(Topic ID: 316501)

DIY Pinball Flipper Coil Fans

By awesome1

1 year ago


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  • 130 posts
  • 47 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by awesome1
  • Topic is favorited by 123 Pinsiders

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    There are 130 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
    15
    #1 1 year ago

    I've had a few requests to make a new topic post on my DIY flipper coil fans... so here it is.

    I am not trying to take any business away from modders who offer quality products. If you prefer easy to install solutions with all the parts you need, then the coil fan kits available on Pinside will work great for you.

    If like me, you wanted to add coil fans to several games, a DIY approach was required to keep costs lower. I’m a tinkerer by nature anyway…

    I have noticed the effects of flipper fade on some of my Stern machines because I often play sessions of multiple hours consecutively on the same machine. My single longest game of pinball to date was 90 minutes on AIQ and fans help considerably on that game! Once I saw and felt the effects of fan cooling the flipper coils (I’m in the Chiller system manufacturing business, so keeping the coils cooled to help maximize performance always made sense to me) I wanted to do it to all of my Stern machines as one of my first mods when I get them, so I don’t have to worry about flipper fade.

    My DIY design is pretty simple and you don't need a 3D printer. For Stern Spike 2 machines - I use 40mm 12VDC fans with a rubber bumper mounted to it to allow space for airflow, loosely tie wrapped directly to each coil. Wire to 12 VDC at CN6 on the backbox power supply. I use a 1 amp fuse and also a diode for protection on the power line that feeds all of the fans.

    I’ll soon be adding posts to show what parts I use. It becomes more cost effective, basically the more pinball machines you need to add fans to since some of the items you need to buy have some minimum quantities.

    If you have questions, your own success stories or your own way of cooling flipper coils – this is the place to discuss it. I’m starting with Stern Spike 2 machines, but all pinball machines are open to discussion.

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    #2 1 year ago

    That's pretty terrific. I'm awaiting to see more from this thread.

    #3 1 year ago

    I like the approach! Since you are the engineer, her are a couple of things to think about:

    Would removing the paper help? It is an insulator, although minimal, but he uneven wiring underneath would provide far more surface area for the air movement to cool, so more efficient, right?

    Use a metal bumper instead of rubber, would it act as a heat sink?

    #4 1 year ago

    where can I buy parts if I want to try this ? Thanks

    #6 1 year ago

    Pretty much how I do it.

    #7 1 year ago
    Quoted from Black_Knight:

    I like the approach! Since you are the engineer, her are a couple of things to think about:
    Would removing the paper help? It is an insulator, although minimal, but he uneven wiring underneath would provide far more surface area for the air movement to cool, so more efficient, right?
    Use a metal bumper instead of rubber, would it act as a heat sink?

    I've thought about removing the paper myself. Even though the wire is insulated, I guess it could get nicked and allow a possible short if it touched something conductive. I assume this is why they have the paper on there in the first place.

    #8 1 year ago

    I've had many with a narrow paper band instead of the entire length of the coil.

    I think the are just considered labels, but your theory may also be true.

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from awesome1:

    For Stern Spike 2 machines - I use 40mm 12VDC fans with a rubber bumper mounted to it to allow space for airflow, loosely tie wrapped directly to each coil. Wire to 12 VDC at CN6 on the backbox power supply. I use a 1 amp fuse and also a diode for protection on the power line that feeds all of the fans.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    I have literally just finished installing some on my IMDN, though incustom made some stainless steel brackets.

    Could you post a picture of the wiring of the fuse and diodes? ATM i am just running them direct from CN6, which seems ok. Protection is always good though!

    Here is my set up. These quiet fans were extras I bought when buying a fan to replace the noisy Spooky psu fan. They came with bare wires so I have had to source 2 pin molex connectors. Could not find the smaller ones shown on your fans.

    Skippy2904

    FC4F6A6F-E5D9-456B-B151-E580E780EE94 (resized).jpegFC4F6A6F-E5D9-456B-B151-E580E780EE94 (resized).jpeg
    #10 1 year ago

    A buddy 3D printed the red fan mounts for me

    $12 for two 12v fans from Amazon and $5 for the connector from PBL with an inline fuse to the spare 12v port near the coin door on Spike 2.

    I had spare wires and connectors to extend from the fans to the game's 12v.

    Such an effective cheap alternative to the pricey mod.

    https://www.pinballlife.com/spike-12-volt-backbox-power-adapter-cable.html

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    #11 1 year ago

    Following. Very interested!

    #12 1 year ago

    Here’s how the cooling fan circuit looks on a schematic.

    Additional fans can be added in parallel just like the two fans shown. Make sure the total current draw is under 1 amp. Most fans in this class are 0.08 ~ 0.12 amps, so 2 ~ 4 fans shouldn’t be an issue.

