I will be documenting the resto of my Diner machine here. It's a reimport, dirty as hell, and loose as a goose. But a good candidate for complete resto. I'm not sure yet if keeping or selling this machine when finished, but contact me if interested.
Starting point - I got this machine a couple years ago, kinda did a topside shop with new plastics, ramps, etc, so I could keep it in the lineup, as most everyone likes this game.
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Got my new CPR playfield a few weeks ago, so that got me motivated.

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Staring with the backbox. Emptied and sanded with 80 grit (orbital sander w/vac) to remove loose paint and raised grain.
Recessed a few screws at weak corners.
Almost ready for Bondo.

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While waiting for Bondo to cure, put the backbox harnesses into ultrasonic cleaner, rinsed, hung, and connectors dried with air compressor.

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Cabinet decals from Planetary are here.
I may take these to local vinyl sign shop and have laminated with a glossy clear. Not sure yet

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Backbox smoothed and primed.
Ready for some paint.

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I like this primer as it acts as filler as well.

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2 cans. Sand with 400 grit between and after each one.

Box painted. Will let cure for couple days.

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I really like PPG Breakthrough paint, satin black.
Super durable, water based, and I can spray it with an HVLP gun, with about 10% thinning with water.

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Lamp panel painted semi gloss white. Normally I just leave the old incandescent bulbs in place while painting, then replace with leds. Since I already had leds in here, I cut small pieces of foam to protect the contacts in the lamp bases.

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Thank you.
I happen to have a Taxi coming up next that will get the same treatment as this Diner.

Here's a quick run through of dry setting decals.
Cut to edge of print (they are oversized), lay on backbox and center. Once centered, cut notch for painters tape. Recheck msmnts for center.
One piece of tape at top, one halfway up one side.

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Peel backing off to the tape at side.

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Remove backing exposed (exacto)

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Lay that half down with squeegee.
I put soft latex tape on squeegee to avoid scratching.

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Peel backing off of top half, and do it again.
If u keep a tight roll at the surface like this, u will have zero bubbles. Takes a little practice, but doable. Just walk it along with squeegee, keeping tight roll.

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Cut edge with straight edge and exacto (about 1/8" in from edge) and grab a beer.
Now, all your prep work will be evident. Decals hide nothing.

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You don't want edge of decal exposed to handling at very edge. Yes, decal really sticky, once the glue cures, takes heat to remove.
Exacto cut edge is right at decal edge, so invisible. When using a new blade, very little pressure required.

Not sure what you are seeing, maybe a drilled hole for angled corner brace bolts?
Recessed screws filled and sanded earlier.

Not a bolt. That is a hole filled with Bondo and redrilled. Cannot have the old caved in holes from previous carriage bolts. Would wrinkle the new decal.

Thx.
Going to replace the MDF bottom in the cabinet. No chance this is gonna clean up as good as I want it.

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Playfield on the rotisserie, ready for disassembly.

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Lamp panel cleaned and painted, boards cleaned and put temporarily back in place (waiting on caps, etc.)

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Cabinet empty, going to cut the bottom off this thing.

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I cut it right at the top of the bottom panel, usually 3/4" up from bottom of cabinet edge.
That way, my new MDF panel will sit exactly how the old one did.

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This is a great time to fill, sand, and paint cabinet interior.
Then when I install new bottom, it will look sweet.

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3 coats of satin black later..
I set this on a scrap piece of MDF to show how nice this painted edge is going to look.

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I make an "L" shaped channel out of 3/4" plywood. Once I Bondo the outside, it will look original. Might have time to do that today.

$100 and I'll bring it to Bob's next Saturday.

Like this

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MDF is glued and stapled

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And L channel glued and pinned

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When you buy this pf from CPR, you are offered a backglass for $169.
Sold

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Bondo to conceal line at L channel

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Paint done. Can't wait to dress this box up.
Decals on Sunday.

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Glad to help.
Decal time. Cut to edge of print and lay on cabinet side. Keep consistent overhang (mine was 3/4"), check for design center, and tape in place with painters tape (only). Once decal isin right spot, I cut 3 notches to cabinet edge, and secure half the decal.

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Peel back the half of the decal not taped down

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Cut the backing out of the way

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Attach a straight edge to end of decal. This keeps the corners from flopping over and ruining your day.

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Keep a nice curl as you lay that thing down. Light squeegee as you go. Work from middle out. Slowly.

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Same deal on other half of decal.

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Mmm...grab a beer.

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Thx for letting me know. I hope it helps others to try. It's definitely not easy, but it is doable.
Going to let this set tonight, putting some legs on tomorrow

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Installing some cabinet parts. New side rails from Pinball Life, shooter assy, flipper buttons, etc

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Always use Stern style cabinet protectors. Cut and remove portion of decal about 1/8" to 1/4"
outside of the protector. This will make sure there is zero chance of wrinkled decals.

