Guns N' Roses (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2020
Guns N' Roses (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2020
Guns N' Roses (SE)
Jersey Jack, 2020
Pirates of the Caribbean
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2019
Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019Quoted from Yelobird:Awesome! Thanks for the feedback. I suspected it wasn't terribly difficult but I tend to sway toward risk/reward lol. Doing another WW, Beatles, and POTC this week oh joy...
I assume you are doing this as a service to local friends/collectors? Very nice of you.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:I assume you are doing this as a service to local friends/collectors? Very nice of you.
Pretty much yes. I work for no OEM (other then mama) but any time I can help a friend or fellow collector I’m always in. Rather enjoy the opportunity.
Quoted from Kiwipinhead:This is not a wide spread problem , only a small % of playfields have this issue.
Lol. I guess it depends on how you market the percentage variable. If they mean only a small percentage Don’t have an issue I agree. Lol
Quoted from Yelobird:I waited to post as I am also experimenting with the same process only I added a few minute cure time using a UV lamp directly over the source
So you are using both the "iron" and the UV cure LED?
Have you tried just the UV cure LED and not the iron?
I'm curious if sufficent time in the UV LED "booth" would harden these PFs before assembly. (thinking out loud)
Quoted from Zitt:So you are using both the "iron" and the UV cure LED?
Have you tried just the UV cure LED and not the iron?
I'm curious if sufficent time in the UV LED "booth" would harden these PFs before assembly. (thinking out loud)
From what I have researched you are correct. A proper Pre assembly UV cure Would have changed this issue. (Similar to the UV process used in hard curing resin printed parts) However, post assembly (funny) the iron helps buy softening the pooled clear then setting it back level and slightly tempering it. If you only UV clear a large bulge of clear it will more then likely crack to pieces in short order. Plus it will still look like a crater from hell. All kind of theory but based on the end results seems to work rather well for existing damage.
Yelobird: Could you please elaborate on the UV light step? Is this done immediately after pressing the area down with the iron? Can the UV light step be done at anytime before mylar and washers?
Can someone post a link to the Titan washers? Are these better than the Lowe's washers that we previously recommended?
Quoted from KornFreak28:Yelobird: Could you please elaborate on the UV light step? Is this done immediately after pressing the area down with the iron? Can the UV light step be done at anytime before mylar and washers?
Can someone post a link to the Titan washers? Are these better than the Lowe's washers that we previously recommended?
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=154
I never tried the Lowe's ones but these are thinner than the gummy ones I got from Amazon.
Quoted from zaphX:https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=154
I never tried the Lowe's ones but these are thinner than the gummy ones I got from Amazon.
Thanks!
Quoted from KornFreak28:Yelobird: Could you please elaborate on the UV light step? Is this done immediately after pressing the area down with the iron? Can the UV light step be done at anytime before mylar and washers?
Can someone post a link to the Titan washers? Are these better than the Lowe's washers that we previously recommended?
Absolutely. The iron press process is done first to bring the playfield clear and art back to original level while slightly hardening both at the same time. From there placed a small (nail) UV lamp (link below) or similar over the repaired area. After about a minute the UV hardening seems to be complete as the surface is rather thin. Again, similar to the process used in hard curing 3D resin printed parts. At that point I light clean with alcohol and apply a mylar ring to protect from any cracking or chipping now that its set. Hope that makes sense.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KY5RX7B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Quoted from Yelobird:Absolutely. The iron press process is done first to bring the playfield clear and art back to original level while slightly hardening both at the same time. From there placed a small (nail) UV lamp (link below) or similar over the repaired area. After about a minute the UV hardening seems to be complete as the surface is rather thin. Again, similar to the process used in hard curing 3D resin printed parts. At that point I light clean with alcohol and apply a mylar ring to protect from any cracking or chipping now that its set. Hope that makes sense.
amazon.com link »
I kind of like this one. More portable, Smaller for the Playfield, but lower W's. So it might take 30 more seconds.
