(Topic ID: 260063)

Dished Insert Varathane Fill - Technique-Only Question


By clodpole

5 months ago



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  • 47 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 days ago by ibuypinballs
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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    #8 5 months ago

    Use a Product called Everbrite. It is clear, hard, and it is a Self Leveling evaporation.

    Cleans up easy with Alcohol, and youll have a perfectly leveled insert.

    No mistakes possible.

    If my post is misplaced based on your title, just say so, and Ill remove....

    https://www.everbritecoatings.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiA35rxBRAWEiwADqB37zDk6c5Njkw-6_n8MTtjsECn1jjU0J7mhX2W3AuXbQoh3uGujjqQ8RoC2HoQAvD_BwE
    pasted_image (resized).png

    #11 5 months ago

    Its easy. First, it depends on the depth, clean the whole area.
    Run a circle mask around insert. With a toothpick/safety pin/small brush, drop in a layer.

    Not much, just enough to cover. Let Dry, it will dry to a thin layer
    and level itself flat, even if you put a little too much.

    Continue building self leveling layers until you can feel or gauge by peeling
    back the mask, so it is close to level.

    Based on the surrounding area of the insert, decide whether you want the last layer
    as a fill, or with a larger mask, a feathered edge.
    Wax.

    If you dont like the product, dampen a cloth, q-tip with Alcohol and remove it.
    Taking 2-3 layers off takes no time.

    Some jobs come out almost invisible, some you can see the last layer.

    I have used it with mylar, touched up planking, coating metal posts, and parts in restoration,
    hundreds of thousands of pieces of jewelry, shooter knobs, lock down bars....

    Its a pretty cool product because it levels.

    Whats bad about it.

    Alcohol is the solvent, so chemically less durable, but not inside a game, unless you wipe down with
    a solvent.

    It can take more layers that an oil based filler, so a little more time, but it dries really fast.

    Not as hard as a clear coat that is oil based.

    But the stuff is pretty hard, and a common area of usage in coating is Brass handrails at Casinos,
    (where I learned of it) This gives you an idea on its durability. I think the site has vids still.

    #12 5 months ago

    One more, for me, I became, "Good at it", to do a dozen cupped inserts at once, without masks.

    Granted, it was a players game playfield with lots of touch ups also coated, it just wasnt worth the
    cost to do a playfield disassemble, but I wanted the game to look and play better.

    #15 5 months ago

    I have only seen it alter color, when I used on a 1940s wood rail.

    Of course, it depends on the paint used, any insert lettering showing, not coated, made with
    chemicals that could interact.

    So, Sure, yes, its possible. I dont have enough tests on all diff times, and manufacturer changes.

    However, if concerned, one could test somewhere on playfield hidden, or layer in first layer slowly to "lock
    in"

    It is my "opinionated use", so please dont hold me to responsibility.

    #18 5 months ago

    Sorry, no, I have not done layers on a printed deep insert. or not printed.
    I think the most amount of layers I have applied is 10-12.

    I have not seen any yellowing from additional layers, other than when the jar gets a few
    years old and about 1/6 left. Im not sure if that is from contamination or age.

    Like for acrylic paints on a playfield, if one brushes heavy, or goes back and forth with a brush, it can interact and lift Acrylic touchup paint. The key is to layer lightly once, in first coat and second coat to seal in. Best to wait for acrylic paint to fully dry a couple days, depending on temp and humidity.
    Also the brand of Acrylic.

    Our thread op has experience in Acrylic additives, if that helps someone to ask.

    The main points are self leveling, clear, durable, removable with alcohol.
    Everything else is on a unique basis of pin, and application.
    If it doesnt work for you, Im hope you would find other uses in pins and around the house.

    4 months later
    #33 25 days ago
    Quoted from DropTarget:

    Hi,
    Everbrite sells a few different products. Which one do you use?

    Sorry I didnt see your post, its the protectoclear (?).
    I just did a few spots on Mousin....took 3 minutes yesterday. This morning, flat, clear, hard, and invisible. Done.

    As I am polishing parts slowly as I go through this, I am coating. Even a lock down bar on a Bally EM Hayride, I had zero plating left looks great 2 years later.

    #39 19 days ago

    Sorry...never used them on games that old with graphics.....

    #45 19 days ago

    Alcohol will take the coating off of metal, but I cant speak for the variety of plastics, as They always worked. At most, Ive done maybe 15 plus games, 30-40 inserts but never any with more than just lettering. (thousands in metal)

    Im sorry again for recommending a product I have used successfully for almost 15 years, but obviously failed in a detailed, age or material application.

    I guess just another reason for me, to avoid sharing....I feel terrible for the snowman.

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