Dixieland bingo - getting started


By TheWiz

2 months ago


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#1 73 days ago

First time ever seeing or working on a bingo machine. Looking for information on the startup sequence for the machine to get it to the point of ready to accept coins. Right now as soon as you power it up it kicks a ball to the shooter lane and the shutter opens so the balls just go round and round.

I am familiar with EM pinballs, reading and following EM schematics and am pretty good with all things electrical, mechanical.

Any input as to where to find information for operation of the machine is appreciated.

#2 73 days ago

Well I have say you picked the top of the line six card Bally EM bingo pinball machine to own. There isn't a better player out of all the six card bingos Bally ever produced and there were about 20+ six card games. With that being said......

You can start here below:

http://bingo.cdyn.com/machines/bally/dixieland/
There is a game manual at this link and more.

Game Play: There is a max coin limit of 11 quarters a player can deposit at the start of the game. Each coin lights a different feature for payout. See instructions manual in above link.

Game operation:
1)Make sure there are 5 balls in the ball trough.

2)After ball is raised into playfield shooter lane and shutter board is open...when a player shoots ball out through top arch metal flap gate switch the shutter board should close. Once shutter is closed when a ball lands in any numbered hole each number will light up on each card.

3) Any 3 in a line,4 in line or 5 in line number combinations will payout replays. (see instructions score card for payout amount on wood apron).

4) A player can choose to start to collect his in line wins after 4th ball is shot out into playfield or wait until after 5th and last ball in shot out into playfield by pressing the "C" button on metal lockdown bar. (selector lock replay pulls in on back door trip bank automatically after 4th ball).

5)Once the "C" is pressed the double or nothing feature will flash on backglass and the player at this moment has to choose either the "R" button for regular replay wins or "D: button to double replay wins.

6) Choosing either "R" or "D" will start payout and the player should see his replays registering on replay meter in backglass.

7) Once there are replays or credits on replay meter a player can use the red button on the front door to start a new game. The machine will not accept quarters until the replay meter is at "0000"

To remove replays or credits and cash in winnings...the player must reach under lower cabinet and turn "off" and back "on" switch. This will automatically knock off all replays from game meter.

#3 73 days ago

Welcome to the club! Dixieland is the last EM six card bingo produced.

When a coin is dropped, card #1 should light on the backglass, the shutter should open on the playfield, and ball #1 should lift to the shooter lane. Subsequent coins will light additional cards and features as noted on the backglass. Once you are coined up and ready to play, shoot the first ball. When the ball leaves the gate, the second ball should lift and the shutter should close. You will also see/hear the magic number relays trip. You will only see this effect if you have played your 9th, 10th and 11th coin.

If your shutter is cycling over and over, check to see that the coin switch is not stuck down. When in the down position, it should give a faint click (it's a microswitch). If it doesn't chances are good that it's stuck.

There are two options for the behavior of the coin switch: one replay per coin or 5 replays per coin. The behavior of that startup will change slightly based on which of these options is set.

If the latter, you will see/hear 5 replays added to the register.

Edit: Vic beat me to it! His text makes more sense.

#4 73 days ago

Thanks for the information. When does the relay bank motor run, if ever? I have not seen mine turn at all. I am usually stuck with tilt on and the tilt relay is tripped so the machine won't do anything. If I manually reset the tilt relay then I can get the machine to do a little but I don't know if it is right or wrong. Should the anti-cheat relay be energized?

#5 73 days ago

More questions! Is there an easy way to troubleshoot this thing? How do you have the playfiels up and cycle things without the balls shooting out and banging around in the bottom of the game? Are the slam switches and the plum bob tilt switch shown on the schematic? Is the red start button to use credits on the credit meter? I have lots of questions and figuring out some of them but it is complex, and I haven't even gotten to the playing and scoring stuff yet! Fun stuff, I am having a blast with this.

#6 73 days ago
Quoted from TheWiz:

When does the relay bank motor run, if ever?

