(Topic ID: 253917)

DIY: 'LISY', a replacement MPU for Gottlieb, Bally & Stern


By bontango

1 year ago



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    There are 408 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 9.
    #351 7 days ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    I copied over the HEX files for the Bally LCD display and the Bally tester to try those. When I try to program those I also get a verify failure. However if I pick a built in hex file for the LISY35 it can program the larger PIC successfully. So it looks like the programmer itself is assembled correcty. Just an issue with any other hex files I try to add.

    It depends on the 'mode' of the hex file for the PIC.
    My programmer can only program PICs in 'low voltage mode'.
    PIC programs for older LISY versions are in 'high voltage mode' so during the programming the mode changes.
    After that the programmer can not access the PIC anymore, hence the verify error.

    I will have a look to my 'old versions' and create a list what hex files are working with my programmer and what not.
    The current pop bumper driver program is a 'high voltage mode' version.
    It is still on my todo list to create a low voltage version ... too many things in parallel, sorry.

    #352 7 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    It depends on the 'mode' of the hex file for the PIC.
    My programmer can only program PICs in 'low voltage mode'.
    PIC programs for older LISY versions are in 'high voltage mode' so during the programming the mode changes.
    After that the programmer can not access the PIC anymore, hence the verify error.
    I will have a look to my 'old versions' and create a list what hex files are working with my programmer and what not.
    The current pop bumper driver program is a 'high voltage mode' version.
    It is still on my todo list to create a low voltage version ... too many things in parallel, sorry.

    That’s ok. If that is the reason then at least that explains it. If possible a list of ones that are high voltage ones would help. I wasn’t aware there were two different modes. Since the other images included on the pic programmer image work then the programmer is probably fine.

    Any suggestions on a programmer that will support the PIC chips used in the LISY projects in high voltage mode?

    Thank you

    #353 6 days ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    Any suggestions on a programmer that will support the PIC chips used in the LISY projects in high voltage mode?

    If you don't mind when it works sometimes only at the second try you can go for a cheap China Pickit3 clone
    and use the free Microchip Software tools ( MPLAB X IDE which includes MPLAB X IPE -> programming environment)

    e.g. this one: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32844907068.html

    #354 6 days ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    When I click on the hex file for the pop bumper driver board on the LISY website, it opens up as a text file. I can't get this file onto the PIC Programmer board. I want to be able to program the PICs on those pop bumper boards so I can actually use them in a machine.

    You can do a 'right click -> save as', but as explained this version will not work with my picprogrammer.

    I made a new version in LVP mode which should work:
    http://www.flipperkeller.de/lisy/PBDB_1_3.zip

    HOWEVER YOU NEED TO DO A SMALL MODIFICATION TO THE PCB.

    Connect pin7 of the PIC to Gnd (see picture below).

    Without this mod the input on that pin 'floats' which will move the PIC sometimes
    to LVP programming mode, eventually resulting in a stuck solenoid!

    Please let me know if it works for you

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #355 6 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    Thanks for the videos, it helped to identify the problem and I think I found the reason.
    With the last kernel update ( Raspbian which is now called Raspberry Pi OS) they also introduced
    some I2C driver updates which 'solved' problems on the PI3A. Looks like the I2C performance
    on PI3 is now better, but this overruns the display PIC when using 80B games.
    ( much more traffic there in comparison to 80 and 80A games)
    ( btw: can you confirm that with the PI3A after boot the green AND the red LED is on, where with the Pi zero it is only the green LED?)

    I found a parameter to lower the I2C speed which should help.
    can you please try to edit the file 'config.txt' in the root folder of the SD card?
    Goto line #46 which should be "dtparam=i2c_arm=on" and change it to "dtparam=i2c_arm=on,i2c_arm_baudrate=40000"
    This will lower the I2C frequency to 40KHz (default 100KHz) and should work with PI Zero, PI3A and other PI variants
    After positive confirmation from your side I will make this setting the default.

    Correct, green & red LED's are on.

    Made the changes and tested the board, now I have some good and bad news:
    - the good news is the display is working as it should and the red LED is off
    - the bad news is i lost sound, only the special effect sounds are working but background music is gone. Tried with the original version on a Pi0 again and the sound is back, so must have something todo with the changed i2c parameter.

