I don't own one but I do have all 10 fingers.

We have a powermatic 3000 wired to 3 phase.

I’ve had many over the years. I find the guard and kickback fingers get in the way of your cuts. If you are tight to the fence, it won’t kick back. Just make sure you have a push stick handy for small cuts. I currently have a 10” Bosch

Are you looking for a small, portable one or a larger, full sized one? I don't own one but I have access to one at a cabinet shop. It has a table built around it such that I can easily cut 4 x 8 sheets of anything.

Delta Unisaw with Biesemeyer fence. Portable table saws are an accident waiting to happen.
Shop estate sales if u don't want to spend for new.

Delta 10” belt driven contractor saw, I guess it’s about 20+ years old now. I don’t use the blade guard or riving knife, blocks the view.

Yes. Rockwell contractor 10" saw that's probably from the mid 70s. Guide and table extensions for cutting paneling which I don't use very often.

Nope. A router suits my needs.

Two. And in response to Buzz yeah, one finger has a 45 angled tip.

I have a very small Craftsman that sounds every bit as dangerous as your Mikata. If I was going to buy new, I'd look at the Rigid and DeWalt portable contractor models if a full sized table doesn't meet your needs.

Old restored Craftsman 113 with cast extension wings, delta T3 fence and zero clearance insert with micro jig splitter. Works phenomenal. Fence was more than the saw.

here's radial saw built like a tank in the 1940's , solid with no plastic anywhere

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Dewalt contractors, has reasonable safety features (removed some on mine) but very dependable and not the lightest but not bad either. I have an extended table that came with it that works well with full sheets with minimal fuss.

I just inherited a Powermatic table saw with fences and other accessories, haven’t used it yet but seems high quality.

My dad has a vintage radial arm saw similar to the dewalt contractor pictured above. It’s mounted to a trailer to use at construction sites, and has an 18” blade. That thing is super loud like a jet and would scare the heck out of me when I was a kid.

My thoughts - I have a table saw and I think it is the most versatile saw a woodworker can have. You can make TONS of cuts with a table saw! Saw Stop is amazing but very pricey. I removed the safety guards on my table saw because I think it blocks the view and don't like not being able to see where the material (and my fingers) are during the cut. Here is what I do to ensure safety:

- safety glasses ALWAYS
- visualize the cut before doing it
- make sure the blade is sharp
- make sure the material will slide smooth and tight to the fence
- utilize the push sticks well

The other thing I use is the "GRR-RIPPER" from MicroJig, which eliminates kickback when used with a push stick. Link: https://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper

I bought the GRR-RIPPER after getting a softball sized bruise on my stomach from a violent kickback. (It was worth it though, the hutch looked great!)

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I use nothing but "vintage" woodworking equipment - everything newer than the early 1960's is pretty much "junk" in my eyes. My table saw is from the 1950's and I can cut toothpicks on it. 100% true on every cut - and seriously I can make 8 or 10' long cuts (cutting a 32nd of an inch off a board) and once done I don't even need to use my joiner to finish my cuts. Best part is I paid like $50 for it 20 years ago at an auction.

As far as "safety features" on modern tools they are fine but typically they are in the way more than they help. Work safe and use your head and you don't need safety features offered on newer tools. I have been working around automotive tools and woodworking tools for over 50 years and the only time I ever got hurt is back in my younger "long hair" days when my ponytail got wrapped up in creeper wheel a couple of times. After the second time with that I decided it was time for short hair!

As far as handheld tools nothing but Dewalt cordless for me. I have about 30 using their 18 volt batteries and love every one of them. I have toyed with the idea of changing over to 20 volt platform but all my 18 volt stuff fits like a glove so I have decided against that for now.

There are only a few basic principles when operating a table saw

Dewalt handheld is not what it used to be. Porter cable seems pretty good, but Milwaukee tools I find are pretty good quality.

The delta unisaw is the king followed by a powermatic 66. Their fences and stability are really nice, you can balance a nickel on them starting it up.

I’ve got some nice other tools, powermatic Mortiser, delta 6” jointer, jet band saw, jet dc1200 dust collector, delta drill press and a lot of hand held power tools. Pinball has taken over my woodworking hobby. I am looking to sell my dust collector, jointer and mortiser.

Makita cordless are the best!

The Rockwell/Porter-Cable years were pretty good. After Rockwell sold them off, The Delta/Porter-Cable stuff remained good. Not always the best, but good.

I swore by Mikita for years then moved over to 18 volt Dewalt about 20 years ago and never looked back. I have only had a couple issues with my Dewalt tools and our local service center went above & beyond every time to take care of me. A few years back I went in with an issue with one of my 2 gallon 18 volt vacs that was like 4 year old. Told them we were headed out of town in a couple weeks and would like to have it to take on our trip because we used it exclusively for our RV. Guy behind the counter brings me out a new in box replacement and says "enjoy your trip". 3 years out beyond warranty & service like that sold me on Dewalt.

I don't think any of the "newer" cordless stuff is near as good as the older stuff so that was one of my reasons for not changing over to 20 volt platform a couple years back. I can't imagine what that change over would cost me anyway with 30+ tools using their 18 volt platform in my collection. We do have a couple 20 volt tools and I really don't like them any better anyway.

I use a Porter Cable. It's a 10" model on wheels sold at Lowes or Home Depot. The fence is the weak point. There's a bit of play so I have to use a square when clamping it down.