It runs once the shutter opens, initially. If it does not, you will need to check your shutter motor switches (bottom left of the playfield). Check cams three and four carefully. Note that 120V could be present on one or more pairs of these switches.

Also, you can test the trip motor by lifting switch stack #1 on the trip motor (should be the switch right above the motor).

Quoted from TheWiz:

I am usually stuck with tilt on and the tilt relay is tripped so the machine won't do anything.

This can be caused by a lot of stuff, but first check to see if any of your tilts are stuck closed or the plumb bob is resting on top of the ring. Does the tilt trip relay trip every time the game turns on? It should not.

Bingos have a couple of different types of tilts. I like to call the trip relay a 'hard' tilt. When the machine is power cycled, a 'soft' tilt will occur until the anti-cheat relay is engaged. This (anti-cheat) engages with the start relay, and remains powered throughout the play cycle, unless there's a big problem. The anti-cheat will not power until all credits are removed from the replay register. Instead, the replay reset relay will engage and power the motor until all credits are removed.

Quoted from TheWiz:

Is there an easy way to troubleshoot this thing?

Define easy. It's easy when you know what you're looking for! The biggest thing is knowing the intended behavior, and it sounds like you're on the right track.

Quoted from TheWiz:

How do you have the playfiels up and cycle things without the balls shooting out and banging around in the bottom of the game?

The shooter lane switch can be held closed to tell the game that there is a ball in the shooter lane and not to lift.

Quoted from TheWiz:

Are the slam switches and the plum bob tilt switch shown on the schematic?

Yes, at B-9. All tilts are wired together, and displayed as a single entity on the schematic.

Quoted from TheWiz:

Is the red start button to use credits on the credit meter?

Yes, exactly! Once you've won credits, you can play them off one at a time using the red button. Function is exactly the same as a coin.

Quoted from TheWiz:

I have lots of questions and figuring out some of them but it is complex, and I haven't even gotten to the playing and scoring stuff yet! Fun stuff, I am having a blast with this.

Keep it up! Anything else just ask!

#7 73 days ago

Thank you @binbopodcast, that is the type of information I was looking for as I learn how these games work. The relay bank shaft was seized up. Had to remove the relays, lubricate the top shaft bearing and move it manually for awhile to get it loosed up. Put the relays back on and it works nice and smooth now.

I don't get the anti-cheat relay to pick by itself now so I am tracking that down. Only 3 switches so it shouldn't be too hard, but it always is :). Even when I trip the anti-cheat relay manually I can't coin up so there are other problems.

#8 72 days ago

Sooooo....now I get nothing when I turn it on. Tilt light is on, anti-cheat relay energized. Replay meter has some replays on it but they do not reset like it was before. Does not do anything with the red replay button or coin switch. Seems like I keep going around in circles.

Is there a particular state the control unit cams have to be in or does the machine reset itself to a known state?

What is the key thing for and how does that come into play? How does it need to be set for normal play? I did not have a key for it so I replaced the lock and set it like before. Before the lock actuator was not pushing on the switch stack and it seems like it should since when you move the switch clockwise it actuate the EOS switch. Speaking of which someone had removed the brown wire from the EOS switch, cut the green/yellow wire in half and connected the brown wire to one side of the cut green/yellow wire. In the head the brown wire had been moved. I pot the wires back the way they were supposed to be and can now add credits with the key but was wondering if there are any other modifications that may have been done in conjunction with what I have already reversed that I may have missed. Not sure what it was all about but supposed it was for free play?