https://www.amazon.com/Fingernail-Toenail-Polishes-Professional-Huretek/dp/B07K1WK518/ref=sr_1_14
Quoted from Yelobird:Absolutely. The iron press process is done first to bring the playfield clear and art back to original level while slightly hardening both at the same time. From there placed a small (nail) UV lamp (link below) or similar over the repaired area. After about a minute the UV hardening seems to be complete as the surface is rather thin. Again, similar to the process used in hard curing 3D resin printed parts. At that point I light clean with alcohol and apply a mylar ring to protect from any cracking or chipping now that its set. Hope that makes sense.
amazon.com link »
Quoted from Yelobird:Absolutely. The iron press process is done first to bring the playfield clear and art back to original level while slightly hardening both at the same time. From there placed a small (nail) UV lamp (link below) or similar over the repaired area. After about a minute the UV hardening seems to be complete as the surface is rather thin. Again, similar to the process used in hard curing 3D resin printed parts. At that point I light clean with alcohol and apply a mylar ring to protect from any cracking or chipping now that its set. Hope that makes sense.
amazon.com link »
Thanks! Can this be done at anytime after leveling the area with the iron? Or Does it have to be done immediately after for it to be effective?
Quoted from KornFreak28:Thanks! Can this be done at anytime after leveling the area with the iron? Or Does it have to be done immediately after for it to be effective?
Doesn’t really matter. Nor is it a mandatory process. i found the addition step gave me confidence the issue would never return. Time will tell.
Quoted from Yelobird:Doesn’t really matter. Nor is it a mandatory process. i found the addition step gave me confidence the issue would never return. Time will tell.
Yelobird,
when are you going to do a video tutorial about the whole process? I'm thinking it would get quite a few views bu interested parties.
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Yelobird,
when are you going to do a video tutorial about the whole process? I'm thinking it would get quite a few views bu interested parties.
That would be good, I have a kit incoming but I'm still nervous lol. Seeing it done would increase my confidence manyfold 
Quoted from KornFreak28:Yelobird: Have you checked under your repaired posts recently? Are they still holding strong?
No further issues and past issue is still erased for me. Good luck
Thanks to Yelobird for the guide, I've just spent a few hours sorting 7 posts pooling on my IMDN pro.
IMG_20191020_113343579 (resized).jpgIMG_20191020_122941222 (resized).jpgIMG_20191020_130835126 (resized).jpgIMG_20191020_142419549 (resized).jpgIMG_20191020_142426869 (resized).jpgIMG_20191020_143028166 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Kevlar:Thanks to Yelobird for the guide, I've just spent a few hours sorting 7 posts pooling on my IMDN pro.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Did you also use the "Nail" UV lamp to help cure after "ironing" down? I think Yelobird has said he has seen NO issues after having performed this repair.
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Did you also use the "Nail" UV lamp to help cure after "ironing" down? I think Yelobird has said he has seen NO issues after having performed this repair.
I am still trying to verify that the UV cure adds value. So far the simple iron press and Mylar rings works without further issue with minimal cost or effort.
Quoted from Yelobird:I am still trying to verify that the UV cure adds value. So far the simple iron press and Mylar rings works without further issue with minimal cost or effort.
I should have said "performed the ironing repair with Mylar" and been more specific. I remembered you were still evaluating the UV cure. I can't get anything right today. : (
I just wanted to ad that @yelobird's technique worked very well. The ripples flattened right out, I sealed with the vinyl rings from PinMonk and topped with Titan playfield washers.
I’m considering this repair for some slight pooling on a Wonka I have had for about 3 months. Couple of questions from a relative noob:
1) will the fact that I have had the machine for a few months impact how successful the iron will be? That is, is there a risk that the clear has hardened to where this would be a problem?
2) on the Mylar step, I have seen elsewhere that one should apply wax under Mylar to allow it to be removed & replaced in the future. But it looks from Yelobird and
PinMonk that you should clean the area with alcohol. Is the idea that this is relatively permanent and we shouldn’t plan to ever remove this Mylar under the posts?
Quoted from broada:I’m considering this repair for some slight pooling on a Wonka I have had for about 3 months. Couple of questions from a relative noob:
1) will the fact that I have had the machine for a few months impact how successful the iron will be? That is, is there a risk that the clear has hardened to where this would be a problem?
2) on the Mylar step, I have seen elsewhere that one should apply wax under Mylar to allow it to be removed & replaced in the future. But it looks from yelobird and vireland that you should clean the area with alcohol. Is the idea that this is relatively permanent and we shouldn’t plan to ever remove this Mylar under the posts?
