(Topic ID: 67366)

DMD Extender Discussion (ColorDMD Alternative)


By Crash

7 years ago



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  • 730 posts
  • 117 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by PohodaVole
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There are 730 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 15.
#451 5 years ago

For anyone wanting clarification on how to connect a Sega 192x64 system together. Make sure you have everything you need before you begin building your kit:

17.3" LCD display panel
DMD Extender board
DMD Extender power cable, Z connector, ribbon cable, and SD card (all included)
Raspberry Pi board model A or B
1 ft HDMI cable
HDMI to DVI adapter plug (pictured but may not be needed, details to follow)
LCD controller board
12v (4a or higher) power supply

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Connect the small 14 pin connector on the DMD driver board to the DMD Extender's "DMD IN" socket using the supplied ribbon cable. Be sure the red stripe is on the side marked pin 1 on the DMD driver board and on the left side when plugged in to the extender. With the game off, plug in the power connector on the DMD driver board.

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Turn the Raspberry Pi board upside down and carefully insert the GPIO header on the board into the corresponding socket on the DMD Extender board. Connect the included power cable to the "POWER IN" plug on the Extender board. Unplug CN2 on the sound board and connect the other end of this cable in its place. Connect the Z connector to the center plug on the power cable, and connect the plug that was originally attached to CN2 to the opposite end of the Z connector. Insert the SD card into the Raspberry Pi's SD card slot, and connect one end the HDMI cable to the Pi's HDMI out connection.

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Connect the other end of the HDMI cable to the LCD controller board's HDMI input. If the model you received does not have an HDMI input, use the pictured female HDMI to male DVI adapter plug to connect to your controller board's DVI input. The remote board and LVDS harness will already be connected to the controller. Attach the flat LVDS connector to the display's socket on the bottom. I would suggest taping down the black sleeve protruding from the contacts like shown to prevent it from wiggling loose during installation. Finally, attach the 12v power supply's DC plug to the controller board's power input connection.

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Plug in the power supply, turn on the game, and the DMD Extender logo will display briefly on the screen followed by the game's DMD image.

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In this case the display panel I received was unfortunately damaged by (guess who) USPS, and I did not have access to a PC to configure the SD card for "large Sega" mode. Other than those two differences you will get a good starting picture, and from there you can insert the SD card into your PC and use the included utility program to customize the image, as well as make further geometry and position adjustments using the LCD controller's included remote board.

This, in a nutshell, covers everything on the electronics/connection side of things. If you want a full guide on how to assemble these parts together properly, check the below links.

http://www.drpinball.co.uk/docs/DMD%20Extender%20DE%20v0.5.1.pdf

http://www.drpinball.co.uk/docs/ApplicationNote1.pdf

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colorized-dmd-with-dmd-extender-diy

#452 5 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

PinRob asked an important question in the Baywatch club thread so I will share my response here.

Ask him for an original Extender board that has the old GPIO port. I think he is still testing the new model with updated port. Keep in mind the original board will not work with the new Raspberry Pi plus models. Someone is selling a batch of original Model A's that will work until the new Extender board is finished.
ebay.com link

So if we have this one we can buy and old version?

amazon.com link »

#453 5 years ago

Yep a model B will work. But don't pay $45 for it. They can be had much cheaper (as I listed on the previous page).

#454 5 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Yep a model B will work. But don't pay $45 for it. They can be had much cheaper (as I listed on the previous page).

Already have one but had been trying to get the extender and he said he was out. I will ask for an old one. My dad has a Batman Forever and all we are waiting on is the extender.

#455 5 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Which connector are you referring to on the board?

Power plug for the lcd. Need to know the size.

#456 5 years ago

Ah, that. Actually I'm not sure. Looks like a standard 5.5mm OD 2.5mm ID plug. I honestly didn't even consider that when ordering the power supplies and just got lucky that it fits. I will try and look when I get a chance.

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#457 5 years ago

Looks like he is out of stock on the old model extenders as well. At least that is what the last email I got from him says.

#458 5 years ago

Bummer. Did he give an estimate on when the new model will be available?

#459 5 years ago

No, he just said the board maker was being slow with the new design and he didn't know.

#460 5 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

No, he just said the board maker was being slow with the new design and he didn't know.