#9 72 days ago
Quoted from TheWiz:

Sooooo....now I get nothing when I turn it on. Tilt light is on, anti-cheat relay energized. Replay meter has some replays on it but they do not reset like it was before. Does not do anything with the red replay button or coin switch. Seems like I keep going around in circles.
Is there a particular state the control unit cams have to be in or does the machine reset itself to a known state?
What is the key thing for and how does that come into play? How does it need to be set for normal play? I did not have a key for it so I replaced the lock and set it like before. Before the lock actuator was not pushing on the switch stack and it seems like it should since when you move the switch clockwise it actuate the EOS switch. Speaking of which someone had removed the brown wire from the EOS switch, cut the green/yellow wire in half and connected the brown wire to one side of the cut green/yellow wire. In the head the brown wire had been moved. I pot the wires back the way they were supposed to be and can now add credits with the key but was wondering if there are any other modifications that may have been done in conjunction with what I have already reversed that I may have missed. Not sure what it was all about but supposed it was for free play?

The game is supposed to recover for game play when turned on no matter what position any motor or stepper assembly is in when powered down.

Maybe you need to coin up the game or manually put credits on the Replay Register and try to start a game.

Note that the coin switches have three wires hooked to them and the switch has to be in the fully reset position for the game to operate.

About the cam lock that activates that switch stack: Thats the Bally "Kum-Back key". When a player has a lot of credits on the machine and can't play them off, they simply alert the attendant who notes the number of credits on the game and cycles the on off switch. The credits will go to zero. The attendant then gives a ticket to the customer noting the number of games they are entitled to. When the customer returns, he or she presents the ticket to the attendant who then takes the Bally Kum-Back Key and adds the credits to the credit meter for the customer to continue their play.

#10 72 days ago

Also,

You should get the instruction manual & schematic for your machine. All the answers are in that eight foot long schematic. These are complex Analog Computers.

#11 72 days ago

Thanks @mrbally, I have the instruction manual and the schematic. I am quiet familiar with analog computers as I worked on industrial control system back in the 70s where there were 3and4 bays full of 110volt Allen-Bradley relays. I got to the point I could troubleshoot it just by listening to the relays. But by then I had spent every day for 3 years trouble shooting them and knew what they were supposed to do. This is only my second night with a bingo machine and I am learning and very appreciative to all you folks patient enough to answer newbie questions. I do have to get a bigger schematic since my old eyes have a hard time reading the little one I have.

I found the initial startup problem! The switch on cam 5 of the cu was not making contact and passing 50 volts on the the rest of the machine. It now coins up and plays but only card 1 is lit and it doesn't pay on a winner. Some of the hole swirches light more than 1 number and a couple don't light any. I am slowly learning and figuring it out. Any tips are welcomed.

Thanks again for the explanation of the kum-back switch. Makes perfect sense when you know what it is for. I finally got that wiring returned to normal and it works correctly.

Learning this stuff all over again that I did for a living 40 years ago is fun. I am retiring at the end of April and will be glad to be done with the computer systems of the last 20 years. I have a stack of binges and em pinball machines to get going!

The Dixieland has cleaned up really nice. The instruction card were chewed up so I have to get some reproductions but the wood trim is nice.

#12 72 days ago

Nice.

Ironically, I started at Rockwell International in 1985, right after they acquired Allen-Bradley. And for me, an Applied Dynamics AD-2 analog computer is what I was working on. Used it to simulate panic stops for development of a new generation of Anti-Lock braking systems.

I retired from there six months ago and enjoy those monthly pension checks. Too young for Medicare though so working somewhere else and double dipping.

#13 72 days ago

Good for you! I worked for a company call Industrial Nucleonics, later changed to AccuRay. Used radioactive sources to measure weight of paper as it is made on paper machines, among other things. Went to work for a paper mill in 1986 and been there ever since. Was going to retire last year but stayed on to help with some new tracking system installations.

I enjoy working on the early solid state pinball machines since they use the same 1970s electronics that I learned in tech school, but the old em stuff is what I cut my teeth on when I started my career and it is what I enjoy the most.

#14 72 days ago

The game will not score until the fifth ball has past the ball gate. Then you must press the c button and if there are three or more in a row, the game will stop and flash double or nothing on the card with a winner.

Note that number lamps will light for all cards even if only one card selected.

