EDIT: Now StarBright 9 has replaced DarkStar 9--identical material under a different name.

Since my post in the main Stranger Things thread, I've received many PMs and inquiries. Seemed easiest to keep one response in a separate thread.

The video clips below give some idea of what this material looks like. While the installed video came out darker than reality for much of it (phone would auto-adjust and I was using one hand to flip), it still gives a good idea of the huge difference it makes.

I purchased the screen material here, and would recommend having 5 sample sheets (it's possible this will prove to be difficult): https://shop.elitescreens.com/store/p127/Sample_Screen_Material.html

This is the adhesive sheeting I used (I also ordered the more expensive 3M sheets, but found this cheaper option to be the easiest to work with): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JN9FDN8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00

To achieve the results seen in the installed video, I also have 1-3 layers of cardstock in all of the large arrow inserts and some of the smaller inserts closer to the screen. Also, the back half of my right flasher is blocked with a piece of black vinyl, the lighting is dimmed in the game through settings, and I made partial cones to go over the sling LEDs (still some room to better darken this area from the screen, which perhaps I'll do later). I also pulled the LED near the shooter lane exit and it was one of the worst offenders.

Can download the parts and see instructions for the billboard and bulb cones here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4825295

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You'll have to figure out which direction is appropriate (they're not guaranteed to be one way or the other on the sheet as I received them both ways).

When turned the proper way, the image will be perfectly viewable at all 180 degrees from the bottom to the top, but standing further than at the corner of the game left to right will start to show the ambient light rejecting feature this material has. So no matter how tall or short you are, the game will look stellar from player perspective.

When the material is received with the proper direction being the slimmest, you'll likely need to carefully remove the adhesive to get enough height for the main screen panel (the front can be rolled off, but the back may need some help with contact cleaner--alcohol will ruin the material, and goo gone was messy).

Before cuts are made to the screen material, cut enough double sided tape sheet to cover an entire sample. After pulling the one side, with it on a flat surface, line up the screen materials and carefully apply it flat (I held the other end taught and something like a credit card to slowly push the material down into place to avoid air bubbles).

For the main panel: I placed the material over the factory white panels. It was best to cut the bottom, left, and right sides to proper size beforehand. All sides could be done that way, but I chose to use an exacto knife at the top. I used a sliding cutter for most straight cuts..similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Firbon-Scrapbooking-Automatic-Safeguard-Cardstock/dp/B075NYWF5P/ref=sr_1_2

For the drops: I removed the drop asssembly from underneath and removed the old decals (cleaned any remaining adhesive with 91% alcohol). With one flat side at the lower end, and the rest cut oversized, apply the material one target at a time, cutting around the edge with an exacto knife to be a perfect fit--this is larger and better looking than the smaller factory size. I found the most accurate cut to be achieved when holding the blade angled in a bit toward the material side, and holding some pressure against the target.

Ramps: These may be tricky for some. I used card stock and progressively made many cuts until I got a nearly perfect shape of the ramp decals. It's best to remove the factory pieces, but I left them in. I cut the created template in half and placed them on top of the screen material, taping them all to a large piece of glass (any hard surface will do). IMPORTANT--the screen material MUST be cut in the proper direction--templates should be laid straight up and down, not at an angle--otherwise the result will be darker and likely different between both halves).

With that arrangement for the ramp pieces, I cut around the template with an exacto knife. Test the cut before pulling the backing for installation.

Spinner: I did the same as above, but used the decal replacement that came with the game as a template (I only applied to the side facing the player when it's at rest).

Stand up targets: Apply directly over the factory piece (this keeps the rivet from interfering). Can cut to the size of the supplied replacements.

Billboard: If using my 3D file, cut to fit (I used cardstock here as well after painting and clearing).

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Perhaps this will help some. Please feel free to let me know what I'm forgetting or what I could make clearer.