The date keeps getting pushed back. He is working on it, but hard telling. Big reason I finally opted to go the smart dmd route.

Quoted from Crash:Ah, that. Actually I'm not sure. Looks like a standard 5.5mm OD 2.5mm ID plug. I honestly didn't even consider that when ordering the power supplies and just got lucky that it fits. I will try and look when I get a chance.

Thanks, trying to build a wiring harness just like the dmd extender and that is the last piece of the puzzle.

#461 5 years ago

I didn't use a separate power supply. I used the kit from DR Pinball. Works fine.

#462 5 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Uugh. Seriously?? When it rains it pours.

image.jpg 2.2 MB

When it gas's it pours...

#463 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballTiger225:

I didn't use a separate power supply. I used the kit from DR Pinball. Works fine.

He is talking about the DC power connector for the LCD controller board. The Extender does not come with a connector for that, plus the board draws about 3 amps on its own thus it needs an external brick.

#464 5 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

He is talking about the DC power connector for the LCD controller board. The Extender does not come with a connector for that, plus the board draws about 3 amps on its own thus it needs an external brick.

Did not realize that. Pity as I'd prefer a cleaner installation.

#465 5 years ago

I believe he does sell a full kit though for around $350. Includes board, display, controller, Pi, and hookups. Of course since the Extender is currently out of stock that is no longer an option. It's just more cost effective for a lot of people to do it themselves.

#466 5 years ago

I am just hoping he gets them in soon. My dad is restoring the Batman Forever (CC'd playfield, the works) for the Texas Pinball Festival at the end of March. The DMD extender is the only thing we are waiting on at this point.

#467 5 years ago

From his site:

"To support you with these projects Dr Pinball can supply...
•DMD Extender - comes with interface board, all necessary cables and software
•LCD Install Kit - cable and mounting kit for replacing your plasma screen."

I think the kit was an extra $10

I have no brick in mine.

#468 5 years ago

I have 2 DMDextender systems I'll be selling as i upgraded the machines to colordmd.

Old style with raspberry pi model a.

#469 5 years ago
Quoted from nerbflong:

I have 2 DMDextender systems I'll be selling as i upgraded the machines to colordmd.
Old style with raspberry pi model a.

I'm interested

#470 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballTiger225:

From his site:
"To support you with these projects Dr Pinball can supply...
•DMD Extender - comes with interface board, all necessary cables and software
•LCD Install Kit - cable and mounting kit for replacing your plasma screen."
I think the kit was an extra $10
I have no brick in mine.

How did you get 12v to the controller board if you're not using a brick?

#471 5 years ago
Quoted from nerbflong:

I have 2 DMDextender systems I'll be selling as i upgraded the machines to colordmd.
Old style with raspberry pi model a.

PM sent.

#472 5 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

How did you get 12v to the controller board if you're not using a brick?

Not sure, but this video doesn't show a brick either.

#473 5 years ago

Followed this guide:

http://www.drpinball.co.uk/docs/ApplicationNote1.pdf

I did see this note on page two:

Please note that the 12V supply in DE / Sega games is normally acceptable to drive a display panel and
display controller. However for other manufacturers e.g. Stern / Bally / Williams etc, the 12V supply
may not be suitable and may damage your system – a 12V regulator is required in these situations,
which can be supplied by Dr Pinball.

Maybe this is the difference since I did a Maverick?

#474 5 years ago

Ok, I get it now. I noticed he is using the blank IDC connector included in the kit and he took a 2.5mm barrel plug and crimped the wires onto it, then connected it to the power out plug on the Extender board. That essentially takes the 12v power from the sound board connection. I initially thought that output connector was to be used for a second DMD, I now see why it can't as the board does not accept high voltage as an input, and the connector size is wrong. The main reason we use bricks is because Williams games aren't proven to have a robust enough 12v supply, and they are typically run 24/7 on location so that takes some stress off the game boards.

However, for a home environment I can see how this setup can get a bit cluttered.

#475 5 years ago

Question... what top and bottom vertical border values are you guys using in the software for your Sega conversions? I can dial down the horizontal image size just fine but the software will not allow me to go below -99 in the vertical border fields. It's close to filling the screen vertically but not quite. I also tried -150, -200, -300 by editing the config file manually in Notepad but there was no change beyond what I see with -99. The GUI limits the text input to 3 characters.