Does that describe the multiple lights you're seeing? Or number 1 hole light numbers 1 and 12?

Cards not advancing - there is a selection stepper. Make sure that it steps crisply and resets snappily from each position. It may need to be rebuilt (which only takes a few minutes). This is very important. Also check for broken feeder wires to the spider on the outside of the stepper.

#15 72 days ago

Thanks @bingopodcast . The multiple lights are where a ball in # 1 hole will light 1, 6 and 9 lights. I think I got that narrowed down to the search disk not stopping on the rivets properly. I tried adjusting the stop relay like the one beside but it is as far as it will go and it just barely stops where I want it. Have not looked in the manual yet, does it show the home positions for the wipers?

Working on the feature select right, does not seem to step up with coin. I can manually actuate the selenoid and it lights properly on the backglass. I visually checked it as you just suggested and did not see anything obvious. Will try to watch it as a coin is deposited to see if it tries at all.

#16 72 days ago

The start relay should move that selector.

Regarding the lamps, yes, if the search discs (there are three) are not positioned appropriately, exactly on a particular set of rivets, then the game will "christmas tree" when searching begins, and multiple numbers could be highlighted depending on position.

You align these by making sure that the wipers marked in red stop exactly(ish) on the red marked rivets.

There should be a blob of paint on each set of search discs. You can adjust by loosening the search magnet relay screws and sliding back and forth slightly. There's not a ton of adjustment there, but usually enough. In some cases, particularly Dixielands that are used very hard, there is a different way to align to compensate for wear.

To move the search wipers (they only rotate in one direction), you push in the plate for the search magnet, then push on the search disc arms to rotate. The stop position shouldn't be -too- far out from normal.

See if that gets you where you need to go.

#17 72 days ago

Exactly what I have been doing. The disk giving me problems just doesn't quite have enough adjustment. I got it working for now but it won't be reliable and it doesn't seat clear down into the notch so I'm afraid it will chew up the boars after some time.

Got the feature selection working, another dirty switch on cam #5. Normally on EMs I will just go through and clean/check/adjust all contacts before I turn it on but for this I wanted some problems so I could troubleshoot and get familiar with a bingo.

#18 72 days ago

In some cases a new, deeper notch has to be cut if the cam has become too rounded. Happens after tens of thousands or hundreds of thousands of searches. Using a file, you can gently make a deeper cut. Sometimes the holes mounting the search magnet have to be elongated so that you can adjust the relay up higher. You could also cut at a slightly different spot and slide the relay forward or back to compensate.

#19 72 days ago

Thanks, I may have to go that route if what I did doesn't hold up. I put the bolt in the first hole and through to the back plate and put the back bolt through just the bracket so the back of the relay sits on top of the bolt, then pushed the front of the relay up as high and forward as it would go and tightened it up good. Had really good alignment on the rivets. We will see how that holds up.

Got the game going up to the scoring part. Not sure about the searching stuff, just doesn't seem quiet right. The last game I played I put the balls in the holes so I would have 5 across. After 5 balls I pushed the C button and it did it's search and gave me 2 credits. It then clicked a relay 4 or 5 times and quit but wouldn't start another game. I could keep pushing the C button and it would do the search again but not give any more credits Just keeps doing that over and over. Something not right with the end game. I'll investigate that tomorrow.

BTW - Is there an easy way to remove and get the stepper plates in a good position for a decent scrub down?

#20 72 days ago
Quoted from TheWiz:

After 5 balls I pushed the C button and it did it's search and gave me 2 credits. It then clicked a relay 4 or 5 times and quit but wouldn't start another game.

Make sure that the search disc is actually fully rotating around. There are switch stacks beside each search disc that prevent you from starting new games or interrupting an existing search. Check the switches on those stacks. One of the switches is a carry-over switch that will trigger the next search magnet (there are three on this game). Sounds like it is starting a search and getting stuck.

Quoted from TheWiz:

Is there an easy way to remove and get the stepper plates in a good position for a decent scrub down?

