(Topic ID: 21827)

DM shop & newbie

By BOBCADE

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 40 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by BOBCADE
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 11 years ago

Hi All,
Demolition Man is my first pin. Today I started to fix my broken jet bumper and one thing led to another where I decided to do my first complete shop. Tear down of the ramps was much easier than I expected and I took photos and used some youtube videos on DM also.

Anyways, I am ordering some broken plastic replacements and why not an LED kit. The question is should I get the coin taker regular brightness kit or the super brights? The extra $30 doesn't matter. Opinions? I hope to order in a few hours so I can get them on their way.

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Post edited by mbob : Can't get LEDs yet

#2 11 years ago

I posted what I did in my thread but I originally went with the cointaker kit, as with all the flashers buying separate from PBL would have been pretty close to same price... but... after putting all the cointakers in I deiced to change the color scheme a bit from their default.

I personally like LEDs... I don't have nostalgia factor with pins.. I want them to look as modern as possible so Supers are fantastic.. but supers aren't super in GI, in my opinion.. frosted is a good look.

#3 11 years ago
Quoted from EmptyLogic:

but supers aren't super in GI, in my opinion.. frosted is a good look

Lost me a little. Whats GI?

And thanks for the info!

#4 11 years ago

Ugh, I thought it would be easier finding plastic replacements.
I can't find the ones I need:

31-1919-16 (long cover over 3rd flipper - it is on ebay with really high shipping),
31-1919-19 (blue graphics above the shooter lane),
31-1919-4 (short cover on sling switch across computer hole).

Anyone have any parts or know where I can score those? I suppose I can repair 19 & 4 and buy the inflated 16 if I had to.

#5 11 years ago
Quoted from BOBCADE:

Lost me a little. Whats GI?
And thanks for the info!

LEDs are a mod that newbies seem to get caught up in without knowing any better. GI are the lights that are under plastics that are basically always on for General Illumination. They are run off of AC power and look terrible (think strobe light) when replaced by LEDs. It makes the ball hard to follow and give some people like me a headache. The feature lights are the ones under the inserts that can be controlled individually by the CPU. For those I suggest cleaning all of the inserts from the bottom side to get rid of the black dirt. At that point the normal lights will be bright enough that you won't need LEDs.

So basically I am recommending zero LEDs for the machine...

John

#6 11 years ago

Thanks John. I am going to consider that strongly as I am sensitive headaches at times.

#7 11 years ago

GI = General Illumination, the always on lights that do not independently light up from each other.
]
]

These GI lamps that do not strobe even in total darkness, highly recommended:

http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc?categoryId=193
]
]

If you don't want the backglass colors all washed out, get these Warm White bulbs:

http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=31&categoryId=6
]
]

Don't waste money on expensive bulbs for your playfield inserts, these work great:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1882

#8 11 years ago

You won't get a headache... Go led in GI

#9 11 years ago

You won't get a headache... Go led in GI

#10 11 years ago

Fluorescents are a stock feature that old people seem to get caught up in without knowing any better. GI are the lights that are under plastics that are basically always on for General Illumination. They are run off of AC power and look really weak(think 1950s EM) when left as fluorescent. It makes the game feel old and give some people like me a feeling of 1951. The feature lights are the ones under the inserts that can be controlled individually by the CPU. For those I suggest cleaning all of the inserts from the bottom side to get rid of the black dirt. At that point the frosted LEDs will be bright enough and you'll never want weak fluorescents in your game again.
So basically I am recommending zero Fluorescents for the machine...
Matt

-1
#11 11 years ago
Quoted from mystic:

Fluorescents are a stock feature that old people seem to get caught up in without knowing any better. GI are the lights that are under plastics that are basically always on for General Illumination. They are run off of AC power and look really weak(think 1950s EM) when left as fluorescent. It makes the game feel old and give some people like me a feeling of 1951. The feature lights are the ones under the inserts that can be controlled individually by the CPU. For those I suggest cleaning all of the inserts from the bottom side to get rid of the black dirt. At that point the frosted LEDs will be bright enough and you'll never want weak fluorescents in your game again.
So basically I am recommending zero Fluorescents for the machine...
Matt

Fluorescent? You mean like the tube up in the backbox? Sheesh! Newbies...

John

#12 11 years ago

Incandescent.. Fluorescents.. Whatever. Old people bulbs. Now let me help wheel you back into the home so you can finish your jigsaw puzzle and have a nap.

#13 11 years ago

In mine I went with PBlifes leds for .69 cent each. They are a three light led and just as bright as the supers. I did go with the no ghost for 1.39 for the target lights (whites) whereas the normal .69 version ghost too much. I would not recommend led in the GI's just because it kills my eyes.
I also went with colored normal bulbs for the claw (red) and the other lit signs on the PF.
Normal bulbs in GI's and leds in inserts for me is perfect.
Also remember you can save a ton of cash by using 555 leds in place of 906 leds (save 2 bucks each easy) both PBL and CT 555s have held up on location (my game room) for well over a year.