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1 week later
#476 5 years ago

Resolved! Decided to use the DVI input instead of HDMI. This for some reason bumps the resolution down from 1920x1080 to 1400x900 and stretches the image out further.

#477 5 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Resolved! Decided to use the DVI input instead of HDMI. This for some reason bumps the resolution down from 1920x1080 to 1400x900 and stretches the image out further.

Hmmm... was just working on something similar last night and boy was I swearing. I have gotten two out of three screens "bordered" correctly with little thought. The one last night was an absolute stinker and I ended up giving up.

Will try this later...

#478 5 years ago

Does anybody have the dimensions for a mounting panel for a Sega Batman Forever. I saw a document at one point that had a detailed diagram with measurements, but I can't seem to find it right now. My brother has a CNC machine and I was going to have him cut one out of acrylic.

It is this diagram he talks about here, but I must be dense because I can't seem to find it on the DR. Pinball site.

#479 5 years ago

There are measurements in David's application note, was that it?

http://www.drpinball.co.uk/docs/ApplicationNote1.pdf

#480 5 years ago

Application Note 1 is the way to go!

#481 5 years ago

If you're selling a DMD Extender kit I am interested in buying it. Friggin' plasmas keep going out on us.

#482 5 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

There are measurements in David's application note, was that it?
http://www.drpinball.co.uk/docs/ApplicationNote1.pdf

Yep that is it, thanks! I was looking in the wrong spot.

#483 5 years ago

Something to keep in mind, do not copy files from one SD card to another. I did this thinking I could get another game working with the same palette and ended up getting a security key error. If you run into a snag with this error code displayed at the top of the screen you will need to contact Dr. Pinball and he will be happy to get you sorted out. Thanks for the good customer service!

Pics of the large Sega kit below. We used 3/8" rubber grommets between the existing spacers to lift the backing plate up off the speaker panel as the LCD panel is much thinner than the original plasma DMD assembly. We affixed the display using Velcro in case it ever needs replacing.

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#484 5 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Something to keep in mind, do not copy files from one SD card to another. I did this thinking I could get another game working with the same palette and ended up getting a security key error. If you run into a snag with this error code displayed at the top of the screen you will need to contact Dr. Pinball and he will be happy to get you sorted out. Thanks for the good customer service!
Pics of the large Sega kit below. We used 3/8" rubber grommets between the existing spacers to lift the backing plate up off the speaker panel as the LCD panel is much thinner than the original plasma DMD assembly. We affixed the display using Velcro in case it ever needs replacing.

What did you have to do to get it to work after the error? New SD card?

#485 5 years ago

Just finished installing one of these in our X-Files yesterday. Talk about a lot of work? No removable speaker panel for that one.

Ended up taking the door off, striping it down, and cutting a 1\2" slot in the shelf so the LCD fit tight against the little plastic DMD bezel.

Sounds way easier than it was of course. The hardest part was coming up with a jig for the rounded face of the door since there was also a 5\8" lip there.

I'll be sure to post a couple pictures. This game really shines with 4 colors IMHO. My son and I worked for a couple hours a few weeks ago to dial them in and once we saw them on the actual game it made all the work worth it!

#486 5 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

What did you have to do to get it to work after the error? New SD card?

I don't want to explain his methods out of common courtesy, but a new SD card was not needed.

Quoted from JeffF:

Just finished installing one of these in our X-Files yesterday. Talk about a lot of work? No removable speaker panel for that one.
Ended up taking the door off, striping it down, and cutting a 1\2" slot in the shelf so the LCD fit tight against the little plastic DMD bezel.
Sounds way easier than it was of course. The hardest part was coming up with a jig for the rounded face of the door since there was also a 5\8" lip there.
I'll be sure to post a couple pictures. This game really shines with 4 colors IMHO. My son and I worked for a couple hours a few weeks ago to dial them in and once we saw them on the actual game it made all the work worth it!

Holy crap I think you might be the first one on planet earth to actually pull this off.