Do you mean steppers or search discs?

Steppers: Reset and mark unit on one finger and plate to ensure you reassemble in correct orientation.
Unscrew spider
Remove advance/reset springs
Carefully unwind large spring on the back of the unit, counting the number of turns.
Now you have access to the spider fingers, the rivet plate and the shaft of the gear.
Examine the gear as you remove. There is a small protrusion that holds it in the stop position. Make sure you take note of this for reassembly.

Clean rivets with a green scotch-brite pad and lube with a small dab of PBR grease or 3-in-1 household or super lube. Reassemble.

For Search Discs:
There is a high tension/high pressure spring held down with a screw and washer on the end of the control unit (search disc for cards 1&2). Unscrew this carefully as it will pop out.
Remove search magnet.
From here, you have to unscrew various brackets that hold the search disc in. It is very difficult to fully clean the search disc without doing this disassembly.
Take notes if you need to, there are a lot of screws and brackets to remember.
The large bracket bolts to the search disc and needs to be removed -be sure you get all the nuts, they like to hide in the spaghetti wiring on the back of the disc-.
Then the search disc wiper arms can be removed, carefully.
Set aside thin fiber washers and other small pieces.
Note that for reassembly, there is a plastic collar that the search disc slides into. Make extra super sure that the search wiper arms are inserted into this collar correctly There should be NO SLOP. If there is, it is slightly out of kilter and the unit will allow you to reassemble, but you will get really odd/bad behavior.

For the search discs on the back door, similar advice applies, but you have a double-stacked unit. Same spring-loaded screw, but then you have access to the first one relatively easily. To access the second, you have to disassemble more of that unit. Carefully note each part as you remove it and pay special attention to my note about alignment and slop!!!

While you have that disassembled, oil the leather clutch washers using Neatsfoot compound. If you have them fully removed, you can just drop them in a dish with the compound in, or you can oil in place using a syringe and time. Pad them off with a paper towel (you don't want them wet, just soaked, if that makes sense) before reassembly.

The search discs are some of the hardest stuff to do from a maintenance or cleaning perspective.

Should operate very well once done.

#21 72 days ago

Thanks for the details @bingopodcast , I knew it wasn't going to be easy. I think I will get it running as well as possible before I start tearing into the search units. This looks like it might have been gone through before in the past so maybe I can hold off of full disassembly, just clean what I can get to easily.

I have a Tahiti machine to work on next and it looks like I may have to try the full disassembly on that.

I use Blue Magic polish to clean discs and pretty much all metal parts. Slight abrasive plus chemical reaction really makes parts shine and after rubbing it out leaves a protective coat that keeps the parts clear and shiny for a long time. Cleans pretty quickly too. I hand polish bolts, screws, nuts and most small parts with it by hand. Much quicker than a tumbler, used to use the tumbler a lot but not anymore. You do want to use rubber gloves and not breathe the stuff but overall the best solution I have found for polishing up parts.

I may have found some of the issue with search and scoring. The relays at the very top left side of the back door are completely seized up, the plastic ladder won't budge at all. The 2 top ones had something dripping on theM and created a bunch of rust. Same thing that seized up the relay bank reset shaft that I found yesterday. I will pull those out today and get them cleaned up and working and see how much it helps.

I will try to post some pictures later so you can see the machine and see what you think of it.

#22 72 days ago
Quoted from TheWiz:

I think I will get it running as well as possible before I start tearing into the search units

Good idea. It's a tough job, and the later six cards make that job a little tougher.

Quoted from TheWiz:

I may have found some of the issue with search and scoring. The relays at the very top left side of the back door are completely seized up, the plastic ladder won't budge at all. The 2 top ones had something dripping on theM and created a bunch of rust. Same thing that seized up the relay bank reset shaft that I found yesterday. I will pull those out today and get them cleaned up and working and see how much it helps.

While it may not be the only problem, it certainly won't hurt to fix that.

