#viper-night-drivin Attack from Mars Revenge From Mars

Shoutout to Rich from Aussie Arcade for helping me out!

If you are looking for a DIY solution to missing figurines in your game or you are trying to make cooler glow in the dark aftermarket ones , hopefully I can show you how to make your own and answer any questions for process.

Viper Night Drivin' pin features 2 silicone raccoons that more often or not are missing or destroyed but there are no replacements to be found online. Using the one raccoon I had in my machine, I was able to duplicate the original and make it even nicer with UV pigment causing it to really glow nice under the games black lights.

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Materials needed included in pictures :

Alginate for making mold
Plastic container for mold
Scale or measuring cup for measuring alginate
Mixing cup / mixing bucket
2 Part Silicone mixture
Silicone coloring or colored UV powder

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There are other guides online how to mix alginate for your mould. Its just mixing the powder with water and then quickly placing the original into the mix until it hardens. I suspended mine on a little metal hook to prevent it from sinking to the bottom. Once it hardens after 3-5 minutes you can cut the mold in half to pull the original out. Sometimes the extremities are a little hard to get out but a little wiggling will do the job.

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I like to fill in rubber over the top of the mould as well because alginate will immediately start drying out and protruding water making the mould smaller and smaller. You can usually only use the mould 1-2 times before it is shrunken and misshaped.

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When you wait 12 hours for rubber to cure you can open the mould and cut the figure out and get excess rubber around edges off.

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Careful to use correct paint when painting Silicone. Average paint will rub off very easily and leave an ugly mess. The Liquitex acrylic mediums primer made it so I can paint silicone without and rubbing off.

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You should be able to create any color rubber creation you can think of following these steps.

Thanks and good luck. Feel free to leave any questions or comments.

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The more UV pigment you add, the more rigid the rubber becomes. The versions I created with only the dye coloring are more stretchy but both seem quite durable.

The chosen blue.

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Notice the difference between the green and blue ones. The blue was made with just enough silicone and when it settled in the mold it ended up not being enough. Use more than you have to, its easier to cut off excess than to add something out of nothing. Always point your figure downward when making the mold so if there is any silicone missing, it is in the back where it won't be seen in gameplay.

I am using these molds for a 3rd time, first time I have been able to do it. The have shrunk a little bit but I have poured new copies basically every 12 hours so it has only been about 36 hours. In bottom picture you can see I needed some wedges to keep mold closer together. I expect slight disformities this time around but I wanted to test Tie-Dye and I still needed a good purple.

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Make sure to pour slowly into the extremities to fill void completely without air pockets!

The Rabies Bunch

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One of my moulds shrunk and deformed more than the other. My Newest purple raccoons paws are all sort of out of whack, will have to throw them away and make new ones. Tie-dye test came out pretty well tho,

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You can hide the UV pigment in colors as well. This gray figure has a ton of uv pigment in it and glows hard when hit with black light and continues to glow for a short while after the light is off as well.

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