(Topic ID: 276763)

Do you guys have any layouts that you recommend? Any talented architec

By Ianishaney345

2 years ago

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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by jgreene
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    #1 2 years ago

    We are starting the process of building a house and beginning to look at plans. We are shooting for a walkout and it looks like the spot that we chose will work. I have my run of the basement! Yes, awesome wife alert! The goals are a half bath, music room, movie/theater room, a storage room, and space for 10 - 15 pins. Do you guys have any layouts that you recommend? Any talented architects or builders on here?

    Added 17 months ago:

    Top Tips For Sewing Curved Seams

    Curved shapes are everywhere you look. In fact, most patterns are a combination of straight and curved lines. No experienced sewists can claim themselves as a person who knows sewing if he or she cannot do curved seams with ease.

    If you are new and have mastered the straight lines, it’s time to move on. Check out my top tips below so that you can make curved seams perfectly. If you are looking for one of those, there is a list of a good sewing machine for beginners at  Craftsselection.com that is worth checking out.

    Make use of shorter stitches

    Any curve can be made by short enough straight lines. This holds true in all types of curves out there. Short stitches can also help in creating better quilting projects and make all curves look even.

    Making good curves is essential in making garments. You cannot sew sleeves or collars without them. Short stitches can also prevent some unwanted problems like fraying, wear, and tear, and split seams.

    Making shorter seams is time-consuming but worth it. Newbies haven’t had the skills as experienced seamstresses do. So it’s advisable to start small and slow. Stitch length can be adjusted on most of the modern machines.

    Mark the seam allowance when it lays flat

    Curves are hard to sew partly because they can easily stretch and warp. To prevent this from happening, before you start sewing, lay the piece that is supposed to be made into a curve shape flat on the table and mark the seam allowance carefully.

    If you do this right, you will always have a solid reference to follow as the piece goes through the sewing machine. If you need more support in keeping the curves from de-shaping, add a line of long stitches to hold the shape against the force of the sewing machine. For beginners, choose the best basic sewing machine which is simple and easy to use to start this project.

    If you worry that the stitches are not as stretchy as the fabric, a line of stay stitches will help keep them in place.

    How to deal with tight curves

    You are sewing tight curves?

    I have some tips that can help. Sooner or later, you will come across some curved lines so tight that moving the fabric alone is not enough to keep the needle in the right direction.

    When you feel hard to keep going, stop the machine while the needle is still down in the fabric and lift the presser foot up. Turn the fabric in the right direction.

    Some computerized sewing machines I know have a built-in up-down function that can come in handy for those who have to deal with tight curves often. It also has a lever that allows you to lift the presser foot with your knee, so you don’t have to take your hands or your eyes off the project.

    If you cannot afford these machines, I have some budget-friendly models that work well, see this article on List of Best Crafts and Sewing Products CraftsSelection.com  to find out.

    Make a small seam allowance.

    Lumpy seam allowance is the enemy of curved seams. While in other articles I will recommend following the instructions carefully, with this one, in my opinion, trimming down the allowance is the best way forward.

    The suitable width is a quarter inch. I find this much is enough to protect your project from fraying while keeping it from becoming bulky.

    Doing this sometimes required you to sacrifice your stay stitches. However, when your curves have been taken shape, there is no need to keep the stay stitching anymore.

    Notch the curves

    Another tip the keep the curves from lumpy seam allowance is to notch it.

    This process is basically cut out small triangles so when you turn the project, they don’t form a lump on the other side. Be careful not to get to close to the seams you have made, the point of leaving seam allowances is to prevent fraying.

    Removing tiny triangles are easy so you don’t have to worry about the techniques

    Concave curves don’t require that much complication. All you need to do is to make some simple slits on the seam allowance.

    Press them

    To make the curves look better, you should press them properly.

    Different types of curves will require different pressing techniques. A tailor ham is for pressing garments. This ham is nothing more than a pillow that can further shape the curves while you press it. Don’t even try to press this one against the iron, it will end up flat.

    For others, the steam iron is exactly what they need. If you are having a quilt project, feel free to press them with an iron and a large dose of steam.

