(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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  • 2,027 posts
  • 230 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Sonic
  • Topic is favorited by 83 Pinsiders

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#608 5 years ago

First time I saw the Diner club. Didn't realize we had one.

#612 5 years ago

And the usual battery damage on the cpu. Open the coin door and test all the solenoids and flashers too.

1 week later
#619 5 years ago

I got my Diner way back on march 11th of this year and immediately tore it apart. Did a full resto and some bugs haunted me for months but I finally am able to enjoy my Diner!!!

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#622 5 years ago

Oh My Gosh, there is nothing like playing a game you put so much time and efforrt into! I love this Diner! All the blood sweat and tears were worth it.

#623 5 years ago

I mean it's not perfect but man what a good time!

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1 week later
#626 5 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Dang, that's a *very* clean playfield. No wear around the inserts...really nice. Keep that game waxed! Maybe shoot another clear layer at some point to preserve it.

Thanks. It has about 10 coats of clear on it now. Was a very fun project.

#628 5 years ago

Mine had mylar down, but the inserts raised and the edges were worn. Some other spots were worn around the top but I repaired and touched it all up. I logged what I could here on pinside. I filled in gaps with clear then did the touchup. I also covered the inserts with intercoat clear before the 2 part clear. I wanted to avoid the insert issue with sys 11's.

#632 5 years ago

I think they will continue to move unless you glue them in. Just a thought; what if you tap slightly farther out, then put glue on the backside and tapped back down? I think just glueing the back side would not be permanent enough.

#633 5 years ago

Does anyone have their lift ramp fire 2 or 3 times before it stays up? At first it wouldn't stay but I bent the bracket that catches. A little more and it seems to bind though.

#638 5 years ago
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:

I have a Diamondplate Pf with some 'insert opportunities'. Do I spend the money on having it restored/reworked, or do I wait and buy a CPR pf?
Technically if I go the latter, I will not have an early production game, but rather a game with a 'repro pf' and a yellow wireform. No way to differentiate from a early production vs a later production with a yellowed ramp....

I completely enjoy restoring my playfileds but it takes a lot of time to make it look good. If you have the patiance and enjoy it, go for it. Mine was completely destroyed and I am very happy with the final product.

1 week later
#641 5 years ago

Did you know that if you end a game with a ball locked, you can start a new game before the match sequence ends and you get to keep the lock? Kinda cheap, but just did it accidently.

#645 5 years ago

I own both but have yet to play my pinbot. Still fixing it up. I love Diner, but I have spent my entire career in foodservice, so the theme works for me. Pinbot is a popular title and not sure Diner is worth 450 more, but that is just me. Condition of each would help make that call.

#646 5 years ago

According to pinside value the deal makes sense. I don't give a lot of weight to that though, but most people do.

#650 5 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

I own both as well.
Diner is more rare, hard to find in some places and in good condition, it will fetch more money I think. Diner will become more collectable as some people love sys11.
As for gameplay. Pinbot is a far more difficult and punishing game. It's a more mature theme as well.
Diner is more family oriented and games last generally longer, at least for me. Rules are simpler I think. I like Pinbot road to multi-ball better than Diner which is hard to finish (spinner shot if tough in mine). Diner is a very pretty game. Diner music is great as well.
I owned both Diner and Taxi and I sold Taxi. I liked Diner better of the two in terms of gameplay. Taxi's music and callouts are tough to beat though.

Pinbot is sys 11

1 month later
#671 5 years ago

Check out some of the ones at pinbal rebel. I think it's pinballrebel.com but not 100% sure

#672 5 years ago

Actully a really cool freeplay one for Diner here:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/card/cardd.htm

#684 5 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Man I love digging into this thing as a first time owner....
I made a quick pass with some Turtle wax chrome polish on the playfield and it’s cleaning up well.
Hopefully this weekend I can remove the plastics and give them and the playfield a good cleaning.
I seem to recall a thread where people used 4 blue LED’s for the lampposts on the backglass. Anyone know the color or part number?
I have 3 of these plastic domes that have the sides snapped off. Can anyone direct me to replacements?
[quoted image]

I bought some of these from marco

#686 5 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Do you know what these pieces are called?
Thanks

I made an account and added my games to search easier. You can search Diner and click on the pinball machine and only Diner parts come up. Here is the part I think you need. You can get the dome seperate. Take yours apart to confirm.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8172-13

#687 5 years ago

Also click on the related items tab and the dome should appear there.

