first fuse and connectors

Get yourself a WPC manual. It'll come in handy no matter what WPC game you have. Your regular manual should help you understand the flasher circuit and stuff, but the WPC manual helps you understand the boards.

Until then, check the following on your power driver board (upper right corner)...With the coin door closed, Led 5 should be lit.

The power comes in at J-102 and J- 104 or 105. Check fuse 111. Br-4 & C-11 converts Ac to Dc (you might have a cracked trace on the top side of the board or any of the J connector pins)

TP 7 should be about 20 volts dc. The flashers 20 Volts comes out J-106,7 &8 which are all tied together.

That's the hot side of the flasher circuit and probably where your problem is since none of 'em work.

Good luck!

No led 5 = no 20 volts = no flashers. When you get your meter, Check the fuse (5 amp slo-blow). Wouldn't hurt to check all the flasher sockets, lugs & wiring too.

If it's blown, replace the fuse & power up. if it blows again, you've probably got a shorted br-4.

If the fuse isn't blown, you've probably got a cracked trace or connector pin (J-102,4,5 or J-106,7,8) on the circuit board.

I'm guessing you should probably find someone local to do any board work if you need it.

pm me if you need to, and I can call you & walk you thru it.

All the flashers in my DM where out when I got it. I played it probably 50 times before I even noticed (how did that happen?). I then rewatched the for sale/trade video and they were out in that too. What was wrong? A fuse was simply too old. It didn't look blown. Actually, it looked fine! I tested it and it was dead. New one = Working flashers.

Great game! I really, really like it.

I have seen all flashers out on a game and it turned out that they were all simply burned out. Always start simple. Replace one bulb and test. Since the boards led is also out, the board is probably the problem. But I have also seen those indicator LEDs die. So make no assumptions. These would be your steps:

1) dmm the fuses - all of them.
2) replace at least one flasher bulb
3) if fuses are ok and bulbs are ok start checking power at the board. The circuits here are simple. Input power to fuse, to bridge, to cap, out. If you don't have 20vdc at your flashers with the coin door closed, check for voltage at the flasher connector. If no 20vdc there, test / replace the bridge rectifier and associated cap. Look at traces of these components. Possibly dmm the traces.

Hopefully you get the idea from there.

Well to trace power you need the board installed and running.

Are you checking the fuse for continuity out of the game or with at least one end popped out?

Going by what you're telling us, my hunch is that you've got a cracked trace on the br-4 bridge rectifier or the J connectors (probably on the top side of the board). Wherever/whatever the problem in the circuit is, you'll need to pull the board and follow the circuit with the continuity and/or ohms settings of your dmm. I've given you the area to look, and maybe you can find the WPC power driver board schematics on-line (page 1). It's a pretty basic circuit.

I tend to run jumpers on these boards especially if components have been previously replaced by previous owners of unknown abilities

That being said (and guessing that you might be in over your head), I'd recommend finding a local who's comfortable in troubleshooting and walking you through this (I'd do it, but don't get over your way on a regular basis). OR, if you're adventurous, find the schematics and don't mind the possibility of learning things the hard way.. go for it!

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/all-flashers-not-working-on-dh-not-led

Worked for me twice now so it might be worth it. Rip that board out and test it. Pay special attention in that thread to...

"No flashers worked, no continuity betwixed negative on BR4 with Negative on C11 nor negative to the board ground, even though I was getting a 400-600 (good) reading on both BR4 negatives & positives testing them in diode mode with with their AC legs.
Borygard told me to jumper Negative from BR4 to negative of C11."

Here's a vid that shows how to test BRs if you are not familair...it is very easy to do. Do this before you start getting into wacky searches for screwy Lm339s etc etc.

Test the continuity first

One of them is for high power - coils and flashers.

Be sure it is wired right, and held in tight enough by the flap that pushes it in when the door closes - they get bent or also be sure the wiring harness isn't in the way.

LTG : )

Replace the switch. I had a CP that I was working on with a similar problem (13V and no flash lamps). After checking and replacing everything in the circuit I checked the coin door switch. It had continuity (I had checked it earlier) but as soon as I tried to pass current it would go open. I tested it again by jumpering around it with alligator clips and the flashlamps worked. Replacing this switch fixed the flashlamps.

And of the flasher bulbs bad or sockets shorted drawing down power ?

LTG : )

Hey Turkey... You pm'd me, but I'll reply here so others can see it and chime in if I miss anything or any other ideas come up. I don't have a WPC near me at the moment, so I'm going by memory & the WPC manual. Again, It wouldn't hurt to find someone local to help you, but here goes...

Have you made sure all the power driver board connectors are in the correct spots? Also, since you're green, I'd be careful jumping the door switch.

Also, you say that you've got 13 volts. AC or DC? if it was AC, you've got a cracked trace, bad cap or bad BR-4.

Seems like you've got 3 issues going on. Don't get ahead of yourself. You'll need to take a step back & start at the beginning....

J 102,4 or 5 are your AC power in connecters (not sure which of the 3 are used, probably J 102?), so you should be checking continuity between those & Br 4. Meter off the top of the board and not the bottom. Put the board back in with a good F-111 and connect everything except the connector that attaches to J-106,7 or 8. Power up & check out led 5. Is it on? Fiddle with the door switch. Does led 5 turn on & off when you activate the switch? Does the fuse blow? Put your meter on DC, ground the black lead, and with led 5 on, carefully check pins 5 & 6 on J107... They should read about 20 volts DC. If all this stuff seems to check out ok, You've got to check all your flasher wiring or you might have a board issue down around J 122,3,5 or 6. Either way, stop here and check back with us.

That should keep you busy for a while, and I'm sure someone else might have other ideas too. At least it's only the flashers!

Oh yeah, Kbliznick is right, you've got to replace that switch no matter what. I'm 50- 60 miles west of you, and will lend you one if you want to road trip out here!

Well the jumper was only if you din;t have continuity between the negative of the BRs with caps and board. Bascially that would mean the negative trace is broken somewhere, and jumping it would be fixing that...BUT if there's no issue with that contiuity...that won't help.

This is a very informative thread. I don't currently have this issue, but I'm sure I will at some point do I'm glad this thread is here for reference.

Good luck in solving your problem, I'll keep checking on the progress.

Keep your eyes open for Pinsiders in your area that may be able to help or direct you to someone who can.

Or your post here might get some to contact you.

LTG : )

So Turkey, what did you find? Did everything check out ok? Did you change the door interlock switch?

If you're done trying, you could put up a Tech wanted post. If that doesn't work, Paul Reno is your guy. He's on the south side and runs Home Game Room Supply. I know he will get you fixed up.

And one final thought.... Everyone should do yourselves a favor and be sure you have a WPC and/or WPC '95 Theory of operation & schematics manual. It explains everything WPC that is not in the normal manual, and helps solve problems like this. Every WPC game came NIB with one, but for some reason, they seldom follow the game like the game specific manual does. I checked some suppliers and they were out of stock, but there were plenty on e-bay.

Turkey, did you get your issue fixed? Don't mean to bump a month old thread, but I was reviewing my thread history and remembered I never heard your results.

Well good luck, I hope you get it all straightened out. I hate when something goes wrong on my machine and I have to wait for the results of fixing it. Just bought a Sorcerer that had a bad transistor where the GI lightning would Always be on instead of flashing when appropriate. Someone pointed me in the direction of the transistor but it drove me nuts waiting for one to show up for me to install and not knowing if that was truly the problem.