(Topic ID: 121749)

do coil sleeves work better...


By ccotenj

4 years ago



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  • 37 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by ccotenj
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    #1 4 years ago

    when they are actually IN the coil?

    noticed this while working on a flipper rebuild today... i think i should probably address it...

    image.jpg

    #5 4 years ago
    Quoted from ChrisHibler:

    Ya they do.
    Fairly common with that type of sleeve, which has an offset lip for the coil bracket.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://www.Team-EM.com
    http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
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    one thing that i find amusing is that this will be the first metal sleeve i ever successfully extracted from a coil, and it's because it basically fell out all on its own....

    i've got a few newies somewhere in the "box of sleeves"... plunger and coil should be fine, it was clanging plenty loud last time it was played a week ago...

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    Make sure you use enough postage...

    this oughta work...

    image.jpg

    #16 4 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    This your Pro Football?
    That coil sleeve shouldn't be metal for that era game (and judging by the coil label, looks like it may have been an after-market replacement coil or such, which may explain why).
    But the sleeve is mounted upside down anyway. Perhaps when the replacement coil was installed, it got goofed up. The 'lip' end of the sleeve should go towards the coil stop, and the other end of the sleeve should stick through the coil bracket (where the plunger is).

    yup, mine... i never went through this one, it was working and "shopped" when i got it... only thing ive ever done to this one is putz with the as stepper that advances the "ball down the field"... i'm finding a few other things under the hood now that i lifted it and am looking closer...

    nope it shouldn't... it should be a nylon one, and yup, it's upside down (and not "lipped" like a bell sleeve should be)... i'd wager you are correct on the coil replacement... we will find out when i get home from work today and make it "right"... hopefully i will not have to order a "correct" coil...

    Quoted from o-din:

    Oops. I forgot Pro-football has chimes and a bell.

    yup, another thing that makes it such a great game... even if i'm the only one who thinks its a great game...

    Quoted from boilerman:

    you are lucky, I always get those metal sleeves stuck in the coil and can not get them out. have to get a new coil.

    me too... i had to replace every solenoid coil (except the score reel ones) on that magic city, not one of them would give up the metal sleeve... i know some people manage to get them out, but i couldn't... i saved the old ones for bert, i'll let him struggle with them and see if he can do what i couldn't...

    Quoted from thedefog:

    They used metal sleeves on EM games? metal on metal?

    yea, back in the day, they were metal sleeved... and as boilerman noted, they suck, as they tend to be rather difficult to get out... but as df pointed out, they shouldn't be there on this vintage of game... they all should be nylon sleeves...

    Quoted from nick-the-greek:

    That's not the right sleeve for a 100 point bell. It should have a sleeve with a stop part way along, same as used in the chime boxes.
    There is no coil stop, the top bracket has a hole for the plunger to go through, and the sleeve goes through it also.
    sleeves bell.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

    yup... fortunately i have a large stash of coil sleeves... they are good "fillers" if you need to get to the $100 mark on an order...

    #17 4 years ago

    it was the correct coil (a-5194)... interesting looking wrapper, haven't seen one like this before (not that i've seen a zillion coils)... possibly someone grabbed one off the shelf, and just didn't bother to put a bell sleeve in it...

    image.jpg

    #18 4 years ago

    mo' bettah... edit: nope, senior moment on the sleeve... geez i hate it when i do something stupid because i'm distracted... will be mo' bettah shortly...

    image.jpg

    #21 4 years ago
    Quoted from MikeO:

    I hate it when that happens.

    yup... i was trying to half pay attention to a conference call and half pay attention to assembling it, and i completed spaced out on the sleeve... lame excuse, i know...

    as soon as i saw the pic in the post though, i was like, "ah, ^%#%, that was stupid"...

    coulda been worse... i've put other things together wrong that took a lot more effort to un-do than this...

    #22 4 years ago

    stupid mistake fixed... only cost me 5 minutes and a bit of embarassment...

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    #24 4 years ago

    the power of the ultrasonic cleaner... mean green and a few drops of dawn dishwashing detergent works wonders...

    came apart, had to be cleaned... you know what i'm like...

    got a few minutes this weekend? stop over with some parts and i'll clean them and you can solder the flippers on the pro-football back together...

    #30 4 years ago
    Quoted from goldenboy232:

    What kind of ultrasonic cleaner do you use? I've seen several folks mention them. What kind/size do you use, and what all do people use them for (what kinds of parts, etc.)? (Newbie question).

    to start with, i'm a firm believer in the "clean things work better" theory, and anything i take apart gets cleaned thoroughly before getting put back together... it adds some time to a "part rebuild", but it is time well spent...

    Quoted from stashyboy:

    There are other threads on this, but I think most of us use the standard 2-3 liter tank in a plastic shell type. They can be purchased many places. Has a small heater unit and generally 6-8 min. cycles. I use it for smaller parts, mostly plastic and it does save lots of hand cleaning. Also some metal uses. 50/50 mix of water and either ZEP (not for plastics) or Mean Green seems to work pretty well.

    what stashy said... there's a few threads on this... i use the "standard issue" harbor freight one... add in the standard hf coupons, and they aren't too expensive... imo/ime, it is an invaluable tool for anyone working on pinball machines, and it is also useful for many other items around the house... i even cleaned a totally shellac filled carburator in mine (although it took about a zilllion trips through to get it all out)... i also use it to clean tools, or anything small in the house...

    http://t.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html

    someday, i would like a larger one, but this does the job...

    i clean everything in mine that will fit... IMPORTANT EXCEPTION: anything with ink (plastics, drop targets, pop bumper bodies, etc.) on it stays WAY away from the cleaner...

    as a general rule i use:

    - zep heavy duty orange with a couple drops of dawn dishwashing detergent for the "brass" gtb parts...
    - mean green with a couple drops of dawn for basically everything else...

    others will have their own "brew", that is what works for me...

    use the heater... turn it on 20 mins or so before you are gonna use it and let the solution warm up (or if in a hurry, heat the solution in a pan on the stove to give it a head start)...

    give the parts a quick initial cleaning by washing them in warm water and dawn to get the surface crap off (this will make the solution in the cleaner last longer)... then dump them in the cleaner...

    usually one 8 minute trip through the cleaner is enough... that bell and mount pictured above took an 8 minute bath in the mean green/dawn solution... some parts may be particularly nasty and require more than one trip through, but be careful... the "brass" parts can generally go through the zep solution several times without issue, but zinc parts (especially if the finish is questionable to begin with) probably should not go through more than twice...

    take out of cleaner (carefully, the solution may be rather hot!)... rinse parts well under cold running water... dry parts thoroughly (an air blower attachment on a compressor is helpful with this)...

    if you are feeling particularly sporty, follow up the cleaning with a little bit of mothers mag & aluminum polish and elbow grease, and the parts will shine right up, especially the brass ones... note: i didn't polish that bell, i was too lazy, i just wanted to fix it...

    side note: change cleaning solution often... when it starts to "look dirty", change it out...

    re-assemble, and have a beer to reward yourself for a job well done...

    #31 4 years ago
    Quoted from thedefog:

    sounds like robot porn.

    #35 4 years ago
    Quoted from jrpinball:

    Yeah Chris, but I don't think you should have the gong hooked up to the 110V main switch!

    MO' POWAH!!! that baby will really clang...

    #37 4 years ago
    Quoted from jrpinball:

    I think I heard it all the way over here!

    i wonder if i could jam one of those big 110v "bank reset" coils in there?

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