(Topic ID: 219830)

Do you have the right legs on your pin?


By Colsond3

9 months ago



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  • 88 posts
  • 33 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by timab2000
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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    There are 88 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 9 months ago

    Legs

    I know what Marco and the other part sites say, but do you have the right legs on your machine? I was curious whether I did, as we often get sets of legs rolled up from people when we purchase games.

    I didn’t see any threads after a quick search, so I just thought I would throw this out there out of my curiosity, and whether anybody had input I was unaware of.

    For instance, I recently picked up an Allied Leisure Getaway and a Spooksville. Wrong legs are commonly given by sellers along with AL games. Most games (Bally, Stern, Williams, DE, etc.) have 2 1/4” spacing between the leg bolts, from center to center.

    AL legs, however, have an abnormal 2 1/2” spacing between the leg bolts, from center to center. So if you try to put “regular” legs on an AL game, all you will do is get them in on an angle and strip out the receivers.

    And AL legs are 29 3/4 tall, with partial ribbing.

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    #2 9 months ago

    70’s Bally EM....28”.

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    #3 9 months ago

    I have been fortunate that all the legs were OEM. However,I put a new set of 27 inch Williams on a Gottlieb and liked the lower stance. I would like to lower all my machines, buts that another subject.

    #4 9 months ago

    Sega 31”, no rib. Are they all black?

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    #5 9 months ago

    All of my games have the right legs and the left legs. I find it works better that way.

    #6 9 months ago

    I put 31" on the backs of all mine.

    Quoted from Colsond3:

    AL legs, however, have an abnormal 2 1/2” spacing between the leg bolts, from center to center.

    You had me so excited for a second there, but now I'm more confused. My Gamatron came with two regular legs and two legs with a 2 1/2" spacing on the holes (and only six leg bolts )

    Just went to look at them though, and they aren't ribbed, and are only 28" long. So I'm still confused.

    #7 9 months ago
    Quoted from phil-lee:

    I have been fortunate that all the legs were OEM. However,I put a new set of 27 inch Williams on a Gottlieb and liked the lower stance. I would like to lower all my machines, buts that another subject.

    Some games definitely sit better with different legs on them, especially Gottlieb Premier games. Those things tend to sit 5 feet off the ground and up to your chest while you flip.

    #8 9 months ago

    Do I see "Ghosting" on that AL where other legs may have been at one time?

    #9 9 months ago
    Quoted from phil-lee:

    Do I see "Ghosting" on that AL where other legs may have been at one time?

    I see what you did there.

    #10 9 months ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    My Gamatron came with two regular legs and two legs with a 2 1/2" spacing on the holes (and only six leg bolts )
    Just went to look at them though, and they aren't ribbed, and are only 28" long. So I'm still confused.

    Gamatron is Pinstar, not AL. But I can’t say for sure which legs go with Gamatron. Hopefully that’s the purpose of this thread. So we get definitive answers.

    #11 9 months ago
    Quoted from phil-lee:

    However,I put a new set of 27 inch Williams on a Gottlieb and liked the lower stance.

    So all Williams SS games, at least late 70’s and early 80’s, had 27” legs? And non-ribbed?

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    #12 9 months ago

    WPC 28 1/2” full rib. Also Bally alphanum and DMD?

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    #13 9 months ago

    31” non-ribbed...?

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    #14 9 months ago
    Quoted from Colsond3:

    Gamatron is Pinstar, not AL. But I can’t say for sure which legs go with Gamatron. Hopefully that’s the purpose of this thread. So we get definitive answers.

    It's a conversion kit for early bally/stern, so whatever they had would be 'correct'. These two 28" legs with 2.5" bolt spacing definitely don't fit, and I don't know what the hell they might be for

    Quoted from Colsond3:

    31” non-ribbed...?

    Gottlieb EM?

    #15 9 months ago

    I'm a stickler for the correct legs and even leg bolts on the games...

    John

    #16 9 months ago

    Atari...28 1/2” non-ribbed.

    I believe black out of the factory on all Atari games. I have chrome on right now, original black legs are off for powdercoating.

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    #17 9 months ago
    Quoted from Dayhuff:

    I'm a stickler for the correct legs and even leg bolts on the games...
    John

    So you love it when people give you a handful of these when you pick up a game…

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    #18 9 months ago
    Quoted from Colsond3:

    So you love it when people give you a handful of these when you pick up a game…

    Ha ha........yeah so I can throw them right in the trash.

