(Topic ID: 269589)

Diner Pinball Won’t Boot!

By Pinball-DOOD

3 years ago


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    There are 83 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 3 years ago

    Hey all! I have a Diner that won’t boot at all. I was told that it was working just recently and when the batteries were replaced, it stopped booting. GI are on but no display and no attract mode. We do get a test bong but that’s about it. I reflowed solder on the power supply and CPU headers and then even touched up solder on the ICs. Any idea what could be the culprit? Thanks! One of the pics shows a chip that looks a little toasty, not sure if it would be an issue though

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    #2 3 years ago

    Go directly to the power supply board and measure the DC output voltages.

    #3 3 years ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    Go directly to the power supply board and measure the DC output voltages.

    Will do. What am I looking for here? Haha sorry I’m learning

    #4 3 years ago

    bong sound indicates music board is booting with required 5V 12V and -12V voltages present

    #5 3 years ago
    Quoted from PINTEC:

    bong sound indicates music board is booting with required 5V 12V and -12V voltages present

    Ah, good point. Anywhere I should check first?

    #6 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    Anywhere I should check first?

    Check these 3 test points.

    22 (resized).PNG22 (resized).PNG
    #7 3 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Check these 3 test points.
    [quoted image]

    One lead on the ground braid, and one on the TP, right? on Diode test? And what measurements should I be getting? Thanks!

    #8 3 years ago

    Set meter for DC voltage. Black to ground braid, red to test points.

    #9 3 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Set meter for DC voltage. Black to ground braid, red to test points.

    Gotcha, Am I checking for a beep?

    #10 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    Am I checking for a beep?

    Nope, tell us what the meter reading is.

    #11 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    checking for a beep

    in DC voltage mode -- there's no beeping =)

    Check page 84 of your manual to see the voltages on the schematics for the power supply board.

    To get ideas on what to check in what order -- study this:

    http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index2.htm

    Also - you can search for "test points" to quickly see what values to test for.

    #12 3 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Nope, tell us what the meter reading is.

    Will do

    #13 3 years ago

    I will conduct measures at the test points and get back to you all!

    #14 3 years ago

    Just to clarify, do I obtain these measures with the game powered on or off??

    #15 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    do I obtain these measures with the game powered on or off??

    It would be hard to measure power with the power turned off.

    #16 3 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    It would be hard to measure power with the power turned off.

    Hahah, just want to make sure

    #17 3 years ago

    When testing resistance/continuity/beep, the game would be off. Voltage measurements are always with the game on.

    #18 3 years ago

    Got the test point readings!

    TP 1: 05.1 (normal)
    TP 3: 11.7 (normal)
    TP 4: -14.7 (incorrect)

    I think TP4 is the issue! Could it be that bridge rectifier 1 is the issue since it’s in TP4’s circuit?

    #19 3 years ago

    TP -4 is fine.

    Now find the 5 volt and ground TPs on the cpu board. Measure these with the volt meter.

    #20 3 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    TP -4 is fine.
    Now find the 5 volt and ground TPs on the cpu board. Measure these with the volt meter.

    Okay gotcha. I hate to be trouble but could you maybe explain how I’d do this? This is something new for me!

    #21 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    maybe explain how I’d do this?

    Turn on game. Put meter on DC volts setting. Put red lead the CPU 5 volt test point. Put black lead on the CPU ground test point. Let me know what you read.

    #22 3 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Turn on game. Put meter on DC volts setting. Put red lead the CPU 5 volt test point. Put black lead on the CPU ground test point. Let me know what you read.

    Okay, thanks! Is the tp2 a ground?

    #23 3 years ago

    Left is the 5 volt test point and right is the ground test point.

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    #24 3 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Left is the 5 volt test point and right is the ground test point.
    [quoted image]

    Huge help! Thanks

    #25 3 years ago

    Just out of curiosity, what would you guess could be the issue at this point? Have we omitted the Power Supply from being the issue? Thanks!

    #26 3 years ago

    You are needing to determine if the power supply 5v output is getting to the cpu board test point.

    What you read will tell about the condition of the wires and connectors between the power supply board and the cpu board.

    #27 3 years ago
    Quoted from keith20mm:

    You are needing to determine if the power supply 5v output is getting to the cpu board test point.
    What you read will tell about the condition of the wires and connectors between the power supply board and the cpu board.

    Thanks!

    #28 3 years ago

    Did you check for any loose or accidentally unplugged cables?
    Bad or loose fuse?

    Just maybe its something simple?