    There’s a few different places you can power the fans from, I just prefer direct from the power supply 12VDC. I use a 1 amp fuse and also a diode for protection. Fuse prevents overcurrent damage and diode prevents any reverse current flow from the fans to the power supply. Both are cheap insurance and recommended.

    awesome1 Flipper Coil Fan wiring schematic stern spike2.jpgawesome1 Flipper Coil Fan wiring schematic stern spike2.jpg Added 14 months ago:

    Updated wiring schematic showing diode in parallel around fans instead of in series.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-pinball-flipper-coil-fans/page/2#post-7389130

    #13 1 year ago

    I use a 1 amp automotive fuse, cheap and easy to use and connect with 0.250” quick disconnects. I use 18 awg wire. I also use the male & female quick disconnect to join the fans together to the main power and ground wires.

    I had a bunch of the 1N4004 diodes from other projects. I solder them directly inline with the wire and then shrink tube over it.

    IDC style 3 position connector to connect to CN6 on the power supply board in backbox.

    IMG_2539 (resized).JPGIMG_2539 (resized).JPGIMG_2541 (resized).JPGIMG_2541 (resized).JPGIMG_2542 (resized).JPGIMG_2542 (resized).JPG Added 14 months ago:

    Updated picture of diode in parallel with fans instead of in series.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-pinball-flipper-coil-fans/page/2#post-7389126

    #14 1 year ago

    Here's a pic of essentially all of the parts you will need. 18 awg wire and some tie wraps are not shown. You will also need a crimper for the quick disconnects and soldering iron for the diode.

    IMG_2520 (resized).JPGIMG_2520 (resized).JPG
    #15 1 year ago

    The same approach can be used on magnets as well! Here’s what I did on Godzilla:

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    #16 1 year ago

    Fans:

    These are cheap for a set of 4 in this 40mm form factor which is just about the same length as the coil. I use the 12VDC style and try to stay in the 0.08 ~ 0.12 amp current draw per fan, while looking for the highest CFM rating. These fans won’t move a ton of air, but you can feel it with your hand and it is plenty to cool the coils. Personally, I don’t use the add-on grills. If you touch the spinning fan with your finger, I’ve never been hurt, but feel free to use them if you like.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9W1JGB

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    #17 1 year ago

    Such a simple and effective solution. Kudos and thank you.

    #18 1 year ago
    Quoted from RTS:

    A buddy 3D printed the red fan mounts for me
    $12 for two 12v fans from Amazon and $5 for the connector from PBL with an inline fuse to the spare 12v port near the coin door on Spike 2.
    I had spare wires and connectors to extend from the fans to the game's 12v.
    Such an effective cheap alternative to the pricey mod.
    https://www.pinballlife.com/spike-12-volt-backbox-power-adapter-cable.html
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    RTS any chance you have the STL for those mounts?

    awesome1 thanks for this write up, just got my first two Sterns (Zilla and Deadpool), definitely planning on building this!

    #20 1 year ago

    I do sell plug and play coil cooler kits if you aren't brave enough, however I strongly suggest anyone capable of doing this themselves to do so. Its not impossible and it offers a great improvement to gameplay. I will be following and will try to help where I can. Dont skip the diode when building the power harness.

    #21 1 year ago

    Thanks!

    Of course I didn’t search for “coil” ‍♂️ Ever other keyword wasn’t returning anything.

    Much appreciated!

    #22 1 year ago
    Quoted from DigitalJedi084:

    Thanks!
    Of course I didn’t search for “coil” ‍♂️ Ever other keyword wasn’t returning anything.
    Much appreciated!

    Thingiverse has the worst search function I have ever run across... I knew what to search for and still had a hard time pulling them up.

    1 week later
    #23 1 year ago

    awesome1 thanks for both sharing this and also pointing me here from the GZ thread. You da man.

    1 week later
    #24 1 year ago

    I did this last night. Didn't wanna order new fans so used 4020, 4010, and 6020 I had around house. I can't recommend 6020, harder to affix with zip ties but 4020 is nice. I figure only time to use 4010 is if space is an issue...

    While you are at it, if you haven't already for spike2, consider putting a 6020 fan on the PSU to keep the noisy stock fan from coming on.. does require a 3d printed adapter but if you can do that I think it's worth it..you can just wire it to your coil fan circuit

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-stern-power-supply-fan-experiment-internal-vs-external

    Here's a picture of my really janky setup before I put it in..forgot to take a pic under the playfield, but it cleaned up nicely (transformer was just for testing, I hooked fans up to the ticket dispenser header)

    PXL_20220622_022833295 (resized).jpgPXL_20220622_022833295 (resized).jpg
    1 week later
    #25 1 year ago

    To follow up... here's completed installation (2 flippers) on a Deadpool.

