(Topic ID: 221851)

Diner Restoration

By Mneubey

5 years ago


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  • 174 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by d0n
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

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There are 174 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 4.
#51 4 years ago

Nice job ! Keep a eye on HEP,s forum
I sent a Diner / Earth Shaker to be done
Love system 11 games !

#52 4 years ago

Let me also just remind everyone just how disgusting the original cab was. Notice the slick spray foam fix in the corner. Pretty sure this thing should be classified as a biohazard. Big thanks to my friend Matt (smokeandlights) you are the man!

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#53 4 years ago

The old cabinet is super crusty. If anyone is thinking if trying to do this, I'd recommend the following tools:

Table saw

Planer joiner and/or dado stack for table saw
circular saw

Router (we used a flush trim bit, a 1/2" channel bit (flat bottomed), and a slot cutting bit)

Saw cutting guide that can be used with the router (we used this when I realized I didn't have a dado plate for my table saw) We used a level and clamps.

A drill and bits, especially a bit for making entrance holes for the flush trim router bit. We used a 1/2" bit for this, but a 3/4”bit would have been better. Various sizes for making the small holes for the coin door, transformer, backbox hinges, etc.

Pneumatic narrow crown stapler, compressor, and Staples

Wood glue

Saw horses

Chalk line or 6' straight edge

Pencil, measuring tape.

Hammer, prybar

We tried to stay as faithful to the original cabinet as possible. 2 things come to mind that were slight deviations from the original:

The corner joints have a joint that I couldn't quite recreate or identify. It's something like a rabbet with an additional tongue and groove. We went with a rabbet.

The top of the coin door is beveled to match the angle of the glass. I didn't realize I missed this until we were fitting things together, and I don't think it will matter at all, as it will be under the lock bar, and is very minor.

1 month later
#54 4 years ago

I finally put the playfield up on my rotisserie and have started the process of repopulating the playfield. I've kinda put myself at a disadvantage by waiting a few years, so essentially this thing is like a giant jigsaw puzzle. I was able to find some of the pics from tear down, but I think repopulating the top of the PF is gonna suck pretty bad. Overall, repopulating the bottom isn't as big of a deal as I'd anticipated - every once in a while, it requires a bit of detective work, but I like the challenge at this point.

Thankfully, a year or so ago, I'd started tumbling and hand polishing each individual part, so there's not much I have to do with brackets and all, and that's typically my absolute least favorite part. I did realize when I ordered a pile of stuff a few years ago, I ordered the wrong lamp bases for pretty much everything, so unfortunately I am literally paying for it now. So far, I've replaced all of the GI sockets, and am waiting on a large Pinball Life order that should come in tomorrow with a pile of other parts I'm going to need.

For reference, here's the correct 44 bulb socket for GI - The Pinball Resource has them (and now pinball life), the item number is:

A11905 - #44/#47 wms/bally mini bayonet sockets
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#55 4 years ago

I think I still have all my tear down pics from my resto if you need anything.

#56 4 years ago

I also have mine from the PF swap I did.

#57 4 years ago

Thanks guys! I am pretty much certain i will be hitting you up for those

3 weeks later
#58 4 years ago

All I can say is WOW! That used to be my game for a short period. The pics were taken in my arcade.

I bought it from my small engine repair guy. He got it from a customer who said it sat on their covered porch for years. The damage / insurance payout was a story someone after us, made up. Why? who knows? It was out of the rain but definitely still IN the weather. Everything was warped on that game! I knew I couldn't bring it back so I flipped it for a quick and small profit. The guy that bought it from me promised to email or msg me progress pics but never did. It seems that he flipped it for a small profit too.

It sounds like you got it from the guy I got it from? It went through 3 quick flips in less than a week. LOL I'm glad it ended up with you because you are doing the game justice! If you ever sell it, we'd love to have it back in our arcade at www.oasisarcadeairbnb.com

#59 4 years ago

Haha, I'm really glad you found this thread. I was going to hit you up when I made a little more progress,but the progress had been so slow over the last couple of years due to other projects coming in and jumping in front of it. I'm the guy that bought it from the guy that bought it from you (I actually was the guy that picked it up, the original buyer never actually picked the game up), and you are the guy I'm referencing as the original seller in the story in the first post. I'm really glad you chimed in and set the story straight, since I was literally telling a guy about it this evening, and couldn't really recall the exact details. Hope you enjoy, I was literally going to contact you as soon as I started populating the top of the playfield. This thing has been a super insane difficulty level restoration, but I'm really excited to eventually finish it.

