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(Topic ID: 274706)

Dirty Harry problem is driving me nuts


By Jakers

80 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 72 days ago by Jakers
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 80 days ago

I recently bought a Dirty Harry from a friend of a friend. It was his first pin and he just didn’t catch the Pinball bug. It was working at his place when I picked it up. I played a game and could tell it needed some love and a good shop job, but it fully functioned.

Got it home, set up and then 30 seconds into the first game it slam tilts. Played another game for a few seconds and slam tilt happened again. Then upon powering back up it just said “slam tilt switch stuck”.

Long story short, the slam switches were not stuck. I reseated all the connections to the MPU. That didn’t help. Went to bed annoyed, woke up, turned the game on and it played fine again. However, now it randomly and quite often thinks the enter button is being pressed while I’m playing. It beeps like I’m in the menu and says “open coin door to use buttons”. Also, it randomly slam tilts still but not very often.

I installed new connectors on the MPU at J212 and J205 since they looked pretty corroded, but the same problem remains. (See pic). The MPU doesn’t look terrible to me but I’m wondering if these symptoms point toward battery acid damage. I can see a bit of acid damage near the resistors but it doesn’t look that bad to me. The underside of the MPU has no signs of corrosion or cold solder joints.

Thoughts on how to diagnose this problem?

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#2 80 days ago

Judging from that picture (tough to fully see online), that board needs quite a bit of work. The batteries leaked and had a party there. Headers, the whole bottom row, and most likely more. It acts like a very slow burning fire. Even if you find the exact thing causing the current problem, it will keep spreading. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

#3 80 days ago

Yeah that board is a hot mess and the corrosion is probably the issue and it will only get worse. Consider replacing it, you can them for like $200. I'd just replace it for an easy and quick solution, and it's relatively cheap for what you get.

https://ksarcade.net/rottendog-security-cpu-a-17651-mpusec.html

If it weren't for the board my suggestion would be check every switch in the slam tilt column/row as it's probably shorting.

That probably IS the reason, except that the short is in the board not the playfield. Either way that board needs repair or replacement.

Don't be annoyed or upset, it's not the end of the world it's just pinball and this is what pinball does. I've lost count of the 90s games I've gotten in with a board that looks just like that. If I'm not buying from a collector, I expect it now. And even if I am buying from a collector it's still like 50/50.

#4 80 days ago

It looks like every single resistor in that line of two rows has been hit. Look at the dark solder dabs. They should have a shine or at least silver look to them. Those look darkened.

#5 80 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I recently bought a Dirty Harry from a friend of a friend. It was his first pin and he just didn’t catch the Pinball bug. It was working at his place when I picked it up. I played a game and could tell it needed some love and a good shop job, but it fully functioned.

Yeah, you have battery damage. A lot of it. Send it off to a professional to get fixed before that spreads more (and it will).

#6 80 days ago

I was afraid you guys would say that. I think I was trying to talk myself out of the inevitable. Unfortunate, but it is what it is.

I do have a DrWho, World Cup 94 and a Bram Stokers Dracula. Could I swap MPUs with one of them just to confirm? Obviously I would have to swap game ROMs as well but is there anything else?

#7 80 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I was afraid you guys would say that. I think I was trying to talk myself out of the inevitable. Unfortunate, but it is what it is.
I do have a DrWho, World Cup 94 and a Bram Stokers Dracula. Could I swap MPUs with one of them just to confirm? Obviously I would have to swap game ROMs as well but is there anything else?

No, those are all a different earlier board system.

I don’t know what you need to confirm. 100 percent that board needs to be repaired or replaced.

Also spend a few bucks on a chip puller, which you will probably need depending on which new board you order.

#8 80 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I do have a DrWho, World Cup 94 and a Bram Stokers Dracula. Could I swap MPUs with one of them just to confirm?

World Cup 94 is WPC-S so you can swap U6 and U22 to see if the problem persists.

The other location that can often cause grief with column/row shorts is the opto board (if a machine has one). Dirty Harry has a 16-opto board. You can disconnect J5 from that board (to isolate it from the switch matrix) and see if the problem persists.

Edit: I should add that I concur with everyone that is saying that board needs repair. In my opinion the alkaline corrosion looks to be shallow but widespread. It is the likely cause of the problem but if you send that board out for repair and the problem is on another board you will be sending that other board out for repair (or replacing it with a new one).

#9 80 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I was afraid you guys would say that. I think I was trying to talk myself out of the inevitable. Unfortunate, but it is what it is.
I do have a DrWho, World Cup 94 and a Bram Stokers Dracula. Could I swap MPUs with one of them just to confirm? Obviously I would have to swap game ROMs as well but is there anything else?

