(Topic ID: 216709)

DMD Compatability with WCS

By ryan98011

5 years ago


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  • 18 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by ryan98011
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 5 years ago

Hey everybody, I have a DMD issue that I am hoping to get an assist with.

I have a WCS that has a gassed DMD (GD-032D128-02) - the DMD still somewhat works so I know the game is functioning properly but it needs to be replaced.

I tried swapping in a working DMD (GD-032D128-01) from my Fish Tales and it doesn't do anything when connected to the WCS - completely dead.

Do WPC compatible DMD displays not work in WPC-S machines? I've read that DMD displays should be universally compatible but that hasn't been my experience.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or feedback! Ryan

#2 5 years ago

I think they should be similar and able to be swapped into a Williams pin. If not I recommend a colordmd. They are $360-$400, but it would really make your pin look great and more modern. I have a colordmd on all my older willams pins, best mod in my opinion

#3 5 years ago

Dmds should be compatible. I've used ones from 1990 in 2009 Sterns and vice versa even. Maybe you've got a dmd driver board problem too?

#4 5 years ago

Check the power connection didn't come loose on the DMD driver. Be sure the tiny ribbon cable is seated correctly.
I also agrew with the color DMD option. I have one in my WCS. What an amazing upgrade! You won't be disappointed and it adds reslae value to your game.

#5 5 years ago

Try a Stern DMD with a separate 5V supply(run a wall wart from the utility plug if nothing else). You may have an issue with the high voltage side which caused your initial problems.

#6 5 years ago

To confirm your original question - yes (for-sure) a Fish Tales DMD will work in a WCS. There were different manufacturers of DMDs for the BW games (Cherry, Vishary etc) but they all should interchange from the earliest Gilligans to the newest Cactus Canyon.

If something is not working, it is not because they are incompatible.

Therefore, if a DMD works in FT, you will need to find out why it does not work in WCS. Once you've done that, then definitely do as Coz suggested and get a Color DMD.

#7 5 years ago

Thanks for all the suggestions!

I will take a closer look at the power supply - can a faulty power supply cause the same symptoms as outgassing? So strange that the game works with the DMD that is in it (once warmed up it is dim but displays mostly OK)

#8 5 years ago

I've had a breakthrough! I tested the 'failing' WCS display in my FT and it works fine.. might be a driver board issue. So .. to answer my own question.. yes a board issue can mimic outgassing.

#9 5 years ago

Test the voltages out of the DMD controller board or at the DMD. You should find one of the high voltages is low. ColorDMD will not need these high voltages so would not be a need to fix this unless you want to keep the original Plasma DMD in the game.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Testing_DMD_Controller_Power

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Test the voltages out of the DMD controller board or at the DMD. You should find one of the high voltages is low. ColorDMD will not need these high voltages so would not be a need to fix this unless you want to keep the original Plasma DMD in the game.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Testing_DMD_Controller_Power

Thanks! I think I might have found the problem. Cathode is testing 29V.

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from ryan98011:

Thanks! I think I might have found the problem. Cathode is testing 29V.

Great. So now the question is: repair the board yourself, send it out for repair, or upgrade to the ColorDMD and not worry about it? Personally, I would go with ColorDMD, being that it is I have 10 of them. The games feel new to me again once I add the color display.

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Great. So now the question are: repair the board, send it out for repair, or upgrade to the ColorDMD and not worry about it. Personally, I would go with ColorDMD, being that it is I have 10 of them. The games feel new to me again once I add the color display.

I might consider a ColorDMD but would like to get this one fixed too if I can. Could it be as simple as a bad transistor or cap or is low voltage normally a symptom of a larger issue?

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from ryan98011:

I might consider a ColorDMD but would like to get this one fixed too if I can. Could it be as simple as a bad transistor or cap or is low voltage normally a symptom of a larger issue?

Best to replace all the components in the high voltage section to prevent future problems. Here are the parts required. https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=WPC-HVP-KIT
You can use the part descriptions and buy from any electronic store/website.

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from ryan98011:

I might consider a ColorDMD but would like to get this one fixed too if I can. Could it be as simple as a bad transistor or cap or is low voltage normally a symptom of a larger issue?

Usually a HV rebuild is all that's required, but check your board to see how cooked it is. It might be too burnt to bother rebuilding

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Usually a HV rebuild is all that's required, but check your board to see how cooked it is. It might be too burnt to bother rebuilding

Although jumper wires may not look nice but do the job and it is best to put any on the backside if any are needed.

#16 5 years ago

Thanks guys!

A rebuild kit sounds like the ticket. The board is a little crispy.. what do you think? Too far gone? It's definitely been messed with before.

IMG_4779 (resized).JPGIMG_4779 (resized).JPG

#17 5 years ago

A huge problem with going the Color DMD route is that once you do that, you'll need another few hundred to do your FT.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from Duvall:

A huge problem with going the Color DMD route is that once you do that, you'll need another few hundred to do your FT.

Exactly the reason for my hesitation.. will need to do em all then! haha

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