Just did another local friends Wonka with bad pooling and looked like new when done. All in 7 posts and the lane guide by the right spinner in about 30 minutes. No signs there was an issue when we were done. Mine after months now is still like new glad I caught it early so no worries.
For your questions:
1 As long as you repair the damage Before it starts cracking and chipping a few months won't matter. You just can't wait till it hardens and more times then not starts to crack/chip. Once it starts chipping its to late sadly. Rather simple process and Certainly beats doing a playfield swap!
2 Before applying the mylar rings simply clean the area lightly with alcohol. Do not wax you Want the mylar to bond the damaged area Not peel away from it! As a note, you also want to carefully clean the area Prior to heat pressing as you do not want to fuse dirt or debris into the repair.
Good luck with your repair. Really not as scary as you would think and I assure you the result is 100 times better then waiting for it to catastrophically fail.
Quoted from Kevlar:Thanks to Yelobird for the guide, I've just spent a few hours sorting 7 posts pooling on my IMDN pro.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Hot dam that turned out Great! Congrats. Just seen your post glad to see you put in the effort looks Way better now. Bravo!!
Quoted from Yelobird:Just did another local friends Wonka with bad pooling and looked like new when done. All in 7 posts and the lane guide by the right spinner in about 30 minutes. No signs there was an issue when we were done. Mine after months now is still like new glad I caught it early so no worries.
For your questions:
1 As long as you repair the damage Before it starts cracking and chipping a few months won't matter. You just can't wait till it hardens and more times then not starts to crack/chip. Once it starts chipping its to late sadly. Rather simple process and Certainly beats doing a playfield swap!
2 Before applying the mylar rings simply clean the area lightly with alcohol. Do not wax you Want the mylar to bond the damaged area Not peel away from it! As a note, you also want to carefully clean the area Prior to heat pressing as you do not want to fuse dirt or debris into the repair.
Good luck with your repair. Really not as scary as you would think and I assure you the result is 100 times better then waiting for it to catastrophically fail.
Makes sense. Appreciate the advice and all your hard work to put this guide together!
Quoted from broada:Makes sense. Appreciate the advice and all your hard work to put this guide together!
Good luck to you. Always around if you have questions. Just take your time and hopefully this problem will be behind you so you can get back to playing.
Quoted from Yelobird:Just did another local friends Wonka with bad pooling and looked like new when done. All in 7 posts and the lane guide by the right spinner in about 30 minutes. No signs there was an issue when we were done. Mine after months now is still like new glad I caught it early so no worries.
Did you do the UV light, too, or just the vinyl repair iron?
Quoted from PinMonk:Did you do the UV light, too, or just the vinyl repair iron?
Just the iron and Mylar. Turned out perfect.
Quoted from Yelobird:Just the iron and Mylar. Turned out perfect.
Huh? Didn’t you say you had done the UV light as well?
Quoted from KornFreak28:Huh? Didn’t you say you had done the UV light as well?
Yes,I said I tried it on one game (POTC) but I didn’t see a definitive value over just doing the iron. I’m sure it was harder but the simple iron process seems to solve the issue and takes less time.
Quoted from gumnut01:not an option for people in Australia with 240V unfortunately
Think this was already covered. Minor update fixed another Wonka and 2 other older title Mirco Playfields. All turned out great and still not a single issue with my original repair. Think it’s safe to say (for me) this was successful.
Quoted from Yelobird:Think this was already covered. Minor update fixed another Wonka and 2 other older title Mirco Playfields. All turned out great and still not a single issue with my original repair. Think it’s safe to say (for me) this was successful.
What washers did you use? Did you use the silicone ones from Titan?
Quoted from KornFreak28:What washers did you use? Did you use the silicone ones from Titan?
As noted I don't use any washers as I Personally do not see that as needed. I use the mylar cut rings to finish the repaired area before reassembling and never had an issue yet.