Quoted from TheWiz:

Tahiti

Different subject, but you wouldn't happen to have a spare Tahiti playfield or under-playfield parts, would you?

#23 72 days ago

No spare Tahiti parts that I know of. A friend bought a number of bingo games on the cheap, something like $25 per game. There was the Tahiti, 2 Dixielands and I think 3 others but I don't remember the names. There are in storage close to where I live. I can go get the names of them tomorrow and let you know what they are, maybe parts from one of them will work for what you need. He gave me the Dixielands and he wants me to get the Tahiti working for him and has no interest in the others. One is for sure a parts machine, broke up cabinet, smashed backglass and in general just trashed.

#24 72 days ago

Tahiti, Galaxy and Hi-Fi are the only games that I need game-specific parts from. If one of the games is one of those, let me know. Thanks!

#25 71 days ago

Can't get the game to do anything now. Just what to confirm I'm not trying to fix what is not broken. The random motor/disc runs all the time, is it supposed to? The wiper search relay is energized. That doesn't seem correct. The search disc cam switch is open but still has zero ohms across it. When I power up the machine nothing happens except the random motor runs, and the control motor runs and the motor for the 2 search unit on the back door runs. Tilt light is on and no response from coin or start button.

What am I looking for?

#26 71 days ago

The majority of that behavior is ok, depending on when the game was turned off. But let's focus on the search disc motor turning.

It should not be unless the search discs are not latching into place. Please manually move the wiper arms until the search magnet armature clicks into the slot in the cam, then examine the switches mounted above. Make sure that switches are open or closed as appropriate.

The game will not allow you to do anything if it is searching.

The zero ohm switch... Can you post a pic of the switch?

#27 71 days ago

Thank you @bingopodcast . I am still trying to figure out how to upload pictures. My old iPad 1 doesn't want to connect to my mail account to get pictures from my phone so I will try figuring that out shortly. In the meantime .....

The problem was on search disk 3. That is the one I fussed around with trying to get adjusted. I was adjusting it to stop on the same rivets as #2, I did, but did not notice that then the index switch was then not on the pin and open. I adjusted it back so when the relay plate is in the notch the index switch is open. But now I am back to the issue of the hole switches lighting multiple hole lights, a ball in hole 1 will light 1 and 6 and 9 lights and it scores accordingly. So my question is: what is the correct alignment for the fingers for each search disk?

#28 71 days ago

That is printed in the manual (each search disc is labeled with a diagram showing wiper positions) and is almost certainly not the problem if the wipers are centered on the marked rivet to start. If they are not, then that could still be the issue.

You may have a problem with your plugs. Please inspect and clean the jones plugs, especially those from the playfield. If that doesn't fix it, you may have to unscrew the shutter board and look for shorts. The way the holes are wired, this is unlikely.

Does a ball in 9 light 6 and 1? How about 6?

To test, start a game and fire ball #1. Then take your finger and press the ball sensor switch on the top of each hole and observe the lights on the backbox. See if you can discern a pattern of other numbers beyond 1/6/9.

#29 71 days ago

I will do that again and list them out. I did not see in the manual where the home position is, I am probably just missing it and I don't see any marks on the disks themselves, again probably missing it since I don't know what I am looking for.

The games I have in storage are Golden Gate and Venice. Venice is the one really busted up. Golden Gate looks like it may live again.

#30 71 days ago

Golden Gate is one of my favorites. Venice has an interesting side game that is solid state, but a different playfield layout.

#31 71 days ago

I am totally lost on figuring out the search disks and where the home positions is suppose to be. I did figure out the the numbers stamped in the Bakelite are the positions that are in the manual and when looking at the rivet side where the numbers are marked you count counter clockwise and the drawings in the manual are the wire side. That was not all that obvious to me..

Jones plugs look okay. I did not buzz them out but inspected them and did not see any shorts. I have cleaned them before and them nice and snug. Did not see any wires off in the female side and all the sockets look good.