Quoted from d0n:

All I can say is WOW! That used to be my game for a short period. The pics were taken in my arcade.
I bought it from my small engine repair guy. He got it from a customer who said it sat on their covered porch for years. The damage / insurance payout was a story someone after us, made up. Why? who knows? It was out of the rain but definitely still IN the weather. Everything was warped on that game! I knew I couldn't bring it back so I flipped it for a quick and small profit. The guy that bought it from me promised to email or msg me progress pics but never did. It seems that he flipped it for a small profit too.
It sounds like you got it from the guy I got it from? It went through 3 quick flips in less than a week. LOL I'm glad it ended up with you because you are doing the game justice! If you ever sell it, we'd love to have it back in our arcade at www.oasisarcadeairbnb.com

#60 4 years ago

Its great to see it coming along. Not many people would have attempted, let alone finished... that restoration. That game was CRUSTY!

#61 4 years ago

Wow, that's some project, Gonna be Nice when your done. Awesome job so far !!!!

3 weeks later
#62 4 years ago

Hey all! Since the world has essentially stopped, I have a bit more time to focus on hitting the gas on this Diner project. I pretty much have finished everything on the bottom of the playfield - pretty much everything has meticulously cleaned or replaced. There are a few parts that I was unable to populate due to my rotisserie covering the spots, but I'll deal with that at the end.

Just the other day, I started with the topside. The pop bumpers are always the first thing I tackle, and even though I have done this a good amount of times, I always do something stupid when assembling the pops - everything said and done, it just amounted to a waste of a little bit of time, but onto the next thing. I had to order a bunch of posts that had broken off while disassembling everything, but considering it was 2.5 years ago, I'm doing my best to avoid having to order multiple times by over ordering everything. Essentially when you do a teardown on a machine that is in this condition, it's pretty common for the posts to freeze and snap off the t-nut.

Looking to refinish, and populate the rails next. Just need to locate a decent before pic to make sure I have them all.

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#63 4 years ago

Looks great!

Are you putting in LEDs?

#64 4 years ago

Thanks!! I’m old school, I’m gonna stick with incandescent bulbs for this guy.

#65 4 years ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Thanks!! I’m old school, I’m gonna stick with incandescent bulbs for this guy.

I had incandescent #47's in after my last big Diner shop job.

I put in new plastic set and the bulbs warped my new plastics.

I have since put in all sunlight color 2smd frosted from comet and replaced the plastics again.
The 2smd frosted bulbs have the same bright white as a #44.

The game looks amazing and.....no heat to kill my plastics.

So, be careful about those old school #44 or #47 bulbs, they are really hot!

#66 4 years ago

Good advice. I may have to consider it

#67 4 years ago

Just a quick (and less significant update) ... The metal from the playfield is super pitted and gross, so I've been slowing working my way up on the topside. This is what an hour and a half gets you on this example apparently. Sheesh, there's a long way to go, most of the metal looks like the before pic.

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#68 4 years ago

Just another quick update. I pretty much designated a night to each of these sections, which I don't mind doing, because what else are we all going to do at this time? Each part took at least an hour and a half to finish. I started with 3M scratch pads and brasso to remove the crud, and step sanded the metal with 220 grit to 330 grit sandpaper to help remove any pitting, went back to the brasso and scratch pad, and finished by throwing each part in the tumbler over night.
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#69 4 years ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Just another quick update. I pretty much designated a night to each of these sections, which I don't mind doing, because what else are we all going to do at this time? Each part took at least an hour and a half to finish. I started with 3M scratch pads and brasso to remove the crud, and step sanded the metal with 220 grit to 330 grit sandpaper to help remove any pitting, went back to the brasso and scratch pad, and finished by throwing each part in the tumbler over night.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work!

#70 4 years ago

A few more -

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#71 4 years ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Just another quick update. I pretty much designated a night to each of these sections, which I don't mind doing, because what else are we all going to do at this time? Each part took at least an hour and a half to finish. I started with 3M scratch pads and brasso to remove the crud, and step sanded the metal with 220 grit to 330 grit sandpaper to help remove any pitting, went back to the brasso and scratch pad, and finished by throwing each part in the tumbler over night.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

WOW ...just WOW! I'm truly blown away by your attention to detail. A game that many people would have parted out and then lit what was left on fire... you're restoring to better than new. Amazing. You are definitely a masochist! LOL

I understand "old school" but I think that game would really benefit from having all LEDs. You're never going to have a better chance to swap them out. "Bendies" work so well for those insert bulbs (flashers too!). All the light is focused up and through the insert instead if 3/4 of it back into the cabinet.

I would love to own this if you ever decide to sell it.

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#72 4 years ago

Thanks for the encouragement and advice all, much appreciated! Since I have a ton of extra time now that I can/have to work at home, I am making some steady progress. I just wanted to share some horror pics from what I'd been dealing with this last week.

