work to.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-BL

Thanks for the detailed suggestions. It looks like the bulb brackets are held on by a type of rivet. Would it be best to just drill these out and replace with a bolt and nut so they can be removed?

#465 5 years ago

Ya that is what I would do. Small bolt and lock nut.

#466 5 years ago

Started to tare my sst down for cleaning. Noticed it looks like it's missing a screw and spacer the attaches to the middle of the right ramp exit under the flashers. It's strange as the screw hole goes threw the part of the ramp the ball rides on.

Can someone post pictures of this area on theirs please.

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#467 5 years ago

Also what are these stickers for?

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#468 5 years ago

Figured one out. Covers the blood.

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#469 5 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Started to tare my sst down for cleaning. Noticed it looks like it's missing a screw and spacer the attaches to the middle of the right ramp exit under the flashers. It's strange as the screw hole goes threw the part of the ramp the ball rides on.
Can someone post pictures of this area on theirs please.

Dug up some pictures of my tear down. This part has a longer wood screw through the ramp and a plastic spacer between the ramp and plastic

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#470 5 years ago

Awsome thanks!

#472 5 years ago

Only replaced the rubbers, not the sleeves. Especially because the half high ones weren't available in silicone and this game is for me temporarily anyway awaiting my TBL. So didn't bother, just cleaned them with a cloth

#473 5 years ago

Might try it like this. Way more bounce off the corners of the slings.

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#474 5 years ago

I replaced all the 1/2 rubbers on ours. Most where so dry rotted they where coming apart while you played. So when I tore it down replaced every rubber in the game including the posts. But this pin will be in our home a very long time. It was an anniversary gift to my wife. If I try to sell it that will be the cause for the divorce.

So I am going to keep tricking it out. Mine was missing a ship when I got it so had to rebuy one off eBay. If you buy the toy it comes with pilots and a few figures. So mine has pilots now and I took the extra figures and mounted them on the slingshot plastics. I will post pics when I get more time to take some. I also ordered colored post sleeves as the ones that came in my all in one rubber kit where to big. Also added a little bug over the shooter lane gate. Added Mylar over the flipper buttons.

Always thinking of that next mod.

#475 5 years ago

First toy added in the ball shooter trough is the Chariot Bug that went under the brain bug to help move him along.

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Second our pin was missing the Tac Fighter so I picked one up still in the box on eBay. It came with two pilot figures so I installed them into it. You really have to look to see them when your playing.

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Third toy mod was the three troopers that came with the warrior bug. This is the bug over the multiball assembly. I used my dremel and made holes just slightly smaller than the rare earth magnets I put in. If you look at the first slingshot picture you can see the magnets holding the troopers in place. The magnets that come with the troopers where not strong enough and had to mod with rare earth magnets as well. It holds them well in place and in the event of an wild flying pinball it will not break them or the slingshot plastics it will just knock the trooper off. I have two sets of new slingshot plastics so I was ok with making the mod on these.
And yes I noticed the leaf switch on the wrong side on the left slingshot.

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Next I want to find the cannon troopers that go in the seats but not wanting to buy a whole cannon on eBay for 50 bucks for one tiny figure.

#476 5 years ago

Just put some decals on the targets:

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#477 5 years ago

They look great it really makes them pop!

1 month later
#478 5 years ago

One of my wife's Christmas presents. It is a print from Rhys Cooper. Pictures do not do his art justice. A lot of the print is a chrome type of ink. It is going up right next to the pin. Anyway here it is.

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#479 5 years ago

Here is a response to the request for images pertaining to the screw through the ramp.

I was going through parts that were in the bottom of the cabinet and I found a gold colored spacer and a screw. The spacer fit perfectly. I decided to use a round head screw instead of the hex head. It worked perfectly! You could also use a clear or gray spacer. Space is half inch in size.

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2 weeks later
#480 5 years ago

After finally getting my SST completely shopped and playing perfectly, I got a airball last night that broke one of my plastics. If anyone has a spare they could sell it would be greatly appreciated.

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#481 5 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

After finally getting my SST completely shopped and playing perfectly, I got a airball last night that broke one of my plastics. If anyone has a spare they could sell it would be greatly appreciated.