The light test results:

All okay, only lighting the light it is suppose to on all cards are; 2, 7, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 20, 21, 22 and 24

19 is probably okay also but it didn't light on card 4, may be a bad bulb.

18 does not light on cards 1, 2 and 3 but does light on 4, 5 and 6.

1 lights 1, 6 and 9 on all cards.
6 lights 1, 6 and 9 on all cards.
9 lights 1, 6 and 9 on all cards.

3 lights 3 and 5 on cards 1, 2 and 3
3 lights 3, 4 and 5 on cards 4, 5 and 6

4 lights 3 and 5 on cards 1, 2 and 3
4 lights 3, 4 and 5 on cards 4, 5 and 6

5 lights 3 and 5 on cards 1, 2 and 3
5 lights 3, 4 and 5 on cards 4, 5 and 6

23 lights 23 and 25 on all cards
25 lights 23 and 25 on all cards

18 does not light anything on cards 1,2 and 3
18 lights 18 on cards 4, 5 ans 6

The second switch (bottom of hole) for 1, 7, 9, 22 and 25 do not light anything.

#32 71 days ago

A simple question - the manual says the card lights are 17 volt and that is what the schematic shows. I cleaned and checked all the bulbs a couple of days ago before I turned the machine on and they were all #44, #47 and #55s. I replaced all bulbs with #47s and the lights in the cards show up okay. I checked the voltage across lit ones and it is 6.3 volts.

So do people re-wire the games to use all the same bulbs? What was the purpose of having the card lights different? Was it just so they would be brighter or last longer and not burn out as quick?

#33 71 days ago
Quoted from TheWiz:

The second switch (bottom of hole) for 1, 7, 9, 22 and 25 do not light anything.

That is only used for the Magic Number feature and you can safely ignore that for now.

Quoted from TheWiz:

18 does not light anything on cards 1,2 and 3

The way the lamps work on the six cards - there are three cards wired serially - for example, if you have a lamp out on cards 1/2 or 3, all lamps will be out for that number.

4/5/6 are a separate serial chain.

A few of the errors above are just a lamp or socket that isn't making good contact.

Quoted from TheWiz:

1 lights 1, 6 and 9 on all cards.

You've got a short or feedback somehow into the hole sensor. I think the next step would be to unclip the shutter board and flip it down and look for solder blobs or anything out of the ordinary. The sensor boards are chained together and there will be solder on them, but you will have to see if there is anything touching something odd.

Quoted from TheWiz:

I am totally lost on figuring out the search disks and where the home positions is suppose to be. I did figure out the the numbers stamped in the Bakelite are the positions that are in the manual and when looking at the rivet side where the numbers are marked you count counter clockwise and the drawings in the manual are the wire side. That was not all that obvious to me..

Sorry about that. If you can figure out a way to post a pic of your search discs, that would help. As I mentioned above, there is a marked rivet position and then the wipers should also be marked. I can tell at a glance if they are or are not and how things need to change.

If you do not get a christmas tree effect when searching (a bunch of random numbers cycle throughout the backglass during search), then your problem is probably more mundane (like shorted sensor switches).

#34 71 days ago

Thanks. I will work on getting pictures posted now. I'll tahe the shutter bord off and check again. I've had it off a number of times already. Had to fix a couple of solder connections on the plates for the common wires since someone in the past had not done a good repair job.

I am slowly figuring out how this all fits together and works. Many thanks to you for helping me out, I know I ask a lot of questions and I am keen on details.

#35 71 days ago

Not sure what angle you need. Let me know if these are not suffient.

IMG_4156 (resized).JPG

IMG_4157 (resized).JPG

#36 71 days ago

Still do not understand when you say one of the rivets is marked. Marked how?

image (resized).jpg

#37 71 days ago

So what it looks like to me is the disk for cards 3 & 4 is one off. It is sitting on 48 which is in circuit. 49 & 50 are unused so the home needs to be on one of those, the other 2 are on 49. Of course it is the hardest to get to the screws to adjust the position of the relay :(. I ave it set, just need to tightened it down good. In the meantime I will finish testing all the switches since I have the shuttle off.