    #356 6 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    You can do a 'right click -> save as', but as explained this version will not work with my picprogrammer.
    I made a new version in LVP mode which should work:
    http://www.flipperkeller.de/lisy/PBDB_1_3.zip
    HOWEVER YOU NEED TO DO A SMALL MODIFICATION TO THE PCB.
    Connect pin7 of the PIC to Gnd (see picture below).
    Without this mod the input on that pin 'floats' which will move the PIC sometimes
    to LVP programming mode, eventually resulting in a stuck solenoid!
    Please let me know if it works for you[quoted image]

    So should that mod be done on all of these boards? Looks like an easy update. Sounds like this is to improve reliability and not specific to initial programming of the chip.

    #357 6 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    You can do a 'right click -> save as', but as explained this version will not work with my picprogrammer.
    I made a new version in LVP mode which should work:
    http://www.flipperkeller.de/lisy/PBDB_1_3.zip
    HOWEVER YOU NEED TO DO A SMALL MODIFICATION TO THE PCB.
    Connect pin7 of the PIC to Gnd (see picture below).
    Without this mod the input on that pin 'floats' which will move the PIC sometimes
    to LVP programming mode, eventually resulting in a stuck solenoid!
    Please let me know if it works for you[quoted image]

    That new HEX file worked great! With that I was able to program the PIC using the LISY programmer. Now I can finish those boards.

    What should the default pulse time and debounce be set to start with? Would like to pick settings that closely match the original pop bumper boards.

    #358 6 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    As this is a Williams Displayboard from someone else I cannot say much sorry.
    Can you please open a new thread and ask for help there?
    It's a bit 'off topic'

    Sorry about that, this is the same display board that Hockymutt posted in this thread on page 6, but I have no idea if it's a Lisy.

    #359 6 days ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    That new HEX file worked great! With that I was able to program the PIC using the LISY programmer. Now I can finish those boards.
    What should the default pulse time and debounce be set to start with? Would like to pick settings that closely match the original pop bumper boards.

    Did some more tests and I was able to program the Bally tester and the Bally display PIC's with the LISY tester. The only ones giving me the verify errors were the original pop bumper hex file and the Gottlieb display hex file. The new pop bumper hex file works well so the only one left that I can't program is the Gottlieb display PIC. That one isn't a high priority so can wait until I get that other programmer.

    #360 6 days ago
    Quoted from donjagra:

    Sorry about that, this is the same display board that Hockymutt posted in this thread on page 6, but I have no idea if it's a Lisy.

    IMHO the one posted by Hockymutt is a version created by 'Amoksolderer' together with his APC project, not the one from baumfalk.net page.
    but I could be wrong. Here is the APC Thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/arduino-pinball-controller/page/3
    You may find something there ..
    hope that helps

    #361 6 days ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    So should that mod be done on all of these boards? Looks like an easy update. Sounds like this is to improve reliability and not specific to initial programming of the chip.

    Yes, will not hurt with the High Voltage mode to set that pin to GND.
    This is the PGM pin used in low voltage mode only.

    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    What should the default pulse time and debounce be set to start with? Would like to pick settings that closely match the original pop bumper boards.

    start with no jumpers at all which is the default setting, , this should be same behaviour as with the original boards.
    Default pulse time is 40ms

    #362 6 days ago
    Quoted from PinMario:

    Made the changes and tested the board, now I have some good and bad news:
    - the good news is the display is working as it should and the red LED is off
    - the bad news is i lost sound, only the special effect sounds are working but background music is gone. Tried with the original version on a Pi0 again and the sound is back, so must have something todo with the changed i2c parameter.

    OK, need to dig into that, thx for testing

    #363 6 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    IMHO the one posted by Hockymutt is a version created by 'Amoksolderer' together with his APC project, not the one from baumfalk.net page.
    but I could be wrong. Here is the APC Thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/arduino-pinball-controller/page/3
    You may find something there ..
    hope that helps

    I really appreciate it. Sorry for the hijack.

    #364 6 days ago

    Hello, about to try ordering some LED displays, I was wondering if there are any documentation or particular installation steps to be aware of? Thank you-

    #365 6 days ago
    Quoted from koji:

    about to try ordering some LED displays, I was wondering if there are any documentation or particular installation steps to be aware of?