Sorry for the blurry billboard photos (didn't pull the glass, and would lose my ball before I could get a good shot )
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Here's a couple pics (glass on).

My stand up targets have been on the longest and have taken a beating. All other surfaces look like they'll hold up well (bunch of games with the ramps installed and they're still flawless, and the drops look great too [some scuffing in the pics, but no effect on projection quality yet--shall see how they hold up]).

Fortunately the high wear areas are tiny and not too difficult to replace when the time comes (I have plenty extra on hand for repairs). I'm still content with the trade-off for the result, and don't foresee ever having to replace the ramps or middle board (my factory left and right boards were damaged, so perhaps one day I'll see wear on those--so far so good).

You'll need 2-3 sheets for the main board (partially depends on if they send them oriented "portrait" or "landscape" and if mistakes are made).
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I wondered how that may work. A clear/glossy piece would likely be an issue for the projection, but perhaps a protective layer with a more matte finish would work.

I don't have such material on hand, but perhaps I can find something to experiment with.

I'll pull the glass later tonight when I get home and see how it goes (I have yet to clean the stand ups, so they have some weeks on them, but I expect it's damage that won't clean off).

It's in the first video. It works very well--can finally see everything (never even noticed all the pink mountain like scenery with lightning on the drops before).

As noted in the post, the material won't help on the ramp sides due to the extreme angles.

The 27 second mark of the installed video shows a moment with bright lights on (can pause here to see it). The same amount of light would have left the projection nearly invisible on the factory material.

While I haven't tried Black Diamond, it has been reported by others that it doesn't work on the ramps--Darkstar 9 does.

Regardless, I couldn't imagine a better image than what I'm getting with this material (especially with such good viewing angles, which sounds like a miss on Black Diamond), but if anyone has a way to get me some Black Diamond material, I would do a comparison (I had asked before with no luck, but did try a ton of different materials before landing on this one).

I could make another video with full bright lights if desired.

Darn. Unfortunate to hear, but thank you for letting others know.

I'm hoping many will get to experience the game this way.

Works great on the ramps as shown in my clips. Are you sure you had it turned the proper direction to test?

The material must be almost exactly the right orientation, and it works just as well as those main surfaces (just not on the more extreme sides of the ramps).

EDIT: [From our PMs, it was realized that the material in the quote was installed incorrectly--it only works properly when the silvery appearance is arranged up and down--the darker orientation isn't a personal preference option--it doesn't work]

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Not sure I understand what you mean by "darker," and there shouldn't be any "too dark" with this material unless oriented improperly.

The effect will only work properly in one direction--any deviation will result in a dark/muddy image that I wouldn't consider an improvement (worse the further the deviation, up to 90 degrees).

Bubbles should be easy to avoid if you perfectly pre-cut the 3 sides mentioned in the post, then carefully apply from bottom to top (cutting any excess at the top, which will be very little if the samples were oriented in the way that proper viewing is a "landscape" rather than "portrait" [I received samples in both orientations, so it can't be assumed]--it's harder to use in the landscape orientation due to the height not working without careful cleaning of the adhesive to gain full height). For me, cutting straight lines was easiest with the sliding tool (similar to what was linked).

The demodogs and such are MUCH easier to see with the D9 material, but you'll want to put at least one piece of fitted cardstock in the inserts below and turn the lights down in the game a bit (otherwise they'll show that nearby light too much IMO).

As noted, the material will suffer noticeable damage on the stand up targets, but my drop targets still look perfect when playing (despite being able to see some light marking when the game is off, I can't detect it when projecting, even knowing they're there). I'll likely periodically replace the stand up material--it would be hard to go back to stock after seeing them this way.

Glad to see others getting to experience the game with this material . Patience is indeed the key. It's not a hard job...just a tedious one to do properly. As noted, I also suggest removing the original ramp and drop decals, but you'll want to keep the original stand up decals if covering those (some may not want to deal with high wear of the stand ups with this material though).

