Hello,
I too have owned a ICB. I sold it and regret it. If you make a flat kit i would be in. I would be more into a full sized unit. But the idea of simular game play bot each level swapping between one or two holes would add some nice complexity.
I do own a skill roll. It uses a single basket on the back to catch the nickle, works well. Also i beleive to simplify it build one could have the rod completely controlled independent. AKA a light come on that says return rod to bottom for next ball. No control byt the rPi .
When i repaired mine, i used screen window rubber. where they attach to the rod i lapped them side by side and used the clamp to hold both sides. I had no issued for the years i had it setup.
FortyTwo

The rods don't have any taper. Just a fit between them both. THey are roughly just shorter than the length of the machine. since they have stoppers on them I never really noticed a bump between rods. Of course their pay load is light so the thinner the outside tube the better.

Don't over think this. It's not a precision machine expensive linear bearings are not nessassary. A nylon chunk with a hole would be more than enough. It's not fast moving to require a bearing.

I'm in the same boat. I haven't had a chance to read two pages of posts to catch up. I will though. Love the idea. I would also state the cabinet construction of the original ICB was crap material. A flat pack would be better than the original. I think the general beer references work well (sound pack). And one could get custom wraps made for playfeild or cab to suit favorite brand.

Once a plan is made many people can get into sourcing the parts decals sound packages. Would be a fun group project. I did just build a house and remember 500 her and 500 the add up. So let's not go Cadillac on every part if not needed.
My .03. (Like the inflation)
FortyTwo

The game was fun and hard enough with just the 10 holes. I'm still n for two or three per level that randomly changes each time.
So a max of 30 lights and switch.
In respect to optos for the boards. Someone should ask Hans at Starcraft. He was saying to get pre made custom boards was pretty cheap. The smaller the better. Like a horseshoe.
Fortytwo

I just had a brain storm concerning the lit holes and using plexi tubes to conduct light.
One could make the tubes longer, maybe a half inch. Then drill two holes in the tail across from each other. We could then glue in or push in the LED shape ir opto set. The style sega used in their trough. Either a tight fit or a dab of glue will hold it.
A jig could be made for a mill or drill press to bore the holes correctly.
Even a third hole on top for the LED.

Then we glue them into the board, sand the who,e thing, apply vynal overlay that could slightly cover the gap lines like key lines.

And the pcb if your going through the trouble should also hold the light.

I know the clear tube is a cool idea but what about a foil or reflective paint on the hole and a bright led shooting down from the top.
Would make assembly and cost easier. Of course blinking would help to see it.

Second displays are cheap for RPI plus there are a lot of resources for them. I'm game for that as controller. Where will the display go? In the playfeild like the original? I say in the flat pack leave a small hole and let the user source and cut to fit what they can get avalible.

It would be behind the glass so a touch would be pointless. Unless its users for service mode and tests.

Hello, just caught up after a long weekend. Wow a lot of good progress. One question abut the cost so far. I see you had $200 plus in electronics. Is the stillness a flatpack of wood planned? Any idea of cost? Who would be making these and would pickup or delivery to a show happen? Lastly may I ask they have the groove for t mounding be pre cut.

I like the direction, I think cost in all components should be kept in mind. Can't wait to see progress.
FortyTwo

Ahh yes to clarify, it pops in and back out below the bar. I'm up for a spring loaded plunger behind the coin door. Open it up pull plunger down and release. Leave some code for "ball search" that will display ball missing. And pulse an input for those who want to add a mechanical way. Then give a ball search timeout either in cycles or time for the service menu.
Just an idea. For the record I'm not too concerned about cost, just saying it can get away. And I like the idea of links for all the parts and we get them as needed. I think your close enough I could make a road trip to pick up a cnc flat pack. Would make th build go a lot quicker.

That way the tubes can be installed and the entire playfeild can be sanded flat together. Like a pinball

Cutting and shaping shouldn't be an issue for me. I have a mill I have been wanting to learn to use and a lathe. Depending on complexity. I may be able to make plastic parts. For myself im planning on using nylon to make the end block. I basically need the wood and program and electronics list.

I second the step in the rod not being a huge deal. It may also look large because of the scale not being defined. Could a game owner and winteriscoming both take a picture with a quarter behind it?

Just catching up. My fear with using nylon tbing is glue. I know of all the plastics, nylon is relatively unglueable. I don't recnize the toe you mentioned though.

I second Not letting the glass size restrict us. Tempered glass is reasonable from a glass store not a box store.

Just played ICB at a arcade a couple days ago. Yes the playfeild is at a slight angle back, not vertical.
One playfeild demons ions and hole pattern gets nailed down maybe a few can be made for us to help prototyping the mech.
I like the idea of a two pice cabinet like a dart board.
P.S. I have a 1958 Bridgeport I'm learning to use and a 1930s lathe. Not a machinist but always wanted to learn these tools.