Good luck to you. Very simple process actually.

Yeah that’s a strong suggestion. Plug it in when you are Ready to do the process and only do 3-4 then unplug it. Unfortunately these are not temp adjustable so you have to find that sweet spot from warm to lava cooker lol.

Yes per the instructions on the first page of this thread.

I agree. There is no value in fixing what isn’t broken. While Yes there is an issue with some Playfields with some manufacturers the issue is Not on every one. IF the issue should pop up, trust me you Will see it within the first 50 plays, then fix away. Otherwise just be observant and Enjoy your game!

Well Done! I knew you could do it and great to see you had a helper. A few reminder tips (hopefully you never need to do again).
1. On any new games or repair of any rail with fasted threaded stud Add a washer! Rails tend to vibrate side to side on impact and if they are imbedded into the art/clear they Will eventually scrape the surface off. Odd how they skip these on some areas?
2. Suggestion on using the heated iron to stay in control. The iron tends to heat up fast then get Real hot. Prepare the area, clean the area, Then plug in the iron. I continuously wave a finger over the iron waiting for it to get just hot enough but not Lava hot lol. Better to start cooler and build up then start blazing hot. After the single heat process is done, Unplug it! Mylar, washer, and assemble that area then rinse and repeat the next problem area.
3 You need to seal protect the repaired area with mylar but don't over think it. No need for fancy cutters or perfection. Use a simple Exacto knife or good scissors to cut a circle or strip to protect. As the mylar is clear you will never notice slight imperfection in circularity. We will add a mylar ring option to our website for as cheap as we can for anyone that is interested.
4 As you did successfully, Press up and down do not actually Iron side to side! If the surface gets hot to the finger touch Stop! Thats what causes the slight ring look. Unplug and wait till the area is touchable if needed.
5 Minor suggestion though not a must. These are cheap likely made in China irons. The brass iron surface is not always perfect (likely the reason for any rings) or sometimes has a sharp edge. I personally lap that face just a bit to ensure its perfect on a new iron. Place a piece of 200-600 (whatever) sand paper down on a very flat surface. Put the face of the iron down on that sand paper and slowly and evenly swirl in a circular 8 motion basically lapping that brass plate to perfect flat. Only takes a minute one time.

Again, well done and glad to see you mitigated the issue Before it turned to failure. Sad this needs to be done but it doesn't have to be the end of your pinball fun!

Completely fine. It's just a polished copper disk to retain heat. Just want it buttery smooth so the heat isn't focused on a single sharp edge. Really appreciate that you took the time to make a video. Very helpful to anyone considering this as it really isn't as scary as it sounds. Well done! Wish I knew how to make your post a "Key post?"

Would need to see a picture to assess.

Thanks again for sharing your pictures. For anyone interested in his case the issue was more an insert ghosting type fail. Insert lowering and separating from clear. Unfortunately not something this iron solution would improve in my opinion.

As an ODD alternate use of the iron I did have an older game that had some typical pooling (whatever) around the cabinet art by the legs and amazingly this iron worked pretty well at smoothing that out. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture as I was just noodling but worth a shot for decal mending.

I’m lost. Why are you replying to YEAR old posts??? Did I miss something?

The one you replied to and about was over a year old. I was just confused by your post.

New process here and a some unknowns we will likely only know from experimentation is my guess. I have done an early Wonka that was well over a year old from production and likely the playfield was processed more like 2 years old but in that example the repair turned out just as if it was new when done. Key is to address it Before any ripping or chipping of the art. Can't give you a guarantee but will say I would safely do it and my guess is it would look better.

Similar. Remove rail, repair like post, apply cut strip of mylar, then the key is to install a metal washer under the metal guide mounts to keep the rail off the wood.

Awesome congrats! Never fun to do unnecessary repairs but glad it worked out for you. Well done.

Guess that experiment would be on you. I personally fear that would cause additional issues in the surrounding area. Applying heat Directly to the issue is much easier to control and I have yet to have an issue and the final result has solved any issues I have come across. Good luck.

I have only used Mylar washers on my repairs and never had an issue. As the attempted repair from the OEM was to supply hard washers on new games installed there still seem to be reports of issues so I just stick with repair and Mylar. Good luck.