#692 5 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Any idea for colors on the following lamps?
#13 - Release
#14 - Rush 1
#15 - Rush 2
#47 - Cup Scores 10x Diner Letter

Any of the controlled lamps, make sure you get non ghosting. It is up to you if you put colors to match inserts or just buy bulk white. I use Comet brand. They have charts to pick your white brightness.

#694 5 years ago

Its a star post. Marco has those too. Those black bases pull out to expose the bulb.

#695 5 years ago

Also your missing base is the larger flasher bulb holder. I could not find those when I wanted one.

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#707 5 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Anyone know what the best way is to access the target decals so I can replace them?
[quoted image]

T nuts are what is on the bottom. Posts svrew into them and sometimes they use loc tite and they break.

#708 5 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

I'm trying to remove the cup and saucer. I understand there is a 90 degree L bracket behind the playfield that keeps this in place.
I tried lifing the entire playfield straight up and lifting it up off the hinges so I could access it, but was not successful.
Can anyone recommend the easiest way to do this?
Thanks.

I would disconnect the wires in the back box and remove the playfield, personally.

#715 5 years ago

Hard to tell what that bracket is, but I do not have one there.

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#721 5 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Anyone here have a really good pic of the area between the lower flippers? im helping a friend to repaint some of the black figures (a dog and some women i think it was) due to being worn away abit and kinda need a pic that shows the white lines in the black figure areas.

Sorry, glass is still on. Do you need better?

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#725 5 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Those are good enough, but i need one of the dog below aswell, if you could. Very much thanks anyway for your work.

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#730 5 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

The ice cream floats on the sides of the flippers have 3 screws/post studs.
Can anyone tell me which one goes in each hole?
[quoted image]

What exactly are you needing? I thought pics, but it is already installed in your pic. I might be able to help.

5 months later
#905 4 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

I've never noticed this before, so I figure I would ask..
For a new game, is the clock supposed to start at 12:00 or 1:00?

Should be 1 for 1 million point dinetime.

1 week later
#909 4 years ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

Who knows parts number for diner flaps?

Flaps?

#911 4 years ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

yep 3 metal flaps on playfield

Can you be specific? I assume this one but where are the other 2? Or do you mean the ramp flaps. Sorry, been a while since I had it opened up.

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#920 4 years ago

I have a back glass on mine, but the resolution is not the best. Also I do not have the numbers on the clock. Does anyone know qho did repros like this?

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#924 4 years ago

Yeah, It's not real nice. A translight might be better.

1 month later
#967 4 years ago

White cup looks good but will make nudging to get 2,500,000+ a bear. Usually 2 little nudges timed perfectly is needed.

#970 4 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Who has much success nudging when in the cup? I never feel like I am affecting anything. What is the best timing? Front to back.

It has to be timed right. Just a front to back nudge like when you push out of the side lanes and if you are gentle enough you will get the tilt warning but it makes a huge difference. My tilt is set to a normal setting, so I am not nudging much, but I can almost always get the 2.5 mil. or more. I would try it not worrying about tilting to get the timing down.

#971 4 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

That's fine with me. I think the cup scores too many points in the game.

I see what you mean, but 2.5 mil on that shot compared to 12mil dinetime seems balanced enough for me. And if you don't hit it right and get the nudge in, 1 mil is even a stretch.

4 months later
#1056 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Bob:

Hi everyone! I have a Diner that I have a question on. The diverter on the right ramp never moves during game play. The coil fires in test mode and will move the diverter one way. What causes the diverter to move back after the coil releases? Is there supposed to be a spring?
Thank you!

The plunger has a spring on it. I bought one from Marco when I restored mine.

1 month later
#1084 4 years ago

Nice! I will be looking for the release of the cup. Restored my Diner, but my cup is yellowed.

