(Topic ID: 134304)

Dirty Harry - bunch of weird problems

By miker_70

8 years ago


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  • 75 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by miker_70
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There are 75 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 8 years ago

I posted earlier for the initial problem here - DMD was frozen. I remedied that by reseating 80% of the connectors. Everything was going fine, I played for about an hour, then the sound disappeared. I restarted the machine and it was fine again.

So just tonight the problems were:
DMD frozen
No Sound
Lost ball / unable to locate / searching (this happened a lot)
Error for R. Flipper E.O.S
Started immediately into multiball on new game

I did a factory reset, which helped for a bit but the gremlins got at it again..

I know, or I think I know, it's a connection problem..but how to figure out what connection? Seems to be all over the map?

Some background - I just got the game last night. Transported 5 hours in the back of my pickup and jostled it around a bit getting it into my basement (nothing major, but it was moved). The previous owner assures me that the DMD is new, and there were no errors when he got it ready for sale.

Any thoughts would be welcomed

#2 8 years ago

I'd start again by reseating ALL the connectors on the CPU, DMD driver, DMD, sound and driver boards, especially the ribbon cable. Then reseat the connectors on the opto driver board under the playfield as well as the trough receiver and transmitter boards. As far as the EOS error, look to make sure the switch is properly gapped or a wire hasn't broken off.

#3 8 years ago

Could be cracked header pins after reseating Should reflow them all, it will solve a lot of headaches.

#4 8 years ago

i had issues like this after moving my DH down some stairs....
basically the game was acting crazy.

i had to push on the big square IC chip on the CPU.

hope that helps.

m.

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from aveamike:

i had issues like this after moving my DH down some stairs....
basically the game was acting crazy.
i had to push on the big square IC chip on the CPU.
hope that helps.
m.

Thanks, I'll try that later.

Quoted from schudel5:

I'd start again by reseating ALL the connectors on the CPU, DMD driver, DMD, sound and driver boards, especially the ribbon cable. Then reseat the connectors on the opto driver board under the playfield as well as the trough receiver and transmitter boards. As far as the EOS error, look to make sure the switch is properly gapped or a wire hasn't broken off.

Thanks, I'll give it another go. I didn't try reseating the connectors on the opto board underneath..that makes sense.

I'm hoping I can avoid a reflow. I know this is probably the best thing to do, but I'm pretty new to pinball/soldering and it seems like a hugely daunting task.

#6 8 years ago

at least you know the problem is in the back box.

#7 8 years ago

Get comfortable with reflowing the pins very soon. You will need it.

That's a problem I noticed basically on all machines.
Just today I reflowed the Mansion light board on TAF. Half of the lights stopped working because of two cracked pins (first and last).

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from miker_70:

I know this is probably the best thing to do, but I'm pretty new to pinball/soldering and it seems like a hugely daunting task.

It is not.

Quoted from ALY:

Get comfortable with reflowing the pins very soon. You will need it.
That's a problem I noticed basically on all machines.

Listen to ALY, it's going to happen.

#9 8 years ago

How do you test for cold solder joint?

#10 8 years ago
Quoted from miker_70:

How do you test for cold solder joint?

You look at it, make a guess, and reflow some solder. This video is not the best, but is very voyeuristic which excites me

Good picture you can see from Vid
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2#post-962763

#11 8 years ago

Thanks, and good to know about your electronics fetish..

However, I was wondering if there's a way to test before removing the boards? With a multimeter?

#12 8 years ago
Quoted from miker_70:

However, I was wondering if there's a way to test before removing the boards? With a multimeter?

Ha, we've all been wishing for a way to test the back of the boards with a DMM without removing them forever
Rip it out, start re-flowing some solder, put it back in and test it. It's not the most pleasent thing, but it doesn't take that long.

EDIT: Or to put it another way, the issue with bad solder connections is they are hurting the continuity betwixed the back of your board, and the front pins, that connect to the rest of the game. Thus, they must be removed.

#13 8 years ago

Dude, I told you the correct things to do in your original thread.

Listen and learn.

#14 8 years ago
Quoted from Taxman:

Dude, I told you the correct things to do in your original thread.
Listen and learn.

You did, thanks. And I tried that, short of reflowing the solder. I tried it again just now - I reseated ALL the ribbon cables coming off the DMD driver board, as well as where they connected to the flipper board.