    Bally or Gottlieb Displays?

    #366 6 days ago
    Quoted from PinMario:

    the bad news is i lost sound, only the special effect sounds are working but background music is gone.

    can you please do another try by changing the setting to 200KHz?
    so the line will look like that:
    dtparam=i2c_arm=on,i2c_arm_baudrate=200000

    #367 6 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    Bally or Gottlieb Displays?

    Gottlieb displays in this case.. but I'll likely try both at some point.

    Thank you-

    #368 6 days ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    Would like to pick settings that closely match the original pop bumper boards.

    Gottlieb original 74121 PBDB coil pulse length
    Tw(ns) = K * Rx(k ohm) * Cx (pico F)
    0.7 * 12 * 4700000
    = 39,480,000ns or about 40ms

    Debounce around the same length of the coil pulse probably makes sense. During the time of the coil is energized the ball should not be able to depress the switch because it will not physically fit in there to push the switch closed.

    #369 6 days ago

    One last question about the LISY pop bumper boards. I was using the picture on the LISY site as a reference.

    https://www.lisy.dev/pbdb.html

    The confusing part is the friction lock on the large 6 pin header. From my own original pop bumper boards and ones I’ve seen online it looks like the friction lock may be backwards on the LISY image of the board. Did the pop bumper driver boards come with friction locks the other way too? If so should we use headers without the lock and just use the key to make sure they are plugged in correctly and work in all games? For now I’m going to make them match my original connectors but wanted to see what everyone else is doing with them.

    #370 6 days ago

    On the pop bumper boards, I make the friction lock face the same direction as the original Gottlieb boards did.

    #371 6 days ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    From my own original pop bumper boards and ones I’ve seen online it looks like the friction lock may be backwards on the LISY image of the board.

    Good point! You are right in the picture I placed the friction on the wrong side.
    I will make a new version of the board, include the 'pin7 grounding' and make a new picture.

    If you have any other suggestions for the next board revision let ne know!

    #372 6 days ago
    Quoted from koji:

    Gottlieb displays in this case.. but I'll likely try both at some point.

    Just follow the order instructions for JLC preassembly on my side: https://www.lisy.dev/pcbs.html
    Watch carefully if all components are available and let me know if not, JLC does change internal library sometimes.

    Latest versions have very few components to add.
    For Gottlieb it is only the LED displays and to set a 3 pin-header with a jumper or solder a wire for fixed setting.
    For Bally some more headers, the molex connector and a 100uF radial capacitor is needed.

    NOTE: I got some feedback that with Bally Displays Version 1.0 together with a original Bally MPU sometimes
    there is a ghosting. I'm investigating on this. Tests with BallyFA, LISY and Stern MPU are alle successfull so far.

    #373 6 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    I got some feedback that with Bally Displays Version 1.0 together with a original Bally MPU sometimes
    there is a ghosting. I'm investigating on this.

    Ghosting can be an artifact due to a problem on the display blanking signal. Check if these users maybe have an open circuit on that signal from MPU board to the displays.

    #374 5 days ago

    I can reproduce it in my own Elektra. With my BallyFA MPU all works well, but with the original Bally MPU I have ghosting.

    One of the users has made a video of his Spectrum

    Interistingly the effect pops up only when 5 or more LED displays are connected, with 4 displays all is well!?

    You talk about open circuits, any specific hint/example where to look in specific?

    #375 5 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    Good point! You are right in the picture I placed the friction on the wrong side.
    I will make a new version of the board, include the 'pin7 grounding' and make a new picture.
    If you have any other suggestions for the next board revision let ne know!

    I can get pictures of the boards I just built if it helps. Instead of the jumper I scraped off the solder mask on the ground plain next to it and just made a solder bridge. Was easier for me and quick to do. Only other change was I added a .1 ceramic axial cap on the bottom on the power leads 1 and 20 of the PIC chip. I may be old fashioned but I like having a small cap across the power fir each IC.

    #376 5 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    You talk about open circuits, any specific hint/example where to look in specific?

    If the problem is happening when 5 displays are connected, it is possibly a loading issue on the blanking signal.
    If you disconnect the blanking signal at the MPU board with only 4 displays, do you get a similar ghosting effect?

