What methods are there for DIY artwork on the playfield for a custom pin? I'm considering how I want to put playfield art on my custom pin.

-The easiest would seem to be a printed overlay, but I don't think that's a route I would go.
-There is the possibility to have the playfield direct printed, but you have to send it off to someone else and it's not really a DIY option necessarily.
-There's the potential to DIY layered screen printing, which would be more true to the way PFs were originally done, but is a kind of complex process.

-Then I came up with another idea utilizing a CNC machine:
My current plan is to build a bigger/better CNC machine than I have. I'm going to make one big enough to cut all parts of a pinball machine.

I got to thinking how the CNC machine could be used to paint the PF with paint pens. If you separated the colors out into specific colored dots or lines, it seems like you could run each color through and have the CNC machine put the dots/lines down in the the appropriate color.

Here's a video of a guy using some kind of Sharpie paint pen in a CNC machine:

Can anyone think of why this method wouldn't work, especially for a one-off?

Are there other methods anyone can think of that would use a CNC machine?

It could be an issue. I think he was doing it on paper, though. I would think the PF would need to be sealed before ink/paint went down. Maybe that would reduce the bleeding effect?

Maybe if it was just done as dots, it might give a more consistent look.

Who knows. It wouldn't be an expensive experiment if I already had the CNC machine set up.

That's interesting. I wouldn't be that worried about time for my own purposes. It's not like I'd plan on manufacturing a lot of them. It could take a day per color for all I care as long as it looks good.

That would be cool. A CNC machine isn't that functionally different than printer, it would just need the right head and software to drive it.

That kind of thing won't be coming from me! That's for sure.

However, I think there are people out there working on something like that. People like having multi-functional machines. You can already get the parts necessary to turn a CNC router into a 3D printer.

It wouldn't necessarily have to have a larger capacity. For DIY purposes, just replace the pen when it runs out. If it takes 10 pens of one color for a PF, then so be it.

They have different tips available, too. I wonder if that would help with the consistency.

At any rate, I think it's something I want to experiment with when I get a bigger, more accurate CNC machine.

I also want to try out DIY screen printing. I know I'm oversimplifying it in my head, but the steps needed to make that work make sense to me.

The most relavent example I can find is someone using a Sharpie over sealed wood for a skateboard. They did the Yoda outline with a CNC machine anyway. I don't know how feasible regular Sharpies would be for a PF, but it looks like they got pretty good, smooth results.

http://brianzawesomeblog.blogspot.com/2015/08/building-longboards-in-high-school-wood.html

Here's a marker drawing that looks pretty detailed and consistent:

I would probably attempt silk screens first. I like to experiment and build up my skill set even if it's a skill that won't come in handy that often.

I'm currently working on making a custom early solid state and want to make artwork along the lines of early 80s games. I would likely stick to 6 or fewer colors with silk screening in mind.

I don't have anything yet. Probably a ways off. Just considering options at this point. Thanks for the offer, though!

That's an option, too.

So we're saying potentially mask off areas of solid color and airbrush, then follow up and do black by hand? That would certainly be a DIY option for a one-off.

Taking that one step further, it seems like a CNC machine with a plotter knife could be used to cut out masks for the entire pf for every color layer... maybe even a complex black layer... Weeding and transferring the stencil for a complex black layer would be a pain and might end up being more complicated than a DIY silk screen, but still seems possible.

Assuming I did layered vector art, the complexity with silk screens at the size of a PF, at least in my mind, comes from the need for transparencies to be printed for each layer to use when making the screens, but I would guess is still possible at this size from a professional printer.

Ah, so you're saying lay down the stencil material directly on the PF, laser cut it in place, weed it, spray, remove, dry, repeat with next layer?

A laser product I've been looking at is the L-Cheapo laser. I wonder if it could handle this method.
http://robots-everywhere.com/re_site/purchase/l-cheapo/

True, but if you're already buying supplies necessary for silk screening to do the most complex screen, why not just do them all as silk screens?

Interesting! And certainly appropriate for DIY!

Thanks for sharing that one.

The nice thing about this method is that I happen to own a Silhouette Portrait that could be used for cutting the pages down into the puzzle-like shapes.

Hmm, how feasible would it be to use a plotter knife rather than a laser for this method? The knife would potentially cut into the pf, but it would just be around the edges of each color and might not have much of a detrimental effect. Certainly very detailed images would still pose a challenge with the potential for the knife to pull up parts of the stencil.

Well, whether or not I have a correct mental image, I think I'm understanding the basic concept, and definitely appreciate the input.

I've seen a couple screen printing paints for sale. Is there a reason water soluble paint wouldn't work? Acrylics are recommended for restoration work, and I assume work under clear coats.

Here's some acrylic screen printing ink.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/speedball-permanent-acrylic-screen-printing-ink/

Maybe seal it first?

That Dick Blick link lists wood as a suitable substrate for that Speedball acrylic screen printing ink.

That's something to consider. The screen printing skill could apply to plastics and glass. If I get the CNC machine I want, I could cut the plastics, too, either with a router (which I've done successfully with my current CNC machine using an appropriate endmill) or that L-Cheapo laser if I were to invest in that.

I'll attempt to price it out for a playfield. I'm really not sure on the volumes needed, so just taking a guess. I'm also not sure if I'm selecting compatible inks, emulsion and screens.

Assuming 6 colors, you'd need photo emulsion for 6 screens and then a color of paint/ink per screen.

Maybe a gallon of emulsion could do it? http://www.dickblick.com/products/ulano-fotocoat-fx88-sr-fast-film-emulsion/
$75

Maybe a quart per color? http://www.dickblick.com/products/speedball-permanent-acrylic-screen-printing-ink/
6*$20 = $120

Big enough screen per layer: http://www.dickblick.com/products/orange-monofilament-polyester-screen-fabric/
6*$25 = $150

Frames for stretching the screen. I would probably make these out of wood, so let's assume I use $10 of wood per frame:
6*$10 = $60

Sqeegee: http://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-50-55-durometer-squeegee/
$25

Light source for exposure: Let's assume we need multiple for this size. Maybe 4? http://www.dickblick.com/products/speedball-diazo-light-kit/
4*$31

Am I missing any required components?

The total for these would be: $461 excluding taxes and shipping

That is pricey, but in the pinball world, not too bad, especially considering the price of a 6 color screen printed PF from CPR, though admittedly they're doing clearcoating, too, so that adds onto the DIY price above. Comparatively it would certainly be easier and cost effective to go with a professional printer who can do direct printing and clearcoat for you.

However, the screenprinting method gives you the potential to produce extras on your own, where some of that cost decreases as more PFs are made, if the screens hold up. After the first PF, the additional costs would just be paint.

Sure, small scale would be the starting point for learning.

That's granted! A lot of projects I take on where I learn to use a new method end up taking about twice the supplies I plan on when I originally go into it, just because of mistakes in the learning process.

Ha, on top of that I'm not all that organized. I'm guilty of purchasing duplicate tools simply because I can't find one...

I have purchased and lost the same set of driver and drill bits 3 times.

Hmm... Not sure what the plastic is, but Slugfest does something similar where the playfield art is screened on the bottom of the plastic.

Interesting. I wonder how well it would hold up to a bunch of holes and posts and such. Could cracking be a risk?