(Topic ID: 185187)

Do you have to use Molex connectors?


By Streetfightur

2 years ago



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  • 15 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by CactusJack
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#1 2 years ago

I have a pinball that is dead, and I am trying to find the issue. I have replaced the fuses, so I was planning on replacing the power cord. This is my first pin to repair, so I made a rookie mistake. I noticed the power cord had a molex connector, and I pulled the wires out of it. This resulted in the metal pins getting stuck in the connector... I cannot find this connector at Fry's electronics.

Could I bypass using a Molex connector, and just wire the power cord directly? It seems like common sense, but I want to make sure that I do not compromise repairing this machine any further...

Thank you!

#2 2 years ago

greatplainselectronics.com
bigdaddy-enterprises.com
mouser.com
digikey.com

They all carry molex pins and connectors.

Do you have a pin extractor tool? If so, you can just reuse the connector housing and replace the pins.

#3 2 years ago

Thanks for the info.

I tried a pin extractor tool, but I couldn't get them to come out

#4 2 years ago

The answer is yes, but you should definitely do it right especially if you're not good at wiring things, remember that the power cord is obviously high voltage and if you do it wrong and cause a short or short it to something like the coin door you can cause major harm to your house, yourself, and other players. (and obviously the machine too!)

If this is one of those that like plugs the molex into a connector sticking out of a metal power supply box, then I would definitely not bypass it as that sounds like a major pain in the ass. If it's just the plug into another "free" wire, then it would be easier but I would still just recommend doing it the correct way.

#5 2 years ago

I would have to agree with above. Taking the time to order the correct connector on will be better in the long run and look more appealing to anybody else should you choose to sell it down the road.

Make your first repair a good one that's done right...then you start off on the best foot possible

Dont forget, if in doubt, there are plenty of people here to help!

#6 2 years ago

I appeciate the info! Forceflow provided some links for connectors, and I have tried to go through the manual, but have had no luck as to what kind of connector I should buy. Any ideas?

17425140_10154852349720342_5985317810287098822_n (resized).jpg

#7 2 years ago

Direct to the board will work till it doesn't. Then it makes troubleshooting it even more difficult. If you hack the repair you will never be sure if your problem is in your own hack or elsewhere.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from Streetfightur:

I appeciate the info! Forceflow provided some links for connectors, and I have tried to go through the manual, but have had no luck as to what kind of connector I should buy. Any ideas?

Is there not just a part number reference next to the connector ID name (2J8 or whatever it says) in the manual somewhere? Likely towards the back, but maybe the front.

#9 2 years ago

Looks like a 2 pin mini-fit Jr. Molex connector. Are you working on a premiere/Gottlieb game? They are the only brand I know that used them. And pin extraction is very hard on those.

Since it is the main line voltage, another safe option for you is to pick up some splice tap connectors. For the line cord, you want the blue ones. These are the ones with a plastic clamshell design with a knife inside with two slots in it. They are very easy to use and can be permanent if you wish. Name brands are even UL listed for safety. Just make sure no bare ends extend outside the splice connector.

Of course, you could also use blue butt splice (barrel) connectors. But some people have a hard time of doing a safe and sturdy crimp.

#10 2 years ago

Cactusjack has a pretty good guess that it's a Molex minfit jr. And is that a gottlieb connector id number on the sticker...

What specific game this is for may help others help you further.

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

Cactusjack has a pretty good guess that it's a Molex minfit jr. And is that a gottlieb connector id number on the sticker...
What specific game this is for may help others help you further.

This is a Gottlieb game. I am dealing with a Street Fighter 2 pin. I will look into the splice connector.

Ill let you guys know how it goes.
Thanks!

#12 2 years ago

I would again personally reccomend using the correct connector instead , but thank you for letting us know what you are going to try so people do not spend the time pulling manuals and finding correct items for you if they are not going to be used.

#13 2 years ago

I always forget to look at the "linked games" for game identification. I expect it in the title or body of message....... Silly me!

Since it is Gottlieb/Premier, if that connector plugs into the side of the power chassis (mating connector sticking out of metal chassis), then I DON'T recommend using splice taps since it would require you going in and under the power chassis to hack into the other wires. But if its just two free hanging connectors at the back of the game, then splice would be okay.

http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/039014020_sd.pdf

PN 39-01-4020 or 39-01-4021 (difference is flammability rating).

Crimp pin for 16 AWG wire (line cord size) PN 39-00-0078.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39-00-0078/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs%252bGHln7q6pm%252bS0pk2Wo0XxLYpd9UGAwNY%3d

#14 2 years ago

Watched some splice connector videos, and I really did not understand the process. I have decided to wait a day, and I ordered the correct Molex minifit Jr.

I'll do it the right way

#15 2 years ago

This is the type I was referring to:

https://www.delcity.net/store/Quick-Splice-Connector-!-18!14-Gauge/p_9373.h_152554.r_IF1003?mkwid=sqvufbAY0&crid=38094426869&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=CKn5rf-C_9ICFYa2wAodmmMHpA

Simple to use. There are two troughs/channels inside. The outer channel passes through from end to end (can straddle a wire anywhere along its length) and the other is dead ended (end of a single cut wire). You slip the outside channel over the wire, you shove the other wire into the other channel. You use a pair of pliers to crimp the knife downward. It cuts through the insulation and makes contact with the wires inside. You swing the cover over and snap it down to insulate the top of the knife from touching anything.

In watching that video, she really didn't press the knife down far enough. It should sit flush with the top of the plastic. Just don't cram it down deeper since you can begin to cut wire strands.

Oh, and you can use them to join to wires together along side each other even if they are not on the cut ends. You simply take a pair of needle nose and grab the two tabs that hang down to make the channel a dead end and pull them both out.

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