Just in case anyone was wondering, (and because I personally always enjoy reading about different approaches) the process I use for cleaning these post studs is to put each individual part in my drill, and hold a piece of sandpaper around it. I start with 100 grit, and work my way up to 330 - then use a scour pad with brasso, and then a cloth. Most of the time it's a pretty quick process, but sometimes with the extra rusty ones, it takes a while. A few of the posts I had to replace because they broke off in the T-nut when I disassembled the playfield. BTW, The hardware in pic 3 is nowhere near the worst of what I've been dealing with.

I am just trying to get most of the metal hardware cleaned and placed, and am putting in an order for parts that need to be replaced, including a new set of lane guides. Hoping I don't end up missing anything major. As you can see by the last pic, I have my work cut out for me. BTW - Thanks to Tomass and Leeb18509 for the teardown pics (I don't think I could do it without your help), and Freeplay40 for the advice on what to do with the ramp in the last pic.

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#73 4 years ago

Quick update ... Making some good progress. I think I have all of the metal ball guides re-grained, and almost all of the rusty and pitted hardware looking new. Here are a few before and after, and a quick overview of what everything currently looks like. I'm a bit nervous that I'm missing a couple of metal parts for the cash register ramp, but I'm sure it's just a matter of searching around in the garage. I hate that I waited 2.5 years to really get into this one, it's the right amount of time to lose stuff.

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#74 4 years ago

This particular part was one of my biggest worries, but turned out great. I also ordered the material to make new ramp flaps, so looking forward to figuring that out shortly. Thankfully after spending some time in the garage the other day, i found all of the parts I was missing for the Playfield.

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#75 4 years ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

This particular part was one of my biggest worries, but turned out great. I also ordered the material to make new ramp flaps, so looking forward to figuring that out shortly. Thankfully after spending some time in the garage the other day, i found all of the parts I was missing for the Playfield.[quoted image][quoted image]

#76 4 years ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

This particular part was one of my biggest worries, but turned out great. I also ordered the material to make new ramp flaps, so looking forward to figuring that out shortly. Thankfully after spending some time in the garage the other day, i found all of the parts I was missing for the Playfield.[quoted image][quoted image]

What on Earth was the black gunk? It looked like corrosion like the blue flap had.

#77 4 years ago

No clue, it was basically like rust on the metal, but came off the decal perfectly. I used masking tape and an exact-o knife to cover and cut out the decal, and used a scouring pad and brasso to clean up the metal. Whatever it was, it was gross!

Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

What on Earth was the black gunk? It looked like corrosion like the blue flap had.

#78 4 years ago

Awesome work there mate!

#79 4 years ago

Thanks again for the support all! I've really been on a roll with this thing, so please excuse the 10 thousand updates.

I love that there is always a ton of new stuff to learn with each restore, and one of the things I've never had to do up to this point is to create new ramp flaps. Anything that I hadn't done before is always a bit intimidating, but I'm happy to report that I think I came out ok. Thanks to Freeplay40 for all of the great tips.

My process was to scan what I had of the ramp flaps, and create a vector image in Inkscape, import them into my Silhouette vinyl cutter, and printed a template that I stuck on the material. I used tin snips to cut around the vinyl, a hole punch to create the holes, and used a sander to smooth the edges out.

I didn't have anything except the corner of the bottom of the cash register flap, so I really didn't have a reference to go by. I pretty much eyeballed what was out there, and just created a shape that seems to be about right.
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#80 4 years ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Thanks again for the support all! I've really been on a roll with this thing, so please excuse the 10 thousand updates.
I love that there is always a ton of new stuff to learn with each restore, and one of the things I've never had to do up to this point is to create new ramp flaps. Anything that I hadn't done before is always a bit intimidating, but I'm happy to report that I think I came out ok. Thanks to Freeplay40 for all of the great tips.
My process was to scan what I had of the ramp flaps, and create a vector image in Inkscape, import them into my Silhouette vinyl cutter, and printed a template that I stuck on the material. I used tin snips to cut around the vinyl, a hole punch to create the holes, and used a sander to smooth the edges out.
I didn't have anything except the corner of the bottom of the cash register flap, so I really didn't have a reference to go by. I pretty much eyeballed what was out there, and just created a shape that seems to be about right.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great!!!!

#81 4 years ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Thanks again for the support all! I've really been on a roll with this thing, so please excuse the 10 thousand updates.
I love that there is always a ton of new stuff to learn with each restore, and one of the things I've never had to do up to this point is to create new ramp flaps. Anything that I hadn't done before is always a bit intimidating, but I'm happy to report that I think I came out ok. Thanks to Freeplay40 for all of the great tips.
My process was to scan what I had of the ramp flaps, and create a vector image in Inkscape, import them into my Silhouette vinyl cutter, and printed a template that I stuck on the material. I used tin snips to cut around the vinyl, a hole punch to create the holes, and used a sander to smooth the edges out.
I didn't have anything except the corner of the bottom of the cash register flap, so I really didn't have a reference to go by. I pretty much eyeballed what was out there, and just created a shape that seems to be about right.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Really nice!

