Quoted from barakandl:
It is probably not the connector on the displays themselves, but the male pins solder joints are frequently cracked. The top right plug on the driver board and the 20 pin plug on the rectifier board most critical ones for the 5v.
Where did you buy the regulator? Most on eBay, AliExpress and etc are fake. Pretty sure they take a 1a die from a weenie SOT23 part or something, put it in the TO3 metal can case and mark it as a 3a or 5a part (LM323K). The fakes will work fine in most games as a replacement MPU only pulls like 0.25a without other boards attached.
a picture cactusjack posted comparing real vs fake.[quoted image]
I couldn't say for sure where I got the regulator, but can confirm with three LED boards, F2 on rectifier board removed, the game is perfectly playable.
I did thoroughly replace all connectors in the backbox, and all connectors on all boards. Put key pins in all appropriate spots in connectors, new pins in all connectors (as well as housings). It's possible I screwed up a crimp but I didn't detect it when I was doing it.
God, I hate repinning .100 connectors!
The entire game was a salt water/air corroded mess. Took me a few months and totally undercharged for it, but came out well.
Connecting the fourth LED display and game will not boot.
I'm going to have the owner send me the SDB board back, crack that regulator open and post pics.
Having the owner buy a new SDB (no hi-volt) from your site.
Thanks for the help!
Can confirm that v 1.0 6 digit display boards do work well and look good.