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Restoration decals from Treasure Cove are a nice touch.

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Contact pinsider Athens95. He does them.

Easy. 2 sided tape.
Getting the old ones off, a bit tougher. Heat gun and pry them off.

Power supply cap kit came today.
Big Daddy is my go to for these.

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$15 and 30 minutes of your time well spent.
Original caps are pushing 30 years old, and way past their expected service life.

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Reflow solder at every pin while board is out.

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It takes time to get a feel for whatever product you are using.
I have found that if you put less hardener, it is easier to work with. And it clogs up sandpaper way less.
Use a random orbit sander, start 80 grit, 120, primer
This is what I use now, because I can sand in 15 minutes. Love that.

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Not really. The length of thread is the same, and that is what is important. I'm not looking for structural help on the cabinet, I have that taken care of.

Burnt GI header pins replaced (thx snyper2099).
To show my gratitude, I hammered him on a few games of FG while he was here...that boy will never learn.

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Stripping old pf. Couple items to make reassembly easier.
Mark all harness mount screw holes with a dot. Helps to get harness reoriented on new pf. I leave the mounts on when harness cleaned, so this helps get the whole think close when putting it on the new pf.

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Any oddball shims, hardware, etc, gets ziptied together and location marked (on old pf).

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I leave 1/2" of wire when I clip coil and switch wires, just to make sure correct wires going back in correct spots.

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Harness out, will go into ultrasonic cleaner tomorrow.

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Sorry it wasn't clear. Wait til I clean the harness and install on the new pf. It will make sense then. I'll make sure.

A little side by side comparison.
Holy crap

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Playfield harness cleaned twice in ultrasonic, rinsed, blown with compressed air.
All under pf mechs getting the same.

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Nice touch that CPR didn't have to do.
Cnc'd the diner letters.
Here's the old pf

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And the new.
Sweet.

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Something I recommend doing whenever replacing playfield is temporarily install hinge mounts and lower hooks to make sure everything is right. Much easier to adjust now, rather than when this pf weighs 40 pounds more.

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Back panel of playfield looking crappy.
Heat gun to remove, one coat of satin black after, and looking good.
New decal available from Athens95.
Thankfully.

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Starting to populate pf with pops. I like the twist mounts. Gotta drill any new pf to fit. Clear coat will clog the hole.

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Tap them in just to the twist thread.

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And pull them down when u tighten the mounts from below.
Going to use some transparent skirts and bodies for a sexy look.

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There was 1 issue I was worried about with this resto...the coffee mug. Originals are yellowed terribly, and no peroxide or bleach treatment will help this type of plastic.
And once you put the old one up against a new playfield, it's just not right. And the new clear plastic below the cup makes it even worse.
And yeah, I hear someone is "gonna" make one, but I'm not going to stay in limbo for who knows how long waiting for that.

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So I'm painting mine white, like a diner coffee cup would probably be.
I like it, and will add the decals and auto clear coat it to give it a nice shine, and prevent ball trails inside.

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Exactly

Not goin there..

Progress up top- painted rails, rebuilt drop targets with decals, new rubber as I go

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Underside - All coils get new sleeves and wrappers, all mechs cleaned, just starting to place major stuff and rollover switches before harness goes back.

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Harness in place

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When harness is cleaned with heated degreaser, it loses its "memory" a little bit, so orienting it back to pf can be tough. I zip tie the mounts to the harness before I remove them. I marked all the holes when I took off harness mounts old pf. I then mark those same dimples on new pf to give me a good start to getting harness into correct position.
Hope that made sense..

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You got it.
Pops get full treatment. New caps, lamp holders, bodies, rings, skirts, springs, spoons, yokes, and sleeves. Makes all the difference in the world when u have fresh, tight pop bumpers on a classic game.

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Making good progress with top of pf. Need to take a few pieces back off, as I am waiting for cup, cash register decals.

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Cliffy protectors used at hole, left side of ramp, and inlane guides.

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After looking at these decals, I decided to paint this on my white cup. These standard decals seem too small for the size of the cup.
And they weren't exactly put on straight..

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I like it. And will clear over it tomorrow.

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Thanks, I appreciate that.
Putting alot into this one.

Apron repainted, new decals, available from pinsider Athens95.

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Everything wired up, putting pf back in the box tomorrow. Waiting for a couple register/jukebox decals, but they will go on when I get them.

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Fired up, needs a few SW adjustments.

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Thanks sodacrack and snyper for the help today, getting this machine into bsmt and hooked up.

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Still need speaker/display plastic.
But I am close to complete.

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Done did.