Anyone have an extra BallyFA SMD they'd like to sell?

Hi there, in the past, there was an issue with performance and slow processing. I am not sure if that has been addressed yet:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-lisy-a-replacement-mpu-for-gottlieb-bally-amp-stern/page/9#post-6155256

The sounds are technically there, as with pinmame, but I am not sure if the -35 handles them well etc.

I do not think you can use the integrated sound card, as the lisy-35 does not support the top stern audio extra header pins? that was the case for my tests back when I looked into it anyway?

Thanks-

If it doesn’t I still have an extremely clean original Flight 2000 board as well as one of the Speech boards.

Just wanted to say that I had two machines (Bally KISS and Paragon) at MGC this past weekend. They were both running BallyFA boards, and they both ran perfectly, from what I’m told. I didn’t get a single complaint, and almost every time I checked them out, they were being played.
Nice work bontango !

Grangeomatic

I played your pins at MGC....Kiss was a standout for me(sounds were excellent! )
Paragon was also solid...thanks for bringing them.
my first MGC...will be back...great show!

Crap, I know I said I’d get pics, but I didn’t only bring these two games, I brought 6 others for a total of 8. Let’s just say it was more work than I had planned for...
And as such, I forgot to take any pics of my games. Sorry.
There are lots of general pics in the official unofficial MGC thread.

Lisy1 running in sinbad. I'll probably keep this board as a test board and sell the machine with the niwumpf it came with. I like the idea of having a known good board especially with the wifi features2021-11-15 15.07.40 (resized).jpg

The LISY1 is a great board. I have one that I built from a blank PCB that I got from Ken Layton before he passed. Sent him a thank you that I hope he got to read.

LISY1 was a great help in trouble shooting. Confirmed that the displays and wiring were all ok in my Buck Rogers. Found an issue with a bad spider chip on the original MPU. Cheddar was awesome and hooked me up with a parts System 1 board that I was able to harvest a display spider chip from. Fixed my original MPU so game running all original boards. Still have the LISY1 board to help test other games.

Was getting ready to order some Lisy1SMDs, now I'll wait and order some Lisy80SMDs too

This work for Sys1 as well? Also the 3.3 5pin is OOS as well, can you recommend a substitute?

Ordered 5 Lisy1SMD and 5 Lisy80SMD. The sub on the 47k SIP-9 is available but anything resembling the 3.3k SIP-5 is not so I'll have to add those myself on the Lisy1.

I have an unpopulated Lisy1 board I'm never going to get to. Anybody want it for the cost of shipping?

I'll get you some pics of the 80SMD in action when they come in

I'm about to ship out v 1.0 Bally 6 digit displays to a friend, and any last minute edits or bug fixes to work out before I send them on their way?

Key pin is correct?

Resistors are correct?

Caps are correct?

TIA!

If you don’t get anyone else with a pressing need I could use it. Have a friend with a completely roaches set of boards and could use it to build him an MPU.

It's yours. PM me address and I'll get you a shipping quote

Not sure which board it is an issue for but I assume the S80SMD:

As shown below, seems the packages of the parts ( C11-C18) cannot match the corresponding holes on the PCB board, the lead space is 2.54mm, while the distance between holes is 5.2mm on the PCB, so we are unable to assemble them.

This is for the 100nf Cap

bontango PM me an address and I'll forward you the email

I paid for the parts so as long as the ship them with the boards I will form the leads and make them work

The only other issues found was they we unsure of the orientation of the dip switches on both boards. I'll forward you all the correspondence.

I'm kind of shocked how quickly they are moving

Edit: found clockscale in the manual I'll try that.

Strange thing happening on Sinbad. When I start a game the tune plays at double speed. And the chimes don't ring.

Any advice?

Interesting results. Reducing clock speed had made the chimes sound better. No adjustments have made the start game jingle slow down though.

I'll try to get it on video

UPDATE: I can dial the chime tone in pretty well with clockscale. Nothing I have done affects the start jingle. I even tried turning it off using the dip switches in LisyControl but it's still there.

It would be cool if there were a way to update this file via LisyControl

Q: I assembled 5 v1.0 6 digit displays, all work individually, but when more than three are connected, the game won't start. When all five are connected, displays flicker and game won't boot.

I can be pretty certain that the connectors are good, both to the displays and to the MPU.

