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(Topic ID: 210369)

Do I need a driver board for controlled LEDs in Harlem Globetrotter


By jetmechinnc

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 27 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by wayout440
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 2 years ago

I recently traded a pin for Bally's Harlem Globetrotter pin. I installed various LEDs that I had on hand for the back box and GI lights and really brightened up the game. I then ordered the premium non-ghosting LEDs from Cointaker for all the controlled lights in the back box and under the play field. After looking up some parts on Marco Specialties website, I saw the Ultimate Bally & Stern LED lamp drive board. Do I need to buy this as well so the controlled lamps will not flicker? Isn't this the reason for buying non ghosting LEDs? I figure I should get the LEDs in the mail in about a week, but would like to have everything ready for install when I do. I never had a game that required something special for LED installs, not even my former EM. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Jason

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#2 2 years ago

Yes, you will need an Alltek lamp driver board to run those LED's in the inserts on older Solid Stae Bally machines.

#3 2 years ago

OK, bummer, well whats another $120 for a game I'm not even sure I'll keep, lol

#4 2 years ago

You should be good with just the non ghosting LED's. You could also just buy the cheaper LED's and then install the new lamp board and that will fix the ghosting issue altogether. All bally pinballs of this era will have ghosting in all the controlled lights. I would just get this if you dont plan on keeping the game cheaper solution.

http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_category=15&controller=category&id_lang=1

Joe

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from cyroute:

I would just get this

The Siegecraft adapter set is an excellent low-cost solution.

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

The Siegecraft adapter set is an excellent low-cost solution.

Dang, just ordered the new board from Marco. Could have save $70. Well that back box will have some nice new components. Former owner already put in a rebuilt MPU with Chipset eliminating need for a battery as well as the rotten dog solenoid driver board and a rotten dog power supply board above the transformer.

All I need now is to change out all the old displays to LEDs and new sound card and the whole backbox will be new, even though they seem to working OK! After I paint up the spare cabinet that came with the deal, and transfer everything, it will look nicer.

By the way Joe, you live were I grew up! I went to Owen J Roberts High School back in the 1980s!

Jason

#7 2 years ago

Solder 470 ohm resisters across the lamp sockets for a low cost solution.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from mikat11:

Solder 470 ohm resisters across the lamp sockets for a low cost solution.

Note: the 470 ohm resistors can also be soldered on the lamp driver module.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-resistors-to-the-aux-lamp-driver-to-eliminate-led-flicker

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from Gnatty:

Yes, you will need an Alltek lamp driver board to run those LED's in the inserts on older Solid Stae Bally machines.

That's not the only option now.

$90 here: http://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

Or the siegecraft boards, or manually soldering resistors, as mentioned above.

#10 2 years ago

I don't mean to nitpick,but the back glass colors look washed out using those bright white LEDS. Warm white with a frosted dome and some yellow for the lettering at the top would give it a more even glow.

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from mikat11:

I don't mean to nitpick,but the back glass colors look washed out using those bright white LEDS. Warm white with a frosted dome and some yellow for the lettering at the top would give it a more even glow.

I'm gonna try some different things on the back glass. In this pic its warm LEDs at the lettering, cool white and blue for the guys/planet, with orange for the basket balls and twinkle lights at the bally sign and star symbol. .

Quoted from ForceFlow:

That's not the only option now.

Another option I didn't see or know exist. At least I'll now know next time once I part with this game and get another one to fill it's place. Trying to find that one more pin that is a total keeper. I have my 3 that I'll never sell, just need one more cool pin from my youth.

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from mikat11:

I don't mean to nitpick,but the back glass colors look washed out using those bright white LEDS. Warm white with a frosted dome and some yellow for the lettering at the top would give it a more even glow.

That's personal preference. The best natural color for a classic Bally backglass like this is to skip LEDs and use incandescent bulbs. If you must use LEDs, use all warm white or sunlight bulbs,.

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

That's not the only option now.
$90 here: http://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html
Or the siegecraft boards, or manually soldering resistors, as mentioned above.

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from mikat11:

Solder 470 ohm resisters across the lamp sockets for a low cost solution.

That's the route I took with my Mata Hari. $3 & 45 minutes to do all controlled lights under the playfield.

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#15 2 years ago

I didn't read this thread very closely but I'm just wondering if you do realize that certain lights in the game are supposed to "flicker" or "glow" if you will (I'm not sure how to describe it) such as the pop bumpers and game over lights etc.... in attract mode?

John

#16 2 years ago

non ghosting leds still flicker in bally controlled lamps. also, the siegecraft adapters may still leave some sockets flickering, as in power play, etc. it doesnt fix all lamps for sure.
also, a suggestion, use frosted cool white in gi and inserts. keeps the art colors looking as they are supposed to and not to dull not to bright. the frosted cool white from pinball life or marcos look superb.

