(Topic ID: 253917)

DIY: 'LISY', a replacement MPU for Gottlieb, Bally & Stern

By bontango

4 years ago


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  • 88 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 34 hours ago by bontango
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    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider slochar.
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    #17 4 years ago
    Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

    I wonder how complicated it is to use Your LISY1 on a Gottlieb Joker Poker SS - original ruleset BUT changing the "times five bonus multiplier" to "times two bonus multiplier" ?

    https://www.flipprojets.fr/Downloads_EN.php

    Sample code from Cleopatra if you want to see what's involved with modifying System 1 code. Looks like it could be done if you are so inclined, the syntax looks really, really, simple. Likely the 5x code is going to be TEST [5X lamp], SCORE 1000, 5 (for the 10's, for instance). So you'd change the 5 to a 2 to get 2x bonus instead.

    Implementing the ruleset with non-resetting the drop banks like the EM does, looks like the solenoid command is SET S[olenoid #].
    You should be able to grab the Cleopatra personality rom, match it up with the code they posted, and then duplicate it for Joker Poker.

    #19 4 years ago

    To clarify my post, I was referring to the original prom in original boardset (and presumably, the rom put into a LISY board). Reverse engineering code isn't for everyone though. Sometimes it truly is easier to re-write the whole thing, especially with very simple ruleset games like all system 1's are.

    9 months later
    #46 3 years ago
    Quoted from matiou:

    By the way I replaced the switched bulbs with LEDs, and they don't seem to flicker... usually with these 80's bally lamp boards, you have to add 470 ohm resistors in parallel to prevent flickering... Would that mean LISY is using a different way to turn on/off the lamps, which would mean I won't have to add resistors ? (I tested only using the LISY test mode for now, not in game mode)

    It depends on where in the zero crossing cycle they are refreshing the bulbs' status.

    3 months later
    #102 3 years ago

    You'll have to recode the whole game.

    #122 3 years ago
    Quoted from northvibe:

    If you want your game "stock" then the fpga version is just fine. If you want to swap games, test, or tinker with settings/rules, then go with the lisy version.

    Or I would assume you could tinker with the rules natively and run it on the FPGA version since you can change roms on that correct? Trying to see if there's some advantage (i.e. is there a debugger built in would be the major one for me) to getting this setup vs. just popping chips into the weebly.

    #124 3 years ago
    Quoted from northvibe:

    That may be how the MPF works for this setup?

    MPF is a recreation of the game in some other format rather than native AFAIK.

    I guess if there's some 'intercept' capability in LISY you could piecemeal replace rules although that would get sloppy quickly.

    #126 3 years ago
    Quoted from northvibe:

    The fpga I would think would only be the rom edit method?

    If that's the case and there's no additional debugging capability in it, I'll just stick with the normal boards. I'm sure eventually I'll get one to fart around with.

    1 month later
    #249 3 years ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    I've got ten of those pop bumper driver boards built. Now I am waiting for parts to build the PIC programmer so I can program the PIC chip on them.
    It would be nice to install some on system 1 games to improve the pop bumper function. One thing to note about these pop bumper bumper boards: you can adjust (via jumper blocks) the pulse duration to the coil as well as the debounce time period for the spoon switch. That makes these boards more versatile than the originals. Also includes a test switch, a five volt power indicator LED, and a coil voltage indicator LED. I used a TIP102 transistor instead of the TIP120.

    I've done this with regular gottlieb pbdb on system ones and it works great. I didn't know you can adjust the denounce on the pic version so I'll have to try some of these out.

    2 months later
    #457 3 years ago
    Quoted from heckheck:

    The wiring mod is what always kept me from always doing this on my Paragon.

    It's really simple....

    2 months later
    #593 2 years ago

    JLC was out of stock on C5 for the gottlieb 7 digit displays - what voltage do I need to order for this so I can install it manually once I receive the boards?

    Also, are the schematics available for the displays? I could have probably looked at those to figure this out too.

    4 weeks later
    #631 2 years ago

    jokrpokr

    #633 2 years ago

    run pinmame with -list and it will tell you
    -listfull will give you descriptions as well

    3 weeks later
    #648 2 years ago

    Do the FPGA versions run 6800/6821 cores or is it still running pinmame on another core?