Back box regular bulbs (good used bulbs are great for back box locations) with 555s as my flashers.
I also used the 555 behind back of the pf plastic....look great!

have fun great game for the money.

#14 11 years ago

Okay I will give it a spin. I could always change it later if I hate it. I plan to order this kit:
http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=682&categoryId=-1

now for the GI (http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc?categoryId=193) could stevedave maybe jump in with what i would need color and count for frosted? No biggie if your too busy.

Another topic on my shop. Everything is going great except one thing that went sour. I removed the mylar in the jet pit since it was pealing and it pull up the light cover. It's not brutal because that light cover is just white anyways but I'd like to get a replacement. Do they just stick on? I dont think Ive seen them for sale though so maybe I am screwed. It wont be terrible but Id like to fix.

#15 11 years ago
Quoted from EmptyLogic:

You won't get a headache... Go led in GI

I suffer from "Cluster Headaches" myself, and if anyone know's what there like knows where i'am coming from. By no means do LED's trigger my headaches one bit. LED's make an older game look more modern, the colors just pop, and they last a long time. I just dont have the LED's in the G.I. on my High Speed. It all comes down to the eye of the beholder! Trial and error till you get it to what YOU like as that matters, not what we say.

#16 11 years ago

Any opinions on using a little silicone lube in the crane gearbox? Nothing but metal gears in there. It works fine, maybe a little loud. I only ask since I have it apart at the moment.

Also - my outer lane behind the acmag is scuffed a but from wear and dirt. I am trying to use Novus 2 on it and its helped but not smooth. I havent lost any paint in the area. Should I put more elbow greese? Should I be looking at a mylar kit to protect after my cleanup?

#17 11 years ago

I used a tiny dab of Novus 3 in one area and it finally came off. sweet. I imediately wiped with Novus 1 after.

#18 11 years ago

I found the main plastic I needed at bay area amusements and placed an order for the plastic protectors at macro with another plastic piece. Those along with some other odds and ends set me back quite a bit so my LED plans are going on hold cause I still want to pick up another pin too. So I relabeled the thread subject.

Next question on shopping is what to do about ball trail along the high traffic lane behind the acmag. I've got it clean but it is slightly rougher then the rest of the table. I think I'm just going the wax it really good unless others have some suggestions. Sanding and clear coat are out I think. I would consider Mylar just on this lane with its high traffic since its now clean and it would protect but could I get it custom like that?

#19 11 years ago

I would recommend using CoinTakers Frosted Leds for the Gi's and Super's for the inserts..

I Pick and choose my Led's ..

Remember Pinside has a 10% discount w/ CoinTaker , Type in Caps in the coupon box PINSIDE

Here was my DM ,,,

#20 11 years ago

I threw out the cointaker packing slips but i think it was 67 for the GI

#21 11 years ago

I cleaned up both my elevator and crane. I completely disassembled them short of the gearbox, cleaned, and did my best cleaning the crane gearbox from the opening. I resorted to a touch of contact cleaner, q-tips, then some silicone lube. It is metal on metal in there and I am trusting with the motor attached it stays clean. Before it was tough to turn and quite loud. After it quieted down and even continues to spin after you stop turning. The elevator gearbox was mint and needed nothing internally.

So cleaning up my elevator I noticed that I may be missing a ball stop. Hopefully someone can take a look at the photo and let me know if something is missing.

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#22 11 years ago

I would contact nutshell on here and have him post some pics of his DM. His looks awesome the way he did his LEDs. Good luck and have fun. Take a lot of pics!

#23 11 years ago

Tonight I finished removing the original Mylar. Yes I learned my lesson on that jet bumper lamp and this time used freeze spray and goo gone. I was planning to leave bare after novus 2 and wax but I changed my mind. The wear in the old Mylar was pretty bad and in the back of the acmag and right side of the loop where the was no Mylar ball wear started through the clear.

So I changed gears and cut out my own Mylar. I added 2 new spots for it, 1 on acmag drop in the back, 2 right side entry to the loop and may do one more in the top right corner after the in coming switch. I figure I can always restrip it down and have someone else sand and clear but that's out of my league. So why not protect it for now and the Mylar is smoother than the trail was. Here's some pics. Another rookie move?

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#24 11 years ago

Looking cleeean, I look forward to picking one up soon.

#25 11 years ago

Thx, I don't have many before pics but lets just say other than the main playfield, anything out of reach looked like this one.

While I'm not taking everything off at once I am making my way around striping and cleaning and replacing so I don't loose or forget something.

