(Topic ID: 210369)

Do I need a driver board for controlled LEDs in Harlem Globetrotter

By jetmechinnc

6 years ago


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  • 27 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by wayout440
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

I recently traded a pin for Bally's Harlem Globetrotter pin. I installed various LEDs that I had on hand for the back box and GI lights and really brightened up the game. I then ordered the premium non-ghosting LEDs from Cointaker for all the controlled lights in the back box and under the play field. After looking up some parts on Marco Specialties website, I saw the Ultimate Bally & Stern LED lamp drive board. Do I need to buy this as well so the controlled lamps will not flicker? Isn't this the reason for buying non ghosting LEDs? I figure I should get the LEDs in the mail in about a week, but would like to have everything ready for install when I do. I never had a game that required something special for LED installs, not even my former EM. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Jason

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#3 6 years ago

OK, bummer, well whats another $120 for a game I'm not even sure I'll keep, lol

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

The Siegecraft adapter set is an excellent low-cost solution.

Dang, just ordered the new board from Marco. Could have save $70. Well that back box will have some nice new components. Former owner already put in a rebuilt MPU with Chipset eliminating need for a battery as well as the rotten dog solenoid driver board and a rotten dog power supply board above the transformer.

All I need now is to change out all the old displays to LEDs and new sound card and the whole backbox will be new, even though they seem to working OK! After I paint up the spare cabinet that came with the deal, and transfer everything, it will look nicer.

By the way Joe, you live were I grew up! I went to Owen J Roberts High School back in the 1980s!

Jason

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from mikat11:

I don't mean to nitpick,but the back glass colors look washed out using those bright white LEDS. Warm white with a frosted dome and some yellow for the lettering at the top would give it a more even glow.

I'm gonna try some different things on the back glass. In this pic its warm LEDs at the lettering, cool white and blue for the guys/planet, with orange for the basket balls and twinkle lights at the bally sign and star symbol. .

Quoted from ForceFlow:

That's not the only option now.

Another option I didn't see or know exist. At least I'll now know next time once I part with this game and get another one to fill it's place. Trying to find that one more pin that is a total keeper. I have my 3 that I'll never sell, just need one more cool pin from my youth.

#18 6 years ago

I put the Alltek board in and added the jumper wire as instructed and the game’s controlled lights now work perfectly! It looked horrible with that flicker even with the nonghosting LEDs below the playfield. Thank you for the all the input everyone! Now the game looks just as good as my other pins. I decided on domed cool white on playfield with a couple blue by the pop bumpers, cointakers pop bumper lights that have six up and down glowing white LEDs , really light up the entire pop bumpers. Back box has a few blue LEDs and a few orange for the basketballs, cool white everywhere else and twinkle lights at the Bally and star sign. I’m happy with it. Next up is new LED displays that should be here this week from Marco!

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#25 6 years ago
Quoted from rufessor:

The game looks like it’s in amazing condition! Are your inserts sunk at all?

There are a couple sunk inserts, very minor, the worst ones are the L/H outlane and the slam dunk. Problem I have is the game has the original factory mylar on it, so the play field is 99% perfect. Only wear is between the two L/H flippers and a minor wear on the R/H flipper lane. Don't want to peel up the mylar and chance of ruining the perfect artwork. Maybe I could just cut out the mylar at the dished inserts and fill them with either clear coat or crazy glue as I've read. If I could pop them out and sand them smooth, I don't know where I'd get new stickers for the inserts. Was easier to do on my Grand Prix pinball, no graphics on the inserts, plus no mylar.

Quoted from mrm_4:

LED on left compared to the 47

Is that a warm white or a cool white LED? The warm to me really gives a tone of anincandescent bulb, but depending on the brand/type, it will be brighter for sure, but so much cooler, no more warping of plastics or peeling backglass paint!

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