Quoted from Yelobird:Time to re-assemble the whole mess! Do note I added a small washer to the back post and recommend the Same on any small diameter post as I believe there is simple to much applied pressure for that small a footprint. Just make sure to put the more radiused side of the washer down not the sharp edge side. Very Important!! Screw the posts in with your fingers NOT a big wrench! When you tighten the top plastic down with the nylon nuts it will be More than tight enough. Less is More! As you can kind of see in the final photos the end result is rather spotless. After a few weeks of observation I have not seen Any deflection or change. Possibly (assumed) the iron is actually heat setting the clear in that area which hopefully minimizes the chance of this crap coming back!
I do hope this helps those that are plagued but this unfortunate event. It truly sucks and is no doubt a blow to this rather Expensive hobby. Let me know if you have questions. I will report back if I see Any change to this repair. On to the Next Flippen game!!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
But you added some to the small posts?
Quoted from KornFreak28:But you added some to the small posts?
That washer was already on my game I simply put it back. Possibly I said it wrong in my post. Adding a slightly larger rigid (metal) base to those slim posts seems like a worthy add. Sorry for any confusion.
Every time this thread gets bumped I'm reminded about how annoyed I am that my playfield artwork is chipping off the field. Grr.
Quoted from smalltownguy2:Every time this thread gets bumped I'm reminded about how annoyed I am that my playfield artwork is chipping off the field. Grr.
Did you try the repair? It really does work and might give you some peace.
Quoted from smalltownguy2:Every time this thread gets bumped I'm reminded about how annoyed I am that my playfield artwork is chipping off the field. Grr.
Sorry your having issues never a fun day. Having repaired hundreds of post pools at this point I am confident this works well and erases the issue with minimal effort. Hoping the OEMs have this issue resolved by now but for the xxxx games out there with this growing issue this seems to work very well. Hope you find a solution to move on and back to pinballing.
I received a replacement playfield from Stern, so I decided to fix my bubbling playfield. I didn't bother ordering an iron as I found a ghetto way of creating my own. I used a cheesy little measuring cup as my metal and heated it with a heat gun. I heated it up to the point that I could barely not touch it with a bare finger. That was the minimum temp that would flatten the clear.
Here is the cheesy tool (filled with paper towel so I could push down on it):
IMG_20190920_201021 (resized).jpg
Here is a before and after:
Before:
IMG_20190920_202751 (resized).jpg
After:
IMG_20190920_205327 (resized).jpg
I did about 6-8 different bubbles with this method. The only negative effects are that the circle of the "iron" left a smoother circle that can only be seen in the most perfect lighting, and this will go away in time, and that the bubble sometimes leaves behind a small line where it was unbound from the PF.
Notice the circular line around the far hole:
IMG_20190920_215405 (resized).jpg
None of this is noticable with plastic washers down. I put on washers with an inner rim to allow for flex, which will lessen pressure to the PF:
Quoted from Tranquilize:I received a replacement playfield from Stern, so I decided to fix my bubbling playfield. I didn't bother ordering an iron as I found a ghetto way of creating my own. I used a cheesy little measuring cup as my metal and heated it with a heat gun. I heated it up to the point that I could barely not touch it with a bare finger. That was the minimum temp that would flatten the clear.
Here is the cheesy tool (filled with paper towel so I could push down on it):
[quoted image]
Here is a before and after:
Before:
[quoted image]
After:
[quoted image]
I did about 6-8 different bubbles with this method. The only negative effects are that the circle of the "iron" left a smoother circle that can only be seen in the most perfect lighting, and this will go away in time, and that the bubble sometimes leaves behind a small line where it was unbound from the PF.
Notice the circular line around the far hole:
[quoted image]
None of this is noticable with plastic washers down. I put on washers with an inner rim to allow for flex, which will lessen pressure to the PF:
[quoted image]
Love the DIY creativity! As long as it works I am glad you gave it a try. Looks Great. To date I have used my little $18 iron so many times it long paid for itself. I do wish it is never again needed but glad I have it. Even fixed a few minor bubbles in some cabinet art which worked rather well.
Quoted from Yelobird:No further issues and past issue is still erased for me. Good luck
Hi Dave. Yelobird
Great idea again by you!!
Just curious how things are holding up with the creative fix - still good?
Quoted from cpr9999:Hi Dave. yelobird
Great idea again by you!!
Just curious how things are holding up with the creative fix - still good?
Still looks like new with no return and lost count how many games I have fixed at this point.
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