Sorry you don't like the new look with DMD extender. Most of the Display cannot be fixed or I should say, would not be cost worthy to have someone try to repair it. If it only has a line or two out, then yes, you might want to try fixing it...but if it has major issues, then scrap it....Find a good used one. I have done this on many occasions with normal and large displays...If you look around you should be able to get a good used one from $200-$275 range...New they are almost $500.

Good luck!

This guy has some NOS ones in stock for less than the usual sources. Email him

ebay.com link: usr

I have repaired a couple of these large DMD's before. What exactly is the problem with yours?

Is that the full pinball mike d color kit you have? If so I'll trade you a large sega display i never installed for it straight across.

That is just the DMD Extender kit, not SmartDMD. So the DMD Extender setup has worked for you? Did the LCD cable come unplugged from the controller board? I think the plug and socket should line up just fine. Just wondering why it's not working for you now, is it just the plug doesn't seem to be the right size for the black 2-row socket on the controller board?

As for the original plasma displays, if it is dead it is dead. Rob Anthony told me they are pretty darn unfixable if this is the case. The high voltage drive circuitry often fries itself. I also called Vishay and they no longer do repairs on these panels.

3 time owner! I too love Baywatch.

You should be able to set the DMD extender to the original colors. Personally, I had allot of fun with the DMD extender and my Baywatch. Good Luck hunting down a DMD.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-sega-baywatch-color-dmd-project#post-2377694

I think there's a lot of confusion with this setup in general. Basically you have your Raspberry Pi, your DMD driver board from the original machine, the DMD Extender, and your DMD controller board. The Pi connects to the controller board using a plain old HDMI cable. The game's DMD driver board (biggest board with the ROM chips) connects to the DMD Extender's DMD IN connection using the skinny ribbon cable (not the fat one coming from the backbox). Then finally, the small black 2-row connector goes from the LCD controller board to the screen itself.

Holy snap, that's one cruddy fuse hack! F1 through F4 are all used for GI, one per string. You will have to remove that and solder in some new fuse clips.

https://greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=Fuse+clip+high+current&sprice=&stype=&scat=

If the games original DMD controller is dead that would cause your large DMD to show up completely dead, and then cause the DMD extender kit to also not show any image.

not that I know of, to top it off I believe that DMD driver board is also unique to the large DMD games. Not sure where that board is available. You could try sending it in to Clive at Coin Op cauldron and he can test it and repair it if needed.

I have determined that there is an issue with the 5v power supply, as it does not always boot. I have confirmed the DMD driver board is not booting. Sorry but I have no idea how to read that analog meter.

I believe the board set is the same as Batman Forever. If so, I believe I had the same issue you are having (machine will turn on, but nothing boots and display does not come on).

A common problem it seems, is a leaking cap on the power board in the backglass (top left board). Check out the capacitor at C2 or C3 and see if it's leaking. You may have to unplug and remove this board to look on the back. All it took for me, was some rubbing alcohol and soldering on a new capacitor and voila, works like a champ now.