    John

    #19 9 months ago

    Pretty sure my PZ has the wrong legs - no ribs - but in 5 years I haven't been sufficiently motivated to take action to correct it. I do swap out bolts when they are wrong.

    the WPC style legs are also on my SWE1 and I think that's correct for Pin2k.

    -Rob
    -visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync combiner kit

    #20 9 months ago

    Some legs you just can't get correct replacements for, especially a lot of older Williams games, and rarely show up for sale used, so sometimes you just gotta make do.

    Pretty amazing these are available though. For a one year run of games.

    https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CABP-LEGS

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    #21 9 months ago

    And 24 7/8”....odd size. I’ve never even seen those before.

    #22 9 months ago

    Fits the "styling of the 60s cabinet" starting with Darts. Only used for about a year. Thing is, those games usually have the correct legs on them.

    Can't get any reproductions of Williams legs prior to that and several after that. Now if you have a Gottlieb instead, you're all set.

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    #23 9 months ago
    Quoted from Colsond3:

    31” non-ribbed...?

    I have 4 of these 31" chrome non-ribbed from a Williams Laser Cue I bought. I don't know if they are correct. Instead of having to jack up the leg levelers on one of my pins I like real steep I put a pair of these on the back. Works great.

    #24 9 months ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    Fits the "styling of the 60s cabinet" starting with Darts. Only used for about a year. Thing is, those games usually have the correct legs on them.
    Can't get any reproductions of Williams legs prior to that and several after that. Now if you have a Gottlieb instead, you're all set.

    Might be the same legs used on Williams shuffle alleys.

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    #25 9 months ago

    I actually never knew United and Williams were in bed together.

    #26 9 months ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    I actually never knew United and Williams were in bed together.

    Yup. Williams kept the United name on their shuffle alleys up to the early 80's I believe.

    #27 9 months ago

    Looks like the same Williams coin doors also.

    #28 9 months ago

    Wrong legs on a game really bug me so I always source correct.

    Are all classic Stern legs, non ribbed, with kind of a factory silver powdercoating?

    Also the amount of woodrails that have incorrect legs is huge!

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    #29 9 months ago
    Quoted from Colsond3:

    Sega 31”, no rib. Are they all black?

    Hmmm I best check this out, I was planning on buying a new set of black legs from STERN for my Goldeneye restore.
    I assumed the legs would be the same, but I best check they will fit before ordering.

    #30 9 months ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    Some legs you just can't get correct replacements for, especially a lot of older Williams games, and rarely show up for sale used, so sometimes you just gotta make do.
    Pretty amazing these are available though. For a one year run of games.
    https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CABP-LEGS

    Midway used something very similar on their vacuum gun games.

    #31 9 months ago

    If enthusiasts are annoyed with legs, stop encouraging new owners from using powder coat, off color paint schemes, and chrome. Especially, when they are using the wrong type of legs in the first place out of lack of knowledge, particularly EMs. It decreases the resale value, the game will play incorrectly, and it looks like crap.

    It is also, pretty sad when the front of the legs are polished and shiny, and the back of the legs are full of rust.
    I recently saw this along with a full chromed coin EM coin door, but the inside was all rusted to hell, including the coin returns.
    The owner did not seem to happy to find out he spent a lot of money chroming the wrong type of legs to match his coin door, and yet the rust was all over the back side anyway?

    Mechanics are more important than cosmetics in ALL games, definitively.
    If doing a restoration, people should do a bit of research beforehand and actually finish the job, not do things lazily or not check others work if they opt to have someone else do it for them.

    #32 9 months ago
    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    Are all classic Stern legs, non ribbed, with kind of a factory silver powdercoating?

    Yup...factory legs for Classic Stern games were all 28 1/2”, non-ribbed with a gray/silver color.

    #33 9 months ago

    I have the right legs on my machine.

    I have the left legs on it too.

    #34 9 months ago
    Quoted from MEuRaH:

    I have the right legs on my machine.
    I have the left legs on it too.

    mike_m beat you to it in Post #5 above...so you don’t have a leg to stand on.

    #35 9 months ago
    Quoted from J85M:

    Hmmm I best check this out, I was planning on buying a new set of black legs from STERN for my Goldeneye restore.
    I assumed the legs would be the same, but I best check they will fit before ordering.

    I’ve never owned a Goldeneye, but I’ve had quite a few Sega games. I think my BF had ribbed legs, but I’m not sure if they were correct.

    Stern legs on new games are full-ribbed, and 28 1/2”. (My old MET below, which I bought with low plays from a guy that bought it NIB).