7 months later
#1229 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

I have a question about flipper strength on Diner. I'm finding it almost impossible to make it up the right ramp unless I am extremely lucky. The cup shot that is supposed to be one of the most satisfying shot in all of pinball is all but impossible.
My game has brand new everything flipper related including flipper coils... and they both seem to work as they should. They're just not powerful enough in my opinion.
Is there a more power coil that can be used on the flippers that would solve my issue?
THANKS
[quoted image]

Probably needs the EOS adjusted.

#1232 3 years ago
Quoted from Analogkid:

Gameplay question- do all the characters have speech on your machines? On mine Pepe doesn't and Boris and Buck share have the same speech. As far as I know I have the latest ROMs. Any thoughts/insights?

Yes, they all have unique speech callouts. I am not qualified to give you the tech advice for this issue, but I am sure others can. Maybe start a help thread if you need it. My only guess to look at would be checking the ribbon cable first?

4 weeks later
#1244 3 years ago

He made a one-off of this ramp for me. The braket was unique and he used my original. It came out really nice. He must have lost the dimensions from that one.

1 week later
#1248 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

I just put 2 blue coils in my diner and it made the game much more fun to play. Skip the orange and go right to the blue.
No broken plastics or drop targets yet!

Honestly mine plays perfectly fine with stock coils. There is no shot that is not fast and smooth.

1 month later
#1276 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Ok any idea where it goes?

I can check mine tonight if no one answers before that. I know mine had that piece but can't remember where at the moment.

4 weeks later
#1331 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Does anyone else seem to drain when the ball rolls out of the right side of the pop
Bumpers?
Seems to go straight down the middle. So annoying.

Nudge the right side as it comes down that rail and push it to the left flipper.

#1334 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Gotcha.
So this is normal then?

Mine does it if I don't give it a slap at least. That being said, I rarely lose a ball that way because I expect it and stay ready.

#1338 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Thanks guys.
Really liking diner. I’m liking the different paths one can take towards big points.
Wish the spinner shot was easier to hit for multiball instead of having to rely on the Today’s Special hole. I guess that’s my only gripe.
I also like that the ramps aren’t too easy to hit. Need to time the tip of the flipper just right.

Lock a ball and hit the mystery score. It will usually start multiball and then when it kicks it out you already have the first shot towards the rush when it hits the upper hole.

#1339 3 years ago

Also get really good at hitting the left ramp repeatedly and build up the jackpot to 12M before dine time. That will give you a nice score by the end of the game.

3 months later
#1399 3 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Someone was very creative in repairing this lift ramp. Any tips for getting it fixed?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Freeplay40 made me a lift ramp but the way the support bracket is angled where it screws into the playfield made it difficult for him to reproduce. He used my bracket on the repro, but that is why he does not offer it as a regular product. That was a couple years ago though. Not sure where he stands on it now but you may want to ask and see. The repro is very nice and I recommend getting one if he is willing to make another.

1 month later
#1414 2 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, thinking of selling my diner. Thoughts on price...
All new ramps, including cup, shopping with new rubbers and leds. New star posts. Inserts levels. Above average playfield and cab. New flipper mechs.
I have no pics on me, but what are these things going for these days?

I remember the search you had to find a Diner.

#1417 2 years ago

With this market, pick your price and wait for a sucker.

#1420 2 years ago

Mine is fully restored and I wouldn't consider selling for less than 3500.

5 months later
#1523 2 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

anyone interested in trading your nice diner for my nice revenge from mars?..........i want to join the diner group

Sure but you have to drive here to do the exchange.

1 year later
#1774 1 year ago
Quoted from Sethman:

Question for owners:
The lock shot under left ramp. Do you have cases where the shot is not registering for the lock and blows past the saucer?
Since going to a new CPR playfield I'm getting a decent amount of lock shots not stopping and end up back into the lanes up top or pops. Wondering if its because of the new, faster playfield with clear versus the old, slower original playfield which didn't seem to ever have that issue.
Also, right ramp shot into cup. I have new starship ramps and new cup. Rebuilt left flipper has enough strength to make the ramp fine for triggering diverter, but then making the longer / steeper shot into the cup I'm finding the ball doesn't have enough "umph" to make decent revolutions in the cup (yes I have a MRS switch so no resistance of normal switch). And the EOS has been set correctly, the flipper has plenty of power. Anyone else with similar experience?
Thanks.