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    #26 1 year ago

    Completed installation on Godzilla (3 flippers and 1 magnet)

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    1 week later
    #27 1 year ago

    Zip tying directly to the coil...
    Ok noob question. I've been told over and over again, "don't touch the coils when they fire, you can die." Is it safe to zip tie directly to them because it's not touching the contacts and the wires are insulated?
    Thanks

    #28 1 year ago
    Quoted from javagrind888:

    Zip tying directly to the coil...
    Ok noob question. I've been told over and over again, "don't touch the coils when they fire, you can die." Is it safe to zip tie directly to them because it's not touching the contacts and the wires are insulated?
    Thanks

    Yes, everything is insulated and Stern is using 48VDC to power the coils, so I don't think it will kill you, but you should be careful around all electrical circuits. The wires that wrap the coils themselves are also insulated, but the voltage is exposed at the terminals.

    I have several thousand plays across multiple machines with my DIY flipper coil fans mod and have not had a single issue.

    #29 1 year ago
    Quoted from awesome1:

    Yes, everything is insulated and Stern is using 48VDC to power the coils, so I don't think it will kill you, but you should be careful around all electrical circuits. The wires that wrap the coils themselves are also insulated, but the voltage is exposed at the terminals.
    I have several thousand plays across multiple machines with my DIY flipper coil fans mod and have not had a single issue.

    This is outstanding helping us all avoid the extremely high costs of buying these from a modder. Hats off to you awesome1 for sharing this good system with us.

    #30 1 year ago
    Quoted from awesome1:

    Completed installation on Godzilla (3 flippers and 1 magnet)
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    How important is cooling the magnet? Did you have issues that cooling the magnet solves? I know sometimes my magnet does. Not catch, unsure if that's from the coil being too hot.

    Also, is there a benefit to providing more than just a little bit of air to these? I put a real hodge podge of fans on mine ,. 10mm thick, 20mm thick, some 24v (so running at 25% power, still decent airflow), I only made sure they all put a little airflow over it.. will my flippers perform even better if I have more airflow?

    #31 1 year ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    How important is cooling the magnet? Did you have issues that cooling the magnet solves? I know sometimes my magnet does. Not catch, unsure if that's from the coil being too hot.
    Also, is there a benefit to providing more than just a little bit of air to these? I put a real hodge podge of fans on mine ,. 10mm thick, 20mm thick, some 24v (so running at 25% power, still decent airflow), I only made sure they all put a little airflow over it.. will my flippers perform even better if I have more airflow?

    The cooler the flipper coil the stronger it is. As electricity moves thru wire it creates friction which builds heat. Heat as we know expands things. With expansion electrons have to "jump" further to the next outer valence shell of the nearest copper atom, increasing electrical resistance measured in ohms, voltage remains un-changed from power source, simple ohms law here show less amperage draw decreasing the wattage/power, decreasing the magnetic field strength which pulls in the solenoid.

    #32 1 year ago

    Nice mod.. since I don't have a 3d printer or someone to print for me, i bought mine from Slapdrain. Great price, looks awesome, and easy and great communication. And waaaayyy below the other fan guy. Great alternative and price point.

    #33 1 year ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    How important is cooling the magnet? Did you have issues that cooling the magnet solves? I know sometimes my magnet does. Not catch, unsure if that's from the coil being too hot.
    Also, is there a benefit to providing more than just a little bit of air to these? I put a real hodge podge of fans on mine ,. 10mm thick, 20mm thick, some 24v (so running at 25% power, still decent airflow), I only made sure they all put a little airflow over it.. will my flippers perform even better if I have more airflow?

    I had heard on early code on Godzilla that there were issues with the magnet getting too hot. I personally never noticed any issues (I think .91 was latest on delivery), but I installed my DIY fans pretty soon after getting my game, so not a lot of games played at that point.

    More air could potentially help cool more. There becomes diminishing returns, because you can only cool the coil to a certain temperature differential (Delta T) based on the surrounding air temperature and the heat generated by the coil. I haven't had the opportunity to try higher or lower CFM fans and measure differences. The flippers will never perform better than when you first power the game on... they may remain at that power with cooling fans, but won't get better since you will never cool them below ambient temperature.

    In the 40 x 10mm fans I am using, I did search for higher CFM and the ones I got are ~5.5 CFM which is a decent flow for this small fan, but we are also limited by the 12VDC supply I am using.

    These little fans definitely help reduce flipper fade and I've played several 2-3 hour or longer straight sessions on many of my games and can open the coin door and grab the flipper coil and it will only be warm to the touch.

