EDIT: Now StarBright 9 has replaced DarkStar 9--identical material under a different name.

Since my post in the main Stranger Things thread, I've received many PMs and inquiries. Seemed easiest to keep one response in a separate thread.

The video clips below give some idea of what this material looks like. While the installed video came out darker than reality for much of it (phone would auto-adjust and I was using one hand to flip), it still gives a good idea of the huge difference it makes.

I purchased the screen material here, and would recommend having 5 sample sheets (it's possible this will prove to be difficult): https://shop.elitescreens.com/store/p127/Sample_Screen_Material.html

This is the adhesive sheeting I used (I also ordered the more expensive 3M sheets, but found this cheaper option to be the easiest to work with): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JN9FDN8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00

To achieve the results seen in the installed video, I also have 1-3 layers of cardstock in all of the large arrow inserts and some of the smaller inserts closer to the screen. Also, the back half of my right flasher is blocked with a piece of black vinyl, the lighting is dimmed in the game through settings, and I made partial cones to go over the sling LEDs (still some room to better darken this area from the screen, which perhaps I'll do later). I also pulled the LED near the shooter lane exit and it was one of the worst offenders.

Can download the parts and see instructions for the billboard and bulb cones here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4825295

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You'll have to figure out which direction is appropriate (they're not guaranteed to be one way or the other on the sheet as I received them both ways).

When turned the proper way, the image will be perfectly viewable at all 180 degrees from the bottom to the top, but standing further than at the corner of the game left to right will start to show the ambient light rejecting feature this material has. So no matter how tall or short you are, the game will look stellar from player perspective.

When the material is received with the proper direction being the slimmest, you'll likely need to carefully remove the adhesive to get enough height for the main screen panel (the front can be rolled off, but the back may need some help with contact cleaner--alcohol will ruin the material, and goo gone was messy).

Before cuts are made to the screen material, cut enough double sided tape sheet to cover an entire sample. After pulling the one side, with it on a flat surface, line up the screen materials and carefully apply it flat (I held the other end taught and something like a credit card to slowly push the material down into place to avoid air bubbles).

For the main panel: I placed the material over the factory white panels. It was best to cut the bottom, left, and right sides to proper size beforehand. All sides could be done that way, but I chose to use an exacto knife at the top. I used a sliding cutter for most straight cuts..similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Firbon-Scrapbooking-Automatic-Safeguard-Cardstock/dp/B075NYWF5P/ref=sr_1_2

For the drops: I removed the drop asssembly from underneath and removed the old decals (cleaned any remaining adhesive with 91% alcohol). With one flat side at the lower end, and the rest cut oversized, apply the material one target at a time, cutting around the edge with an exacto knife to be a perfect fit--this is larger and better looking than the smaller factory size. I found the most accurate cut to be achieved when holding the blade angled in a bit toward the material side, and holding some pressure against the target.

Ramps: These may be tricky for some. I used card stock and progressively made many cuts until I got a nearly perfect shape of the ramp decals. It's best to remove the factory pieces, but I left them in. I cut the created template in half and placed them on top of the screen material, taping them all to a large piece of glass (any hard surface will do). IMPORTANT--the screen material MUST be cut in the proper direction--templates should be laid straight up and down, not at an angle--otherwise the result will be darker and likely different between both halves).

With that arrangement for the ramp pieces, I cut around the template with an exacto knife. Test the cut before pulling the backing for installation.

Spinner: I did the same as above, but used the decal replacement that came with the game as a template (I only applied to the side facing the player when it's at rest).

Stand up targets: Apply directly over the factory piece (this keeps the rivet from interfering). Can cut to the size of the supplied replacements.

Billboard: If using my 3D file, cut to fit (I used cardstock here as well after painting and clearing).

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Perhaps this will help some. Please feel free to let me know what I'm forgetting or what I could make clearer.

Sorry for the blurry billboard photos (didn't pull the glass, and would lose my ball before I could get a good shot )
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Here's a couple pics (glass on).

My stand up targets have been on the longest and have taken a beating. All other surfaces look like they'll hold up well (bunch of games with the ramps installed and they're still flawless, and the drops look great too [some scuffing in the pics, but no effect on projection quality yet--shall see how they hold up]).

Fortunately the high wear areas are tiny and not too difficult to replace when the time comes (I have plenty extra on hand for repairs). I'm still content with the trade-off for the result, and don't foresee ever having to replace the ramps or middle board (my factory left and right boards were damaged, so perhaps one day I'll see wear on those--so far so good).

You'll need 2-3 sheets for the main board (partially depends on if they send them oriented "portrait" or "landscape" and if mistakes are made).
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I wondered how that may work. A clear/glossy piece would likely be an issue for the projection, but perhaps a protective layer with a more matte finish would work.

