(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?


By Pinballgeek

6 years ago



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  • 1,146 posts
  • 158 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by mike200mph
  • Topic is favorited by 60 Pinsiders

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#457 3 years ago

Hey gang, by chance does anyone have a partial insert decal set they want to sell? I actually only need the "TOP 5 WHEN LIT" decal at the top of the shooter lane. I am trying to avoid blowing $50-$60 on the whole insert/overlay set, just for one decal.

7 months later
#493 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

does this thing need something attached to it?

That "thing" doesnt belong there at all, it is not a part of your game, it is a universal "L" bracket found at hardware stores, typically used for building cabinetry... Remove it.

3 months later
#538 2 years ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

Quick update. It is fixed.
My issue was the "today's special" ejector hole and the wire form under the playfield sending the ball to hard and high into the jukebox and preventing the ball from going where it should.
I disassembled and pulled the habitrail out where I could visually inspect it. The crux of the issue was the angle where the wireform meets the playfield. It was too extreme. I gently pried the ends to flatten it out slightly. Maybe 2-3mm. It appears this was planned for as the holes drilled for the posts at the end of the wireform are very large and allow for some tweaking. Once flattened slightly, I reassembled it and have not had a failed eject since. Forgive me, but below is the worst drawing ever trying to show it. Just trying to help someone in the future. I didn't think to snap photos or I would have.

Good job! Way to dig in and troubleshoot properly. Are you by chance missing the clear plastic with the records on it that hangs over the shooter lane near the top? That was intentionally placed there to help deflect "misguided" ejected balls from hitting the jukebox.

IMG_0308.png

3 months later
#561 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Still stumped as to why the ball can go under the left ramp, pause, and then register as a drain. Just went into switch test and clicked that switch ~50 times and it registered as the proper switch each time.

If it's in fact true that all your hardware checks out good, its likely that you have a logic glitch. Most of those issues are resolved with a simple RAM clear... Turn off, unplug, pull batteries, wait 2-3 mins, reinsert batteries, plug in, turn on, re-adjust settings.

3 weeks later
#575 1 year ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

Thanks guys! My first successful solder job! The connector had been torqued and broken the pins free from the solder. Reflowed them and it works perfectly. Cheers!

2 weeks later
#584 1 year ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

I am cleaning up the clock on my machine and I am wondering about the start position and how to adjust it. When I start a new game the hand is at about 1:20, I'm guessing it should be at 1:00? To adjust I see a set screw on holding the clock face to the stepper motor shaft, can anyone advise how to set the position properly or adjust it? I see the flag for the opto but it is fixed in relation to the clock hands so I don't know moving the clock on the shaft will make any difference as I expect it is the opto that sets the position? The notch on the clock face sticker is aligned with the notch on the wheel. Thanks.

Your assumptions are correct. The hand will never hit every hour dead perfect, but if the hand is equally off on each number, the only way to adjust the clock hand to the backglass is to remove, rotate and remount the entire clock assembly on the insert panel. And there is only a very tiny amount of room to move it.

4 months later
#603 1 year ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

I should have flame polished my new cup before installing btw...

Where on earth did you even find a new cup??

2 months later
#667 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Does anyone know where to get the patron insert replacements?
[quoted image]

If anyone needs, I have a new set (characters and D I N E R inserts) that I will sell you for cheap.

1 week later
#712 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

I’m in the process of replacing the LED’s
Are the black slots on the back box to be filled with 13V flasher LED’s?
Also, the top row on the pcb on the back box (that lights the customers) only takes 13v?

The top 3 are flashers, the bottom 3 are GI (555's).

1 month later
#740 1 year ago
Quoted from cadmium:

Hello fellow Diner owners. I've been doing a lot of 3D design and printing at my local library. After having some luck designing dalek pinball posts for Dr. Who I wanted to freshen up my Diner. The existing plastic switch covers for the ramps are big and boring. I hope y'all like these updated ones.

Very creative!!

2 months later
#789 11 months ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Anyone know if these playfield light boards are readily available?
I couldn’t find them on Marcos site.
Thanks

Nope, Nobody has ever had them as new replacements. Now and then you'll find some on ebay from someone parting a game.
Usually you just replace it with a 44 socket/bulb.

#823 11 months ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

After soldering the pins on the relay board, the lights are on, but so dim they may as well be off.
Would dimly lit lights be indicative of a broken wire?

There's a molex connector with the 4 yellow GI wires, coming off the power transformer... make sure that connector is clean and tightly connected. A loose or poor connection there can cause dim lights on one or more of the GI circuits. I had this exact issue with my Whirlwind, and that was the problem.

3 months later
#960 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

No one has a scan of the clock hand?
PM me if you do.

Just pull the image from Marco and print it on an white inkjet full-page decal... Piece of cake! The trick will be to orient it correctly.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1559-571-2

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