(Topic ID: 276048)

Dirty Harry - burned connector

By Rdkleine

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Don_C
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

1A7B5FB9-F8FE-4F24-83C5-B9F0AF6CC7B2 (resized).jpeg
B6B278CE-2FA1-4EA0-9ADE-2A9A2EB956CB (resized).jpeg
IMG_6157 (resized).jpeg
0D6C7E01-4F95-4F65-819D-3C9D616290F5 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6105 (resized).jpeg

#1 3 years ago

Hi all,

My son was playing the machine and then the flippers stopped (and bumpers etc) the switches seemed to work so I checked the back panel cabinet (see attachment). The connected burned out apparently.

My experience with pinball maintenance is limited to some simple soldering work and replacing simple parts. So bear with me
If I've replaced the connector are there other usual suspects to check out or will this likely be the problem.

Thanks!

IMG_6105 (resized).jpegIMG_6105 (resized).jpeg
#2 3 years ago

That looks like Pin 10 on connector J-120.
Not related to your current issues.
That pin is for the GI lighting. Those tend to burn over time from being constantly on when the game is running.
See pages 3-28 and 3-29 in the manual to confirm that.

Have you checked your fuses with a multimeter yet?
One may be blown but still appear good.

#3 3 years ago

Ok will check the fuses and look further for other pointers thanks.

You are right. I've looked back some assembly photo's from a few weeks ago when I've purchased and moved the machine. This connector was a bit black from what I can see.

Edit 3: found a blown fuse F112 - 220v 7A

0D6C7E01-4F95-4F65-819D-3C9D616290F5 (resized).jpeg0D6C7E01-4F95-4F65-819D-3C9D616290F5 (resized).jpeg

2 weeks later
#4 3 years ago

After spending seven 7amp fuses I have found a problem in the diode bridge. One of the four internal diodes gave 0 ohm both ways so it shorted the F112 fuse out. Waiting for the replacement diode bridge to arrive.

Diode bridge MB352WDiode bridge MB352W

#5 3 years ago

Looks like you pulled the pads off the top of the board as well they seem to be on that rectifier, so you will have to repair the board too or use jumper wires.

#6 3 years ago

It looks worse than it is. The diode bridge came in today, soldered it into place and Dirty Harry is back

B6B278CE-2FA1-4EA0-9ADE-2A9A2EB956CB (resized).jpegB6B278CE-2FA1-4EA0-9ADE-2A9A2EB956CB (resized).jpeg
#7 3 years ago

Today received the new diode bridge soldered it into place.
Dirty Harry is back

1A7B5FB9-F8FE-4F24-83C5-B9F0AF6CC7B2 (resized).jpeg1A7B5FB9-F8FE-4F24-83C5-B9F0AF6CC7B2 (resized).jpeg

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Looks like you pulled the pads off the top of the board as well they seem to be on that rectifier, so you will have to repair the board too or use jumper wires.

I’ve soldered the bridge both sides. Think this will cause troubles down the road?

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdkleine:

I’ve soldered the bridge both sides. Think this will cause troubles down the road?

Nope, only if someone else needs to remove it.

#10 3 years ago

snip out bridges with a small set of side cutters, then it's easy to remove the leg stubs with no damage.

Don C.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 45.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
From: $ 1.00
Boards
Slap Save Creations
Boards

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dirty-harry-burned-connector and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.