I don't have such material on hand, but perhaps I can find something to experiment with.

I'll pull the glass later tonight when I get home and see how it goes (I have yet to clean the stand ups, so they have some weeks on them, but I expect it's damage that won't clean off).

It's in the first video. It works very well--can finally see everything (never even noticed all the pink mountain like scenery with lightning on the drops before).

As noted in the post, the material won't help on the ramp sides due to the extreme angles.

The 27 second mark of the installed video shows a moment with bright lights on (can pause here to see it). The same amount of light would have left the projection nearly invisible on the factory material.

While I haven't tried Black Diamond, it has been reported by others that it doesn't work on the ramps--Darkstar 9 does.

Regardless, I couldn't imagine a better image than what I'm getting with this material (especially with such good viewing angles, which sounds like a miss on Black Diamond), but if anyone has a way to get me some Black Diamond material, I would do a comparison (I had asked before with no luck, but did try a ton of different materials before landing on this one).

I could make another video with full bright lights if desired.

Darn. Unfortunate to hear, but thank you for letting others know.

I'm hoping many will get to experience the game this way.

Works great on the ramps as shown in my clips. Are you sure you had it turned the proper direction to test?

The material must be almost exactly the right orientation, and it works just as well as those main surfaces (just not on the more extreme sides of the ramps).

EDIT: [From our PMs, it was realized that the material in the quote was installed incorrectly--it only works properly when the silvery appearance is arranged up and down--the darker orientation isn't a personal preference option--it doesn't work]

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Not sure I understand what you mean by "darker," and there shouldn't be any "too dark" with this material unless oriented improperly.

The effect will only work properly in one direction--any deviation will result in a dark/muddy image that I wouldn't consider an improvement (worse the further the deviation, up to 90 degrees).

Bubbles should be easy to avoid if you perfectly pre-cut the 3 sides mentioned in the post, then carefully apply from bottom to top (cutting any excess at the top, which will be very little if the samples were oriented in the way that proper viewing is a "landscape" rather than "portrait" [I received samples in both orientations, so it can't be assumed]--it's harder to use in the landscape orientation due to the height not working without careful cleaning of the adhesive to gain full height). For me, cutting straight lines was easiest with the sliding tool (similar to what was linked).

The demodogs and such are MUCH easier to see with the D9 material, but you'll want to put at least one piece of fitted cardstock in the inserts below and turn the lights down in the game a bit (otherwise they'll show that nearby light too much IMO).

As noted, the material will suffer noticeable damage on the stand up targets, but my drop targets still look perfect when playing (despite being able to see some light marking when the game is off, I can't detect it when projecting, even knowing they're there). I'll likely periodically replace the stand up material--it would be hard to go back to stock after seeing them this way.

Glad to see others getting to experience the game with this material . Patience is indeed the key. It's not a hard job...just a tedious one to do properly. As noted, I also suggest removing the original ramp and drop decals, but you'll want to keep the original stand up decals if covering those (some may not want to deal with high wear of the stand ups with this material though).

Other lighting changes will be what's necessary to get the result I've shown.

A simple test, would be to place a couple layers of cardstock over all of the main 7 arrow inserts during attract mode, then pull them away to see how much of a difference it makes.

Even once a few layers of cardstock are cut and inserted into each insert from underneath (and all lights dimmed in settings), the sling lights (and light at the end of the shooter lane) still significantly pollute the projection quality. Putting your hands over the slings during attract and removing them will give some idea of how much those bulb cones I made can help in those areas.

I also tried some grey theater screen material from multiple brands, but the results were mediocre.

The Darkstar 9 manages to pull off a magic trick with great black levels, far superior contrast, and good color accuracy (the other grey materials would suffer with color accuracy and brightness, and still not get the same black levels). In full screen form, it does cost significantly more than their standard Cinegray though (~30x).

As noted, I have no intention to produce a kit, but I'd be glad to see someone else pick up where I left off to create a peel and stick solution.

Just hoped my findings and 3D files could help some while I continue to put my time into other mod development and production.

Looks like he posted an update. Hopefully he can confirm that the material he is offering is the real Black Diamond material by Screen Innovations (I had subtly prompted a clarification with my post in his thread as it doesn't look like real BD to me in his video clips, but it wasn't addressed).

This was recently brought to my attention, and at that time, the Starbright 9 had an SKU of Darkstar 9, so I thought it could just be a name change, though it appears they've since fixed the SKU to match.

I'll look into it more tomorrow to see if I can find information that would suggest they're the same or point to another viable option.

I could order another sample or two to compare or experiment with.

I had sent a D9 sample to Rocco that was offering the "black diamond", and he was able to confirm better performance with the D9, but unable to source it there (EDIT: update from him on the next page).