(Topic ID: 76823)

Dirty Harry - "Magnet is broken"

By huo

7 years ago

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  • 21 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by bballfan
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


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#1 7 years ago

I just picked up a Dirty Harry. It's changed hands a few times here in Michigan.
I know a couple of people that have owned this and heard about their attempts to fix this magnet.
But apparently they've failed. I'd like to possible figure it out. Is this a common issue for this game?
Right when you go into settings you get this warning.

#2 7 years ago

Start off by inspecting how it is sitting in the playfield. I removed mine, grounded down the top of the threaded bolt straight. Reinstalled it flush, checked and replaced the fuse and it was good to go. I also had the broken magnet error code.

#3 7 years ago

Yo netdefilr , do you have the Original manual for Dirty Harry ?

#4 7 years ago

@doozie: ill take a look at it. Its hard to see under the plastics.

@BLACK_Rose: no I dont. Is the a repo that might have it in pdf?

#6 7 years ago

Does the opto switch register during switch test and in coil test can you hear the magnet pulse?

#7 7 years ago

Regardless of if it's working of not the magnet core will be worn like it's been hit with a hammer and should be repaired or replaced. image.jpg

#8 7 years ago

So here's the status. If I turn on the solenoid for right magnet, it makes a noise. It's a difficult spot to get to, due to the ramps. The magnet isn't making the "on" noise on a consistent basis. And the rare rolls up the right orbit where the on noise happened, it pushed the ball away from it. The wrong connector was hooked up to the magnet. Which is now not hooked to anything. And the magnet appears to be plugged in properly now.

I think the pos/neg is in reverse if its pushing away the ball. Is that a correct assumption? But even if that was the case, why isn't it making the on noise every time?

Doozie: Any confidence after I looked into this, that this part will help?

#9 7 years ago

Getting a new magnet core would be more of a tweak to get the magnet and ball operating more smoothly. The wiring appears to be the issue. Can you show a picture of the wiring at the magnet to confirm it's wired correctly.

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from Doozie:

Getting a new magnet core would be more of a tweak to get the magnet and ball operating more smoothly. The wiring appears to be the issue. Can you show a picture of the wiring at the magnet to confirm it's wired correctly.

Here's the magnet. Although the colors don't follow through on the other side. Forgive my colorblindness, but the red-gray cable is towards the pointy side of the molex connector.

#11 7 years ago

Yellow/grey and red/grey image.jpg

#12 7 years ago

Haha. We are posting at the same time. They appear the same.

#13 7 years ago

Also, during a magnet test the R. Loop Mag. never lights up. Only the R Mag Opto.

#14 7 years ago

I would start my taking the magnet assembly out and inspect the wiring for any kinks along with the magnet core wear.

#15 7 years ago

Here's a video.

#16 7 years ago

It's working like HS2 magnets pushing the ball. I've exceeded my pay scale as to how the wiring does this. Maybe someone else can assist on this. I would still take out the magnet assembly out and inspect the wiring.

#17 7 years ago

You have wires that are not hooked up to anything. That also should be addressed. They must hook up to something. If you changed the words to turbo force instead of magna force you would be good.

#18 7 years ago

The extra wires/connectors are for the drop target assembly that are not used in the production machines. WMS didnt cut them out of the wiring harnesses when they went into actual production.

#19 7 years ago

Maybe this thread may be of some assistance. I vaguely remember in my repair that the ball was getting
hung up by the magnet and grinding straight the magnet core and increasing the playfield angle fixed it.

Quoted from indypinhead:

On my Shadow, every now and then, the magnet will hold the ball for a couple of seconds. Then, instead of slinging the ball into the lock, the magnet just lets go of the ball, allowing it to roll down the playfield.


But this is how you want the magnet to react.

#20 7 years ago

As an update, I flipped the magnet donut. It now attracts the ball. I believe it is working... kind of.

Thanks to LTG, I was able to turn the volume all the way down to hear when the magnet is charged. On the skill shot, it seems to charge only after the ball is past the magnet. Some modes going into them the magnet is charged. And when you light the left inland for magna it sometimes -- not all the time -- tries to grab the ball right after the inlane is pressed. So it never had a chance for the ball to get up there.

The magnet test activates the magnet going into the test, but after a second the magnet is no longer checked. So rolling the ball up the right orbit activates the right orbit switch but not the manget. I'm running LX-2 code...

I've gotta read the manual to figure out where this is plugged into on the boards so I can test continuity per LTG.

#21 7 years ago

Here is what I found in the manual that should help.
The magnet is powered by the Q1 transistor on the flipper board(upper left backbox).
The yellow grey goes to J902 position 3
and red grey to J907 position 8.
Also check the fuses and fuse holders for problems.F902 should be for the magnet.

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