#17 2 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

That's the route I took with my Mata Hari. $3 & 45 minutes to do all controlled lights under the playfield.

Hey Matt, did you also put LED's in the backboard? If so how do they look and what bulbs?
Bill

#18 2 years ago

I put the Alltek board in and added the jumper wire as instructed and the game’s controlled lights now work perfectly! It looked horrible with that flicker even with the nonghosting LEDs below the playfield. Thank you for the all the input everyone! Now the game looks just as good as my other pins. I decided on domed cool white on playfield with a couple blue by the pop bumpers, cointakers pop bumper lights that have six up and down glowing white LEDs , really light up the entire pop bumpers. Back box has a few blue LEDs and a few orange for the basketballs, cool white everywhere else and twinkle lights at the Bally and star sign. I’m happy with it. Next up is new LED displays that should be here this week from Marco!

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#19 2 years ago

The game looks like it’s in amazing condition! Are your inserts sunk at all?

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from billv45:

Hey Matt, did you also put LED's in the backboard? If so how do they look and what bulbs?
Bill

Went with Comet Warm White Frosted. No resistors on the controlled back there just left a couple of 47s. I want to play around with different colors when I get the game back together. (Completely torn apart and sanded down to repaint) I'm still debating if I want to leave the 47s in the back or keep looking for different color LEDs. The pic has the LEDs before I took it apart.

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#21 2 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I'm still debating if I want to leave the 47s in the back or keep looking for different color LEDs.

I think it would look best without colors....experiment with different whites, but please no exotic colors. Color temps probably somewhere between 2000K and 2500K would be worth investigating.

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I think it would look best without colors....experiment with different whites, but please no exotic colors. Color temps probably somewhere between 2000K and 2500K would be worth investigating.

Agreed nothing crazy, just warmer colors to try and match the 47s original look. Sunlight, yellow, orange maybe. Some of the problem I'm finding is compensating for how bright LEDs are. Im also being way too picky over something pretty trivial.... #firstworldproblems

LED on left compared to the 47

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#23 2 years ago

I added LEDs to a bally kings of steel, the bulbs were ghosting so I started adding resistors but noticed after adding less than 10 resistors it stopped ghosting and worked as it did with regular bulbs so I never installed any more.

#24 2 years ago
Quoted from crlush:

I added LEDs to a bally kings of steel, the bulbs were ghosting so I started adding resistors but noticed after adding less than 10 resistors it stopped ghosting and worked as it did with regular bulbs so I never installed any more.

I imagine after getting close to 10 the circuit board saying "alright alright I get it!" haha

#25 2 years ago
Quoted from rufessor:

The game looks like it’s in amazing condition! Are your inserts sunk at all?

There are a couple sunk inserts, very minor, the worst ones are the L/H outlane and the slam dunk. Problem I have is the game has the original factory mylar on it, so the play field is 99% perfect. Only wear is between the two L/H flippers and a minor wear on the R/H flipper lane. Don't want to peel up the mylar and chance of ruining the perfect artwork. Maybe I could just cut out the mylar at the dished inserts and fill them with either clear coat or crazy glue as I've read. If I could pop them out and sand them smooth, I don't know where I'd get new stickers for the inserts. Was easier to do on my Grand Prix pinball, no graphics on the inserts, plus no mylar.

Quoted from mrm_4:

LED on left compared to the 47

Is that a warm white or a cool white LED? The warm to me really gives a tone of anincandescent bulb, but depending on the brand/type, it will be brighter for sure, but so much cooler, no more warping of plastics or peeling backglass paint!

#26 2 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Is that a warm white or a cool white LED? The warm to me really gives a tone of anincandescent bulb, but depending on the brand/type, it will be brighter for sure, but so much cooler, no more warping of plastics or peeling backglass paint!

It's a warm white frosted from Comet.
It's crazy how your eyes relate the color alone versus a side by side. The 47 basically looks orange but looking at it alone looks whitish-yellow.

#27 2 years ago

The characteristics of LEDs behind backglass art that tend to be problematic are threefold: color, brightness, and direction. The ideal LED in my opinion would address all of those.:
A proper color temperature that increases the contrast of the art.
A proper brighness- too bright washes out the details, so that almost as bad as too dim
A spread that avoids hot spots, more illumination to dead areas between bulbs.

IMO, there are some decent LEDs out there but we have yet to develop the perfect LED. One idea I have would be to modify the backboard with RGB/White LED sheet. These can be programmed with a microcontroller to dial in the color and brightness, while filling in the spaces between bulbs for a nice even illumination (almost as if one bulb lighting the entire glass)

Sorry I've strayed so far off topic....carry on

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