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#26 11 years ago

Before and after. I ended up buying a new eye. a928a017fca17f70966edc05889d6aec.jpga928a017fca17f70966edc05889d6aec.jpg f52d31df4a83a0d07405b4299cfbe280.jpgf52d31df4a83a0d07405b4299cfbe280.jpg

#27 11 years ago

Before & after pic on my first ramp. Is there anything you can do for ramp ball trail? 08f420ed299e8278c219968c73a95602.jpg08f420ed299e8278c219968c73a95602.jpg 377bff8bd7da7f4cdcdc1389b7ba92e1.jpg377bff8bd7da7f4cdcdc1389b7ba92e1.jpg

#28 11 years ago

Looking great! I can't even see where the mylar piece you put down is so I guess that's a good sign.

As for ramp trails.. novus 2.. rub.. novus 2.. rub.. repeat. Generally you can get most of it off but sometimes it just doesnt want to go away.

#29 11 years ago

I worked really hard to get things back together this past weekend as the kids and I are jonesing for pinball. Those ramps are a lot harder to put back then take off LOL.

Once I got it back together I was test running it and the Claw gearbox started squealing!!! Let that be another lesson to this rookie, DO NOT PUT SILICONE SPRAY IN A GEAR BOX! Even though it says made for gears. It may have been just getting ready to seize anyways as it was sludge and glue inside.

So I drilled out the rivots, cleaned all the gears with alcohol and used White Lithium Grease as it was the best thing I could find locally. If someone recommends I can always redo it with something else. Pics attached for those who may need to put one back together.

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#30 11 years ago

More pics

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#31 11 years ago

And finally some pinball!

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#32 11 years ago

More

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#33 11 years ago

The only nagging issue I am having is the Super Jets drop from the claw. Some times the ball drops and just lays there, some times it does Prison Break instead but most times if you line it right above the switch it works. There doesnt seem to be a way to adjust it either so any tips DM owners?

#34 11 years ago

Another nag is my rebuilt 3rd flipper and faster ramp leads to the ball shooting out of the end of the lane on the skill shot drop. I'm sure things will slow down soon to fix that

#35 11 years ago

looks good. nice work on the internal gears for the claw. your claw ball drop issue is probably due to an adjustment. i remember a thread on here a year or so ago regarding the same problem. putting those ramps back ON is most def trickier than pulling them off. lol. congrats on your DM. you will love it when you install those pinball LIFE leds!!!!

#36 11 years ago

I fixed my super jets drop! I noticed during tear down that one of the three rods for the claw was shorter than the rest. I thought I had labeled them right so maybe the previous owner had them wrong with the shorter in the middle. As soon as I shifted the shorter to the left it fixed it. The wierd thing is the left now has a gap so I cut a rubber fitting to fill it. Long story now but I dropped a screw under the table and it went under the power supply board. So I grabbed my magnet to fish it out and to my surprise came out with the screw was a small round cylinder the exact size I cut my rubber fitting. I swapped it and fits like a glove. No super jet issues at all.

LEDs for inserts and accents are coming as soon as I can plan it out right

Thanks for the gearbox repair kudos but today I sort of messed it up. Someone I showed the greased pic thought I needed more grease so I redid it a little heavier. Well now the claw is stressed to move so I gummed it. I need to set it back to the way I had it or find a different lube. Anyone ever try 3in1 oil? That's all they have local for light duty jobs.

#37 11 years ago

I Just re-cleaned and tried 3 in 1 light grade oil. The gears spin real easy and no squealing. Though the box is still loud. Unless someone points me in another direction for some reason I'm sticking with this.

#38 11 years ago

AWESOME. I redid my gearbox again and this is the way to go:

1. Clean with WD-40. Use it as a cleaning agent.
2. After degreased wipe away all WD-40. Leave none behind.
3. Apply a layer Super Lube Grease with Teflon to all gear teeth.
4. Apply a really thin layer of Super Lube Grease to gear faces, spacers, washers, and stems. Don't miss the insert dimples on the box cover either.
5. Enclose it back up and ensure everything turns good all the way around before reinstalling. I even open it back up and removed excess grease that was on the gear faces.

I swear by Super Lube Grease (not oil or spray) for gears. My claw gearbox is so much quieter now. With the pin set at volume of 8 (lowest) you can't even hear it now. What a difference. Woohoo! lol

#39 11 years ago


Quoted from John_I:LEDs are a mod that newbies seem to get caught up in without knowing any better.

Yeah, newbies like Stern and Jersey Jack.

Install what you like and welcome to the hobby.

2 weeks later
#40 11 years ago

So I played around with some LEDs tonight. I like the 3 LED super brights in inserts larger than a standard small circle or ones that do not have the light pointed inside. I am still not sure I like it when the inserts are blinking with them in but I play damn good even though it feels a lot different.

The mistake I made is not buying more ghost busters from Pinball life. I bought a lot more of their frosted regular 555 and the colored ones I used in the Claw, Acmag, DM Time, Computer, Super Jackpot, and 1 white target are staying lit when they should be off. Should I just re-order these in Ghost Buster?

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