#82 4 years ago

Since the cash register and ramp were in the area that had the most moisture damage, this was the most challenging part of the Playfield as a whole. The cash box itself had some rust and pitting, so I had to completely sand and repaint. I was lucky enough a while ago to grab a set of decals from a guy in pinside, so I was able to just replace each of them. Next up is probably populating the rest of the plastics on the Playfield before putting the new ramps together.

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#83 4 years ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Thanks!! I’m old school, I’m gonna stick with incandescent bulbs for this guy.

I was not a fan of LED's but found and used these in one of my early WPC restorations. These (in warm white) really are close to the feel of incandescents, but brighter. And no issues with heat damage, over use of power draw, etc.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/faceted-bulbs

Recommend then highly for guys (like myself) who like the "feel" of incandescents more than the sterile vibe you get from alot of LED's

EDIT: I should clarify, I used these in the GI. And color matched 2SMD frosted in the inserts. Very happy with results.

#84 4 years ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Since the cash register and ramp were in the area that had the most moisture damage, this was the most challenging part of the Playfield as a whole. The cash box itself had some rust and pitting, so I had to completely sand and repaint. I was lucky enough a while ago to grab a set of decals from a guy in pinside, so I was able to just replace each of them. Next up is probably populating the rest of the plastics on the Playfield before putting the new ramps together.[quoted image]

the game is coming together beautifully!

I hope mine comes out that well.

Im using comet frosted sunlight 2smd LEDs pretty much exclusively, as well as 5smd (#906) and 8smd (#89) flashers.

It looks crisp and bright, very similar to the original #44 bulbs when it was new.

Large inserts I use the dual flex head cool white.

Im using 4smd cool white on the DINER inserts but that might change with the new CPR playfield.

I dont color wash or color match inserts any more unless the game needs a spot of color here and there.
Color matching causes the playfield artwork to take on a brownish haze in most cases from too much color blending.

Im also using a LEDOCD board to control ghosting and flash fade rates. Its really worth it.

#85 4 years ago

amazing work!

#86 4 years ago

Thanks guys! As far as the leds go, I actually think we are all on the same page. I’m definitely familiar with the comet warm white 2 smds, They definitely are a great substitute for incandescent. I’m also personally just not a huge fan of color leds, which is a different animal. I’m not opposed to putting warm or sunlight in, it’ll probably just be at the end of the restoration if it happens. Keep the suggestions coming, they are much appreciated!!

#87 4 years ago

Congratulations , you deserve an applause
Dedication, skills and attention to detail can do wonders , as in this case .
Bravo !

#88 4 years ago

Just caught up with this....amazing work, I am glad you are bringing it back to life. I know a lot of people would have parted it out, but look at what you are going to have when it’s finished!

#89 4 years ago

Thanks again guys! Now for the ramps ... done

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#90 4 years ago

Haha, kidding of course. Just starting them

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#91 4 years ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Thanks again guys! Now for the ramps ... done [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you buy them new? Where?

#92 4 years ago

From marco (marcospecialties.com) I bought them a while back, but they are still in stock

#93 4 years ago

Some serious effort going into this project of yours, the want for Diner is strong with this one. I thought mine was a barn find project when I got it, but you win. Good job though, looks great!

#94 4 years ago

Wow, those old ramps look like they were used as ashtrays.

#95 4 years ago

Haha, I think the entire thing was used as an ashtray at the very least. It’s always best if the before pic is a complete nightmare though, then the after looks all that much better. Here it is with the ramps. Next thing I’m working on is the backboard with the jukebox.

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#96 4 years ago

Beautiful job - I miss my Diner. One of the prettiest games.

#97 4 years ago

What’s the plan for a cup?

#98 4 years ago

I ordered one from mike200mph today, so should have one by the weekend or Monday. Looking forward to it, my old one obviously sucked

Quoted from PNBLWZD:

What’s the plan for a cup?

#99 4 years ago

Cool. If your old one is just yellowed and not broken, consider trying the hydrogen peroxide soak in the sun trick for fun. It actually works to make plastic clear again.

#100 4 years ago

Thanks for the suggestion! I actually tried it for a week or so a while back and it lightened the shade of yellow, but i wasn’t able to clear it up unfortunately.

Quoted from PNBLWZD:

Cool. If your old one is just yellowed and not broken, consider trying the hydrogen peroxide soak in the sun trick for fun. It actually works to make plastic clear again.

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