    #29 3 years ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Did you check for any loose or accidentally unplugged cables?
    Bad or loose fuse?
    Just maybe its something simple?

    Oh my god, it could totally be a fuse. The owner of the game said he checked fuses but I never actually checked myself haha

    #30 3 years ago

    Then again, I think it’s something else. I checked all connectors and even reflowed solder

    #31 3 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    TP -4 is fine.
    Now find the 5 volt and ground TPs on the cpu board. Measure these with the volt meter.

    I seriously don't know how you can tell any of these boards will have bad solder not even knowing what board is at fault.

    I have never seen any bad solder on any system 11 games in my 11 years, unless someone did a bad repair job.

    So here we wait for your answer to Grumpy's post.

    #32 3 years ago

    Once you establish 5v is at least 4.8v on the CPU board, please report what is the state of the blanking and diagnostic LEDs on the CPU board.

    #33 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    Once you establish 5v is at least 4.8v on the CPU board, please report what is the state of the blanking and diagnostic LEDs on the CPU board.

    Okay will do.

    #34 3 years ago

    I haven’t been able to get out there to take the measurement yet but, I have an account of the led flash sequences. Upon initial start up, the left most LED stays on, the middle LED blinks 5 times, and the far right LED blinks 10 times.

    #35 3 years ago

    You still need to measure the 5v on the MPU. If it is good, sounds like there is a bad part on the board. What all work was done to the MPU? Just wondering to see if it can be potentially related the error codes you are currently seeing.

    #36 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    You still need to measure the 5v on the MPU. If it is good, sounds like there is a bad part on the board. What all work was done to the MPU? Just wondering to see if it can be potentially related the error codes you are currently seeing.

    Gotcha. Upon removing the MPU, it appears everything was in tact and untouched. Traces were perfect and no hack work was done. I’m wondering if there is a bad component somewhere (if it isn’t a wiring issue)

    #37 3 years ago

    Before I go out to measure, is there anything I should look for if I can confirm there is proper voltage? I just want to minimize the number of times I have to go out there

    #38 3 years ago

    Just the 5v on the MPU as Grumpy mentioned. If is above 4.8v, better consider sending it to ChrisHibler for repair. MPU bootup issues are too complicated to direct anyone to a part to replace. He can install NVRAM at the same time.

    #39 3 years ago

    Well sir. Good advice provided in this thread.

    Let’s hear about that 5V on the MPU.
    Happy to help.

    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

    #40 3 years ago
    Quoted from ChrisHibler:

    Well sir. Good advice provided in this thread.
    Let’s hear about that 5V on the MPU.
    Happy to help.

    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

    I will report back to you sometime tomorrow regarding the 5 Volts. Thanks!

    #41 3 years ago

    Looks like we have 5v on the CPU! So I guess we are looking at a bad component on the board. I will give ChrisHibler ’s number to him! Thanks!

    1 week later
    #42 3 years ago

    Looks like he is not down to send them in! Is it possible you all could walk me through where to start? Maybe common culprits on the board? I feel confident in fixing it, just need some guidance on this era system 11

    #43 3 years ago

    There could be several reasons for the failure.
    My advice again is to send it to a competent repairman.
    If he buggers up the board in an attempt to repair it, it will make the actual repair that much tougher.

    What competent repairmen hate to hear, "I'm going to try it myself. If I mess it up, I'll send it to you". Argh.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    #44 3 years ago

    I recommended sending them in! But he is still on the fence. We found that the F3 fuse keeps constantly blowing. What could this be?

    #45 3 years ago

    It only blows when a connector is plugged in!

    #46 3 years ago

    Unplugging J2 allows the game to boot! No display

    #47 3 years ago

    F3 on which board? power or aux power?

    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    What could this be?

    Search "site:pinside.com" + "system 11C" + "F3" or "site:pinside.com" + "Diner + F3" to get a sense of the range of ideas on what to check.

    also, you can substitute Diner with other 11c's

    #48 3 years ago

    Progress! Looks like you may have things isolated to the master display board.

    https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/d/d2/D-12232.jpg
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-11c-display-issue-single-digit-broken

    shot in the dark:
    With the power off -- check for a short on U19 UDN7180

    #49 3 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Progress! Looks like you may have things isolated to the master display board.
    https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:WMS-D-12502-1.jpg
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-11c-display-issue-single-digit-broken
    shot in the dark:
    With the power off -- check for a short on U19 UDN7180

    Sounds good! Since I don’t have the schematics in front of me, what is U19?

    #50 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    I don’t have the schematics in front of me

    get them in front of you.
    https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=681
    -mof

    There are 83 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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