Yikes! I think I'll go make a plastic protector for mine before that happens to me....
Good luck in your search. I've never seen a full or even partial set of SST plastics come up for sale. I do have an extra set of slingshot plastics if someone needs them.

#482 5 years ago

They have 3 NOS complete plastic sets at Little shop of games but I can't justify over $200 usd ($180 plus shipping) for 1 plastic.

#483 5 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

They have 3 NOS complete plastic sets at Little shop of games but I can't justify over $200 usd ($180 plus shipping) for 1 plastic.

You'd probably be better off getting a scan and making one. Is there no lamp underneath? If not, so much the better because you don't have to worry about how the light will shine through your repro.

If you're interested, I could scan mine when I get a chance.

#484 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

You'd probably be better off getting a scan and making one. Is there no lamp underneath? If not, so much the better because you don't have to worry about how the light will shine through your repro.
If you're interested, I could scan mine when I get a chance.

Any chance you would make one and sell it to me?

I've also been thinking about cutting a piece of lexan to the same size and gluing the 2 broken half's ontop of it.

#485 5 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

I've also been thinking about cutting a piece of lexan to the same size and gluing the 2 broken half's ontop of it.

That would probably be the easiest if it's a clean break. I have a couple plastics on JP where I did this. It would probably be better than a complete DIY repro.

Quoted from Mitch:

Any chance you would make one and sell it to me?

I've dabbled in remaking a couple plastics for my games, but it's not something I'd want to do as a service. It's a semi-fun DIY hobby thing that's enjoyable when restoring my game, but not so enjoyable that I'd want to take the time to remake a plastic from scratch for someone else. Sorry.

#486 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I've dabbled in remaking a couple plastics for my games, but it's not something I'd want to do as a service. It's a semi-fun DIY hobby thing that's enjoyable when restoring my game, but not so enjoyable that I'd want to take the time to remake a plastic from scratch for someone else. Sorry.

Thats cool and i completely understand. Figured it wouldnt hurt to ask.

Still hoping someone who changed their plastics has a spare one laying around they will sell me.

2 weeks later
#487 4 years ago

Just became a citizen.

Oddly my flashers don't work except only the blue ones and the two on the warrior bug, is this at all common?

Anyways what a fun game!

#488 4 years ago

Anyone with a spare plastic?

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#489 4 years ago

Guess I'll finally post here. I became a citizen about 4 months ago and have been playing my SST ever since. It's my first pin and I have to say, it's awesome! Definitely not a HUO but in pretty decent shape. I have already fixed a few things and gone full LED. The only real "mod" I've done is swap out the fluorescent tube light in the backbox with an LED tube light (removed ballast and starter too). If anyone wants to do so it's pretty easy, just ask and I can show you what I did.

Glad to be a part of the club!

#490 4 years ago
Quoted from brianmcculloh:

Guess I'll finally post here. I became a citizen about 4 months ago and have been playing my SST ever since. It's my first pin and I have to say, it's awesome! Definitely not a HUO but in pretty decent shape. I have already fixed a few things and gone full LED. The only real "mod" I've done is swap out the fluorescent tube light in the backbox with an LED tube light (removed ballast and starter too). If anyone wants to do so it's pretty easy, just ask and I can show you what I did.
Glad to be a part of the club!

Welcome to your new addiction! I am just over one year on pinball addicts anonymous! Joined Pinside in 2014 but didn't get a pin till late 2015. That was the first thing I did to my SST as well.

1 week later
#491 4 years ago
Quoted from Soonerbrink:

Has anyone cleaned up the live fire assault range mechanism before? I am thinking this probably needs a full tear down, cleaning, and painting. Any suggestions/tips from prior experienceonce the silver rods are cleaned and polished, doesn't any type of grease go on them? What about the screw drive mechanism?

Disassembled....drilled out rivets...cleaned...painted...polished... added new hardware to replace rivets, and re-soldered wires. I will need two of those clear rubber pieces that sit at the front, but I am not sure what they are for.