    I would check your Goldeneye and see where the leg bolt receivers are situated. WPC games also use 28 1/2 inch, but as you can see on my BSD next to the Frankenstein, the leg bolt receivers on MSF are further up the cabinet. Hence the 31” legs. And both games are relatively still the same height for play.

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    #36 9 months ago
    Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

    It decreases the resale value, the game will play incorrectly, and it looks like crap.

    Other than “playing incorrectly” somehow, assuming you mean the wrong height, the rest is a matter of opinion. I don’t think there is anything wrong with powdercoating if that is your preference, or if your original legs are rusted or in horrible shape. Powder makes them look brand new.

    Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

    polished and shiny, and the back of the legs are full of rust.
    I recently saw this along with a full chromed coin EM coin door, but the inside was all rusted to hell, including the coin returns.

    In my experience, a ton of people don’t refurbish the back legs, given that they are usually tucked away and not seen in a lineup. But I couldn’t agree more. If you are going to refurbish or restore legs and the coin door, do the whole thing.

    #37 9 months ago

    Anyone know what the correct legs are for a Baywatch?

    #38 9 months ago
    Quoted from SirScott:

    Anyone know what the correct legs are for a Baywatch?

    Right from the manual on IPDB...30 1/4” but look like they are supposed to be full-ribbed legs.

    So perhaps the 31” on my Frank are a hair long/not correct? Now I’ll have to dig out my manual.

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    #39 9 months ago

    Don’t really care about style as long as they are the correct height.

    I hate playing a game that’s up to my armpits or down to my knees.

    #41 9 months ago

    That is good...pics below for reference. So the legs on Frank are 30 1/2”, but the manual refers to 30 1/4” similar to Baywatch, which is interesting.

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    #42 9 months ago

    Colson, if you do not remove those plastic things from between your cabs and legs someday you will sorry.

    #43 9 months ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Colson, if you do not remove those plastic things from between your cabs and legs someday you will sorry.

    Why is that? I don’t put them on cabs with decals....for those I properly use the Stern metal standoff protectors.

    Some people on this site love bashing the plastic protectors. But tell me, how would a piece of plastic do more damage to a cabinet than the metal legs themselves? That makes absolutely NO sense. If people don’t like the aesthetics of them, that is their opinion and I can at least appreciate that.

    I have taken a ton of legs off games with these protectors, with no damage to the cabinet at all. Even after years. On the contrary, I have picked up several games with just the metal legs attached that had severe damage from the legs digging into the cabinets, being shifted around and being over-tightened.

    #44 9 months ago

    Thought you had decals on. Sorry.

    #45 9 months ago

    I would love to see some of this info preserved over at pinwiki. http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_Leg_Guide is basically a skeleton of info right now.

    #46 9 months ago
    Quoted from jeffc:

    I would love to see some of this info preserved over at pinwiki. http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_Leg_Guide is basically a skeleton of info right now.

    Good idea. When I have some time, I’ll transfer the bulk of the information over from here and the flippers site.

    #47 9 months ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Thought you had decals on. Sorry.

    No worries. For decaled cabs as I said, I agree. I don’t think Sega put out any games that had decaled cabinets.

    I’ve just seen and heard other people making those comments as to painted cabs with the plastic protectors, but it’s never backed up with any sensical or logical argument. Plastic certainly cannot do more damage to a cab than metal would.

    #48 9 months ago

    I may be in the minority, but whether the game has the exact correct legs is not an actual concern of mine.

    As long as I can get the machine leveled and it's at the right height, I'm good. I do like the legs to match, so 4 correct ones or 4 incorrect ones that are identical I'm happy.

    There are lots of things to worry about in life and this isn't one for me.

    Robert

    #49 9 months ago
    Quoted from Colsond3:

    Stern legs on new games are full-ribbed, and 28 1/2”.

    This is incorrect. Check that length again. They are 30-9/16", although I believe Stern documents them at 30-1/2"

    #50 9 months ago

    Sega is another can of worms.......

    Early Sega legs are documented as 30-1/4", but are actually 30-7/16". The rib is there, but it is not as pronounced as on current Stern machines. The tool that made these legs is long gone. If you need to replace the legs on an early Sega machine your only option is to use Stern legs. Exactly when the switch from the older style to the newer style was made I do not know, but it was sometime during Sega's run.

    To be sure your early Sega machine has the correct original legs, check for this sticker on the inside of the leg. This picture is taken of the leg on my documented HUO Baywatch.

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