Other lighting changes will be what's necessary to get the result I've shown.

A simple test, would be to place a couple layers of cardstock over all of the main 7 arrow inserts during attract mode, then pull them away to see how much of a difference it makes.

Even once a few layers of cardstock are cut and inserted into each insert from underneath (and all lights dimmed in settings), the sling lights (and light at the end of the shooter lane) still significantly pollute the projection quality. Putting your hands over the slings during attract and removing them will give some idea of how much those bulb cones I made can help in those areas.

I also tried some grey theater screen material from multiple brands, but the results were mediocre.

The Darkstar 9 manages to pull off a magic trick with great black levels, far superior contrast, and good color accuracy (the other grey materials would suffer with color accuracy and brightness, and still not get the same black levels). In full screen form, it does cost significantly more than their standard Cinegray though (~30x).

As noted, I have no intention to produce a kit, but I'd be glad to see someone else pick up where I left off to create a peel and stick solution.

Just hoped my findings and 3D files could help some while I continue to put my time into other mod development and production.

Looks like he posted an update. Hopefully he can confirm that the material he is offering is the real Black Diamond material by Screen Innovations (I had subtly prompted a clarification with my post in his thread as it doesn't look like real BD to me in his video clips, but it wasn't addressed).

This was recently brought to my attention, and at that time, the Starbright 9 had an SKU of Darkstar 9, so I thought it could just be a name change, though it appears they've since fixed the SKU to match.

I'll look into it more tomorrow to see if I can find information that would suggest they're the same or point to another viable option.

I could order another sample or two to compare or experiment with.

I had sent a D9 sample to Rocco that was offering the "black diamond", and he was able to confirm better performance with the D9, but unable to source it there (EDIT: update from him on the next page).

I noticed some new offerings, which is what I was considering experimenting with if specs check out and sound promising, though it's hard for me to imagine something better than what I see with the Darkstar 9.

IIRC the D9 has a 180* viewing angle top to bottom, so anyone tall or short would see a great picture from player perspective.

I'd hope to see similar specs elsewhere, though currently on the phone, which is harder to research with.

EDIT: As a side note, the material has held up beyond my expectations. Every point that gets dirty from ball contact has been able to wipe clean to a perfect surface underneath.

Also currently working on a mod set for Stranger Things. Not sure on a reveal estimate, but at least a couple months out.

Indeed, while the Darkstar 9 material works great on the bottom of the ramps, it doesn't work on the sides unfortunately.

Your prep work to make this easier for others is stellar, so I'd love to see you be able to find a way to make this practical to offer up.

Will update once I know more about the product switch.

I've just ordered a sample of the StarBright 9. Sounds like it could just be DarkStar 9 with a new name, but we shall see.

Looking at other available options, I don't see anything else that has promising specs for this application. The Darkstar UST is for high lumens, which isn't the case here, and CLR screens would make it so you'd have to be looking from the lockdown bar for a good image.

And as I likely mentioned, you unfortunately can't cheap out with the lower end dark screens--terrible image quality.

Well, I got the "StarBright 9" sample.

Safe to say I don't need to do any tests to compare it to DS9

Unfortunately still the small sample size as before.

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As shipping is "free," no harm in waiting to see where your 5 sheets get you to decide on having extra. Probably not a bad idea to have some on hand, but after nearly a year of home use, all of my surfaces are still in great shape.

Still get dirty from play, but have wiped clean each time.

Just snapped this pic of the standups after cleaning, which get dirty the quickest (same pieces I installed last year).

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After the projector heats up (at least 5 minutes [better to wait longer to be safe]), adjustments can be made in the settings, which individually can set most parameters. Settings made before the projector heats up, will show issues once it does heat up--a game freshly turned on should look a bit blurry, and clear up after being on awhile.

IIRC, the templates that come up for calibrating may not be 100% perfect to where you want the letters on the right ramp to show up, so it may take a couple attempts, remembering the reality of positioning vs the template.

