(Topic ID: 246550)

Diner Resto 2019

By Jjsmooth

4 years ago


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There are 153 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 4.
#51 4 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

How will you re-attach the lip you removed when cutting out the floor?

I make an "L" shaped channel out of 3/4" plywood. Once I Bondo the outside, it will look original. Might have time to do that today.

#52 4 years ago
Quoted from Brazy:

Nice thread J... looking good....$80 bucks and we'll take that eyesore of a slot out of your basement...hehehe

$100 and I'll bring it to Bob's next Saturday.

#53 4 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

$100 and I'll bring it to Bob's next Saturday.

Bob’s is gonna get wild. Don’t leave right after league. Just saying.

#54 4 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

How will you re-attach the lip you removed when cutting out the floor?

Like this

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#55 4 years ago

I assume gluing and screwing to keep that "L" nicely secured.

#56 4 years ago

MDF is glued and stapled

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#57 4 years ago

And L channel glued and pinned

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#58 4 years ago

When you buy this pf from CPR, you are offered a backglass for $169.
Sold

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#59 4 years ago

Dang so a legit backglass? Nice.

#60 4 years ago

This machine will be tight..... order up!

#61 4 years ago

Bondo to conceal line at L channel

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#62 4 years ago

Paint done. Can't wait to dress this box up.
Decals on Sunday.

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#63 4 years ago

Thanks for posting these. Someday I’d like to try a cab restore

#64 4 years ago

Glad to help.
Decal time. Cut to edge of print and lay on cabinet side. Keep consistent overhang (mine was 3/4"), check for design center, and tape in place with painters tape (only). Once decal isin right spot, I cut 3 notches to cabinet edge, and secure half the decal.

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#65 4 years ago

Peel back the half of the decal not taped down

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#66 4 years ago

Cut the backing out of the way

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#67 4 years ago

Attach a straight edge to end of decal. This keeps the corners from flopping over and ruining your day.

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#68 4 years ago

Keep a nice curl as you lay that thing down. Light squeegee as you go. Work from middle out. Slowly.

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#69 4 years ago

Same deal on other half of decal.

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#70 4 years ago

Mmm...grab a beer.

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#71 4 years ago

Fantastic!

Nice, easy to understand explanation.

#72 4 years ago

Thx for letting me know. I hope it helps others to try. It's definitely not easy, but it is doable.
Going to let this set tonight, putting some legs on tomorrow

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#73 4 years ago

Looks great, thanks for documenting...

#74 4 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Attach a straight edge to end of decal. This keeps the corners from flopping over and ruining your day.[quoted image]

loving the straight edge tip!

#75 4 years ago

Installing some cabinet parts. New side rails from Pinball Life, shooter assy, flipper buttons, etc

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#76 4 years ago

Always use Stern style cabinet protectors. Cut and remove portion of decal about 1/8" to 1/4"
outside of the protector. This will make sure there is zero chance of wrinkled decals.

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#77 4 years ago
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#78 4 years ago

Restoration decals from Treasure Cove are a nice touch.

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#79 4 years ago

Good advice about cutting decal a tad outside of protector.

#80 4 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Restoration decals from Treasure Cove are a nice touch.[quoted image]

Where did you find those on their website? That’s a great touch!!

#81 4 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Where did you find those on their website? That’s a great touch!!

Contact pinsider Athens95. He does them.

#82 4 years ago
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#83 4 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

New side rails

What's the install like for those?

#84 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

What's the install like for those?

Easy. 2 sided tape.
Getting the old ones off, a bit tougher. Heat gun and pry them off.

#85 4 years ago
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#86 4 years ago

Looks great so far. While your at it, you may want to consider installing a beefier leg bracket.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-new-style-leg-bracket.html

#87 4 years ago

Power supply cap kit came today.
Big Daddy is my go to for these.

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#88 4 years ago

$15 and 30 minutes of your time well spent.
Original caps are pushing 30 years old, and way past their expected service life.

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#89 4 years ago

Reflow solder at every pin while board is out.

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#90 4 years ago

Can I ask what "Bondo" do you use? I know there are many different types.

My issue(s) are some Bondo is so tough, it sets up quickly and many times it's so much harder than the wood, then it's difficult to get Bondo & wood smooth (inconstant materials).

Any help / advise would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Kerry

#91 4 years ago

It takes time to get a feel for whatever product you are using.
I have found that if you put less hardener, it is easier to work with. And it clogs up sandpaper way less.
Use a random orbit sander, start 80 grit, 120, primer
This is what I use now, because I can sand in 15 minutes. Love that.

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#92 4 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

This is what I use now, because I can sand in 15 minutes. Love that.

Thanks for sharing... Maybe I should experiment with using less hardener too.

#93 4 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

It takes time to get a feel for whatever product you are using.
I have found that if you put less hardener, it is easier to work with. And it clogs up sandpaper way less.
Use a random orbit sander, start 80 grit, 120, primer
This is what I use now, because I can sand in 15 minutes. Love that.[quoted image]

That's ok filler, but I always use Z-Grip,

It's alot easier to work with

#94 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

Looks great so far. While your at it, you may want to consider installing a beefier leg bracket.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-new-style-leg-bracket.html

I was going to say the same. After restoring a few pins, these are a must.

#95 4 years ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I was going to say the same. After restoring a few pins, these are a must.

Not really. The length of thread is the same, and that is what is important. I'm not looking for structural help on the cabinet, I have that taken care of.

#96 4 years ago
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#97 4 years ago

Burnt GI header pins replaced (thx snyper2099).
To show my gratitude, I hammered him on a few games of FG while he was here...that boy will never learn.

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#98 4 years ago

Stripping old pf. Couple items to make reassembly easier.
Mark all harness mount screw holes with a dot. Helps to get harness reoriented on new pf. I leave the mounts on when harness cleaned, so this helps get the whole think close when putting it on the new pf.

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#99 4 years ago

Any oddball shims, hardware, etc, gets ziptied together and location marked (on old pf).

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#100 4 years ago

I leave 1/2" of wire when I clip coil and switch wires, just to make sure correct wires going back in correct spots.

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