(Topic ID: 290674)

Dirty Harry Fire Smelly

By TecumsehPlissken

3 years ago


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#1 3 years ago

Working on a Dirty Harry that WAS running on a rottendog driver board. The board burned up today melting the connector at J124. asking a favor if someone can tell from pictures where the origin was? one of the transistors in that area? and if can determine that what does it drive? I don't have the manual for this game will look it up

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#2 3 years ago

damn! hope you weren't having a good game.

#3 3 years ago

Someone should be able to diagnose the problem from the heat pattern.
Really sucks, I want one of these.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

The board burned up today melting the connector at J124. asking a favor if someone can tell from pictures where the origin was? one of the transistors in that area? and if can determine that what does it drive?

It is probably from J122. The first image shows carbon at pin 1 and maybe pin 2.

solenoid_table.jpgsolenoid_table.jpg
#5 3 years ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

The board burned up today melting the connector at J124

I'm quite sure J124 isn't used in this game, I think it started at J122
DH-J122 (resized).jpgDH-J122 (resized).jpg

edit:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/warning-to-rottendog-wdb089-owners-check-it-now

#6 3 years ago

Another quality product from rottendog!
Please hurry up with your boards, DumbAss they can’t come fast enough!

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Please hurry up with your boards, DumbAss they can’t come fast enough!

Thanks. I have this board made and available. I keep my boards as bare and build them on demand to keep available bare boards for those that want them bare. The boards I have available are listed in the first post of the thread for my boards. If anybody reading this is interested in any of them please feel free to contact using PM.

I think for this board I would try to figure out what happened but more importantly WHY. The solenoid power fuses (F103-F105) are supposed to protect against this kind of problem if fused correctly. It's possible that a fuse may not blow if the current draw is not sustained at a level to blow the fuse (i.e. not directly shorted) but sustained for enough of a period of time to heat up the component until the component ultimately ignites and then whatever flammable material also ignites. The headers have a plastic locking ramp and the flames contacted the plastic of J124 and probably ignited it.

I would check the wiring of J122, the wiring of the solenoids in the list that zaza has indicated in his excellent annotation of the image and the potential Rottendog power board issue in the linked thread.

#9 3 years ago

Thank You zaza! the left ramp diverter is stuck solid and the top left popper is very rough, really sticky. I will start with those & replace the melted connector. Then Hit dumbass up for a new board.

#10 3 years ago

Great choice to use DumbAss ' board. I'm very confident those boards are made with much dedication.

Before you power up the machine with new board, be sure the tieback wire is correct installed !

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

Great choice to use DumbAss ' board. I'm very confident those boards are made with much dedication.
Before you power up the machine with new board, be sure the tieback wire is correct installed !

Will do my friend. I may have to hit you up with some questions about the tie back when I get to that point. Thanks again!!

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