#487 5 years ago

The pictures didn't capture the colors correctly but they are close.

dscf4428.jpg

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dscf4434.jpg

And here's some pictures of the install...

dscf4403.jpg

dscf4405.jpg

dscf4408.jpg

dscf4411.jpg

dscf4413.jpg

All the work was well, well worth it. No matter what "some" people say about X-Files...

dscf4389.jpg

#488 5 years ago

Man that x-files looks amazing. How much work was it to color?

#489 5 years ago
Quoted from anubis2night:

Man that X-files looks amazing. How much work was it to color?

Probably 5-10 minutes.

#490 5 years ago

Thanks!

With the DMD Extender you only choose 4 colors to replace the shading they used for the original DMD. My son and I just tried coming up with 4 colors that looked good for most of the animations. And actually it's only three colors because you usually choose black for the 4th color.

#491 5 years ago
Quoted from JeffF:

The pictures didn't capture the colors correctly but they are close.
dscf4428.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
dscf4420.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
dscf4426.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
dscf4429.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
dscf4434.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
And here's some pictures of the install...
dscf4403.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
dscf4405.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
dscf4408.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
dscf4411.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
dscf4413.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
All the work was well, well worth it. No matter what "some" people say about X-files...
dscf4389.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Awesome! Thanks for the being the first (that I've seen) to try it! I'll be doing just that for Starship Troopers at some point. The same color scheme would probably look good in SST.

I can imagine that removing the front would be the way to go since you'd get sawdust all over the game otherwise. What did you cut yours with? I've got a small trim router I might try.

I don't know how much experimenting you've done with the colors, but I found in JP that putting in some different colors for the 4 shades can make some awesome effects. I've got it going from dark red to red to yellow to white. The pics of the X-files translite makes it look like there is some purple in it. The dots might look good with a dark purple as the dark color and then lead into blue.

In the event that you wanted to revert back to a standard DMD, do you think you'd be able to?

#492 5 years ago

Thanks.

I just used this cheap trim router from Harbor Freight...
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-trim-router-44914.html

I was going to try cutting a 1/4" slot but that wouldn't leave any wiggle room. Instead I cut a 1/2" slot so it didn't have to be absolutely perfect. The only metal work was grinding down a few of the upper and lower tabs for the pieces that hold the translite and the DMD bezel in place. I had to take off about 1/8" from the two tabs that just barely stuck out into the new slot on that shelf.

The DMD controller was moved to the back box with the rest of the game PCBs. Our back box had screw holes already there for the board so I guess SEGA planned to put it there at one point? Because of this, I needed to buy a 30" 12-pin DMD cable.

All the metal hardware for the factory DMD was used... just in a different way. It was like an Erector set getting everything put together that helped hold the LCD in place, and give a place for the DMD Extender PCBs. The factory "slots" are perfect for pressing this hardware up against the LCD(with a little foam weather stripping of course).

And even with all this... you could put a normal DMD back in there without too much work. The only change to the cabinet is the slot and that wasn't cut through anything important.

And thanks for the suggestion of trying a dark purple for instead of the black... never thought of that! I'll have to give it a try later.

12
#493 5 years ago

I have settled on my colors for Baywatch. I used Chrisbee's first palette and tweaked the orange just a bit to include a little more pink to better resemble a sunset. This to me also improves skin tones. I freaking love it!!

baywatch.png
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#494 5 years ago

Baywatch looks good in color. Well done.

#495 5 years ago

2 more spot on shots. Colors are deeper in person.

image.jpg image-433.jpg
#496 5 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

I have settled on my colors for Baywatch. I used Chrisbee's first palette and tweaked the orange just a bit to include a little more pink to better resemble a sunset. This to me also improves skin tones. I freaking love it!!

Is it bad that low res pixelated women in bikinis makes want to get a Baywatch pin?

#497 5 years ago

That looks really good. I am excited to get one in my Dad's Batman Forever that we are restoring. It is almost done

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#498 5 years ago

Great result with the color selection on Baywatch! I will refer to this when I get another Baywatch in the future. I have used the DMD Extender on WCS94 (recently sold), TFTC and Wipe Out and have been real happy with the results on all of them!

#499 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Is it bad that low res pixelated women in bikinis makes want to get a Baywatch pin?

The woman on the far left is clearly naked.

#500 5 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

The woman on the far left is clearly naked.

Your post is NSFW!

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