Old plasma displays work, all five (one is gassing out, which is the reason for the replacement).

It seems as though the game's not getting enough 5V to boot...? Could that be?

Ok thanks for the reply. I'll report back.

One thing that may be different is the game (Bally Eight Ball) has a Nvram.Weebly MPU board. Otherwise the game is fully operational, just the problem with more than three 6 digit displays in it.

I'm going to take a stab at building the GODI180 universal Gottlieb display. Anyone other than OP put one of these together.

I'll have several extra boards if someone wants one

My guess is the 5v regulator is overloaded, I have seen it before with LED displays causing a non boot situation. The 5v drags down below the MPU reset monitor trip point (4.4 or 4.6v depending on mpu version). LEDs displays are adding more 5v load. There are a ton of bad voltage regulators out there in the grey market than can only handle about 1amp yet they mark them as a 3amp part. There is at least one replacement driver board using linear regulator and smallish heat sink that gets smoking hot in a normal operation with plasma displays, add the up to extra 210 LEDs and you might get to the thermal / overload shutdown point.

See if your 5v lowers with every display you add. Keep in mind there are isolated ground returns... the orange 12v wire return that always burns, and just connectors in general (v drop across plugs).

One thing I didn't realize, and had the guy do, was to pull F2 on the rectifier board. Now he's running four displays but haven't heard back which display wasn't working, or try to rule out bad connectors to the displays. I did rebuild the SDB, full parts replacement including 5V regulator.

I did redo all the connectors to all of the boards ...... drumroll please.... EXCEPT to the displays. Aaaaauuuuugggghhhhh!!!!

So I'm not sure if that's it or not, but all five displays were working prior to LED swap.

Will post back, and redo SDB if needed or get a replacement.

It is probably not the connector on the displays themselves, but the male pins solder joints are frequently cracked. The top right plug on the driver board and the 20 pin plug on the rectifier board most critical ones for the 5v.

Where did you buy the regulator? Most on eBay, AliExpress and etc are fake. Pretty sure they take a 1a die from a weenie SOT23 part or something, put it in the TO3 metal can case and mark it as a 3a or 5a part (LM323K). The fakes will work fine in most games as a replacement MPU only pulls like 0.25a without other boards attached.

a picture cactusjack posted comparing real vs fake.

pasted_image (resized).png

I couldn't say for sure where I got the regulator, but can confirm with three LED boards, F2 on rectifier board removed, the game is perfectly playable.

I did thoroughly replace all connectors in the backbox, and all connectors on all boards. Put key pins in all appropriate spots in connectors, new pins in all connectors (as well as housings). It's possible I screwed up a crimp but I didn't detect it when I was doing it.

God, I hate repinning .100 connectors!

The entire game was a salt water/air corroded mess. Took me a few months and totally undercharged for it, but came out well.

Connecting the fourth LED display and game will not boot.

I'm going to have the owner send me the SDB board back, crack that regulator open and post pics.

Having the owner buy a new SDB (no hi-volt) from your site.

Thanks for the help!

Can confirm that v 1.0 6 digit display boards do work well and look good.

Post a picture of the regulator so we can see if it has the telltale counterfeit markings.

Owner is about 3 hours away from me, I'll ask him to send the board back to me and I'll cut it up and send pics.

For now, this is all I have...

IMG_1020 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201110_011154627 (resized).jpg

Your solenoid driver board looks familiar
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-22-solenoid-driver-negaive-dc-voltage#post-5834765

That regulator looks suspiciously like this fake:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/6821-pias-from-china#post-4279650

I vaguely remember that post. God I was embarassed

But yeah, if I posted that then it had to be from the that source.

I will be surprised if the part wasn't a fake.

Needing a replacement sound board for a Buck Rogers and another for Counterforce.

Anyone out there have Gosof sound boards for sale?

TIA

Hello All:

Anyone have a Lisy80? I picked up a Black Hole and need a board for it. I can take either a blank board (or 2) or a completed board. Let me know what and how much. If I cant get one this way, what is my best route for some boards? Last time I got my boards blank for my LISY35 but I see some of the newer configs have a large portion of the components already installed.
Thanks
Mike

I'll have several coming in the next week. I'll PM you

Great!! Let me know. Will it be pre-populated? Or should I order parts to be ready?
Mike

I ordered the smd version populated but you will need some parts