Yes, you will need an Alltek lamp driver board to run those LED's in the inserts on older Solid Stae Bally machines.

You should be good with just the non ghosting LED's. You could also just buy the cheaper LED's and then install the new lamp board and that will fix the ghosting issue altogether. All bally pinballs of this era will have ghosting in all the controlled lights. I would just get this if you dont plan on keeping the game cheaper solution.

http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_category=15&controller=category&id_lang=1

Joe

The Siegecraft adapter set is an excellent low-cost solution.

Solder 470 ohm resisters across the lamp sockets for a low cost solution.

Note: the 470 ohm resistors can also be soldered on the lamp driver module.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-resistors-to-the-aux-lamp-driver-to-eliminate-led-flicker

That's not the only option now.

$90 here: http://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

Or the siegecraft boards, or manually soldering resistors, as mentioned above.

I don't mean to nitpick,but the back glass colors look washed out using those bright white LEDS. Warm white with a frosted dome and some yellow for the lettering at the top would give it a more even glow.

That's personal preference. The best natural color for a classic Bally backglass like this is to skip LEDs and use incandescent bulbs. If you must use LEDs, use all warm white or sunlight bulbs,.

That's the route I took with my Mata Hari. $3 & 45 minutes to do all controlled lights under the playfield.

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I didn't read this thread very closely but I'm just wondering if you do realize that certain lights in the game are supposed to "flicker" or "glow" if you will (I'm not sure how to describe it) such as the pop bumpers and game over lights etc.... in attract mode?

John

non ghosting leds still flicker in bally controlled lamps. also, the siegecraft adapters may still leave some sockets flickering, as in power play, etc. it doesnt fix all lamps for sure.
also, a suggestion, use frosted cool white in gi and inserts. keeps the art colors looking as they are supposed to and not to dull not to bright. the frosted cool white from pinball life or marcos look superb.

Hey Matt, did you also put LED's in the backboard? If so how do they look and what bulbs?
Bill

The game looks like it’s in amazing condition! Are your inserts sunk at all?

Went with Comet Warm White Frosted. No resistors on the controlled back there just left a couple of 47s. I want to play around with different colors when I get the game back together. (Completely torn apart and sanded down to repaint) I'm still debating if I want to leave the 47s in the back or keep looking for different color LEDs. The pic has the LEDs before I took it apart.

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I think it would look best without colors....experiment with different whites, but please no exotic colors. Color temps probably somewhere between 2000K and 2500K would be worth investigating.

Agreed nothing crazy, just warmer colors to try and match the 47s original look. Sunlight, yellow, orange maybe. Some of the problem I'm finding is compensating for how bright LEDs are. Im also being way too picky over something pretty trivial.... #firstworldproblems

LED on left compared to the 47

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I added LEDs to a bally kings of steel, the bulbs were ghosting so I started adding resistors but noticed after adding less than 10 resistors it stopped ghosting and worked as it did with regular bulbs so I never installed any more.

I imagine after getting close to 10 the circuit board saying "alright alright I get it!" haha

It's a warm white frosted from Comet.
It's crazy how your eyes relate the color alone versus a side by side. The 47 basically looks orange but looking at it alone looks whitish-yellow.

The characteristics of LEDs behind backglass art that tend to be problematic are threefold: color, brightness, and direction. The ideal LED in my opinion would address all of those.:
A proper color temperature that increases the contrast of the art.
A proper brighness- too bright washes out the details, so that almost as bad as too dim
A spread that avoids hot spots, more illumination to dead areas between bulbs.

IMO, there are some decent LEDs out there but we have yet to develop the perfect LED. One idea I have would be to modify the backboard with RGB/White LED sheet. These can be programmed with a microcontroller to dial in the color and brightness, while filling in the spaces between bulbs for a nice even illumination (almost as if one bulb lighting the entire glass)

Sorry I've strayed so far off topic....carry on

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