No confirmation of that type necessary. That board is a mess. Send it out to be fixed up and arrest that corrosion before it gets worse.

#10 79 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

It was working at his place when I picked it up. I played a game and could tell it needed some love and a good shop job, but it fully functioned.

Maybe check plugs on the coin door interface board. I believe both areas of concern go through that board.

#11 79 days ago

Yup, I’m thinking I’ll go with the rottendog MPU replacement, then eventually get this original board repaired so I have an extra for testing purposes down the road. Who’s the go to for MPU repair?

I did try unplugging J5 from the opto board like dumbass mentioned. When I power the game up the dmd says “check fuses f115 and f116, j112 and opto 12v supply”. It’s been sitting in attract mode like that for 20 minutes now and I haven’t gotten that phantom beep yet. However, I cannot start a game and only the escape button inside the coin door works.

I’ve also checked the coin door interface board for cold solders and it doesn’t have any.

#12 79 days ago

Well, forget what I just said about not hearing the phantom beep. Literally seconds after posting that...it started phantom beeping. Lol.

#13 79 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I did try unplugging J5 from the opto board like dumbass mentioned. When I power the game up the dmd says “check fuses f115 and f116, j112 and opto 12v supply”. It’s been sitting in attract mode like that for 20 minutes now and I haven’t gotten that phantom beep yet. However, I cannot start a game and only the escape button inside the coin door works.

Make sure the plug on the opto board is not a pin off.

#14 79 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Yup, I’m thinking I’ll go with the rottendog MPU replacement, then eventually get this original board repaired so I have an extra for testing purposes down the road. Who’s the go to for MPU repair?
I did try unplugging J5 from the opto board like dumbass mentioned. When I power the game up the dmd says “check fuses f115 and f116, j112 and opto 12v supply”. It’s been sitting in attract mode like that for 20 minutes now and I haven’t gotten that phantom beep yet. However, I cannot start a game and only the escape button inside the coin door works.
I’ve also checked the coin door interface board for cold solders and it doesn’t have any.

Have you checked all the wiring on the coin door and components? I had a similar issue when two wires came off of their lugs on the switches for the coin slots and would cause some funky stuff to happen with the game and service buttons.

#15 79 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Who’s the go to for MPU repair?

Chris Hibler CHRISHIBLER comes highly recommended by a lot of people.

Quoted from Jakers:

I did try unplugging J5 from the opto board like dumbass mentioned. When I power the game up the dmd says “check fuses f115 and f116, j112 and opto 12v supply”.

This is because the game cannot see any of the optos (they are disconnected). It is expected. Enter test mode and select any switch test (edges or levels). Note which switches are closed (by default). You are looking for entire rows / columns or patterns. If you cannot enter test mode then you have a bigger problem that requires the CPU board to be repaired (or replaced) first. Swapping in a known good CPU board can help diagnose and isolate.

As mentioned it's likely the CPU board is the cause of all your problems but it is also possible that you have another problem that is being masked by this problem. You can differentiate (or exclude) that by swapping in a known good.

#16 79 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Chris Hibler CHRISHIBLER comes highly recommended by a lot of people.

This is because the game cannot see any of the optos (they are disconnected). It is expected. Enter test mode and select any switch test (edges or levels). Note which switches are closed (by default). You are looking for entire rows / columns or patterns. If you cannot enter test mode then you have a bigger problem that requires the CPU board to be repaired (or replaced) first. Swapping in a known good CPU board can help diagnose and isolate.
As mentioned it's likely the CPU board is the cause of all your problems but it is also possible that you have another problem that is being masked by this problem. You can differentiate (or exclude) that by swapping in a known good.

chris will just tell you to replace it i imagine. pretty rough!

#17 79 days ago

Jakers I can take care of that. It’s a good afternoon removing parts, cleaning up corrosion, conformal coating and replacing parts.

If you’d like to send it to me, following are the instructions and shipping form:

Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact

I’m a bit backed up. But I can take care of it.


Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31 http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

#18 78 days ago

chrishibler I've ordered a rottendog MPU replacement. I'll be contacting you soon about repairing the original board. Thanks for offering and sending the instructions!

Also, thanks to everyone else that has helped in here. I can't wait to get this game fully functioning so I can start the teardown/deep clean of the playfield. It has bubbling mylar everywhere but looks like there's a perfect playfield underneath.

#19 72 days ago

Followup:

You guys were right. Looks like the MPU was the problem. I installed a new MPU from K's Arcade. The game has been on and playing now for an hour straight without any problem. As an added bonus, the MPU came installed with a more recent code version.

Thanks for all the help!

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