#38 70 days ago

Switches are fine. Unplugged the playfield Jones plugs and buzzed everything out and nothing shorted and all switches work well.

Got disk 2 adjusted and tightened down. Did not help at all, still the same issue, maybe a few more now. Back to thinking about it some more and studying the manual and schematic.

#39 70 days ago

Sorry for delay - position 50 is where all three search discs should be aligned. None of yours are on pos. 50.

Agree that 49 and 50 are unused on the main arm, but other arms have wipers that could be making contact. The manual shows post 50 is the default alignment for the main wiper arm. If you examine the picture in the manual, you'll see letters A, Z, 1,2,3,4 and 5. Those are representation of the wipers. Make sure they are all in pos. 50 and see what happens.

#40 70 days ago

That is what I thought also but I don't think I have enough adjustment to get them there. I looker closer on disk 1 (cu one) and saw it was on 48 which is in circuit. I adjusted it to 49 and my multiple light problem went away. It does not score correctly though. 3 in a line on single card 1 gives me 70 credits. It acts like it gives the desired 4, pauses an instant and then counts on up to 70. Still lots to do but making progress and learning.

#41 70 days ago

Here it is so far. I will need to get better cards, I just put those on so I would know what it is suppose to score.

IMG_4164 (resized).JPG

#42 70 days ago

Just noticed in the attached photo I have some multiple lights on again, rats!

#43 70 days ago

There should only be #47 and #55 lamps in the game. Mixing #44's cause weird things to happen to the game when placed in controlled lamp positions on Bally 6 card bingo games.

#44 70 days ago

I have all #47s in the game. Just wondering about why the schematic says 17 volts for the card lights but it measures 6.3 volts and #47 is a 6.3.volt lamp. Has it been rewired or is that just a mistake on the schematic and it read 7 volts.

#45 70 days ago

So, one last "getting started" question and I will close this thread and open a new one as needed.

Is the search disk on the control unit (cards 1 & 2) supposed to always come to rest at it's home position? I have noticed that it does not and was wondering if that is something I need to investigate. The other 2 seem to always be in the home position and the way I read the schematic they should always be there unless they are searching.

#46 70 days ago
Quoted from TheWiz:

Is the search disk on the control unit (cards 1 & 2) supposed to always come to rest at it's home position?

Yes. Very weird things will happen otherwise.

I haven't looked at the schematic for the lamps, but a center tapped 17 winding would give you about 7V. I think that is what is going on on the 6v lamps. Certain games would cut the 17v down with a big resistor, but not at this time (that I recall).

#47 70 days ago

Certain lamps are wired in series on the 3 and 6 card games. Take out one of the three series wired #47 lamps on cards 1-3 and replace with a #44 and watch what happens with bulb brightness.
Then put the #47 back in.

#48 70 days ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

I haven't looked at the schematic for the lamps

Now I have and I see your confusion. The important thing on the schematic for the card lamps is not that it appears the 17V line carries through the cards - but that the schematic specifically calls out 47s like @mrbally and I have said previously. The circuit is designed to drop a specific amount of voltage per lamp with a stack of three bringing it down to the appropriate voltage.

#49 70 days ago

Got it. Thanks to both of you. Strange they desined it that way but I have been around long enough and have done enough software design to know designers pretty much build onto what already exists and then you look at it from a current standpoint and wonder why in the world they did it like that

I checked my parts Dixieland in storage and all 3 of the search disks were set on 49. I fussed around with mine to get it to 50 and then realized that if I did actually get it to 50 then the index pin would not be actuating the switch so I am becoming convinced that they should be set to 49.

#50 70 days ago

Set them all to 49 and see, but the pin switch has a bit of slack and can be moved back and forth to change. The most most most important thing is that all should be on the same rivet.

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