Now when I power on the flippers are engaged. Excellent! ...and still no display

Fuck it. Tomorrow I'll reflow the DMD driver board. I have a feeling my flipper board is pooched? ...or why are my flippers engaged

Quoted from TheLaw:

EDIT: Or to put it another way, the issue with bad solder connections is they are hurting the continuity betwixed the back of your board, and the front pins, that connect to the rest of the game. Thus, they must be removed.

Betwixed! I'm feeling very betwixed right now..

Thanks everyone

#15 8 years ago

Betwixed

I need to use that more often.

#16 8 years ago

You're not going to believe this. I don't believe it..and I certainly don't understand it. So PLEASE if someone can shed some light..or let me know where else I should look, I would be so grateful.

Here's the deal:
I reflowed the main header pins on the DMD driver board. No problem. That WAS easy - why did I doubt you guys!

I got a new fliptronic board today, and put that in. (other errors with flippers..the original board was hacked..thought I should replace)

I plugged in the game and prayed.

I flipped the switch - and sadly, the display was still a mess. It was better, but still had vertical lines running through it. I ran a test report which came back with a few problems - the right ramp make was stuck, the ball trough 2 was issuing an error, and R Flipper EOS was back.

I switched it off and swore. A lot.

When it came back on the error report wasn't as long...but the display was still messed up.

I played a game. The game went into multiball right away. I don't know the rules that well, but I know it shouldn't have done that so quickly. Then it drained and fired 2 balls back into the shooter lane instead of 1. Then the next ball 1 went to the gun and it launched another ball into the playfield.

Jesus. Completely screwy.

Ok, I thought..what was the first thing I did when I got the game home? The next day I switched the balls. The balls that were in there were dirty and gross...

But there's no way...that won't make a difference...but it's worth a try right? ...so I switched the balls back.

Everything - EVERYTHING is fine. The display is fine, I've played a few games and there doesn't seem to be any problems, the sound is fine..everything. I'll play some more and see for sure but it seems good.

So. Seriously. WTF?? Balls?!?! DH takes normal 1 1/16 standard pinballs no? I don't get it? I'm going to look around to see if anyone has ever had a similar issue..but it must be something else right?...it just doesn't make sense.

#17 8 years ago

W....T....F??? Wow that's a new one. Although pins do suspiciously fix themselves to make you happy, and then pull the same garbage after to make you cry again. DH uses standard balls which I have always heard can get magnetized over time and fresh balls will help with some issues. I haven't heard them related to this issue but crazy shit happens all the time with these things.

The way things have been going for me lately, I'm big on the 12v being low and having to jumper the power board. So if this starts going on the fritz again, keep that in mind. 12v in my Pin Magic was low causing my DMD to go out etc. Diff'rent systems for sure, but just keep it in your back pocket. HOPEFULLY you wont need it.

Now finally get some drinks and kick back with some DH on a Friday. Oh and get some hotdogs.

#18 8 years ago

Gah thought I was in the clear.

The sound cut out. "Sound board interface error". I get the beep on power, but no sound. Also says "sound error" SY 3.35 ..then a date

Anyone know where i should start?

#19 8 years ago

Ha...as I said right before, get in with your DMM and test the volatages on the power board. If your levels are too low, it can casue a wide variety of issues like we're seeing here. "How can this all be related" I've said a million times...power is one of the answers.

#20 8 years ago

Try all new ribbon cables. They fixed a bunch of wierd issues I was having with my judge Dredd.

#21 8 years ago

go into switch test mode

sounds like a lot of optos not registering.

#22 8 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Ha...as I said right before, get in with your DMM and test the volatages on the power board. If your levels are too low, it can casue a wide variety of issues like we're seeing here. "How can this all be related" I've said a million times...power is one of the answers.

Sorry...still a newb...how do I do this? What voltages am I looking for? Where am I testing?

Thanks for the help and advice

#23 8 years ago
Quoted from scott_freeman:

go into switch test mode
sounds like a lot of optos not registering.

Thanks, I'm going to check. After all this other nonsense, I never did check this stuff

#24 8 years ago
Quoted from RampShot11:

Try all new ribbon cables. They fixed a bunch of wierd issues I was having with my Judge Dredd.

I think you're on to something here - just reseated both flat ribbon cables and everything is fine again. It makes sense..in both the DMD issue and this one, the ribbon cables were moved/adjusted. Plus, it's the cheapest option

#25 8 years ago

Alright...had a party last night, so I decided to leave the game on as I know it would get a lot of use...so it's been on for about 24hrs. This morning all the issues were back - the DMD was all messed up / vertical lines etc. The sound was gone, the left flipper will not stay engaged / double hits.