    You see, there are so many types of curves and as many ways to press them. What you need to do before you press is to search for the best way to handle each type.

    Keep the right side up

    Extra fabric in your seams will ruin the perfect appearance of the curves. To avoid this problem, make sure the seam lines align with each other. Keep the convex side down so you can get the fabric out.

    I used to use a cover stitch machine to do the curved hems, it worked fantastically. Want to buy the best coverstitch sewing machine for yourself, check here https://craftsselection.com/best-coverstitch-machine-reviews/  to get the complete reviews.

    Use enough pins

    Sometimes I wish I had an extra pair of arms to keep my fabric in place. While that is not gonna happen, using pins is as helpful. Pins have been my best friends for years of sewing and they prove to be even more useful when it comes to curved seams. I recommend using long and sharp pins for the best result. Pinning along the lines but not into it. Even if you intend to use a cheap sewing machine for beginners or hand stitching to finish the job, make sure they are out of the way to avoid their sharp points.

    When you use pins, bear in mind that certain types of fabric require special kinds of pins. For example, silk is delicate so typical pins will leave holes on it.

    #2 2 years ago

    A couple of recommendations: If you’ll be connecting to sewer, and sewer elevation in the street is adequate, go with a 9 foot ceiling in the basement. Your half bath in the basement will cost less if you are directly under wet utilities on the main floor. Go with an oversized electrical panel (200 amp?) to make sure you have adequate power. Possibly an electrical sub panel for the Gameroom.

    Where are you located? Other recommendations may be region specific...

    #3 2 years ago
    Quoted from Ianishaney345:

    We are starting the process of building a house and beginning to look at plans. We are shooting for a walkout and it looks like the spot that we chose will work. I have my run of the basement! Yes, awesome wife alert! The goals are a half bath, music room, movie/theater room, a storage room, and space for 10 - 15 pins. Do you guys have any layouts that you recommend? Any talented architects or builders on here?

    Find someone local - at least in your state. You want someone who is familiar with the building code and idiosyncrasies of your area. An architect unfamiliar with your area will charge crazy money to research, or will just skip it entirely and you'll pay when thit builder has to Change everything

    #4 2 years ago
    Quoted from Steve_in_Escalon:

    9 foot ceiling in the basement.

    Couldn't agree more. It usually doesn't cost that much more and you don't get a second chance at it. Also, a good pin "module" size is 15' wide to allow for two rows of pins facing each other, room for players and circulation and to take the glass off. If you have 15 pins a 15'X22' should fit 16 pins, and if you have some space, I would allow for a little bit more. Another option is the long wall option, allow 32-33 inches per pin and 10' wide. Go wider if you want to have something else like foosball or superchex along the aisle. In a walkout, this is generally better on the side buried in the ground, no windows to contend with.

    The buried wall is also a natural place for the theater too. The theater space should be about 17 feet deep by at least 12 foot wide. You can go to a 15 deep but most of the home theater experts will tell you that is not deep enough (with an eight foot ceiling, so here the 9 foot ceiling will help too). Since you are building new, you might look into recessing the front row of the theater but you may find that is more costly that it is worth.

    Since you are building a music room, I would consider putting an egress window in the room, so it can also be considered a legal bedroom down the line. Also because of that, if you can swing a shower stall in the bathroom, I would consider that. Minimal cost and space (going from a 3X6 foot to a 5X7 foot is only 17 more square feet). If the budget doesn't allow, rough the plumbing in now.

    Finally, for the storage room, a standard closet module is 7 feet wide (2 foot shelf, 3 foot aisle, 2 foot shelf). I would put a 36" door into this space, and if you are planning on storing anything long (e.g. Christmas Tree), make sure you can maneuver it in and out.

    Good luck, share your plans here when they start coming together!

    #5 2 years ago

    Go for a ranch that way the basement is 1 to 1 with the first floor square footage. I also put r10 foam insulation under the slab and ran pex pipes for radiant heat. The insulation alone makes the basement far more comfortable in the winter.


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