That's frustrating.

Hard for me to tell from your photo as the DS9 material has many appearances depending on angle/light. Description has similarities, but ceiling light rejecting isn't mentioned on DS9. I noticed it before ordering, but receiving DS9 pushed aside the concern.

When properly oriented, it shouldn't change tone when looking from a low angle or above (but will if looking from the side). If it appears wrong in one orientation, try turning 90*.

EDIT: I've sent an email to Elite. Will update once I hear back.

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Seems we're all good.

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Based on my question, I can only assume that's what he meant, and as he says they have the same properties, that seems to make it clear.

Yes, but the cheapest option is ~$1500/1600+ for a 106" screen in the US (not sure what the final cost with international shipping would be)

Pricey, but if you had a serious interest list, you could make it worthwhile, and I expect you could charge more than your other kit with this material.

This is a daunting DIY for those that don't have the patience/time or confidence.

Your method would also produce one piece ramps, which is a nice perk compared to DIY with samples.

While I did receive a sample that was a different landscape/portrait orientation, top-to-bottom should be the top and bottom of the sample (compared to the card text). I expect the other was an anomaly.

But you can test outside the game by holding the sheet and rotating it so that you look at it nearly flat--if it remains silvery, that will be the top-to-bottom, and if it goes black, that is side-to-side. Best to also check both orientations when projecting to make it more obvious if there's any question.

As this was done a year ago, my freshest memory of the details would have been in the initial DIY.

Presuming the current samples are the same size and using the same adhesive, you'll have to carefully remove it (as noted in the DIY) to be able to get a large enough piece for the main screens, but with multiple sheets, there's room for trial-and-error, as a failed attempt sheet can still be used on the other surfaces with next to nothing lost (or even have enough done correctly to use for one of the panels).

And again, to get the theater-like look my game has, the lighting aspects must be addressed, but it will still be a night and day difference without (though certain inserts are an issue IMO without addressing them as they reflect more off the new projector surface in a distracting way [all can be neutralized]).

If you start light hunting after install, you may be surprised how much difference a seemingly irrelevant light source can make when directed toward the screen.

The adhesive (attaching the sample to the cardstock), without damaging the material...unless the sample got slightly taller after the name change (not expecting that). Just repeating what should be in the original write up.

I didn't remove my original ramp decals, but it's recommended.

The write up mentions I created a template with cardstock that I progressively cut into the correct shape.

Correct. This is how I did mine as well, but after separating the sample from the cardstock (at least for the main screen), if there's not enough height below the cardstock.

Hard for me to tell if your samples are slightly taller (EDIT: they are taller)

I believe I used a straight edge of some kind when rolling the adhesive onto the screen to avoid bubbles. My first attempt was also fairly poor in that regard

That's excellent news

And yeah, the DIY does note to not use alcohol, but electronic contact cleaner (not necessary if everyone gets these taller samples)

Thank you for the photos and additional information.

Good to see more of these getting installed into games.

Though while it's a night and day difference with the screen alone, believe it or not, there's another night and day difference to be had beyond it with the light hunting if motivated.

As noted, the light cones aren't entirely plug and play for all spots (some need cutting), and if you have light bleed from the bulb type at the base, some black paint could help on that side.

I used mounting tape for the billboard (3M, about 1mm thick [15lb?]). Same material I used for the stand up targets, figuring they'd take a beating and it would help protect them, but it may not be necessary as the material has held up beyond expectations.

Those 3D parts were quickly made when I was in the heart of developing the America's Most Haunted set, so time was at a premium for me, and they weren't as perfectly developed. Intended for those that didn't mind adapting them a bit.

I recently updated my billboard as the original measurement led to some curve/flex (and I also painted it to match the purple LE armor [and glows with the UV]).

When doing it the second time around, I added some black foam to the right peg so that it now mounts more straight and flat (also required adding more layers of the mounting tape to the left peg). A fair improvement over the red one that I had in there.