    It's been a few years since I've played with this problem. Looking at the Bally Display Interrupt Service, I would expect the ghosting to be on the digit to the right, not left. It could be you have some other issue.

    #377 5 days ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    I may be old fashioned but I like having a small cap across the power fir each IC.

    Good point, usually I'm doing that too with all my boards, just forgot it this time.
    I have updated GoPOP80 to version 1.2 now, cap included.

    #378 4 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    Good point, usually I'm doing that too with all my boards, just forgot it this time.
    I have updated GoPOP80 to version 1.2 now, cap included.

    Your projects are awesome! Hope the feedback helps make them better. You mentioned the jumper was needed for PIC chips programmed in low voltage mode. With the jumper in place can PIC chips programmed in high voltage mode still be used with the jumper in place or would it need to be removed for those? Just wondering if there are advantages of chips programmed in high voltage mode vs high voltage.

    #379 4 days ago

    Still waiting on some LEDs to finish these. Board on right shows the extra 104 axial cap and you can see the solder bridge to the ground plane instead of the jumper in your picture.

    F4AA4952-EB20-4756-8330-5A2DC475DC38 (resized).jpeg

    #380 4 days ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    Board on right shows the extra 104 axial cap and you can see the solder bridge to the ground plane instead of the jumper in your picture.

    Agree it is easier to do it this way. Can I use your pictures on lisy.dev?

    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    With the jumper in place can PIC chips programmed in high voltage mode still be used with the jumper in place or would it need to be removed for those? Just wondering if there are advantages of chips programmed in high voltage mode vs high voltage.

    Its more or less a pull-down 'resistor', to give the pin a defined level. In LVP mode with this PIC over this pin the programmer does 'signaling'
    that he wants to programm the chip. With a floating input here sometimes the chip will go into programming mode after start.
    So it does not hurt with HVP mode to have him grounded

    With LVP mode you can programm the chips 'on board'. Thats what I'm doing with LISY. But you loose one input ( MCLR pin1 )
    which is used for programming too and need to look for these open inputs and two other pins (RB7&RB6) in your design.
    With HVP mode you can use all pins but need a special programmer.

    #381 4 days ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    If the problem is happening when 5 displays are connected, it is possibly a loading issue on the blanking signal.
    If you disconnect the blanking signal at the MPU board with only 4 displays, do you get a similar ghosting effect?

    I used my BallyFA with a version where I disabled the blanking in software. Same effect, so its definitly a blanking load problem.

    I have an 10K resistor to GND in seriell with a diode on each Display connected to the blanking signal.
    This is the extra load and looks like that some MPUs are not willing to drive that much.
    ( I build an easy OR gate with the resistor and the diode for the dimmer functionality)
    Will change it to a standard OR gate chip, making the 10K resistor obsolete.

    Thanks for the hint, will let you know if the design change worked.

    #382 4 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    Agree it is easier to do it this way. Can I use your pictures on lisy.dev?

    Yes, you can use it. If you'd like an updated picture once I install the LED's let me know and I'll be glad to take some others.

    Robert

    #383 4 days ago

    Just finished building the Bally display and after adding the solder bridge on pins 9 and 10jave that working. If you are thinking about any more updates I’d put in a feature request.

    In front of each display add the location:

    1-xxxxxxx 2:xxxxxxx
    3>xxxxxxx 4_xxxxxxx

    Just some examples that have different markers between the positions and value displayed. Whatever looks best could be used for all. It works well the way it is but adding the player positions and if it is a credit or Elektra unit display that would be a nice touch if it isn’t too difficult to add.

    #384 4 days ago

    bontango any good source for black hole sound files? ive built your sound hat and would like to use it. but all pinmame rooms have the .snd file but not converter can covert it and no media player will play it

    #385 4 days ago
    Quoted from hockeymutt:

    bontango any good source for black hole sound files? ive built your sound hat and would like to use it. but all pinmame rooms have the .snd file but not converter can covert it and no media player will play it

    This has been quite helpful for me:
    https://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=20128&p=184272

    Basically, there is a mode in pinmame to manually step through, and stream the sounds to wav.. still a bit of an arduous process, but better than the alternatives I found thus far

    #386 4 days ago
    Quoted from hockeymutt:

    but all pinmame rooms have the .snd file but not converter can covert it and no media player will play it

    Thats because these old rom images do not store the soundsthemself but only the instructions how to create them.