    1 week later
    #660 2 years ago

    Top Tip: when installing your LED blocks in the LISY 80 displays, do not install them upside down.

    Then the center segment becomes the dot and vice versa.

    Whoops.

    (sorry no pic.... I already desoldered it and flipped it over to the proper direction).

    #664 2 years ago

    Uhoh - I let the magic smoke(s) out....

    History.... got machine (jacks to open) and one original display not working, and one p2/p4 digit locked on. Rottendog replacement mpu, Gulf pinball PS. Get the locked digits going and got a replacement display from a pinsider, which initially worked ok. Went to keep shopping and the new display craps out, figure it was just its time, etc. - disconnect and keep going. Then, all displays out, gulf pinball display section smoked, no schematics available, not paying $80 for another. It was blowing fuse F3 as well.

    Go for the LISY design and the new PS/displays - had to repin a couple of the display harness connectors, visible sparking on the input voltage pin on 2x displays, so repinned both of those. Working fine up until a couple days ago, turned it on and display is incorrect on the credit display and other displays are really dim/off. It had blown F3 again.

    Disconnected all displays and PS, tested input voltage for displays 60vac ok, hooked up PS, test voltages, all ok. (+5 is 4.9 where it was 5.1 when I first installed PS, but likely not important). Reconnected only credit display, still has bad info on display but lit. (power off between all connect/disconnect of course) - I did do the 10ohm mod for the displays on the PS when I built it (I ordered enough parts to build 10 boards, still have 4-5 to build up) Hooked up the p1 display and smoked what I think is the power regulator, and the 10 ohm current limited resistor blew as well, and F3 blew again as well.

    I know it's never the transformer.... but do you think it could be the transformer? It doesn't blow F3 without anything hooked up to it, didn't blow it without the displays connected, but did blow (see pictures) when I hooked up the display. There was a big spark at the connector similar to what I noticed when the connector needed to be repinned.

    I do have one spare display board that I can move the LED digits over to but I'd like to nail this down if I can before hand so I don't just blow them all up. I did turn up the brightness on all the displays as they were too dim - possibly the current just isn't enough to run all the displays so caused an undue load?

    Any other thoughts?

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    6 months later
    #884 2 years ago
    Quoted from koji:

    I don't really understand how these 6 to 7 digit are implemented using the Oliver rom, I imagine it is divide by 10 from the Rom, and the displays give it a 0 pad? Or is it a means where there are additional H/W adjustments needed beyond the display?

    Yes depending on which game you have to add a wire and sometimes a small IC.

    #889 2 years ago

    Iirc the new weebly boards have the decoder for those that need it. Basically it's going to be any Bally game with the -32 or -51 sound board as the 7th digit select is sound line E on those boards.

    Xpin is doing something completely different with their 7lution displays.

    #892 2 years ago
    Quoted from koji:

    .. So am I misreading this thst it still actually does need that extra wiring? And I'm just skipping the extra board?

    Yep you have to get the signal to the display somehow. Good that the decoder is already on the board.

    #895 2 years ago

    There's no wire in the harness to the digit enable on the displays though that needs to be added.

    #897 2 years ago

    That's odd it's in the display and not just one in the connector or near the mpu. Hence my confusion.
    Mine are all on perfboard hanging on the connector and harness but those games just have -35 boards.

    1 week later
    #908 2 years ago
    Quoted from 80spit:

    Display question
    I'm ready to order a bunch of 6 digit gottlieb display boards, just want to see if this will work with a stock mpu verses the lisy mpu
    Before I order them
    Thanks
    Gerry

    Yes they will

    #911 2 years ago
    Quoted from mrsodapop:

    Have a video to get a general idea, but so far have not figured out how to post a video.

    upload video to youtube and put a link in pinside it will embed

    1 month later
    #953 2 years ago

    https://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_d7.html

    You need the helper board unless the LISY board has this enabled already.

    The 'bootleg 7 digit' on ipdb is Oliver's rom. No idea what the kissc is supposed to be.

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