I didn't make a new 3D file, I just modified the mounting length with foam to adapt it (had an extra on hand from when I originally made it, and was motivated to make it better with the new mod set I'm in the midst of creating for Stranger Things).

Ramps indeed require more patience, and careful planning to make sure both pieces (on each side) are cut right so that they both project with the exact same appearance (took me two tries at it).

A shame we can't get ramp length samples.

Those lower ramps are very much worth doing though...hard to see anything on them at all without the new screen.

Placing a piece on the ramps to see the difference should help give the drive to make them work.

I believe I used as much as possible for the bottom piece, then the remainder for the top.

Can't see the seam during gameplay in a dim room, and of course the center of the left side is a bit obscured by the ramp, so the compromise of splitting them isn't a big deal.

Just took this pic of my right ramp. Any color anomalies are the flash/reflections--still flawless after a year (funny enough, the factory white sides have damage that doesn't clean off).

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That's awesome news

Hopefully it all goes well.

Darn :/

Rocco had been trying to get larger samples to do that in full size for the ramps and other pieces, but wasn't able to get them in Germany.

From what he posted, it sounded like there may be some chance the screen company would help that happen for someone in the US if asked directly.

I'd love to see someone with the ability and time make it happen for the community.

It does take some finesse, and the bubbles are most likely to occur when applying the adhesive (rather than laying the assembled materials onto the screen area).

One option to close any gaps would be to cut a slightly larger piece for the wing portions to accommodate any difference.

Unlikely this process could change the spacing of the panels, but perhaps the greater contrast would exacerbate the appearance of an existing gap.

I didn't find any need to remove the original decals for the main screen, so I didn't get to experience what that may require. I have however seen some routed games with torn up originals that would merit removing.

Looks a bit like some of the metal is exposed to the left of your right panel, which is perhaps at least part of the gap.

For the standup targets, it's best to keep the original decals in place and put the new material over it (for a properly smooth surface).

I would recommend removing the original lower ramp and drop target decals though if those are being done.

The adhesive sheeting that worked for me is highlighted in the first post as an Amazon link (just under the embedded videos).

If you still have your original extras bag with the game, you should have spare factory target decals.

I'll bid $550.

EDIT: Seeing now this may not be allowed here, but the offer stands if it works out.

Sounded like the newer sheets may have been tall enough to avoid having to do that, but this product (CRC QD Electronic Cleaner) is safe to use to remove the adhesive (and has also been the best I've used to clean the material when dirty):

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=asc_df_B000BXOGNI/

Walmart tends to have it, and perhaps cheapest there.

Not all contact cleaners would be safe to use.

I didn't add any there, and believe that was the conclusion.

FWIW, I tested the Cinegray products shown in this video that compares the Silver Ticket HC screen (video claims the Cinegray is superior), and while better than the stock white, they're muddy (darks gained, with brights lost, and worse colors) in comparison to the StarBright screen (night and day difference between them).

Perhaps their ALR screen would be worth experimenting with, but I haven't tried that one (the material gnjax posted also looks promising if it works on the ramps).

I may have updated the billboard file for my game (bit better fitting) and never updated the public file. Will check within the next couple days.

Bit detached from a perfect memory of it, so I'd be inclined to believe the 5 noted when fresh in mind should be about right, but if wary about needing an extra practice piece, or want extra on hand just in case...

Best to take the old material off, and I did for some parts, but I did put mine on top of the old ramp material (would have taken it off if I did it again).

After ~1000+ plays, mine looks like this:

Nearly flawless where the ball touches. The bottom area of the drops does get scuffed as shown, but not noticed during gameplay. Small, but noticeable blemish on the standup to the right of the left ramp.

Has held up far beyond expectation.

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The fact it works great on the lower ramps is the reason this DIY exists--materials others found before did not (only doesn't work on the vertical sides).