    I used the pinmame (on windows) method in the past as mentioned by koji, but I think a recording from an original board will create better results.
    Maybe anyone with a BH SB can give it a try?

    #387 4 days ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    Just finished building the Bally display and after adding the solder bridge on pins 9 and 10jave that working.

    can you explain in more detail, did you forgot something or is there something missing on the PCB?

    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    In front of each display add the location:

    1-xxxxxxx 2:xxxxxxx
    3>xxxxxxx 4_xxxxxxx

    Just some examples that have different markers between the positions and value displayed. Whatever looks best could be used for all. It works well the way it is but adding the player positions and if it is a credit or Elektra unit display that would be a nice touch if it isn’t too difficult to add.

    Not sure if I understood right, you mean marking the LEDs needed for credit and/or unit displays for the 6 digit variant?

    #388 3 days ago

    can you explain in more detail, did you forgot something or is there something missing on the PCB?

    Your board is fine. It was my fault missing a step. Didn't see the note about making a solder bridge across pins 9 and 10. Once I did that it worked!

    Not sure if I understood right, you mean marking the LEDs needed for credit and/or unit displays for the 6 digit variant?

    I probably didn't explain it very well. This is in regard to the smaller 20x4 LCD display project for bench testing. I had a unit that I could display one at a time and this is a much nicer version and showing all the displays at once will help a lot with testing on the bench.

    What I was referring to is the layout of the displays on the LCD. Just adding something to show which display is for each player. Since there are 20 characters per line that leaves 10 characters per display.

    6-digit

    1-xxxxxx 2-xxxxxx
    3-xxxxxx 4-xxxxxx

    1:xxxxxx 2:xxxxxx
    3:xxxxxx 4:xxxxxx

    1>xxxxx 2>xxxxx
    3>xxxxx 4>xxxxx

    7-digit

    1-xxxxxxx 2-xxxxxxx
    3-xxxxxxx 4-xxxxxxx

    1:xxxxxxx 2:xxxxxxx
    3:xxxxxxx 4:xxxxxxx

    1>xxxxxxx 2>xxxxxxx
    3>xxxxxxx 4>xxxxxxx

    6 Million dollar many could just use the 3rd line.

    Things like Credit or Elektra display could be on the last line:

    C-xxxxxx E-xxxxxx

    I'm totally fine with the way it is but since there is room on the LCD thought it may look good with the extra labels for the display. Maybe at least for the known games supported.

    #389 3 days ago

    [EDIT]. Please disregard. I had a setting mixed up . Thank you.. back on track.. [/EDIT]

    Anybody mind giving me some advice on this LIST-35 for Stern Ali?

    Happy with rules, but really want to try to modify a few of the sounds, particularly the beep at the ball start and drain with a proper bell.. would be awesome.

    Anyway, it seems to boot the rom, and the attract mode seems correct, however the free play doesn't work. and when I put a credit in a start it, the game is very slow and just seems to engage the top kickout holes, resets a drop bank, flickers the GI and then does it again on loop.. no ball kickout or anything.

    Any ideas? Do I need to adjust all of the configs for this game?

    Here is a video of the boot sequence and issue in game.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/h27Q6JJoQ2ywsgRC6

    Thanks for your time-

    #391 2 days ago

    If there are going to be future revisions of the LISY35 and LISY80 boards would it be possible to add a few larger pads for test points? At least ground, 5V, and on the Bally the additional voltage. Then something like thse could be used:

    https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/keystone-electronics/5006/255330

    They can be totally optional but if you have pad there for them then the people that would like the test points can populate them. Just a suggestion.

    #392 2 days ago

    Hi All, wondering if anyone who has managed to get LISY working on a early stern could give me a hand?

    I have things sort of working. The issues now are:

    Machine seems slow (i.e., delays on kick outs etc), I presume I just need to update the clock cycle in the config until it feels right? or are there some numbers others have found that work well?