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#492 4 years ago
Quoted from Soonerbrink:

Disassembled....drilled out rivets...cleaned...painted...polished... added new hardware to replace rivets, and re-soldered wires. I will need two of those clear rubber pieces that sit at the front, but I am not sure what they are for.

I could be wrong but I don't think they really do anything. Only thing I could think of is possibly stop an air ball from getting in?
You can still buy them but all they are is a self stick rubber bumper.

Two places you can get them or just get something similar at like Home Depot.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/280-5012-00
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RB-280-5012-00

#493 4 years ago
Quoted from Lithonion:

Tear down is pretty easy if you want to sand and paint it. Take the two C Clips off the front and slide the rods back. After you get the rods off remove the two lock nuts holding the worm gear motor and you can turn it by hand and spin the bug bracket off. Remove the little rubber stoppers if they are pliable. This should just leave you the frame. I don't have a tumbler or I would have put the rods in that. You should be ok with emery and a lube with Teflon on the rods and worm gear. This at Marco is what I like or if you have something else close that would work to.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-BL

I am not familiar with different types of greases and their purposes, but it almost looks like some residue from white lithium grease is on the worm gear. Did they have this on them new, or is this something that might have been added by an operator? Any opinions on why, or why not this type of grease should be used?

#494 4 years ago

I tore down my Troopers without taking pictures, because I am an idiot. I see many pictures here which will be helpful to the rebuild effort, but I was wondering if somewhere in this massive thread there is a link to a teardown album that I might be directed to, or someone would be willing to upload their pics and make one. Many thanks in advance.

#495 4 years ago
Quoted from stuliss:

I tore down my Troopers without taking pictures, because I am an idiot. I see many pictures here which will be helpful to the rebuild effort, but I was wondering if somewhere in this massive thread there is a link to a teardown album that I might be directed to, or someone would be willing to upload their pics and make one. Many thanks in advance.

Hope this helps

https://goo.gl/photos/6v2GAT4MqJTSxjQZ8

#496 4 years ago

Well, this project was started over two years ago and.... it is finally completed!

This was my first project like this and it was quite the chore. There was a lot of downtime as higher priority tasks came along during the process.

Nearly all the boards were repaired, full playfield teardown, numerous repairs, replacement parts, hardware, LEDs, rubbers, sanding, polishing, painting, ultrasonic, dremel, tumbler, polishing, painting, etc.

There is one area where the mylar is bubbling up, but it isn't in a crucial area so I decided to leave it alone for now.

Some of the quotes on here about the game before I started were "Holy wow that's dirty!" and "Nightmare!".

The sense of satisfaction associated with the accomplishment is rewarding. I have had lots of responses to all kinds of questions on here... and many hours of research on other posts and couldn't have done it without fellow Pinsiders!

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#497 4 years ago

Rensh Many thanks. Fellow Citizens, pray for one of your own!

1 week later
#498 4 years ago

Hey guys and gals

Found this thread and enjoyed all of them. I bought my game from TAMOORE, the guy who started this thread. I love it the game. Even as my as the NIB IMVE I got this summers

I am having some issues when I get a high score where the machine asks for initials. Today I reached a high score and entered my initials and selected the face. (There was a loud screech and pop)(this is the third time this has happened) all of the old scores with newly entered initials have gone back to default high scores. It did leave my latest high score but it was not my highest. It now shows my lastest score as #1 and the rest are default scores(even numbers)

Is there anything you guys can think of why this happens or what might be wrong

Thanks

-1
#499 4 years ago

Take a look at Sega Adjustments 27 HSTD Reset Count. This setting has the number of games between automatic resets of high scores. Default is 2,000. I have a SST on route and the high scores were getting reset. I changed this setting to off and the high scores don't get reset any longer. This might be why your scores reset.

1 month later
#500 4 years ago

I'm an SST newbie with a question regarding the difficulty settings.

The manual only shows the that Extra Ball Memory is off when choosing the "extra hard" setting, and that each orbit, ramp and multiball difficulty changes without any explanation of the actual change between the settings.

Is there a count difference in bug kills required with each difficulty setting? The manual fails to provide any specific detail to the changes that are affected with the different settings.

Is there any documentation describing the specific differences to game-play when choosing the various difficulty settings?

There are 750 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 15.

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