Finishing up a Diner project and now I have some issues getting it running. Any help on which issue to tackle first would be appreciated. Fist off, no display. This was an ussue when I picked it up but when I put the display into cyclone, it worked with odd characters on display. I was hoping it was the c1 and c3 caps on the power board but I just changed those. This had the display cable backwards on one comnector when I got it and I duplicated it, following pics but have since corrected it.
Next are shorts in the system. The 8amp fuse pn the side of the head glows on startup and will eventually blow. Also f4 and f5 blow. I can get a game to start and the audio is working. It kicks out 2 balls on game start however.
Just not sure where to start exactly. Should I get displays working, and where do I start there? Or do I need to fix the shorts firts?
Any advice is appreciated!

Also I believe I heard the knocker or another coil fire on first start. I am going to all board work, if necessary on my own, regardless of what needs fixed. Getting better at soldering on the board and feeling confident enough to tackle ic's or whatever. Well, we will see anyway.

Oddly enough, when I put this power supply into my pool sharks, that display no longer works. But the pool sharks power supply does not give Diner any display.

Hmmm, I should have thought of this. I'll check when I get home today.

Ok, so the cable was bad. Somewhere in the switch a fuse blew which explains why the power supply made pool sharks go out. I have displays now but they are flickering and not very readable. Gonna reflow the pins and see if that helps.
Anyone have some help for the shorts in the system?

Just to make sure I am doing this correctly: neg to ground braid:
Pin 1 -96.9v
Pin 3 99.6 v

Reseated cable and still the same. This cable works fine in Cyclone.

The last time it was on it was very faimt and fading. Now that I try to take a video it is totally dark. Fuses still good

It was continually getting worse as time went on over the 5 min it was partially working. Last time before I tried to record? The 00 was very light and then nothing after that.

Maybe I bought the wrong capacitor? 150mf 160v

What do you mean acting up? It is still not working. The votages are still the same though.

Yeah, its totally out now. Cannot get anything.

Ok, so I put in pool sharks ps with the good cable and displays are crisp and bright.

Ok, gotcha.

R1 measures about 43 kohm
R3 315 kohm. I just noticed the capacitor next to it was bent down and looked like it was touching the lead at r3.

Oops
R4 shows ol in one direction but .5 M ohms in the other?

Ok. I will look at sourcing those components. At least I can use the working ps to figure out why I am blowing 3 fuses.

So to sum up where I am:
F4 and f5 fuses blow as well as the 8 amp located on the side of the head by itself. Not sure how to isolate where the shorts aŕe.

I actually put a fuse into f4 and its working now. F5 still blows on power up and I did not mess with 8amp on the side. I saw it glow and blow.

Here is the mpu. I need to put good flashers in but the right jet sol 19 did not fire. Once I get bulbs in I will know if any flashers did not fire. Ill report back in a few

20180716_164946 (resized).jpg

It seems that the C side is not working. Also not sure what ac select does in test mode but prob not right.

I do hear it clicking. None of the C side is working and no flippers.
Right pop was just stuck mechanically.

Sorry, the left one is working and the right is not. No test but they work during trst mode. Well the right is not, nor during gameplay.

I read that if f5 blows on power up BR1 is bad. Is that something I should check? I think I need to desolder to check tho.

No worries. I am just glad to have help! This is a full resto that is months in the making so I am very patient and just glad to be at this point. Just seeing it fired up is the best.
Yeah, its on the aux board. I also see that f5 is the right flipper? If so that makes sense. Also the 8 amp on the side that blows is connected to the rectifier thats screwed to the backplate. Not sure if that helps figure this out.

20180716_201023_001 (resized).jpg

Ok, I'll be at it tomorrow. Gotta sleep. So I pull the board, put positive to the negative lead and read the 2 a/c lines. Then neg to pos lead and same thing. I will report the readings after that.

The only thing that may be an issue is the resistence between the two ac lines. Br1 is reading 6 to 7 M ohms. Br2 reads about 17. Br1 from pool sharks reads 30 between the ac lines and br2 reads about 12. Would this also account for the 8 amp slo-blo on the side of the head blowing? Once again, thank you for your help.

Found a problem. I put pool sharks aux board in and fired it up with all fuses. J7 on the interconnect was smoking. Several pins were shorted to each other. Even after removing and cleaning there were shorted. Was very strange but some debris was between pins and was not visible. After scraping between them it went away. Waiting for the board to dry a little then I will see where I am at.

Ok, back together and now the f5 fuse blows as soon as I hit the right flipper. Everything else seems ok.

Flipper coil showing shorted, took out the diodes and it reads:
4.8 ohms to first lug
164.7 to second lug
Not sure if this is shorted.

Put 2 new diodes and it blew as soon as the flipper was pressed.

Very strange but it reads shorted after blowing the fuse. Cut the diodes off and it read 4.9 and 164. Something fried the new diode. 1n4004