Directions: Stern SAM
Making the harness:
Step 1: Locate connector J15 on the I/O Board. This located in the upper-left corner.
Step 2: Making sure that this connector is in the correct orientation is not a problem as it is keyed symmetrically (pin 5 is the key). You will want to make sure that the correctly lined with the header in the harness.
Step 3: Cut 8 short wires that will be used to connect IDC header to connector
Step 4. Cut the two long wires. You will need to be able to run these to where you have your color changing module mounted
Step 5: Hold 9-pin header with helping hands
Step 6: Solder 8 short wires to header pins
Note: You will solder wires to pins 1,2,3,4 and 6, 7, 8, 9
Note: Tinning (putting on solder) the headers and the wires makes attaching them together much easier.
Step 7: Solder the long wires to header pins. The GI lighting is in pairs: 1-6, 2-7, 3-8, 4-9. Any pair is fine to use.
Note: Tin the header and wires.
Note: I connect the short wires on one side of the header pin and the long leads on the other side. When soldering the long leads on, the short wires can fall off when the solder melts. Soldering at a slight upside-down angle (short wires on top), helps keep the short wires in place.
Note: If you are using a bundled set of wires (as shown), put the heat shrink tubing on before you attach the leads.
Step 8: Cut and place heat shrink over the wires and exposed pins
Note: Having different size tubes helps for covering pins with or without the long leads.
Step 9: Heat and shrink with heat gun
Step 10: Pin small wires with crimp contacts.
Note: Try to keep all the pins aligned with one another front/back this makes inserting them into the connector easier.
Step 11: push pins/push wires into IDC connector
Note: Needle nose pliers can help pushing the crimp contacts and wires into the connector
Note: Make sure that you have the crimp contacts aligned correctly before inserting into the connector (see pictures)
Step 12: Clip the key pin on the header (Pin 5)
Adding the transistor to the LED backbox circuit:
Note: Transistors have three pins:
1. Base/Gate: This is what will take the input from the AC line (after converted to DC). Then there is current to the Base, it will let current through the transistor from the collector to the emitter
2. Collector: This is connected towards the color changing module (or LED strip)
3. Emitter: This is connected towards the ground
Step 1: Find the negative wiring coming from the coloring changing module (or LED string if you don't have a module).
Step 2: Cut the wire and leave some length going to the module.
Step 3: Put a piece of heat shrink tubing on both wires and slide away from the splice junction
Step 4: If you are using TIP122, solder the middle pin (collector) to the wire going to the color changing module
Step 5: If you are using TIP122, solder the right pin (emitter) to the wire going to the ground.
Step 6: Slide on the heat shrink tubing, heat, and shrink
Making the AC->DC converter:
Note: In order for the transistor to act like a switch, it needs DC current going to its gate. The Gi circuit is AC and cannot trigger the gate on the transistor as it is. It needs to be converted to DC.
Step 1. Put heat shrink tubing on the long leads coming from the wiring harness (these are a pair of AC wires)
Step 2: Solder the AC wires to the bridge rectifier. These are very clearly marked. In this example, it is the middle two pins of the bridge rectifier.
Note: It doesn't matter which way the wires are wired
Step 3: Cut two short wires (used to link the bridge rectifier to the capacitor)
Step 4: Solder two short wires to the + and - of the bridge rectifier
Step 5: Add heat shrink tube, heat, and shrink
Step 6: Cut two more wires (longer)
Step 7: Twist and two new wires to the wires coming from the + and - of the bridge rectifier
Step 8: Slide on heat shrink tube over both of the wires and slide away from the end.
Step 9: Solder the twisted wires to the capacitor.
Note: Some capacitors are directional and one sides needs to be solder the positive and the other to the negative
Step 10: Slide up the heat shrink tube, heat, and shrink
Step 11: For the free positive wire coming from the capacitor, add heat shrink tubing
Step 12: Solder the free positive wire coming from the capacitor to the Base/Gate of the transistor.
Step 13: Slide up heat shrink tube, heat, and shrink
Step 14: Connect the negative wiring coming from the bridge rectifier to a ground. In this example, I spliced into the ground cable coming from the color changing module (below the transistor).
Note: Don't forget your heat shrink tube.
Step 15: Plug in wiring harness, reattach coloring changing module, connect Backbox, and test.
Step 16: If it works, put it back together and enjoy