    I have the audio "Welcome to Lisy", but that is it. no other sound seems to work.. but this may not be surprising, as I just leveraged one of the other sound configs. I've no idea what audio offsets to use for this game: Stern "Ali". In pinmame, I tried to find the audio (figuring this would give me the offset as well), however, I spent 20 minutes stepping through all sorts of possibilities (starting from 0000000000).. but not hearing anything.. anyone have any ideas what sort of value one would use for a old Stern like this?

    Also, freeplay does not seem to work.. (Presume you hold the start coin door button down for 2 seconds.). Wondering if this is a known issue?

    Thank you for your time-

    #393 2 days ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    What I was referring to is the layout of the displays on the LCD. Just adding something to show which display is for each player. Since there are 20 characters per line that leaves 10 characters per display.

    ah, you was talking about the LCD display, where I was talking about the bally LED displays, OK,
    good suggestion, I put it on my 'list'

    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    If there are going to be future revisions of the LISY35 and LISY80 boards would it be possible to add a few larger pads for test points? At least ground, 5V, and on the Bally the additional voltage. Then something like thse could be used:

    can hzave a look, but can you check the link? I get a 404 Error

    #394 2 days ago

    NEWS ABOUT THE BALLY DISPLAYS
    we did some further testing and it looks like with changing the R15 10K resistor to a 22K the ghosting is vanished.
    I have updated the BOM accordingly. In case you already ordered your PCBs see below what you need to change

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #395 2 days ago
    Quoted from koji:

    I have things sort of working. The issues now are:

    Machine seems slow (i.e., delays on kick outs etc), I presume I just need to update the clock cycle in the config until it feels right? or are there some numbers others have found that work well?

    I have the audio "Welcome to Lisy", but that is it. no other sound seems to work.. but this may not be surprising, as I just leveraged one of the other sound configs. I've no idea what audio offsets to use for this game: Stern "Ali". In pinmame, I tried to find the audio (figuring this would give me the offset as well), however, I spent 20 minutes stepping through all sorts of possibilities (starting from 0000000000).. but not hearing anything.. anyone have any ideas what sort of value one would use for a old Stern like this?

    Also, freeplay does not seem to work.. (Presume you hold the start coin door button down for 2 seconds.). Wondering if this is a known issue?

    Looks like not many people do using LISY35 with Stern games, there might be still bugs.
    So any feedback from other Stern users would be helpfull!
    I will look into the performance problem, don't think that it is only a problem of the clock cycle (throttle) value.

    For the freeplay option, it needs to be activated by S1, did you do that?

    #396 2 days ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    Looks like not many people do using LISY35 with Stern games, there might be still bugs.
    So any feedback from other Stern users would be helpfull!
    I will look into the performance problem, don't think that it is only a problem of the clock cycle (throttle) value.
    For the freeplay option, it needs to be activated by S1, did you do that?

    Thank you.

    Yes, the first switch on S1, triple checked that.. it just doesn't seem to work.. although I can add credits the old fashioned way and start the game.

    Yes, I noted the same slow behaviour on my Cheetah pinball, so perhaps an issue with M-200?
    woz (Any chance you could test with your Meteor?)

    I also cannot for the life of me get any audio out of pinmame, so I am wondering if the sound is addressed in some other manner? clearly the games emulate and play the sounds properly in pinmame when playing or starting the game, they just don't come up in the "Sound Command Mode" like other titles seem to.. perhaps that is part of the sound trouble I'm having.

    Thank you-

    #397 1 day ago
    Quoted from bontango:

    ah, you was talking about the LCD display, where I was talking about the bally LED displays, OK,
    good suggestion, I put it on my 'list'

    can hzave a look, but can you check the link? I get a 404 Error

    Here is the datasheet on mouser:

    https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/215/005-5009-743680.pdf

    #398 1 day ago

    For anyone using bally 7 digit displays on a 6 digit game how does the 7 digit display look in the match/credit window on the backglass? do you just jumper the display to 6 digit mode?

    #399 1 day ago
    Quoted from noopy:

    For anyone using bally 7 digit displays on a 6 digit game how does the 7 digit display look in the match/credit window on the backglass? do you just jumper the display to 6 digit mode?

    You need one of my 6digit LED displays for the match/credit window, the position of the digit of the 7digit display will not fit.

    #400 20 hours ago

    bontango thanks again for all this work! How’s the sound board coming along mine just took dump!

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