I have an original playfield that is clear coated and plays super fast and I never have a shot blow past the lock. Did you forget a piece under there possibly?
As far as the cup, learn to time the nudge, front to back, and you can max the cup value.

#1776 1 year ago
Quoted from Sethman:

For lock shot, there’s not really much to it. There’s an angled bracket with rubber pad directly below the saucer hole, and a 1 way gate leading out back into the lane/pop area.
Only thing I can guess at is the angled bracket/stopper isn’t doing a good enough job.

Yeah, wasn't sure if you possibly left out the bracket. Maybe it's not bent enough or something. Something seems off though.

1 week later
#1800 1 year ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

Thank you. I removed it, but had to snip some wires to do it and am now terrified i wont be able to put them back together. The right flasher (the 89 bulb) lools like just yellow wires on both sides? As if it was a stanard gi? Man, this is a huge ask, but does anyone have pics of the back if this thing? I dont know what wores go where, now.

I have all my resto pics stored somewhere if you get stuck. Should have just about every pic possible.

#1812 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I can't comment on this new switch, but if I'm not mistaken, with the original switch and spinning the cup, it depended on whether it was your first spin of the cup or not as to whether each rotation counted or whether it took two rotations to equal one uptick of the value.
The way mine works, I believe it takes you two rotations to get it up to 2.5 mil and then each single rotation after that counts for 100k. It has to do with the letters in DINER. When you start a ball or game, they are already all lit and the ramp is ready for the first shot to open the diverter and the second shot to go up to the cup. If the letters on the playfield aren't lit, you relight them by right ramp shots, D I N E R with values of 25k, 50k, 75k, 100k and then when they are all lit, the values are 10X, which is where your cup spin points come from.
If you watch the letters on the playfield as you are spinning the cup, you will see them fill in in much the same sequence as when you are relighting the ramp.

That's not how mine works. Every loop counts regardless of how many times it has been hit.

#1822 1 year ago
Quoted from mike200mph:

Anyone Need A new Repro Cup with decal
Still have some left. PM & let me know
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What is the cost on these? I did a full resto on my Diner but my cup is yellowed.

4 weeks later
#1831 1 year ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Well it's time: my 15yo daughter helped begin the teardown and plans to lend assistance through the full playfield swap, hoping to finish in time for Louisville Expo this year.
What are some recommended enhancements for this that we should consider? I see a crystal-clear cup is available but don't want to blow the budget all around, so want to consider all the options first. Was thinking of art blades but I personally don't like the ill-fitting cut-paste clipart on the Pingraffix set. Anyone have photos of mirrors, and where to get them? I seem to recall there were hotdogs or something else available for the switch covers - Anyone know where to get those? Anything else fun available to consider?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Your original PF looks really good. If you want to sell it I would love to have one for a lighted wall art project. Awesome seeing that your daughter is helping you.

#1833 1 year ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Oh I assure you it's beat to hell... we were shocked at how filthy it got on location in the two+ years since I shopped it, and some areas were even furthered down to woodgrain and flaking beyond. The center area is comprised of overlays. But to your point it's not too bad for wall or ceiling art, so if we don't come up with space for same I'll keep you in mind for dibs

Thanks! Mine was completely destroyed but I did a full resto on it. Came out amazing.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diner-restoration#

#1843 1 year ago
Quoted from phs4real:

Check switch operation behind the button. Make sure it's not sticking, it should make a clicking noise, one click per press of the button.

I thought that was a leaf switch?

#1844 1 year ago
Quoted from Mark603:

I am new to the forum and have a tech question. My Diner game has recently defaulted to 4-player mode. It immediately goes to 4-player after turn on and hitting the start button once. The multiple player select worked nomally for years. Any ideas how to troubleshoot this problem?

I would definitely go into switch test mode and see what the start button is doing.

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