I ordered new ribbon cables (which apparently is a hot item..sold out everywhere)

..we'll see. I'm not sure what else I should try while I wait for these. I'd like to take some readings on the power board but not sure how - if someone could let me know how/what I should look for I'd appreciate it.

Thanks
Mike

#26 8 years ago

Great Plains Electric has all four in stock. Where did u order from?

#27 8 years ago

Also, if you have another WPC pin , you could temporarily try the ribbon cables from that machine.

#28 8 years ago

Unfortunately, I don't have another WPC,

I was going to get them from GPE, but Ed told me he was out of the 34 pin plugs for the set. I ordered them all from Bay Area

#29 8 years ago

Did you get the new ribbon cables yet?

#30 8 years ago

No..freaking taking forever....haven't been home yet, hopefully there's mail!

#31 8 years ago

Still no delivery ?

#32 8 years ago

Got it today...and she's working good! We'll see tomorrow but seems like it fixed that issue. The DMD is working fine now, and no sound board interface error. I only replaced the one cable - the longest one. I may replace the rest, but I'm thinking if it ain't broke...

Now I just have a couple of switch errors and I think that's it. I'm going to check the trough optos tomorrow - I think maybe one isn't working

Thanks again for all the help
M

#33 8 years ago

Aaaaaand, I spoke too soon. I woke up this morning and fired her up. Same problem. Well, no..the "sound board interface error" is still absent thankfully but the DMD is all messed up. The DMD starts all screwy, then it kind of works itself out, then it goes all screwy again. I still think it's a connection, but now i'm at a loss of how to figure out what connection and what to do.

I will replace the rest of the cables as a start. Then I don't really know. I suppose I could reflow solder on all the other boards? Is there anything else I can do first?

#34 8 years ago

The DMD issue may be a failing HV section on the DMD driver board or a weak display. Too bad you don't have another WPC game to do a switcheroo. Is the display garbled showing jibberish? Or is it showing the correct screens but just kinda fading in and out (weak display)?

#35 8 years ago

Hey thanks for the reply..ya, I wish I had another WPC too

The guy that sold me that machine tells me the display is new - he just replaced it a month ago or something. I trust him..I think...haha..I mean, he doesn't really have any reason to lie, he's got my $$.

Anyway, the display is garbled. It comes and goes - it may stay fine for a few minutes, then the next screen it gets all garbled again. If I reseat that long cable it's fine for a while -- last night it was fine. I played for a couple of hours and shut it off/on a few times to make sure..weird.

#36 8 years ago

did you put too many new pinballs in the machine and when you put the old ones back in put the correct amount in?

#37 8 years ago

as far as the dmd, switch with another one and see if the dmd is bad or if the dmd board is bad.

#38 8 years ago

lol..uhm..yeah, I put the right amount of balls in (4).

Quoted from horriblehager:

as far as the dmd, switch with another one and see if the dmd is bad or if the dmd board is bad.

As I mentioned a few times - I don't have another WPC DMD. Maybe you can send one over?

#39 8 years ago

I think the ball thing was a fluke / coincidence. Although, last night when I thought everything was fine I replaced the balls again, and the ball search problem reared it's ugly head. I think that's an opto problem..I don't know why it works fine with old balls versus new ones though

#40 8 years ago

You could pull the DMD out of Monopoly and put it in DH. Doing that though is a PITA with a Stern game as everything, but the HV, is attached to the back of the display in a circuit board sandwich. That would only tell you that the display is good and only if the HV section of DH driver board is good. As far as knowing if the HV board on DH is good you are SOL.

If the display is garbled it may be the logic section of the driver board or a ribbon cable.

#41 8 years ago

Cool thanks...I'll try the cables out first before switching the monopoly display - like you said, it would only answer part of the question.

I have all the new cables, but only replaced the one...I'll do the rest and see.

Where/how do I identify the logic section of the driver board?

#42 8 years ago

Alright..couldn't take it, had to go home at lunch and replace the rest of the cables. Although it's still early to tell - everything is good again. The real test will be tonight when I go home to see if it's still fine.

I need to figure out this ball trough problem next. I think the balls are getting physically stuck. When I was playing, I noticed that I could see the balls backed up in the trough. When the game started searching, I shook the machine and they fell into place. I still find it weird that the old balls don't have this problem, but I'll try tonight to clear any debris that may be lodged in there or something.

