(Topic ID: 239188)

DIY Pinball Parts Fabrication -- Show Off Your Homeade Pin Parts


By TractorDoc

86 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Raff
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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    #1 86 days ago

    Sometimes a need arises for a pinball part that is not easily obtainable. It could be a part that is obsolete, rare, or needed to work with available aftermarket parts. I've tried making several parts to replace what is not available or sometimes to improve gameplay or overall aesthetics.

    Starting with something simple, new aftermarket drop target assemblies for Classic Stern games sit a bit lower on the playfield than the originals. The overall height of the new targets were slightly shorter.

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    When installed the targets are less than an inch above the playfield in the raised position.

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    To raise them up I added a new "lip" that the targets rest on to the drop mech assembly.

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    With the new bracket in place the targets are a respectable 1 1/16 inch above the playfield.

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    Post some pictures of parts you have made to make your machine play better.

    #2 86 days ago

    Up next, a Standup Target from Dirty Harry. One of my originals was broken and I was unable to find the plastic replacement targets in this shape anywhere.

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    One day while cleaning out some drawers at work I can across a box of expired rabies tags (I work in a vet clinic). I thought the two shapes looked somewhat similar, and the thickness was the same.

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    A few minutes at the grinding wheel and I had that tag in the shape of a Dirty Harry Standup Target.

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    Drilled a hole in the center, mounted with a new rivet, and applied a new decal (not the original design, I was trying something new).

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    So far the aluminum vs. plastic has not been an issue and the target has been registering normally for 50+ games.

    #3 86 days ago

    Bally wide body apron. I wanted to repaint an apron for a Bally wide body game I was working on, but I did not want to blast the art off the original in case someone wanted to put it back on the machine. I was having no luck finding a used/rusty wide body apron to repaint so I acquired some sheetmetal and made my own.

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    I wonder what game its for?

    3 weeks later
    #4 61 days ago

    Nice job on the apron. How did you get the dimple effect in the instruction card section?

    #5 61 days ago

    Here comes the love

    That's a nice apron. Do you have access to a sheet metal brake? How did you do the pin striping?

    #6 61 days ago

    I have made a couple of light weight mods. Nothing cool like a complete apron.

    #7 61 days ago

    Does a DIY hardtop work?

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    #8 61 days ago

    There are a few homemade items on my Funhouse... But they are mostly under the play field. From memory, Rudy's lower jaw linkage and the steps gate assembly. The bracket above left ramp was mostly a home-brew construction.

    I'm lucky the game even flips. I was literally missing 20+ items for the play field when I bought the game and the only reason it's alive is some random 5+ year old ad on Mr. Pinball with the title "Parting out Funhouse". I sent a PM and after waiting a few weeks, the response was essentially that this person had 15 different assemblies that I needed all bagged and labeled in boxes from a parted out game years ago. I think it was an old operator but I really have no idea. I remember talking to the guy on the phone and I want to say he was form TN but I really can't remember and it was difficult to understand him. I sent him a $80 money order for the parts, if you can believe that. Back in the day, that's how you did it. Everything showed up in better condition than expected.

    #9 61 days ago

    I hand traced the prototype sniper plastic from Judge Dredd, color matched, printed on waterslide decals, adhered to laser cut PETG.

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    #10 61 days ago
    Quoted from wayner:

    How did you get the dimple effect in the instruction card section?

    By using a block of wood and a chisel.trace the square card holder into the wood then chisel out then sit the sheet of metal in there and use a small block of wood and a hammer.Thats what it looks like in the photo.

    #11 61 days ago
    Quoted from Raff:

    By using a block of wood and a chisel.trace the square card holder into the wood then chisel out then sit the sheet of metal in there and use a small block of wood and a hammer.Thats what it looks like in the photo.

    I agree with what you are saying: It looks that i what was done here. But I remember a pair of body shop flanging pliers that might make a nice addition to a tool box.

    https://www.eastwood.com/ew-panel-flanger.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxovMtcrc4QIVzP_jBx1jTwghEAkYAiABEgJ9NvD_BwE

    #12 61 days ago

    That is a nice tool to have.

    #13 60 days ago

    Thanks for the love!

    Quoted from wayner:

    Nice job on the apron. How did you get the dimple effect in the instruction card section?

    Quoted from Raff:

    By using a block of wood and a chisel.trace the square card holder into the wood then chisel out then sit the sheet of metal in there and use a small block of wood and a hammer.Thats what it looks like in the photo.

    Correct you are. I chiseled out the pattern and used another block of wood (with the metal in between) to pound the form in. I had thought of using my pneumatic flanging tool but it has not been working as well after I tried it on some thicker gauge sheet metal.

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    Quoted from cottonm4:

    That's a nice apron. Do you have access to a sheet metal brake? How did you do the pin striping?

    I did not bust out the brake for this one. I used a 2X4 to clamp the metal to the table and then just bent the desired shape over the edge. As you know Cotton, I work with some talented decal people and they cut me a set from vinyl (Don't worry -- those Big Game Spinner Decals are still in the works ). The tricky part was getting those little stripes lined up even.

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    #14 60 days ago
    Quoted from TractorDoc:

    Thanks for the love!

    Correct you are. I chiseled out the pattern and used another block of wood (with the metal in between) to pound the form in. I had thought of using my pneumatic flanging tool but it has not been working as well after I tried it on some thicker gauge sheet metal.
    [quoted image]

    I did not bust out the brake for this one. I used a 2X4 to clamp the metal to the table and then just bent the desired shape over the edge. As you know Cotton, I work with some talented decal people and they cut me a set from vinyl (Don't worry -- those Big Game Spinner Decals are still in the works ). The tricky part was getting those little stripes lined up even.
    [quoted image]

    Doc, you are very talented. An engineer I used to work for said 90% of engineering is knowing what materials are available.

    What type/hardness of metal did you use to make those nice tight bends without benefit of a brake?

    #15 60 days ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Does a DIY hardtop work?
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Tell us about your DIY hardtop, please. It works.

    #16 60 days ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Doc, you are very talented. An engineer I used to work for said 90% of engineering is knowing what materials are available.
    What type/hardness of metal did you use to make those nice tight bends without benefit of a brake?

    I think it may have been 20 gauge sheet metal -- I'd have to go back and measure to be sure. There is a welding shop not far off that I use as a supplier for automotive stuff, they have sheets of various thicknesses to pick from.

    The trick to the bends is to clamp the small/short section under the 2X4 and then use the leverage of the large section to make a crisp fold/crease.

    #17 60 days ago

    Chicago Coin Sound Stage uses a photo cell to register the spins on the wheel. The one on my game gave up.
    Took an oil burner cad cell $3.98 and a piece of laminate and made my own. I had to add the cover with a hole in it because it was too sensitive. I had the game almost 4 years and never had a problem.
    First photo is original
    Next two photos: fabbed switch with another cad cell next to it.

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    #18 58 days ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Tell us about your DIY hardtop, please. It works.

    Print out new playfield art, laser cut PETG sheet with holes for playfield. Disassemble top end completely, lay down new art followed by PETG, reassemble.

    1 month later
    #19 7 days ago

    New Bottom Panel for a Bally Fathom Cabinet.

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    #20 2 days ago

    nice job

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