So I got my Paragon almost up and running until the other day all the displays went out. I tested TP2 on the solenoid driver and it is not giving a consistant number for the DCV (number jumps around from .04 - 180) I tested R52 and the rest of the resistors and dioes inline with TP2 and they are all measuring fine individually. I'm using a physcially smaller .25A Fuse for F1 instead of the 3/16A (which is what the schematics call for). The displays were working with this fuse before, the only thing I did before the displays went out was replace some bulbs under the playfield and replace a toasty R52 with another 390 resistor.

TP4 on the solenoid driver is reading accuratly as well as TP2 on the Rectifier Board. I reflowed the solder of the the J3 Header pins just in case it might have been a cold/cracked solder.

Everything else works fine except sometimes the start button will not start a game on some powerups which is the lesser of my two worries.

Any ideas why TP2 on the solenoid driver is suddenly jumping around voltages when everything else seems to be ok?

Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion, although I did try to adjust the HV adjust knob from one end to the other and everywhere inbetween but nothing worked. Also, I did replace both of the caps on the board if anyone was thinking that might have been the problem.

So I tested the HV POT and it's fluctuating smoothly from 0-25k on my DMM. Still trying to trouble shoot this problem if anyone has more suggestions.

Tried unplugging all displays except one, that one isn't lighting up, either. I rebuilt J3 headers and pins. It couldn't be the fuse, could it? I got a .25 instead of the .187 (3/16). Its a smaller fuse so I crimped the holder in to make it nice and snug. I know it worked with it in there before then after I replaced R52 is when I started to get no display.

Tp2 is jumping around with inconsistent numbers while tp4 (above tp2) and all other TPs are a solid number. I tested all of the resistors, etc in the high voltage section and they all read ok.

Tested both diodes, replaced 4004 with 4007, checked all the resistors... still whacky TP2 #'s.

Could R35 affect TP2's reading at all? It seems like when I test the voltage on that resistor it fluctuates quite a bit and never lands on 100k ohms like it should read. I thought that resistor was inline with TP4, however, and TP4 is reading 250v like it should. Maybe I'm reading the schematics wrong, could anyone point me as to what all is inline with TP2?

Thanks again guys!

Still not quite fixed. I Replaced R35 because it was reading funky. Found out that my replacement resistor did the same thing and that my original was actually ok when taken out of the board, just jumped all over the place on the DMM when it was in the circuit.

Can anyone help me out as to what resistor/cap directly affects R35? Maybe someone could list the resistors/caps down the line of R35? Just want to find the culprit that is making R35 flake out when it's in a circuit.

Here's a pic of the Schematic. R35 is listed in the lower left:

Thank you guys very much!

20130426_003453.jpg

I tested TP 1 & 3 on my driver board, they are both reading 5v. I also tested TP 1 on my first display, it's also getting 5v.

VR1 diode is reading .613 with the DMM set to diode mode and one end out of the circuit. Is the 140 you are referring to in circuit when powered on? Also, are you saying to pull the fuse then power on the game and test TP2?

Thanks again

So I took out the fuse and measured tp2 - its reading a consistant 3.14vdc. I tried to test the diode, not sure if I was doin it right but I couldnt get a constant number. I know it never got anywhere near 140 though...

What would you suggest at this point?

Thanks!

Yep, I have replaced both of the caps.

I tested the VDC of VR1, it's jumping around. it gets up to 150 at points but never stays. The other diode is reading a constant 250vdc.

Replace the VR1 or look at what might be causing it to be fluctuating? Weird that it tested fine out of circuit but not working in circuit. If it does need to be replaced, I don't have access to these diodes locally and just need the one. Would you happen to have an extra I could buy off you?

Thanks!

Thanks again!

Alright I'll give it a go with a new diode. Sent you a PM Baraka.

Hopefully it does the trick! Thanks again to everyone, great support here.

Got your diodes in today Barak, thank you very much!

I am still having the same problem, even with the replaced diode the diode is reading about .185 vdc in circuit and staying pretty consistant around that range... What should I try out next?

Yeah, I replaced C26. If I replaced all of the components on the high voltage section that should be a fail-safe way to make sure this works, right? Or could it be something else not in that section that could be causing all this?

Thanks!

Sounds good, what should they be reading when set testing in Diode mode?