    #34 1 year ago

    Here is my DIY on a LOTR. $35 all in with Amazon parts and electrical tape. No tools other than pliers.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-amazon-flipper-coil-kit-25-35-no-tools-5-minutes#post-7028791

    3 weeks later
    #35 1 year ago

    Any reason why not to hook up to CN11 in the cab instead of routing up to CN6 in the backbox?

    #36 1 year ago
    Quoted from aaron6920:

    Any reason why not to hook up to CN11 in the cab instead of routing up to CN6 in the backbox?

    Nope. I used CN11.

    #37 1 year ago

    Following

    15
    #38 1 year ago

    Here’s mine. Laugh all you want - it works swell.

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    #39 1 year ago
    Quoted from jackd104:

    Here’s mine. Laugh all you want - it works swell. [quoted image]

    And it is movable from pin to pin with a rock bottom cost of 0 because you have one already I like your style

    #40 1 year ago
    Quoted from RTS:

    Nope. I used CN11.

    Thanks I think I will as well, just a little cleaner install.

    #41 1 year ago

    Could you please list the items needed by name
    As I can do this and am very excited to try
    But my vocabulary is lacking and unsure of what to look for or how to find the needed parts.

    Also thanks for creating this thread.

    #42 1 year ago
    Quoted from aaron6920:

    Thanks I think I will as well, just a little cleaner install.

    Remember to leave slack so it doesn't pull when you slide the pf back.

    #43 1 year ago

    Bumpers that go on fan

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N74P0QB

    Fans I bought: many others will work

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9W1JGB

    Fuse Holder: (this is slow blow fuse style) 5mm x 20mm. You could also use automotive style fuse holder. Or simply use spade terminal and go directly to either end of fuse. I just got this style because I have plenty of this style fuse. 1 AMP

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JW375QZ/ref=redir_mobile_desktop

    5 Position if connecting to CN11
    https://www.pinballlife.com/100-idc-5-position-connector-for-22-gauge-wire-19105.html

    3 Position if using CN6
    https://www.pinballlife.com/156-396mm-idc-3-position-connector-for-18-gauge-wire.html

    Diode:
    https://www.pinballlife.com/diode-1n4004.html

    #44 1 year ago
    Quoted from Apollo18:

    Could you please list the items needed by name
    As I can do this and am very excited to try
    But my vocabulary is lacking and unsure of what to look for or how to find the needed parts.
    Also thanks for creating this thread.

    Sorry meant to quote this see my message above.

    #45 1 year ago
    Quoted from aaron6920:

    Any reason why not to hook up to CN11 in the cab instead of routing up to CN6 in the backbox?

    Quoted from RTS:

    Nope. I used CN11.

    Either will work fine. Just based on your preference. CN6 stays powered even when you open the coin door.

    #46 1 year ago

    Anyone else too nervous to connect to anything to the pin boards? I tend to use the service plug and an adapter (millions of em always sitting around). Since I use Alexa to start my pins, they always power down when turning off the pins. I also installed a rocker switch so I could turn fans off if I want. Just nervous to blow the machine up i guess.

    Quoted from awesome1:

    Either will work fine. Just based on your preference. CN6 stays powered even when you open the coin door.

    #47 1 year ago
    Quoted from jedi42:

    Anyone else too nervous to connect to anything to the pin boards? I tend to use the service plug and an adapter (millions of em always sitting around). Since I use Alexa to start my pins, they always power down when turning off the pins. I also installed a rocker switch so I could turn fans off if I want. Just nervous to blow the machine up i guess.

    CN6 and CN11 can only support 2 amps each max (12 VDC), so as long as you stay well below that and don't have other mods that add up to go beyond those current draw numbers, you should be fine.

    If wired properly with fuse and diode, there shouldn't be any issues using a Stern 12V connection as the fans have very low current draw and you have overcurrent and reverse current protection. I have thousands of plays on my games with DIY cooling fans.

    Ultimately you should do whatever you are comfortable with. Using a separate power supply is perfectly fine.

    #48 1 year ago
    Quoted from jedi42:

    Anyone else too nervous to connect to anything to the pin boards? I tend to use the service plug and an adapter (millions of em always sitting around). Since I use Alexa to start my pins, they always power down when turning off the pins. I also installed a rocker switch so I could turn fans off if I want. Just nervous to blow the machine up i guess.

    I agree with you. I run my DIY speaker lights and cooling fans off a mini power strip connected to the service outlet.

    #49 1 year ago
    Quoted from jackd104:

    Here’s mine. Laugh all you want - it works swell.

    I've actually considered this or something like it. Seems like the machines just need more airflow overall.

    #50 1 year ago
    Quoted from jackd104:

    Here’s mine. Laugh all you want - it works swell. [quoted image]

    This will definitely work - just not as 'elegant' looking.

    It's the cab resting on the floor or table that's a little weird...

    There are 130 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.

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