Otherwise works pretty well but I get kickback. Cut depth doesn't seem to matter so probably need a better blade. It always makes me jump but it has taught me to be very aware of where my bodily parts are before starting the cut!

Dude that’s great but its a Radal arm saw.

It sounds like I have the same one as Lermods.

Blade guards aren't a 100% guarantee of safety. My Dad actually cut his thumb on his saw because of the guard. (Well, technically it was his own fault because his fingers shouldn't have been that close) The board he was ripping got hung up on the guard. He tried to clear it with his thumb and in doing so somehow hit the blade.

Bottom line, safety is the responsibility of the operator. Before using a table saw be sure you know how it works and how to operate it safely. Your local library will likely have books on table saws and their usage. It only takes 1 mistake to have a pretty severe accident.

Self quote!

Also needed to add, a buddy of mine has a Bosch with pneumatic tires (mine are hard rubber), and his has a much better fence. Maybe 10 years old tho, so not sure if things are different now.

Can we digress and talk about chop saws? Have a 12" dewalt and have no real complaints. Want more capacity so thinking of going to sliding compound. The Bosch with the folding srm looks nice and doesn't need space bedhind it like others. Also looks like you can make custom zero cleance inserts. Anyone have that one?

I've had portable table saws and a radial arm saw. In the end I set up several tables/saw horses and do all my cuts with a 7 1/4" circular saw, a jigsaw and a router. Some day when my shop is bigger than my current setup I'll probably get an old full-size table saw but for now, this is the safest option for me. I can manipulate a circular saw much easier than a 4X8 sheet of plywood.

Shawn

I've had a Hitachi 10" sliding compound saw for 20 years, works fantastic. It's a workhorse for sure.

Bosch 4100 10" saw on a gravity rise stand. excellent small saw and the stand allows it to be easily moved while being incredibly stable. Plus you can store it folded vertically for a smaller footprint.

A healthy fear of the table saw blade isn't a bad thing to have.

I have a Rigid jobsite table saw that I absolutely love.

True. I’ve been using a portable for 20 years with my job.. still have all my digits

Likely due to the small tabletop. People will still try to breakdown sheet goods on a portable. it works just fine if you use correct auxiliary support but if you don't support the sheet well it will flex which will lead to binding, and a high chance of kickback. A half sheet is easily manageable solo on a portable, but anything larger needs support and better yet support and a second person.

There's nothing wrong with portables.

Saw stop.

Saw stop is nice. Expensive, and you need to replace the sensor after it hits what It thinks is flesh

They also tend to be over sensitive (not necessarily a bad thing when its a false positive, rather than being conservative and chewing a finger) with wet woods. Too wet of a piece can fool it into going off.
But if you are concerned about that you can bypass the sensor temporarily and cut in "normal saw mode" w/o the safety.

Seconded. I have a pair of GRRRIPPERs and love them. Microjig makes some good stuff.

They’re not too bad as long as you have one that is stable and has some weight to it.

There are some small model table saws that are literally a spinning death blade in a plastic box (such as Ryobi). Don’t use those ever. They can easily catch the work piece and leap into the air.

I have this guy...

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It’s great for a contractor saw. I only use it for smaller cuts though, since I have a Festool tracksaw for the big stuff.

1. no one on Pinside cuts wet wood, lol.

(if they are building a deck, or some other "wet wood" project, they are using a chop saw, not a $$$$ cabinet saw)

2 the SawStop has a built in "wet wood" detector.

If you put a piece of wet wood on the table, and slide it up to the non-spinning blade, the lights flash to inform you the wood is wet.

3. You just turn the key if you need to cut conductive stock.

I cut 1/2" and 1" aluminum plate all the time on my Sawstop. The Sawstop reminds you that the material is conductive.

4. In the decade that I've owned the Sawstop (it replaced my Powermatic), I've NEVER ONCE TRIPPED THE SAFETY MECH.

It came with a spare mech, and I've never used it.

Never use a table saw that does not have a riving knife installed.

If the stock touches the back of the blade, your hand (or face) is history.

You can get an aftermarket riving knife for just about any quality saw - use it!

Agreed. I take the guard off but not the riving knife. They are actually a pain to get off in most models I’ve used... so like you said, don’t

Just get the Sawstop and forget the price.

It's only $300 more than a Powermatic, and it heavier, smoother running and obviously safer.

Even if you only have a 20% co-pay on your insurance, EACH finger is $60,000 to reattach.

So you could buy 4 Sawstops for the co-pay for just one finger (let alone if you cut off a few).

Don't pay internet list price for the Sawstop.

Go to your local power tool store and save a ton by paying cash.

They will also throw in a bunch of extras, so it's super worth it.

I made this mistake once. It makes you a quick learner.

Yeah, "I'm super careful" but I once had a 2x4 kick back instantly - it simply was gone from the shop.

I looked at my fingers (yep, still there), I looked around the shop (wood was gone).

Turns out it shot through the metal garage door and was laying out on the driveway.

I went to the power tool store and bought a riving knife kit the next day. Guys at the store were incredulous "You have a table without a knife? Are you crazy????"

"It came with a bunch of other guards but no knife" I said sheepishly....at least I gave them a story to tell.

Yes, kickback can be deadly. They demonstrated kickback at our school. Knocked a chunk out of the brick wall.

With that being said, a portable doesn’t have the same amperage as shop saws. Not as harsh if you do get kickback. I know you recommend the saw stop, but for hobby is it really worth dropping that kind of cash?