#43 8 years ago

the new balls are getting magnetized. The old balls may be the ones that dont get magnetized. In dirty harry the balls get magnetized quickly if you use the ramp skill shot alot, which most people do. I have a plastic insert that goes in the trough so that the balls dont get hung up anymore.

#44 8 years ago
Quoted from Jdawg4422:

the new balls are getting magnetized. The old balls may be the ones that dont get magnetized. In Dirty Harry the balls get magnetized quickly if you use the ramp skill shot alot, which most people do. I have a plastic insert that goes in the trough so that the balls dont get hung up anymore.

Yes, definitely get the plastic trough insert, it helps big time. But when you put the plastic insert in the trough, put a piece of blue painters tape on the end to stop it from sliding back out. Mine would always back out after a few games until I added the tape.
Also, remeber there are 2 ribbon cables that go from the DMD board so it could have been either one that was bad, or both for that matter.
I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

#45 8 years ago

Divots in the trough are common on these games and will cause that behavior too, although that should affect both new and old balls the same.

#46 8 years ago

Success!!! I've been playing (and fiddling) for like 3 hours and the DMD issue is gonzo! The ribbon replacement did the trick.

The ball thing. Yeah, insert eh? I'll try that. I studied that stupid trough for the better of an hour...just letting the machine empty the trough / refill. They typically get stuck when there is 3 or less...weight i guess...and they get stuck about 1/3rd of the way from the end. I've seen the magnetize theory tossed around - I'll definitely try an insert, but the thing is when I first tried this they were completely new balls. I can't imagine they would get magnetized that fast. Even now, I've really only used them for a dozen games or so. Also, why wouldn't the other balls get magnetized? Weird.

Did you make this insert or buy it?

Thanks everyone..I seriously doubt I would even own a pin if I didn't have access to this community. You guys are great!

Mike

#47 8 years ago

Hey I have a question regarding the magnetized ball thing. I have a Grand Lizard. It has 2 magnets, but I've never had an issue with magnetized balls. Why not?

Also, I have one other issue with DH - the switch on the right ramp "switch 38 - right ramp make". Can someone tell me how you test these? I guess this is an opto? Is it typically the receiver or the sender that goes? Do I need to replace both - like is it a married pair?

Thanks

#48 8 years ago
Quoted from miker_70:

Also, I have one other issue with DH - the switch on the right ramp "switch 38 - right ramp make". Can someone tell me how you test these? I guess this is an opto? Is it typically the receiver or the sender that goes? Do I need to replace both - like is it a married pair?

Put the game in switch edge test. Pass your finger through and see if the game beeps. If not look for a broken wire off the solder pad on one or the other optos. There are two wires that go to each opto. Also, these can have cracked solder joints, so reflow the solder where the optos are soldered to the board.

You can test the receiver (dark tinted) by shining a bright flashlight into it during switch edge test. The transmitter (pink tinted) you can look at with your cell phone set to camera. It should look like it's lit up when you view it on your screen. It's typically the transmitter that fails. They are not matched, just get a new opto of whichever one is bad. Pinball Life sells them:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=19&pg=1

All at the bottom of the page.

#49 8 years ago

pull out that trough and smooth down the pivots with emery cloth. I think I've had to do this with all my old beat up WPC machines. also, like RampShot suggests, you can place a plastic ball guide on the bottom of the trough, I've done this as well. If its not your trough, its the trough optos like schudel suggest. good luck eh?

#50 8 years ago
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:

If its not your trough, its the trough optos like schudel suggest. good luck eh?

I don't think it's the optos - I can see the balls getting physically stuck in the trough. There aren't any divots in the trough that I can see, and I've cleaned out any debris. It's gotta be the magnet thing...it just has to!

Quoted from schudel5:

Put the game in switch edge test. Pass your finger through and see if the game beeps. If not look for a broken wire off the solder pad on one or the other optos. There are two wires that go to each opto. Also, these can have cracked solder joints, so reflow the solder where the optos are soldered to the board.
You can test the receiver (dark tinted) by shining a bright flashlight into it during switch edge test. The transmitter (pink tinted) you can look at with your cell phone set to camera. It should look like it's lit up when you view it on your screen. It's typically the transmitter that fails. They are not matched, just get a new opto of whichever one is bad. Pinball Life sells them:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=19&pg=1
All at the bottom of the page.

Thanks for the info. I'll try this tonight

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